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Thread: FKS Jong Question

  1. #1
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    FKS Jong Question

    I am a Sollie STH fan and know jackshit about FKSs/Pivots... The short of it is I have a pair of FKS 140s with 115 brakes and have a hookup for 180s with 95 brakes... I know the toes are different, but are the heel pieces the same... I want to put the 180s on my ordered 116 Kartels and the 140s on my ordered Wren 98s... So I need to swap the heels...

    What say you FKS gurus...?

  2. #2
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    You can swap the dildos - flip dildo up, unscrew forward pressure arms, transplant onto desired baseplate/brake assembly.

    But why the 14s on the kartels and the 18s on the wren? The other way around seems to make the most sense to me...

  3. #3
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    ^^This or sell the 14s and buy XavierD's new 115mm P18s for 2 bills.
    "Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers

    photos

  4. #4
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    Agreed! 140 on the Kartels, 180 on the Wrens for sure
    Fear, Doubt, Disbelief, you have to let it all go. Free your mind!

  5. #5
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    ^^ I think he's worried about brake width. The heels are the same, outside of the spring.

    Agreed on just swapping the dildos. You can solve this dilemma with a screwdriver. It's usually not this easy. Jump on it.

    Selling the 14's and getting another pair of 18's is also not a bad option.
    focus.

  6. #6
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    Thank you boys...! And Mustonen you are spot on... I would have done 18s, but got a really good deal on both and the brake sizes were spot on... I bought the FKS 140 with 115 brakes just before Xavier posted and would have been all over them...

    The Wren 98s are going to be a zoomer groomer ski and the Kartel 116s are going to be a POW/next day after a storm ski so wanted the 180s for the weight a beef...

  7. #7
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    I may be missing the point, but I don't see mass added by a binding as helping a ski to bust through crud better.

    If you require a higher DIN value, that's a different matter, but in that case, I'd expect to be more likely to rattle free on hard snow than either new snow or day old chop.

    Am I missing something?

    Cheers,
    Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  8. #8
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    I can't find it now but there is a post that discusses the the 14 and 18 DIN and the diff in ski feel... I run my DIN at 10 so the 14 works fine... I just prefer an all metal toe as I broke a STH 14 toe and never did this with the STH 16...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Undertow View Post
    Thank you boys...! And Mustonen you are spot on... I would have done 18s, but got a really good deal on both and the brake sizes were spot on... I bought the FKS 140 with 115 brakes just before Xavier posted and would have been all over them...

    The Wren 98s are going to be a zoomer groomer ski and the Kartel 116s are going to be a POW/next day after a storm ski so wanted the 180s for the weight a beef...
    Makes since, didn't see the 98's as being your zoomer...

    Galibier, more beef not so much weight
    Fear, Doubt, Disbelief, you have to let it all go. Free your mind!

  10. #10
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    Thanks, it sounded as if the focus was more about deflecto/tip stability and not about ski feel, and mass at your foot (binding weight) doesn't change a ski's design characteristics.

    Wrens not a zoomer??? Now I'm confused, but that's OK. They're zoomers to me ;-)

    ... Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 05-07-2016 at 03:01 PM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  11. #11
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    Uh, you do know the 14 isn't a metal toe, right? And for that matter, neither is the sth16, unless you're talking about the 16 steel.

    I personally would rather have the 18 on a hardpack ski. I think you'll notice the differences between the toe pieces way more there vs on something that mostly just sees pow and crud. Plus hard snow=more force going into bindings, if breakage was a concern.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooks View Post
    ... I personally would rather have the 18 on a hardpack ski. I think you'll notice the differences between the toe pieces way more there vs on something that mostly just sees pow and crud. Plus hard snow=more force going into bindings, if breakage was a concern.
    Indeed! That was one of the the points I was inarticulately trying to make as well.

    Cheers,
    Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  13. #13
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    Not that it really matters either way. Either binding should be totally up to either task. Any perceived benefit of going one over the other for a particular application will be negligible at best, and probably all in your head. So, in other words, a perfect summer TGR conversation. Carry on.
    focus.

  14. #14
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    I've owned both and currently ski a p18 on my every day ski. There is totally a difference. Whether or not someone cares is another thing.

    Aside from how they actually ski, I do not like the durability of the 14 toe compared to the 18. Which is the main reason I would keep the plastic binder on the more center mounted pow ski and stick the metal one on the hard snow ski.

  15. #15
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    Can anyone confirm if aside from the din setting and associated spring, the heel pieces of the 140 and the 180 are the same? And the same weight? Trying to determine if the weight difference between the two is predominantly in the metal toe of the 180.

    For purposes of touring on the cast system, trying to see if there is any weight savings by running the 140 vs the 180. Since the toes wont be on while touring, the only difference would be the heel.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdadour View Post
    Can anyone confirm if aside from the din setting and associated spring, the heel pieces of the 140 and the 180 are the same?
    Yes.

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