TR: San Luis (14,014') 5-28-2007
goldenboy, jcwhite, mtnbikerskierchick
After hitting Sunshine and Redcloud on Saturday and Handies on Sunday, we packed up our camp and headed down to Lake City to stay with jcwhite's grandparents who were visiting from Texas, staying in their family cabin. Things in Lake City were pretty slow with their season just starting. At least it wasn't as bad as when we came here in April and couldn't find a restaurant that was open!
The wake-up call was at 3 am on this Monday morning. We drove toward Creede, which took us about an hour from Lake City. We went over some amazing passes, but I was barely even awake to noticeWe arrived at Creede. still in the dark. But as we began taking a dirt road that goes up about 7 miles to the Equity Mine, the light of the day slowly brought us back to life.
After messing around with our packs for awhile, we began hiking around 6:15 am. We followed the Willow Creek road north from the Equity Mine (at 11,090') for a couple of miles. When hiking through the willowed area of the valley I saw lots of evidence of moose. I didn't think that moose lived in the San Juans- I usually think about them being more north toward Fraser and Steamboat, but evidently they were reintroduced here. I think they are doing pretty well here as there were moose droppings and tracks everywhere.
We then took a right turn NE heading toward a saddle
Looking back down at Willow Creek valley.
I was moving slow. I was so tired from too many mornings of waking up early, lack of sleep and being sick earlier in the week. Finally we reached the saddle at 12,300 ft. and got a good view of San Luis.
A closer look revealed that our intented line, the Yawner Gullies, were indeed filled with snow.
But closer look also revealed to what we were going to do to have to get there. We were going to have to traverse across the basin on skis, loosing some elevation, then work our way up to the second saddle at 12,400 ft. Then we would go down that saddle, traverse across the next basin to the third saddle at 12,600 ft. That saddle would bring us to the southern ridge of San Luis and we could follow that ridge to the summit.
I looked at goldenboy and said, "It's going to be a LONG day". Okay, time to wake up, I thought to myself!
We put on our skis (we had hiking boots on before this point) dropped about 450 ft from the first saddle, boot packed up to the second saddle and dropped another 250 ft, and began skinning up to the 3rd saddle. There were some neat rock formations on the third saddle we admired on the way up.
From there the route was pretty easy. We were able to skin the whole way along the ridge to the summit.
jcwhite and goldenboy at the summit.
Yay, I'm close to the summit!
jcwhite summited around 10:45, goldenboy shortly after, and I summited around 11 am. Despite the length of the route, it only took us about 4.5 hours to reach the summit.
Looking back at the ridge we followed to the summit.
Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn
Looking east
Looking north
Looking west, back at our ascent route. Red lines show traverses done on skis. Blue shows climbing up either on skins or boot packing. Pink marks part of our eventual return route where we skinned back up to the first saddle.
We could see clouds moving in. While they didn't seem like they would bring thunder or lightning, we did think they might bring rain. So we hurried off the summit.
goldenboy acting like a gaper off the summit![]()
jcwhite skiing off the summit
goldenboy shreds it down the Yawner Gully
I wish I had more pics of jcwhite, but I seemed to have contracted goldenboy's disease for taking blurry picturesI had a few more of jcwhite, but they turned out blurry. Sorry jcwhite!
Here's one of him skiing down the lower part of the Yawner Gully.
We were able to ski down 2,200 ft to about 11,800 ft. From there we had to walk a couple hundred vert down to the valley over scree. We then followed the valley down for a bit, with intentions of following it down to where it intersected with another valley, which we had to go up to reach the first saddle. But moving through this valley was slow. The snow was collapsable, fallen logs everywhere, and we seemed to be going no where fast. Eventually we worked our way up the ridge, and then went back down the other side into the valley. We found much of the same conditions in that valley-- collapsable snow, fallen logs. We tried to stick as close to the creek as possible on narrow strips of snow, in order to avoid these obstacles.
Then the valley opened up into this:
A valley of willows- my worst enemy. Now, jcwhite doesn't have such a problem with willows because he's so dang tall. He's a foot and 2 inches taller than me. goldenboy seems to adore willows- afterall, he's so dang skinny he can fit easily between them. Me, on the other hand.... well, I'm munchkin-sized and I'm not exactly skinny, so me and willows-- we are not friends.
Goldenboy and jcwhite posing, during a break in the willows
Like the willows on the other side of the ridge, there was lots of evidence of moose. We wondered if we would be so lucky as to see one. And then we did.
And she had a little one with her too!
The moose were a bright light in a thicket of darkness. It was good to see them. But we still had a long ways to go! It seemed like forever that we skinned up this valley, and finally we took a right, heading up toward the first saddle.
Looking back down the valley we skinned up.
goldenboy waiting for us on the first saddle.
From the first saddle, we were able to ski down a SW-facing gully for about 700 ft. until it met up with the Willow Creek rd. From there we changed back over to shoes.
(More coming!)
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