Shit you built with your own two hands (picture thread)

[Not DJSapp]

Any wisdom on bolts with washers?

I don't think anybody ever regretted using washers. They distribute the compressive force around the hole you drilled out to competent material. And they're cheap.

Now I know people that have regretted skipping washers...

[Norseman]

Ah so it's an Engineering Salon you're building? Yeah I'll come over to help slap some sheathththth on dat, call when ready.

I got a good router for the windows etc... but I'll charge extra beers for the pleasure of doing it after the walls are already vertical.

[Buster Highmen]

Foundation deets:
Used eztube pylons: https://www.ez-crete.com/products/ez-tube/

There's 1/4" right angle brackets holding the 2x12s in.

See second picture: https://www.instagram.com/p/CDe-CZ9jTSA/

[Buster Highmen]

Ah so it's an Engineering Salon you're building? Yeah I'll come over to help slap some sheathththth on dat, call when ready.

I got a good router for the windows etc... but I'll charge extra beers for the pleasure of doing it after the walls are already vertical.

I'm sorry, but extra beers may be supplanted with 20 year old red burgundy or 40 year old sauternes at the hosts behest.

[Not DJSapp]

Intredasting. Is the point of confusion “safe” or “recommended” shear load vs. absolute shear strength? Because all the stuff I’ve ever seen has nails as significantly superior in that regard for equivalent diameter fasteners.

It's more complicated than that. There are several factors in play here.

1. Nails are (generally) made of mild ductile steel. Screws (generally) are made of a less ductile steel alloy (they have to resist the torque applied to them where nails need to resist buckling). Rule of thumb is the less ductile an alloy, the higher the absolute strength. But they suck for dealing with strain. There are specialty fasteners that provide plenty of exceptions to all of this, I'm just talking about your general stuff you'd walk into home despot and grab

2. Nailing or screwing schedules and the safety factors involved are fine for the initial condition, but 20 years down the road something has sagged and you need that ductility. If the nails bend, they might back out a bit or they might get stuck, but you mostly keep your strength. The screws don't offer that, so one side of the structure is essentially unloaded, and the other is carrying everything. Once one screw pops, the rest could fall like dominos and your structure unzips. Ask me how I know. The teaching moments one can have when a concrete form blows out and everyone is shoveling 8 cy of half set up mud into wheelbarrows stick with you.

3. To your point of confusion: I'm not clear exactly what you're saying here. From a pure metallurgy standpoint, the screw is stronger. A #6 screw is equivalent to a 8d nail in width and a #8 screw is equivalent to a 16d nail, and the stronger alloy wins. In reality, there's a lot of variables in play in what constitutes a safe or recommended load. The materials you are fastening matter. Pine vs. ply vs. MDF vs. oak all have different max loads for the same fastener. The size of the hole plays a factor here with splitting of fibers with a nail point or the auger of the screw biting and tearing wood fibers. So you can't just straight compare the two. They both have their place and uses.

[Buster Highmen]

The green reed which bends in the wind is stronger than the mighty oak which breaks in a storm.”

― Confucius

[::: :::]

not exciting reading, but for ref...prescriptive wall code WA residential
https://up.codes/viewer/washington/w...construction#6

chap 8 is roof

to follow up & clarify/amplify

the answer to how many & what kind of nails is in there ^^^

one example

[Norseman]

I'm sorry, but extra beers may be supplanted with 20 year old red burgundy or 40 year old sauternes at the hosts behest.

Substitution accepted, though perhaps wasted on an unscrupulous palette

[Buster Highmen]

Substitution accepted, though perhaps wasted on an unscrupulous palette

[Norseman]

palate, excuse me.

but i do see a burgundy

[abraham]

Ha immoral paint with an aged wine base.

[RootSkier]

Not all screws are created equal. Some really are structural. I'll take a few of these over the equivalent number of nails any day.

[lifelinksplit]

Not all screws are created equal. Some really are structural. I'll take a few of these over the equivalent number of nails any day.

GRK's all day. But hot damn they aint cheap(like anything is right now). Typically if I'm in a hurry when sistering larger 2x12's, lvl's, etc I'll nail on a less stringent schedule and then come back and screw off. If I ever get a slab poured maybe I'll have some pics of my garage to contribute.

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[Not DJSapp]

GRK's all day. But hot damn they aint cheap(like anything is right now). Typically if I'm in a hurry when sistering larger 2x12's, lvl's, etc I'll nail on a less stringent schedule and then come back and screw off. If I ever get a slab poured maybe I'll have some pics of my garage to contribute.

$0.41/ea for the GRK structural or $0.02/ea for bright common 16d. Fucking luxury fastener. Should I invest in dogecoin or GRK's?

[Skidog]

GRK's all day. But hot damn they aint cheap(like anything is right now). Typically if I'm in a hurry when sistering larger 2x12's, lvl's, etc I'll nail on a less stringent schedule and then come back and screw off. If I ever get a slab poured maybe I'll have some pics of my garage to contribute.

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Speaking of screws....I'm loving the torx bit heads. Fuck Phillips. Almost pisses me off when I need to grab the Phillips for something. Also love lots of boxes come with a bit. They're all over the place now lol

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[Skidog]

$0.41/ea for the GRK structural or $0.02/ea for bright common 16d. Fucking luxury fastener. Should I invest in dogecoin or GRK's?

Hey when the customers paying.

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[nickwm21]

Buster, you are inventing a new style of framing. I like it, even though it seems like an absolute shit ton of extra work.

I was going to comment on how he is missing jack studs on all his openings but then noticed he has this massive built up header running full length and double, sometimes triple king studs.

She might not be by the book, but she’s not going to fall over….


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[Thaleia]

Speaking of screws....I'm loving the torx bit heads. Fuck Phillips. Almost pisses me off when I need to grab the Phillips for something. Also love lots of boxes come with a bit. They're all over the place now lol

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using TGR Forums mobile app

Robertson should have been the standard.

Ducks..

[jackstraw]

It's more complicated than that. There are several factors in play here.

1. Nails are (generally) made of mild ductile steel. Screws (generally) are made of a less ductile steel alloy (they have to resist the torque applied to them where nails need to resist buckling). Rule of thumb is the less ductile an alloy, the higher the absolute strength. But they suck for dealing with strain. There are specialty fasteners that provide plenty of exceptions to all of this, I'm just talking about your general stuff you'd walk into home despot and grab

2. Nailing or screwing schedules and the safety factors involved are fine for the initial condition, but 20 years down the road something has sagged and you need that ductility. If the nails bend, they might back out a bit or they might get stuck, but you mostly keep your strength. The screws don't offer that, so one side of the structure is essentially unloaded, and the other is carrying everything. Once one screw pops, the rest could fall like dominos and your structure unzips. Ask me how I know. The teaching moments one can have when a concrete form blows out and everyone is shoveling 8 cy of half set up mud into wheelbarrows stick with you.

3. To your point of confusion: I'm not clear exactly what you're saying here. From a pure metallurgy standpoint, the screw is stronger. A #6 screw is equivalent to a 8d nail in width and a #8 screw is equivalent to a 16d nail, and the stronger alloy wins. In reality, there's a lot of variables in play in what constitutes a safe or recommended load. The materials you are fastening matter. Pine vs. ply vs. MDF vs. oak all have different max loads for the same fastener. The size of the hole plays a factor here with splitting of fibers with a nail point or the auger of the screw biting and tearing wood fibers. So you can't just straight compare the two. They both have their place and uses.

Interesting. I always thought the nail was superior no matter what in a load-bearing situation. I'd sometimes use screws to get whatever it was lined up properly and then nail the shit out of it.

Side note - building a house in Olympic Valley one fall before the ski season, the inspector comes by and tells us that we don't have enough nails in the wall sheathing. As most carpenters know, you just fire away with the nail gun and call it good. 6-8-10 inches. Whatever random amount. The inspector said we had too few and wanted them like every 3-4". I kinda tilted my head and thought to myself, does he want anything left to the stud holding the sheathing? He watched us for a little bit as we set up ladders and blasted more nails. Idk, Tahoe has the highest snow load and also earthquakes, so their codes are different than most places.

[fatnslow]

Good question. My son is still home (heads back to Reed in 2 weeks for start of sophomore year, already being groomed by faculty for Watson and Fullbright). So I'm hoping to get the second story walls up before he goes. After that, the birdmouthed roof rafters shouldn't bee too hard and I think I understand how to do the roof framing. Once that's done, hopefully I'll have a sheeting party (Norse?) before the rains start.

Huh, my nephew has a friend starting sophomore year at Reed from Seattle, they went to Garfield.

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

No journeyman pipefitters were harmed in the making of this water system, nor are they in anyway at risk of losing their employment to me.

Tired of filing up the 20+ year old water softener with salt and with my BP edging towards high, in addition to a 25 year old water heater thats on death's door, I decided to install a new pressure tank, whole house conditioner, UV filter and new 50 gallon 5500 watt water heater. I decided to sweat pipe because I couldn't find a rental press tool and I didn't want to do PEX because I hate the look of it.

After action report - I haven't sweated pipe in a long, long time. I had one squirter, and forgot to sweat one fitting. And almost all the brass fittings and nipples at the pressure tank leaked and needed to be angry gorilla on PCP tight to stop the drips.

Before


After

[Mazderati]

Looks pretty clean to this untrained eye.

[snoqpass]

Nails over screws x whatever. Screws are shit for shear strength. Make sure you didn’t use screws for your hangers, either…..

Sister those joists with a bunch of nails. 3 per 16 inches is standard, I think. I like angling them in alternating directions, so if you looked at them from the top or bottom with an x ray you’d see an X. That’s almost certainly unnecessary, though.

You can use screws for hangers these days, problem is people don’t understand the difference between types of screws and they use things like decking screws not structural screws that are designed for that use

[Buster Highmen]

I got some 4x8 hangers from fasteners plus.

I've got a load of tico screws for the hangers once it cools down a little. My crew, being PNW born, has a 90F cutoff clause.
I'm planning on following Mustonens suggestion, using 3 1/4 inch framing nails to join 2 2x8s .

In my third person building, I decided to go with the doubled up 2x10 headers all around. I thought it saves lots of cutting for the jacks, therefor lots of labor. I'd rather trade the materials cost for the labor.

The nail gun, a metabo, has made this possible.

[Buster Highmen]

#dreamshack second floor joists complete.

The sistering went well on 1, not so well on another due to some warpage, so I may bolt that one. I did the x thing with the nails, 3 1/4 inchers, about 4 every 6 inches.

I had to offset 4 inches from the window jack to make the remaining span 6 feet and to leave enough room for the first couple of stairs.

I couldn't figure out the second story stairwell back wall with the usual 'joists on cap', that seemed way more complicated, so that's part of the reason I went with hangers.

After all the insertions, everything is still level and true except for the warpage in spots. That shit drives me nuts.