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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #10576
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Mt. Baker
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Shifts across the range weird, not just in one part of the range. The fact that is takes so much thumb force to shift maybe I did somehow botch the new cable and housing? I've tried fiddling with the cable tension and it's almost like adjusting at the mech and/or doing barrel adjustments really doesn't do much.

    I guess I'll just try new cable/housing and UDH.

    My bikes are never wall hanger dentist specials. I never heli tape them. They get fucking beat to shit......but I like em to actually shift.
    Sounds like the housing is bad or it’s pinched somewhere

  2. #10577
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    38 grip 2 tuning... going on 3rd season with this fork. The first year I ran it way to stiff and it beat me up. Last year was pretty good but I want to do some more tinkering to see if I can really get it dialed.

    I'm probably about 155lbs fully kitted.

    2022 settings:
    PSI: 80
    LSR: 5
    HSR: 4
    LSC: 9
    HSC: 7
    Volume spacers: 1

    My plan is to keep the PSI the same, remove the last volume spacer, keep HSC fully open (for some reason my fork only has 7 clicks), open on LSC a bit, keep LSR the same, and open up HSR a bit.

    This is where I'll start:
    PSI: 80
    LSR: 5
    HSR: 6
    LSC: 12
    HSC: 7
    VS: 0

    Does anybody see any red flags here?

  3. #10578
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Shifts across the range weird, not just in one part of the range. The fact that is takes so much thumb force to shift maybe I did somehow botch the new cable and housing? I've tried fiddling with the cable tension and it's almost like adjusting at the mech and/or doing barrel adjustments really doesn't do much.

    I guess I'll just try new cable/housing and UDH.

    My bikes are never wall hanger dentist specials. I never heli tape them. They get fucking beat to shit......but I like em to actually shift.
    Post a picture of your derailleur. You say it has battle scratches? Given all the shit you’ve checked and gone through and it’s still behaving weird, I’d replace that thing if there are good sized scrapes on the outside of the parallelogram
    Didn’t you just do cable and housing? Is your hanger aligned?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  4. #10579
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,641
    Yes you can put a metal jar lid in the microwave. It needs sharp edges to spark and heat up. Flat aluminum foil is fine. Crinkled aluminum foil will be a show. My microwave comes with a metal rack.

  5. #10580
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    Yes you can put a metal jar lid in the microwave. It needs sharp edges to spark and heat up. Flat aluminum foil is fine. Crinkled aluminum foil will be a show. My microwave comes with a metal rack.
    Didn’t believe you, but I guess we have microwave experts here too:


    https://www.lakeland.co.uk/inspirati...rite%20dishes.


    Stay safe with metal
    Yes, metal is safe to be used in the microwave(hallelujah!) and can massively improve our microwaving experience, but that doesn’t mean we can start chucking all our metal utensils in willy-nilly.
    The main concern people have when using metal in the microwave is sparks, so the question is, what causes sparks to fly in the microwave? The answer is shape. Thin and jagged edges can cause a build-up of electromagnetic energy, causing sparks and, in severe cases, fire. This can easily be avoided by only using smooth tin foil, as wrinkled foil has those pesky jagged edges, which is why you can safely use a spoon in the microwave, but not a fork.
    Flat and thick sheets of metal, like the silicone-edged plates in the Lékué grill, are safe too, as they don’t create a build-up of electromagnetic energy.

  6. #10581
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
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    10,312
    WRG, my Gnarvana doesn’t shift right, never has. Goes away when I put on the Smash stays. Lent the Gnarvana stays to a buddy and he had the same issue. The hanger is straight. Not sure what the deal is. I can get it close enough that it doesn’t really bother me.


    Just a thought.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  7. #10582
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    base of the Bush
    Posts
    15,179
    I have a list of people who should stay on the MTBR Forums, mindless arguing is the norm or was when I used to read the forums in the 90s

  8. #10583
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
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    Wow, my pre-conceived microwave notions have just been shattered. That's good, practical info, thanks.
    (Full disclosure: I still won't on purpose )
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  9. #10584
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    Quote Originally Posted by east or bust View Post
    38 grip 2 tuning... going on 3rd season with this fork. The first year I ran it way to stiff and it beat me up. Last year was pretty good but I want to do some more tinkering to see if I can really get it dialed.

    I'm probably about 155lbs fully kitted.

    2022 settings:
    PSI: 80
    LSR: 5
    HSR: 4
    LSC: 9
    HSC: 7
    Volume spacers: 1

    My plan is to keep the PSI the same, remove the last volume spacer, keep HSC fully open (for some reason my fork only has 7 clicks), open on LSC a bit, keep LSR the same, and open up HSR a bit.

    This is where I'll start:
    PSI: 80
    LSR: 5
    HSR: 6
    LSC: 12
    HSC: 7
    VS: 0

    Does anybody see any red flags here?
    These are clicks from closed?
    I might try closing down LSR some more. Go 2 or 3 clicks from closed. Thats a lot of spring energy to control deep in the travel. If it’s returning fast you’re gonna feel it.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  10. #10585
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    1,299
    Quote Originally Posted by Powder Ho View Post
    Anyone use egg beaters on their road bike? There is just enough of a difference in the cleat position on my road/mountain bikes to be annoying. Plus I like my mtb shoes better than my road shoes.
    I have Crankbrothers Candy 1 on the road bike. Flat pedals on mnt.

  11. #10586
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    33,689
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    It probably takes me an extra 3 minutes each time I lube my chain vs. using a drip lube. Except I’m doing it less often, I virtually never clean my chain (but when I do, it’s way, way quicker and easier), and my drivetrains are lasting forever.

    (And let’s be honest, I’d be wasting time posting on here regardless.)
    yabut you said taking a chain off dipping it in wax and putting it back on the bike is faster than not taking the chain off to do the hot wax and then putting the chain back on the bike

    so now you say that was hyperbole ( AKA lying ) and you now wish to change your original statement,

    becuz now it takes an extra 3 minutes

    which probably mean an extra 20minutes
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  12. #10587
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Missoula
    Posts
    2,179
    Yeah kinda takes me most of a day to wax a chain

    fire up crock pot

    wander off for awhile

    wipe off, remove, clean off chain

    hang to dry

    go do something else

    put chain in crock pot at some point

    wander off

    hang up chain to dry

    finally reinstall chain hours later

    which reminds me that i need to re-wax like 2-3 chains at some point soon.

  13. #10588
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    Jun 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamal View Post
    Yeah kinda takes me most of a day to wax a chain

    fire up crock pot

    wander off for awhile

    wipe off, remove, clean off chain

    hang to dry

    go do something else

    put chain in crock pot at some point

    wander off

    hang up chain to dry

    finally reinstall chain hours later

    which reminds me that i need to re-wax like 2-3 chains at some point soon.
    Waxing chains presents exciting multi-tasking opportunities!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  14. #10589
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    Nov 2005
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    “I can’t go out with you tonight, John, I have to wash my hair. Sorry!”
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  15. #10590
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    7,673
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    yabut you said taking a chain off dipping it in wax and putting it back on the bike is faster than not taking the chain off to do the hot wax and then putting the chain back on the bike

    so now you say that was hyperbole ( AKA lying ) and you now wish to change your original statement,

    becuz now it takes an extra 3 minutes

    which probably mean an extra 20minutes
    I’m pretty confident I didn’t straight up lie anywhere, and don’t believe I’ve even used hyperbole.

    I find it amusing that the people who haven’t tried hot waxing are very adamant that it must take boatloads of effort, while everyone who’s actually tried it is like ‘yeah, it’s pretty simple’, but you assume we’re just lying. Like, it really is quite simple, and it really does only take a few minutes of active time to do each time.

    Regarding overall time savings:

    For any given time I go to wax my chain, I’m probably spending about 3 more minutes actively doing something vs. if I just dripped on some lube instead.

    But, I don’t need to wax my chain as often as I’d need to drip on lube to keep it running with low wear, so that’s some time savings.

    And I barely ever need to clean the chain to keep it free of contamination, so that’s some time savings.

    And if I do need to clean the chain (only after riding in the wet, which is rare for me) I just swish it around in hot water for 90 seconds total, which is much quicker than any other cleaning method, so that’s some time savings.

    Added up, it’s less time overall to keep the chain running in an efficient/low wear condition vs. drip lube, for my riding, in my conditions.

    And just for some context, I’m not a guy who keeps his bike spotless or anything. I’ve literally never washed my current mountain bike in the three years I’ve had it. But I will put in the effort to make sure I’m not replacing chains and cassettes unnecessarily.

    If all you ever do is drip on some lube and never clean your chain it will absolutely be less time consuming. But the lifespan of your chain and cassette will also decrease drastically - not just a few percent. It can easily be only a small fraction of the lifespan compared to a hot waxed chain.

  16. #10591
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    Jun 2020
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    Everyone here is aware chains have quick links, right?

  17. #10592
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Walpole NH
    Posts
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    Dick Punch
    crab in my shoe mouth

  18. #10593
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    May 2007
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    Mt. Baker
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    The quickest and best way I’ve found to clean a chain, cassette and sprockets is to just dump it all in an ultrasonic cleaner with some Dawn professional soap and water. 15-30 minutes later it will all look like new

    I’m not a fan of the chain wax dip at all. Tried it and will never do it again. Imop there is way better lube options but I don’t give a rats ass to go down that rabbit hole.

  19. #10594
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    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
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    How big is that ultrasonic Gunder? 6L? I was actually just thinking about getting one yesterday. I know you can get away with like a 0.5L one for just a chain, but I figured why not get something big enough to clean a cassette too?

  20. #10595
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    Jun 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
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    The quickest and best way I’ve found to clean a chain, cassette and sprockets is to just dump it all in an ultrasonic cleaner with some Dawn professional soap and water. 15-30 minutes later it will all look like new

    I’m not a fan of the chain wax dip at all. Tried it and will never do it again. Imop there is way better lube options but I don’t give a rats ass to go down that rabbit hole.
    You use Boeshield, right?

    What dip wax formula did you try?

  21. #10596
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Livingston, MT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
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    The quickest and best way I’ve found to clean a chain, cassette and sprockets is to just dump it all in an ultrasonic cleaner with some Dawn professional soap and water. 15-30 minutes later it will all look like new

    I’m not a fan of the chain wax dip at all. Tried it and will never do it again. Imop there is way better lube options but I don’t give a rats ass to go down that rabbit hole.
    Fucking Gunder blowing this chain cleaning talk out of the water with a pic of his ultrasonic cleaner!!🤣 love it!!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  22. #10597
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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  23. #10598
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    You use Boeshield, right?

    What dip wax formula did you try?
    I do use Boeshield. Buy it by the gallon as I also use it a lot with my machine tools.

    I tested the Wend wax system. It was horrible. I like a thin liquid lube that will actually penetrate between the rollers and the pins they dries like a wax and that’s Boesheild for me.

  24. #10599
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    How big is that ultrasonic Gunder? 6L? I was actually just thinking about getting one yesterday. I know you can get away with like a 0.5L one for just a chain, but I figured why not get something big enough to clean a cassette too?
    Don’t remember. I got this one at Grizzly industrial. They are all Chinese units and a bunch of companies sell the exact same unit with different rebranding. Just make sure you get a square unit that’s actually big enough to fit the entire cassette. Otherwise you will warp the cassette if you try it only partially submerged…thsts a mistake with an xx1 cassette you will only do once.

  25. #10600
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    Aug 2013
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    Gunder, how much did that bad boy cost if you don't mind me asking?

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