Ask the experts

[SchralphMacchio]

I’ve been using Real World Cycling 30mm BB with angular contact bearings to good results.

[jm2e]

Or should I just try harder to find Shimano cranks I like so I can keep using $25 BBs?

Yes


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[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Ugh, so I have never had new cable/housing/chain make shifting WORSE. Shifting into bigger cogs is almost normal and can be tuned with barrel adjustments......shifting down to smaller cogs is all fucked up. Sometimes you dump 3 or 4 gears and the chain goes nowhere at all. Then the shifter feels like it's not even connected to anything when you try to shift back the other way. My memory is fuzzy, but I think I had this happen before when the spring/internals went bad on a 12spd XT shifter before?

[D(C)]

Ugh, so I have never had new cable/housing/chain make shifting WORSE. Shifting into bigger cogs is almost normal and can be tuned with barrel adjustments......shifting down to smaller cogs is all fucked up. Sometimes you dump 3 or 4 gears and the chain goes nowhere at all. Then the shifter feels like it's not even connected to anything when you try to shift back the other way. My memory is fuzzy, but I think I had this happen before when the spring/internals went bad on a 12spd XT shifter before?

Could the housing be crushed where it was cut, causing friction?

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Could the housing be crushed where it was cut, causing friction?

I always make sure to run a safety pin through at any cut points to be sure the ends aren't crimped. I went as far as to open up the clutch on the mech and it's clean and moving smoothly. I then backed down the tension quite a bit. It shifts slightly better and the thumb pressure needed to shift is improved, but it still shifting kinda weird.

Tripled checked the B-screw etc etc. Cassette looks fine. Reach mech isn't lose. Rear axle tight etc.

Visually the der hanger looks fine. I'm thinking the mech/cage is bent somewhere and I can't see it. There are some battle scars on it from rocks.

[Dee Hubbs]

I always make sure to run a safety pin through at any cut points to be sure the ends aren't crimped. I went as far as to open up the clutch on the mech and it's clean and moving smoothly. I then backed down the tension quite a bit. It shifts slightly better and the thumb pressure needed to shift is improved, but it still shifting kinda weird.

Tripled checked the B-screw etc etc. Cassette looks fine. Reach mech isn't lose. Rear axle tight etc.

Visually the der hanger looks fine. I'm thinking the mech/cage is bent somewhere and I can't see it. There are some battle scars on it from rocks.

Derailleur to hanger bolt over torqued? Resulting in the derailleur not able to move freely. Try backing it off 1//8th of a turn if its really tight.

[EWG]

New (used) bike for my lovely wife. I'll have to post in the new gear thread. 2022 new frame (same as the Santa Cruz 5010) that was a warranty replacement for a 2020 frame that had paint peel. I assume they reused all the old bushings and bearings when they rebuilt the bike with the new frame.

Small amount of vertical slop in the rear end. Isolated it (I think) to the front shock bolt. It's moving a little. Worn bushings, right? Bushing might be two years old. Or maybe they screwed something up on reassembly? Or did they lose a washer? Or something else? Or am I an idiot and the bushings are adjustable?

maybe I should disassemble and reassemble. But if it's definitely a bushing I'll just go buy one first.

[Spencer123]

Cane Creek 40 headset: the preload bolt is plenty tight with no play and the fork is sucked up nicely to the bottom bearing. The whole thing went on smoothly (nothing felt like it needed forced).

This little gap is totally uniform around the headset/frame interface with the blue. Bars turns smoothly. Is this normal or is the little ring on the top part of the headet not sitting in right and the gap it abnormally large? Hightower 3 with intergrated headset.

Thanks!

[EWG]

Gap doesn’t look right. Bearings are oriented the right way (ie not upside down)? Typically the problem is on whatever side the gap is on. In other words, the issue is likely to be above the head tube, not below. It looks like the bearing race isn’t sitting correctly in either the top or bottom cup. Hence the upside down question.

[Spencer123]

Thanks for the quick reply. We pulled the fork and checked the bearings (both bottom and top).

The bottom one has the tapered side up into the frame and the flatter side seats perfectly with the crown race.

On the top: We checked the bearing both ways, again the somewhat angular side seems to fit perfectly into the intergrated cups (photo of the bearing sitting flush into the frame).

The headset topcap and compression ring then attach cleanly to the bearing and spin smoothly.

Its almost as if the intergrated cups are just a hair high and its a thick bearing? Stock cane creek 40.

Any chance this is correct and its a little wierd on this bike or worthy of a trip to the bike shop?

Thanks!

[Andeh]

The Chris King headset on my Nomad sticks up a little bit also, but the top cap hangs down around it and almost touches the frame.

[Spencer123]

For anyones future reference: For intergrated headsets since they don't have the exta bottom ring some gap is normal. But if you remove the compression ring from the headset top cap there is a small spacer that can be removed to make it much narrower and look normal. Thanks all for the help!

[smmokan]

WRG- make sure the cable cover bolts on your GG aren’t over tightened… that caused a lot of the shifting issues for me when I had GG demos. I also found that the cable housing could pinch a bit between the BB area and the rear triangle, although that only happened a couple times.

[g_man80]

WRG, if it shifts fine with the clutch off, as you mentioned in an earlier post, I’d start there. Service the clutch and back the adjust screw way out. Slowly tighten it up to see when shifting degrades. Or pick up a new cheap deore or slx derailleur to test and keep as a spare/backup. The SLX is nearly identical anyway (just swap the bearing pulley wheels from the XT).

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

WRG- make sure the cable cover bolts on your GG aren’t over tightened… that caused a lot of the shifting issues for me when I had GG demos. I also found that the cable housing could pinch a bit between the BB area and the rear triangle, although that only happened a couple times.

Ohhhhh, good call. That may totally explain it because taking off the cover and running new housing etc etc.

[406]

More lube? Use a different lube?

Tried a new lube and really dumped it on night before, wiped it this morning and no issues on 32 mile ride today with dozen creek crossings. Thanks for idea, maybe chain came with something on it that didn't work with rock-'n'-roll.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Hopefully gonna have a new fork here soon......then more compliant wheels at some point. Bike still feels a little wild on chunder, but its rideable and still fucking fun.

Any Push owners......is this play/clicking noise normal?

[John_B]

I just tried adjusting my brake levers flatter which I think I like but now my shifter is in a funky place. Is there a part I can order for my XT brakes to increase the range of adjustment range for where I can adjust my shifter to? It looks like the XTR brakes have a greater range and it'd be nice to have something a bit closer to that. If not then what kind of bar clamp do I need for my shifter?

[climberevan]

Problem Solvers has an I-spec clamp that will separate the shifter and brake lever, but it costs almost as much as a shifter, so maybe just buy a clamp mounted one and have a spare.

[climberevan]

SRAM Transmission question for those who've fondled it. Will the left side XO crankarm with spindle mount to a right side older SRAM DUB arm? It certainly looks like it will, though some BB spacers might be required bc the spindle looks longer.

They sell the left power meter arm for less than $350, so mounting that to Ms CE's existing X1 right arm will get her power without losing her preferred 28T ring and saves a bit of coin.

[joetron]

It’s DUB interface, but the T-Type cranks spindles are longer than normal 12sp Eagle cranks to enable that shitty 55mm chain line. You’d have to use the DUB wide BB spacer- I can’t remember if it’s 7.5 or 11.5mm.
So yes, but Q factor would get wider and chain line would get worse - unless she’s riding a SuperBoost bike.


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[Roxtar]

WRG, based on your posts over the past month, I think your bike hates you.

[Dee Hubbs]

It’s DUB interface, but the T-Type cranks spindles are longer than normal 12sp Eagle cranks to enable that shitty 55mm chain line. You’d have to use the DUB wide BB spacer- I can’t remember if it’s 7.5 or 11.5mm.
So yes, but Q factor would get wider and chain line would get worse - unless she’s riding a SuperBoost bike.

Or you could put a 6mm offset chainring on to the cranks. Bringing your chainline back closer to 52mm.

I have a 170 XO Transmission Left side Non Power meter arm/spindle if you want to mess around with it, to see if it fits.

[Powder Ho]

Anyone use egg beaters on their road bike? There is just enough of a difference in the cleat position on my road/mountain bikes to be annoying. Plus I like my mtb shoes better than my road shoes.

[mcski]

A buddy of mine uses them for both his road and mtb quivers.