Who has experience with that. It seems a few people got to play with them last year. So.... Straight on the line???
(all around skiing and jumping)
Thanks![]()
Who has experience with that. It seems a few people got to play with them last year. So.... Straight on the line???
(all around skiing and jumping)
Thanks![]()
check the armada website...see what jp and julien ride it at, they would probably know the best, cuz its their ski...
shit...nvm they changed the interviews
Here's what Armada told me : In this particular model (JJ) we highly recommend you mount your bindings at the factory recommended mount point, which is indicated by a line near the center of the ski. This factory recommendation is -5cm from center. Additionally, we always recommend that you double check the accuracy of the mark; this can be done by measuring the length of the ski, divide by two to find the center, and then mark -5cm back. If you have any further questions please let us know. Thanks again and enjoy the winter on those sticks.
been on newschoolers a couple times, armada's response:
Thanks for the email and most importantly thanks for picking up some JJs this season. I can 100% guarantee you made a good selection and you will not be disappointed. If you’ve never skied fat rocker technology, you’ll wonder where these skis have been during your epic pow days of the past. I get stoked just talking about the JJ and ARG; both skis literally change the way you will ski pow, and better yet you’ll be able to ski longer as this technology relieves a lot of the effort during the deep days. Without going on and on about the skis, let me get to your questions. Our factory recommended mount point on the JJ is -5cm from center; this point should be indicated on the ski by a line. To get the most accurate measurement I would recommend measuring 82.5cm up from the tail and mark your midsole there. At this point you will maximize the effective sidecut underboot. Give that the sidecut is very compact on the JJ it is best to get everything you can out of the sidecut, and subsequent turn radius. Anthony, JP and Julien use our factory recommended line; however, Tanner and Jakob both mount at -3cm from center because they ski and land switch quite often. If you don’t plan on running the switch landing/skiing program too often definitely mount at the factory recommended line. Hope this helps you out. If you have any further questions please let me know. Thanks again and enjoy the winter.
Tyson Hall
Armada Skis Inc
THanks all
factory line it is then !
The above directions are for the 175 JJ.
For the 185, the mark should be at 87.5 cm from the tail (with the tape touching the topsheet) AND also -5cm (towards the tails) from center. Verify this yourself if you are mounting these on your own. Or pass on this info to the shop techs.
Just measured mine and the lines are close, but not close enough for me.
Has anyone out there found that the jj tends to dive a bit in pow. Has anyone mounted theirs back further than the -5 that is discussed above? I've got a handful of days on them and find I have to be careful or I can bury the tip.
The line is where its at for me. No dive, super easy to swing around. How big are you? The JJs are pretty small for bigger dudes I would imagine.
I had to mount mine (Dukes) on about -0,5cm due to the previous demo bindings (bought a slightly used demo pair, got pretty good price on that).
I'd agree with all the "factory line works best" comments. Cause even with that slight (-0,5) back mount, I felt a bit back seated at times. Might be mostly skier related though? (and on a plus side that keeps you concentrating on a good form and ski really centered/slightly forward weighted all the time).
Didn't get to ski any real pow though (mostly spring conditions and some dust on crust type conditions).
Actually I'd be not worried on little tip dive on these. A bit counterintuitive but IMHO these skis work really well when really "loaded" and skied actively (think a bit of up and down movement, the old school way). I'd just let the tip dive a bit and bounce to the top again between turns...(this is all speculation though. Can't wait to try real powder asap!).
"Average summit heights are around 1000m to 1200m but on the high glaciers of the main Lyngen Peninsula there are summits over 1400m with Jiehkkevarri being the highest at 1834m above sea level."
This is an interesting observation. While I have never experienced tip dive persay, I found you can ski the JJs two ways in powder. Charging with your weight forward over your skis, in which case that old school bouncy technique is really fun, not nearly as energy consuming and keeps you bombing. Or a little more relaxed and centered where its more of a surfy vibe. I still have to imagine that weight would factor in at some point. I weigh about 165 with gear on. But I can imagine if you are in the 180+ range, the shorter 183 length would really start to show
I have my ARGs (similar ski shape to the JJ, minus the sidecut) at factory recommended -5. It's definitely too far forward. I should have known that the "factory recommended" line from a company comprised of backwards skiing park skiers would be too far forward. -5 feels like I'm center mounted.
I don't ski backwards and wished I'd mounted at -7.
If you're not skiing switch you may want to find some people who mounted -7 on the JJ's and see what their thoughts are on it.
Last edited by arewolfe; 12-01-2009 at 01:55 PM.
I got a couple of days so far on JJ's ,they don't stay completely above the surface at all times ,consider that the tips are narrower than the ski at start of the early rise but I found I can count on that early rise tip to plane to the surface and I never felt like I was going over the tips
I am happy at the line ,I think a ski that radical (for me anyway) is going to take a bit more getting used to but i agree with a charging forward ,staying centered style ...maybe give it some time before mounting further back ?
I talked to a tele wanker who tried the JJ's in 30cms of fresh ,buddy flat out hated them ,said he was always in the back seat ,the shop gave back his money ,whats different in a tele style to cause that ...too low of a stance ?
I got demo bindings on mine so I know I got some movement in the toe piece to get back probably an inch
As someone mentioned the lines are very slightly different by a few mm so measure from the tails as in the e-mail form armada
Too back seat of a stance? I've heard that too, i.e. many teles-skiers dissing tail rocker. I guess if you have a really backfoot driven style, tail rocker would cause some trouble.talked to a tele wanker who tried the JJ's in 30cms of fresh ,buddy flat out hated them ,said he was always in the back seat ,the shop gave back his money ,whats different in a tele style to cause that ...too low of a stance ?
I guess those guys should just enter the new school and weight forward foot more, even in powder?
(That said, I know really good tele skiers that dislike tail rocker...in the end it must depend on one's personal style/technique?)
Last edited by Jiehkevarri; 12-01-2009 at 02:02 PM.
"Average summit heights are around 1000m to 1200m but on the high glaciers of the main Lyngen Peninsula there are summits over 1400m with Jiehkkevarri being the highest at 1834m above sea level."
left mine at sports den today. talked with jibber friends and the shop tech (pretty sure the dude knows his shit, heh), going to mount with s dukes at +2. we'll see what happens.
I had Marshal mount mine at -2 but was kinda nervous that I would miss the "sweet spot" of the sidecut by deviating from the manufacturer's recs.
I skied them on hardpack today and am pleased to report that -2 is totally fine for activating the quick slalom sidecut (with plenty of edgehold) for which the ski is known.
nhtele: -2 from center, or -2 from factory rec. line?
2cm rearward of the factory line. This would mean ~-7 from center, I believe.
Edit to add:
It was this quote exactly that I had in mind when I chose the mounting point. They are mounted with Dynafit ST10 and driven by Titans. I have an extremely forward stance (at least from the waist up):
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Last edited by nhtele; 12-21-2009 at 04:15 PM.
I though if you screwed with this mount point it fucked up the ski. That's just what I've heard
Old thread I know, but in case others are stumbling upon JJs cheap as I did:
Went from Factory recommended line to -2 and the later feels far better. I'm able to push the front of the ski more without tip dive and they still engage sidecut quite well on hardpack.
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Last edited by McFly1212; 02-09-2016 at 05:45 PM. Reason: forgot a word
Got some o.g. JJ's and tried minus 2 from the line and found that while slow speed planing improved a hair and allowed for slightly more tip driven turns in bottomless pow, upside down snow and punchy breakable crust with deeper soft stuff underneath, the compromise in feeling like there was quite a bit less tail support in bumpy/featured terrain and charging pillow lines, etc... meant many more instances of wheeling out with any heel pressure. Going back also, for my body/weight/ski style, took me out of the sweet spot on groomers and back country snow...ski just felt weird. Also, the improvement in float was not enough, still got tip dive skiing aggresively on pillow lines and steep and deep terrain/snow.
My solution for backcountry snow was installation of 5 cm tip extenders made of 1/4 inch lexan plastic. Game changer for the bottomless pow and upside down snow and deeper mashed potatos...not one incidence of tip dive and could totally drive the tips with shin pressure. Usesless on groomers and shallower pow but they are removable so I just take 'em off when not required.
No clue about the 2.0 though...could be a different beast.
IMO, the JJ's widest point on ski tail is too fat and keeps the ski a bit too parallel with the slope angle and pitches the ski slightly forward in nuancy deep snow/upside down snow. Also, I kinda suspect if the widest part of the front of the ski was ahead of the contact point of the rocker, this would have also assisted in better slow speed planing and tip float. I have an old delam pair kicking around for experiments...I might just take an angle grinder to the rear and bend some more rocker behind the present contact point in the shovels and see what happens.
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