The chainsaw thread...

[Garth Bimble]

I know search function jong but too much here to look through. I need some chain recs. Been using Oregon AdvanceCuts, they're cheap and perform that way. Great when new but lose the edge fast and dull up faster after sharpening. Got to be something better?

[XXX-er]

I just buy Sthil chains from the Sthil dealer, they will usually last a day of cutting but i don't file when I am cutting

if needed I just swap in a new chain and sharpen them at home on a jig while having a drink

[shafty85]

Two questions. Currently own an old Stihl 011 AV with a 15" bar. It's old and it's what we've used at our family cabin in Northwestern Ontario for years. Currently leaks bar oil like a sieve when running - just gobs of it mixing with the old sawdust caught in the housing/bar interface and it puddles onto the ground when set down and left running. Any idea what might be causing this or how to fix it? Not super familiar with saws but looks like I'll be using them much more regularly moving forward so want to start taking better care of it. Recently had it tuned at the local shop. I'll be keeping this saw, and trying to keep it running, for the foreseeable future as it has sentimental value as well as being useful damn efficient at smaller jobs.

Secondly, living on the west coast, the trees here are slightly larger than back east at our cabin and I was hoping to upgrade as we look to be cutting wood this winter for our wall tent which we hope to use 2-3 weekends a month. A local guy is selling a used MS361. We also hope to buy a little property in the not-too-distant future, so a bigger saw would be useful there, too. Of course, he claims it's in good shape - I have yet to lay eyes on it and don't really know what to look for in the first place other than running it and checking the chain to see how worn it is. He's asking $525CAN (about $400US). How's that for price?



This is the general vicinity where the oil is gooping up on the sawdust and leaking from. I've cleaned the sawdust and oil/crap out before taking the photo.


On a related note - anyone have any recommendations for chaps? Don't want to break the bank but am willing to pay for more than the cheapest thing to protect my legs.

[zion zig zag]

The sawdust by the bar of the 461 is beautiful. Either a new chain or you know your files. Kudos if the latter

The 461 was borrowed and I touched up the chain before I started cutting. The sawdust was from “noodling” those big rounds in half so I could wrestle them to the splitter. It always makes pretty cool dust when cutting long ways like that. But thanks none the less.

[BCMtnHound]

The 461 was borrowed and I touched up the chain before I started cutting. The sawdust was from “noodling” those big rounds in half so I could wrestle them to the splitter. It always makes pretty cool dust when cutting long ways like that. But thanks none the less.

Ah, cutting lengthwise along the grain makes sense. I only knew one old faller that could freehand sharpen his chain to produce inch-long shavings cutting across the round of softwood consistently. Made for a bit sensitive of a tooth though, could he ever string a bunch of expletives into a chain if he touched mother earth with the saw!

[zion zig zag]

Two questions. Currently own an old Stihl 011 AV with a 15" bar. It's old and it's what we've used at our family cabin in Northwestern Ontario for years. Currently leaks bar oil like a sieve when running - just gobs of it mixing with the old sawdust caught in the housing/bar interface and it puddles onto the ground when set down and left running. Any idea what might be causing this or how to fix it? Not super familiar with saws but looks like I'll be using them much more regularly moving forward so want to start taking better care of it. Recently had it tuned at the local shop. I'll be keeping this saw, and trying to keep it running, for the foreseeable future as it has sentimental value as well as being useful damn efficient at smaller jobs.

Secondly, living on the west coast, the trees here are slightly larger than back east at our cabin and I was hoping to upgrade as we look to be cutting wood this winter for our wall tent which we hope to use 2-3 weekends a month. A local guy is selling a used MS361. We also hope to buy a little property in the not-too-distant future, so a bigger saw would be useful there, too. Of course, he claims it's in good shape - I have yet to lay eyes on it and don't really know what to look for in the first place other than running it and checking the chain to see how worn it is. He's asking $525CAN (about $400US). How's that for price?



This is the general vicinity where the oil is gooping up on the sawdust and leaking from. I've cleaned the sawdust and oil/crap out before taking the photo.


On a related note - anyone have any recommendations for chaps? Don't want to break the bank but am willing to pay for more than the cheapest thing to protect my legs.

361 is a nice saw. What size bar do you see yourself running most often? I think it’d be happiest with a 18-20” bar and you could probably run 24” in a pinch. Checking compression is probably the best thing to do when looking at used saws if you can. Barring that I’d say general questions of how it was used, stored, what fuel/oil he used in it, how clean/maintained it looks etc.

I’ve only ever used Stihl apron chaps and never had to check function. I think if I was cutting primarily in cool weather id appreciate the extra coverage of calf wrap chaps, especially when limbing in awkward positions. If you have access to an ExpertVoice account Arborwear is on there and makes a couple pairs of chaps that get good reviews.

[XXX-er]

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.ns...3?OpenDocument

it could be 30yrs old and its pretty small, at least it has a chain brake, I would take the cover off the bar/chain/clutch area, and then run the engine to see where the oil is leaking from, you could google/ask on one of the arborist sites what to do when you got a Valdez situation on that model and someone should know

I used a 361 for 5 years, probably a good size for cutting fire wood and most important it is a pro saw

Just google around for an average price on a 361, right now a new 362 (more or less the same saw) is 900 can$

I just got the Sthil branded chaps from the local dealer at around 100$

[BCMtnHound]

If I am running saw all day, I prefer to use proper safety pants. They are more comfortable and offer better protection, and only cost about $25 more than comparable protective chaps. The chaps live in the truck tote for when the odd bit of deadfall or campfire wood is cut up. So it depends on how much saw work you are talking about. Long days recommend full protection, as fatigue makes for greater chances of getting nicked.

[bodywhomper]

I have an ms361. Bought used for $300 US. It had (and had) good compression, but was very abused when I bought it. I replaced a bunch of stuff got lots of free advice on here, arboristsite, from a friend, and from the guys at my saw shop. It runs great now. And I did the muffler mod described a lot on arboristsite.

Buying a used saw, my recent experience with 2 used saws (both bought at 2nd hand stores), you should expect to replace the fuel line and fuel filter. If it’s been run on ethanol fuel, also expect to buy/install a carb kit.

I run a 24” bar on mine. Recently been cutting big rounds of oak and pine that are bigger than the bar. It’s been a champ. With that size bar, it’s a bit nose heavy in terms of balance. I’m not a big and strong guy, the saw weight wears me out after a few hours.

That saw is also known to sip bar oil, which seems to bug a lot of people.

Easy to flood that engine, too, when starting cold.

[XXX-er]

If I am running saw all day, I prefer to use proper safety pants. They are more comfortable and offer better protection, and only cost about $25 more than comparable protective chaps. The chaps live in the truck tote for when the odd bit of deadfall or campfire wood is cut up. So it depends on how much saw work you are talking about. Long days recommend full protection, as fatigue makes for greater chances of getting nicked.

Since you are a BC local where did you get them ^^ from, we are usually doing 5-6 hr along with hiking the gear up ski runs so I'm thinking of going to a full pant

[XXX-er]

I have an ms361. Bought used for $300 US. It had (and had) good compression, but was very abused when I bought it. I replaced a bunch of stuff got lots of free advice on here, arboristsite, from a friend, and from the guys at my saw shop. It runs great now. And I did the muffler mod described a lot on arboristsite.

Buying a used saw, my recent experience with 2 used saws (both bought at 2nd hand stores), you should expect to replace the fuel line and fuel filter. If it’s been run on ethanol fuel, also expect to buy/install a carb kit.

I run a 24” bar on mine. Recently been cutting big rounds of oak and pine that are bigger than the bar. It’s been a champ. With that size bar, it’s a bit nose heavy in terms of balance. I’m not a big and strong guy, the saw weight wears me out after a few hours.

That saw is also known to sip bar oil, which seems to bug a lot of people.

Easy to flood that engine, too, when starting cold.

I think the fuel might be better up here than down there but I always use premium

What is your cold starting drill? On Sthils i find full choke till it barks once and then start it on half choke works the best

Shafty might consider starting his own abuse program on a brand new saw

[BCMtnHound]

I purchased mine many moons ago at the old saw shop in Kaslo. For current pricing reference I just jumped into the canada Stihl online store. The local saw shop here carries husqui brand, but I can’t recall their prices off the top of my head.

[XXX-er]

Ah, cutting lengthwise along the grain makes sense. I only knew one old faller that could freehand sharpen his chain to produce inch-long shavings cutting across the round of softwood consistently. Made for a bit sensitive of a tooth though, could he ever string a bunch of expletives into a chain if he touched mother earth with the saw!

https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/ba...-guide/p/23820

I do carry the Husqavarna roller jig but I been using one of these^^ at home to sharpen 2 chains and I just swap em instead of kneeling in the snow filing

It does an awesume job and only 35 $ at canuck tire eh

[bodywhomper]

I think the fuel might be better up here than down there but I always use premium

What is your cold starting drill? On Sthils i find full choke till it barks once and then start it on half choke works the best

Shafty might consider starting his own abuse program on a brand new saw

For cold starting my ms361, i would not even call it a bark. Sometimes its barely a half bark or growl before i set to that half throttle setting. If seems like an extra pull after that bark/growl and it'd be flooded if at full throttle. I don't wear ear protection when cold starting that saw because i often could not hear the bark/growl.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using TGR Forums mobile app

[toast2266]

Since you are a BC local where did you get them ^^ from, we are usually doing 5-6 hr along with hiking the gear up ski runs so I'm thinking of going to a full pant

Less safe, but I'm a fan of chaps just because I can wear shorts under them on hot days in the summer and not die from heat exhaustion while hiking around.

I don't recall what chaps I own, but I know the last time I shopped for some, a lot of the options were pretty short (and I'm not a tall guy). Just an fyi if you're planning on ordering something online.

[zion zig zag]

I don't recall what chaps I own, but I know the last time I shopped for some, a lot of the options were pretty short (and I'm not a tall guy). Just an fyi if you're planning on ordering something online.

Agreed. 32" stihl chaps only come to the top of my 8" boots, I'm 5'11".

[XXX-er]

as opposed to heat exhaustion, I'm more concerned with not feeling my fingers, wet & cold while dragging a saw around in 2 ft of snow after it plugs up completely with wet sawdust

but the drought this fall has made for some awesume nice days to run saw but I sure hope it stops droughting pretty soon

[frorider]

More stoke: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bp45Mo8g...=1mbqwe9kj0dfx

[Meadow Skipper]

More stoke: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bp45Mo8g...=1mbqwe9kj0dfx

Awesome, eh?

[Jethro]

I’m looking for a good saw for cutting logs into firewood at home. I’m looking at Makita 120v models and recently the Stihl MSE 250 plug in 120v saw. The Makita is about $250. The Stihl is near $550. I’m leaning towards the Makita. They make excellent gas saws (Dolmar) and they probably have vastly more electric motor design expertise compared to Stihl. Does anyone have any experience with these makers electric saws?

[Bronco]

I’m looking for a good saw for cutting logs into firewood at home. I’m looking at Makita 120v models and recently the Stihl MSE 250 plug in 120v saw. The Makita is about $250. The Stihl is near $550. I’m leaning towards the Makita. They make excellent gas saws (Dolmar) and they probably have vastly more electric motor design expertise compared to Stihl. Does anyone have any experience with these makers electric saws?

I worked as a log carpenter for a few years. We each had an electric and gas saw. Electric were only used indoors or for delicate chainsaw work because they have nowhere near the production of a gas saw. That being said, I had a Husky and Makita 120v saw and they were both fine, lasted a lot longer than I thought they would with heavy daily use.

[Game Over]

I just got a tachometer and hope to set up my saws at the ideal spot. Will report back

[tyfalk]

Any recommendations on what Stihl chainsaw to get for just around the house and property at my new place in Huntington Vermont?

[Cruiser]

My buddy, rontele, is a sales manager for stihl up in New England. Shoot him a pm here on the forum and he'll put you in touch with a local dealer that will steer you in the right direction and probably offer you a nice "good guys" discount. Wait, you're the guy with the tractor problem aren't you? In that case, disregard everything I just typed.

[XXX-er]

The Sthil are all the same color so its hard to go wrong

but i would go for the pro quality models of so 261/361 and on up

you will spend almost as much on the safety gear

if you wana buy a red one it will have to be Jonsered