Backcountry Approach Bike Thread

[1000-oaks]

Couldn't find an existing thread, so here's one where folks can post recommendations for what works. It's Summer, time to build.


Last rig:
Old road bike found in a dumpster.

Pros: cheap (though not cheap enough after replacing dry rotted tires/tubes and rusted chain), no worries about it being stolen

Cons: too big for my height, geared too tall for mountain roads, hated carrying everything on back (pushed steep sections with pack on handlebar), crosswinds with skis on pack isn't fun on downhill, can't ride singletrack or rough dirt roads.



Current rig:
$25 Diamondback city/mtn hardtail from Craigslist, with a cheap 36v/300W front hub motor kit and rear cargo rack, towing a Craigslist baby trailer turned into a flatbed with a 3/16" sheet of plywood and the sides half-folded down. Skis attach to trailer with Voile straps, and gear covered with a motorcycle cargo net.

Pros: Great bang for the buck, rolls like the wind (14ah eBay battery lasts about 1,800 ft vert), nothing carried on back (awesome), no issues with crosswind, motor assist is a game changer, can carry LOTS of gear (say you want to camp for the weekend)

Cons: narrow stock tires and continuous center tread not good off pavement, direct-drive 300w front hub motor has plenty of speed on flats but barely enough torque for steep grades, dual small-wheel trailer means no singletrack and requires paying attention on closed roads with rockfall (it's easy to forget the trailer is pretty wide), note that attached trailer makes kickstand a must



Next bike (under construction):
Craigslist fat tire bike, 4.8" tires with studs on outer two rows of tire tread (none in center for pavement), rear cargo rack, will add mid-drive motor and 11-48 cassette, DIY brackets near head tube and under seat to carry skis, cheap rear panniers for boots, pack will be strapped on top of rack/panniers

Pros: should be a low-geared e-tractor and able to carry necessities without hassling with trailer, singletrack and snow/ice/sand capable

Cons: mid-drive motor kit and battery cost (will need a big 48v), weight, rolling resistance reduces range, can't carry as much as trailer, will have to carry cable to lock when parked

[rfconroy]

got pics?

[riff]

Mine isa internal geared Surly Karate Monkey- full rigid, 3” tires. I’m always debating an E drive for it, to increase range and save the legs…i dig the utility of your examples, strong work!


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[kamtron]

In the market for a rigid e-bike that can handle mountain bike tires (not necessarily fat though). Willing to pay for decent mid-drive motor too. Would love recommendations!

[1000-oaks]

In the market for a rigid e-bike that can handle mountain bike tires (not necessarily fat though). Willing to pay for decent mid-drive motor too. Would love recommendations!

Rad Rover bikes have plus size tires, and Rambo has fat tire mid-drive bikes that can climb anything (models with rear derailleur are geared lower than models with internal hub gearing). Bafang has reasonably priced mid-drive kits (BBSHD) that can be hot-rodded to high power, CYC has three really high-end mid-drive kits depending on your bottom bracket type and power needs, Cyclone has powerful but cheaper and less refined kits (more DIY-headaches than Bafang or CYC).

If you don't mind dropping a chunk of cash, CYC has amazing kits and programmability. A nice older high-end 26" bike with good components plus a CYC kit could get you a pretty nice rig for less than $2,500 plus battery. Wouldn't be as polished as a $6k Giant or Specialized ebike, but it would probably be substantially faster and more powerful.

Ebike thread: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ic-Bike-Thread

[tang]

Strong work on the bike, bike-skiing and thread start.
I agree on going cheap - decent chance of getting pilfered. Otherwise, pack some camo netting!

[Adamantium]

Highly recommend the ebike setup for this purpose, saving the legs for the main event is worthwhile. DIY ebike conversions are pretty easy, here is one a put together from a Chinese kit and a craigslist bike during the pandemic. I spent under $1000 on this setup:



Agree with 1000 oaks, ff you go for a mid drive setup with a heavier bike like a fat bike, the obvious go-to is the Bafang BBSHD (not the somewhat weaker BBS02).

[stuckathuntermtn]

Yeah, but ebikes

[riff]

I think the stylistic downsides of ebikes are drastically reduced when the goal is getting to the springtime corn harvest, vs all the mainstream uses that fuel the banter in the ebike thread in Sprockets.
We’re talking about extra ski laps in places nobody else wants to walk to…

Pros and cons, since I’m bored-

Vs walking, pros:
much faster
Less tiring
Trailer can save you from the pack.

Cons:
More complex; managing batteries, maintenance etc.
Stress of running out of range.
Suffering the scorn of pedestrians.

Vs Motorcycle, Pros:
No oil changes, licensing, fuel, insurance.
Light duty maintenance by comparison.
Silent
Light enough to lift over downed trees or locked gates.
No legal blowback on closed forest roads.
Easier to transport with a car.

Cons:
Maybe not as robust.
Less range
Slower

I’m currently equipped with a motorcycle but ponder ebike builds frequently.


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[1000-oaks]

Most ebike approach is probably on winter-closure roads anyhow, so minimal impact on wilderness.

[RudyGarmisch]

I think the stylistic downsides of ebikes are drastically reduced when the goal is getting to the springtime corn harvest, vs all the mainstream uses that fuel the banter in the ebike thread in Sprockets.
We’re talking about extra ski laps in places nobody else wants to walk to…

Pros and cons, since I’m bored-

Vs walking, pros:
much faster
Less tiring
Trailer can save you from the pack.

Cons:
More complex; managing batteries, maintenance etc.
Stress of running out of range.
Suffering the scorn of pedestrians.

Vs Motorcycle, Pros:
No oil changes, licensing, fuel, insurance.
Light duty maintenance by comparison.
Silent
Light enough to lift over downed trees or locked gates.
No legal blowback on closed forest roads.
Easier to transport with a car.

Cons:
Maybe not as robust.
Less range
Slower

I’m currently equipped with a motorcycle but ponder ebike builds frequently.


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The big hinderance for me and my e-bike western WA spring adventures have been patches of snow on the roads - they take quite a lot of effort to get through, even with deflated tires and donning boots and skis for stability outriggers. Maybe the key is just to go east of the crest where roads melt out faster.

[1000-oaks]

^ Fat bike with snow tires? Add front hub motor for 2WD?

[riff]

Indeed- the patches are ramp up the effort quick. I’m in Eastern WA, and it’s still a thing over here. At least a bike can be moved through by hand, no luck on that with a moto


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[skis_the_trees]

Here are some of my solutions in chronological order. The last racking option (on the yellow bike) is by far my favorite. The wood frame I can attach to any bike/rack and it keeps the skis out of your way completely while riding and is really fast to put skis on/off. The only downside is you can't click your boots into the bindings, as the bindings are what hold the skis on (plus 1 voile strap at the tips).

[riff]

I do short lengths of flexible tubing cut lengthwise and zip tied around frame tubes to keep the paint intact…


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[east or bust]

The fenders on the yellow bike are a nice touch that I wouldn't have thought of. In a lot of situations there's probably lots of melt water and mud all over the place.

[Jacques Sheer-Rocko]

[1000-oaks]

Mad Max and the e-Interceptor have entered the chat.

/thread

[Jacques Sheer-Rocko]

^^^ That little bike has been such a surprisingly good access vehicle for me the past two springs. It’s light enough at 110# to get over downed trees, light enough also to stay on top of much early morning snow when I’m heading uphill. When the snow softens, it’s easy enough to paddle through snow plugs if necessary, but it also has the power to punch through short ones, especially going downhill. I carry my skis diagonally so the tails don’t interfere with the rear tire, and I’m almost always on FS roads that are open enough that I don’t snag my tips (though I need to be mindful of overhanging branches). No brake, shifter, or any thing else on the pegs makes AT boots in walk mode as solid and comfortable as my mx boots, so I never bring approach shoes. 44 mph top speed and it climbs like crazy - in a way I never could master with needing to work the clutch on a real dirt bike. 25 miles r/t is no problem, 30 is possible, even with a few thousand feet of climbing. This bike rips and is so much more versatile than expected and I can’t recommend it enough (unless you’re tall: I’m 5’9”, I don’t think my bike would be comfortable for anyone over ~6’).

[XXX-er]

Yeah, but ebikes

whole buncha rationalization to follow but we know ever time someone hits the power swtich on an e-bike a kitten dies

I found that an E-bike was good for about 10" of snow going uphill at the local mtb area but it was pretty much the end of the seson

[1000-oaks]

For anyone who has old or cracked tech toes, you can use them as rack mounts for carrying boots. Would have to cover tops to keep mud and gravel out though.

[stuckathuntermtn]

^^^ That little bike has been such a surprisingly good access vehicle for me the past two springs. It’s light enough at 110# to get over downed trees, light enough also to stay on top of much early morning snow when I’m heading uphill. When the snow softens, it’s easy enough to paddle through snow plugs if necessary, but it also has the power to punch through short ones, especially going downhill. I carry my skis diagonally so the tails don’t interfere with the rear tire, and I’m almost always on FS roads that are open enough that I don’t snag my tips (though I need to be mindful of overhanging branches). No brake, shifter, or any thing else on the pegs makes AT boots in walk mode as solid and comfortable as my mx boots, so I never bring approach shoes. 44 mph top speed and it climbs like crazy - in a way I never could master with needing to work the clutch on a real dirt bike. 25 miles r/t is no problem, 30 is possible, even with a few thousand feet of climbing. This bike rips and is so much more versatile than expected and I can’t recommend it enough (unless you’re tall: I’m 5’9”, I don’t think my bike would be comfortable for anyone over ~6’).

That's actually pretty bad ass.

whole buncha rationalization to follow but we know ever time someone hits the power swtich on an e-bike a kitten dies

I found that an E-bike was good for about 10" of snow going uphill at the local mtb area but it was pretty much the end of the seson

I really have no right to complain about kitten killing, I suppose. (This is a masturbation joke)

[nickwm21]

Just get a Rad or Aventon and a good lock.


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[kamtron]

Anyone got opinions on this one?
https://www.rei.com/product/221174/c...-electric-bike
I'm lazy and want to avoid modding a non-E bike myself and I like the way this one is built. Simple rigid front and back with mountain tires. Wattage isn't very high in the motor, however, so not sure if that's a deal-breaker or not for steep forest roads. I don't mind putting in a little effort on the way up and it has a torque sensor. It's fairly light, too.

[XXX-er]

well if its made by Cannondale at least its a real bicycle company and you can probably get parts

If I read it right the bike has a throttle which i thot was not legal ?