Shit you built with your own two hands (picture thread)

[PeachesNCream]

First time looking through this thread but I'm a big fan of rubio monocoat. Used it on my butcher block kitchen island that I did last winter. Turned out great. Looks good and preserves the wood feel.

[old goat]

https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019...ngled-finishes

Question #3 from has their discussion on rubio. As far as wear, my upstairs coffee/dining table is now a year old. High touch, high wear, medium moisture and it looks good as new.

Wood by Wright did a pretty detailed comparison to Boiled Linseed oil too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAYT...odByWrightHow2

If you're looking for rough boards in Sacramento, Urban wood rescue is a cool project that slabs out local fallen trees. Decent prices, but inventory is variable

https://www.urbanwoodrescue.com/

That urban wood rescue looks interesting. Ill definitely check that out. Prices look good.

[maskinut]

The only thing from home depot was the screws. 40’ long 7’ wide

[soul_skier]

I have a brand new festool rotex 150 for sale if anyone is interested. Looks like it retails for $670, happy to sell it here for $500 and split shipping before it goes to ebay/craigslist.

I'm only selling it as I have a duplicate of this exact sander in the garage already.

[Buster Highmen]

The roof has taken a long time.

Finally got the bird blocking in and now, today, got the chimney support box and the chimney in through a high temperature resistant and not python silicone boot.

Windows ,some salvaged, some new, next.

[Skrilla Gorilla]

I repaired (with my mitts) a Thule Frontier my wife wedged under the garage door econo. This was my first time using Oatey ABS adhesive. Drywall tape fiberglass and some elbow grease did the rest...

The damage:


This is the only beta on the dent. The box sat dented in the garage loft for almost a year. Ye Olde Youtube taught a kids that ABS plastic auto body can be easily manipulated with boiling water. A kettle and rubber mallet got it back "into shape" no problem.





This was my greatest area of concern. The ABS sheeting had deviated more than the pictures show. I considered cutting off the top flap completely, I considered trying to pull the sheeting together with wires (See Supra Ye Olde Youtube), I considered giving up.

[Skrilla Gorilla]

Some shots of the first layer in the interior. With pliable, adhesive fiberglass it was relatively easy to get the sheetings to pull together/reform/line up on cracks that weren't as bad as the area of concern. I also ignored Ye Olde Youtube advice to remove the top half and re-rivet. I don't do riveting. sand/salt bags on sawhorses provided enough support to get the job done inside and out; base down and lid down.

Actual fiber glass spreaders might have gone a long way here. I tried just the Oatey OEM cotton ball dip stick alone to flatten the fiberglass tape down at first, and an aftermarket dipstick might have helped out significantly as well. I ended up using a few cheap plastic putty knives, they were toast at the end.

[Skrilla Gorilla]

I used both a circular sander and a sponge. The Makita only got used for a minute, a 60grit sponges was plenty. Also, white gas for the camp stove really went a mile in cleaning/prepping the spots that got the love, thanks for the tip Ye Olde Youtube.







This was my alternative to snipping and drilling wiring. The third picture above shows best the weight I put inside the lid to get the pressure and angle right for the scrap wood stints supported by the sand buckets.



The opposing scrap wood stint.

[Skrilla Gorilla]

Lots of progress with just 1.5 layers of fiberglass and Oatey ABS cement on the interior side of the lid only with some stint jury-rigged pressure to assist.

Note also the white gas for cleaning/prepping.

[Skrilla Gorilla]

Glassing on top. I did two layers on each side. It made for many recesses which became a minor problem later. But I wanted to have the rudimentary drywall tape fiberglass crossing in different directions for strength.

[Skrilla Gorilla]

Last layers and paint. I saw a "thick, fills gap" auto primer in Home Despot today. I wish I'd seen it when I was buying these cans.













I've got some stencils coming in...

[Thaleia]

I'm not quite sold on the process, do you have any more photos to share? J/k, sincere props on keeping that out of the landfill! Nicely done.

[Mazderati]

Can't even tell it's been repaired.





In all seriousness, what Thalela said re: landfill. Plus, roof boxes are stupid expensive for what they are.

[MakersTeleMark]

How's the dishwasher look?

[LegoSkier]

Needed a new cabinet for musical electronics. Those are tough to find to my spec so I built one. Roughly kitchen counter height. Houses DJ controller up top, two slide out shelves for laptop and small mixer. Standard 19" rack gear can be mounted below that with random stuff on the bottom (need to get a small bin for that still). Rides on 4 locking casters. Nothing fancy but overall I am happy with the results.

[Skrilla Gorilla]

Needed a new cabinet for musical electronics. Those are tough to find to my spec so I built one. Roughly kitchen counter height. Houses DJ controller up top, two slide out shelves for laptop and small mixer. Standard 19" rack gear can be mounted below that with random stuff on the bottom (need to get a small bin for that still). Rides on 4 locking casters. Nothing fancy but overall I am happy with the results.

That looks incredible, is it particle board? We just used it for our built-ins. Couldn't believe how smoothly my ancient, dull table saw ripped the shelves to depth.

I got stencils and another round of sanding and spraying...



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[Art Shirk]

Wife couldn’t find a coffee table that she liked and fit the space. She also liked the concrete look so I built this fucking monster. Doesn’t look like much but that’s like 600 pounds.

She just wanted it unfinished looking and with some imperfections so I didn’t dye the concrete or do much with the base nor did I get rid of every air bubble.

Needed 6 guys to get it in the house from the garage and I had to get under the house before and stuck an additional post under there to prevent sag. You just can’t have a table like that and Rontele’s mom on the same floor.




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[~mikey b]

that thing is sweet

[J. Barron DeJong]

Looks great, but you know she’s going to ask you to move it so she can vacuum under there.

[Gcooker]

Baby toe breaker.... Nice table

[Art Shirk]

Looks great, but you know she’s going to ask you to move it so she can vacuum under there.

Oh I know. I’m going to have to get an engine jack stand.


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[Art Shirk]

Looks great, but you know she’s going to ask you to move it so she can vacuum under there.

Oh I know. I’m going to have to get an engine jack stand.


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[gaijin]

Welp, that’s dope as fuck. I love to see other people also build stuff that beg the question- “You sure about that, homie?”

Double awesome that you installed more vertical support under the floor.

Nothing like over-engineering cool shit.

Someone, sometime: “Why do you have a 6sq foot concrete slab in your living room?”

“Because it’s dope as fuck.”


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[Art Shirk]

Lol thanks gaijin. I get “are you sure about that” everyday and push right on through with my home projects. That bathroom I just did with the stuffed goose is another example. Can’t take this stuff too seriously.


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[Art Shirk]

It's been a while with this thread, so adding last weeks project - a floating bar behind the couch for the kids to eat at down in the game room.

First time working with deep pour epoxy and it took a few years off my life. Things I learned if you tackle something like this: If you are pouring over something like corks, remember they float and need to be glued down reallllly well. Also, you need to caulk what you are pouring the epoxy into just as well. Just do it twice. I missed the smallest of spots and was chasing a tiny pinhole leak for two days straight that almost ruined the floor and the post. Had to sand and repaint and use more acetone than I would have liked to breathe in. The epoxy was easy to use if you follow the directions exactly. Air bubbles are a pain but a paint stripping heat gun used sparingly took care of all but one tiny one. Keep it 12 inches away and don't overdo it.

The metal is just basic Home Depot angle iron and flat metal stock cut and rattle can painted. Used some red oak for the surround and plywood for the bottom. Tried gel urethane for the first time and it's awesome and easy to apply. No need for sanding between coats and can wipe on with a paper towel.

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So glad I can’t sleep and have taken another run through this thread. I have 10 years of corks and wanted to try something like this for our game room. Looks awesome and good info.


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