45 minutes well spent on a rainy day.
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This was a fun quick project- the room we’ve been keeping the cat box in had to be converted to a nursery, and had to get creative on finding a spot for it that was dog and (mostly) toddler proof.
Caulked all around the divider shelf and added three layers of rubber crush gasket to keep the smell away from the towels above. Not the prettiest but functions exactly as I’d hoped. And I’ll say, since making the cat box totally dog proof I’m realizing how much catour dog had been eating…
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Originally Posted by JoeStrummer
Last edited by gaijin; 01-17-2022 at 05:35 AM.
It's been a while with this thread, so adding last weeks project - a floating bar behind the couch for the kids to eat at down in the game room.
First time working with deep pour epoxy and it took a few years off my life. Things I learned if you tackle something like this: If you are pouring over something like corks, remember they float and need to be glued down reallllly well. Also, you need to caulk what you are pouring the epoxy into just as well. Just do it twice. I missed the smallest of spots and was chasing a tiny pinhole leak for two days straight that almost ruined the floor and the post. Had to sand and repaint and use more acetone than I would have liked to breathe in. The epoxy was easy to use if you follow the directions exactly. Air bubbles are a pain but a paint stripping heat gun used sparingly took care of all but one tiny one. Keep it 12 inches away and don't overdo it.
The metal is just basic Home Depot angle iron and flat metal stock cut and rattle can painted. Used some red oak for the surround and plywood for the bottom. Tried gel urethane for the first time and it's awesome and easy to apply. No need for sanding between coats and can wipe on with a paper towel.
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Love it, that’s awesome!
We had some neighbors build a house last year that looked straight through our hog wire fence into our living room. A friend has some leftover corten steel sheets from the siding of his house and gave them to me for a six pack. One set of dull electric shears and 5 hours later I've got a privacy fence that my dog can still look under.
And to cross-reference with the Home Remodel thread I did the fence myself years ago and used coated deck screws and have not had a single fastener stain or any other issue.
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Haven't checked in for a while. It's spring so I think I'm going to kick into gear for a while on the weekends
Big project was a walnut and maple coffee table to match the upstairs entertainment center, you'll see it in the background of a lot of photos. Designed to straddle the couch ottoman and hold controllers. Saw a video where a dude flocked the drawers and decided to try it out. Turned out way better than I expected.
Royal Blue Flock-it! Drawers. Turned out awesome.
Apparently this is called a waterfall edge. I did something trendy by accident.
Installed. Dog is just fine, wouldn't stay still.
Took some leftover butcherblock scrap from the old desk slab and turned it into some corner shelves to go up above the desk. Nothing really special and long overdue.
Made a batch of table saw snowflakes for xmas gifts. Fun project to make and great little gifts, but I also got to experience a kickback/explosion when one snowflake got caught between the blade and fence. I thought I was setup well enough with a spacer block that provided enough space for the cut flake to drop off, fall flat, and be clear of the fence, but I wasn't. I took some mahogany shrapnel to the face when the piece shattered. Very glad I was wearing safety glasses. Kickback is no joke. If anyone wants to talk about what happened, what went wrong, etc. I'm an open book here. Scariest thing I've ever seen or done on a table saw and I don't want anyone to repeat it.
1 small board yielded ~50 snowflakes of 3 different styles.
Quick sand and lacquer, add a ribbon to hang and you're done.
Finally made a wall mount for the pizza peel I made last summer.
Snuck in a scrap cutting board just to have an excuse to play with the bandsaw. Not pictured is a trio of chartuctrie boards for xmas gifts. Walnut, purpleheart and maple.
Next up is a small under desk bookcase.
Just burning up leftover wood since walnut is currently $13/bf. Really not looking forward to the next trip to the lumber yard, it's going to hurt.
Wait, how can we trust this guy^^^ He's clearly not DJSapp
nice work
i just assumed the coasters were laser cut at first look -- please share how they were created (not quite sure i understand the kickback scenario too)
Not laser or CNC. Take a board and cut it into 6 strips with a 30* bevel. You now have 6 diamond shaped strips. Adjust the blade and run those strips through the saw again to cut various notches to make your snowflake shape (think cutting paper snowflakes)
You can then arrange them into a snowflake shape by putting all the points together in the middle. Glue it together into a snowflake log, wait for it to dry, and slice the log like deli meat. Mine were a bit too small for coasters, but the idea could be upsized.
Kickback scenario is as follows:
I thought my spacer block was large enough, but when the cutoff snowflake shape spun a bit, it got wedged on the back half of the blade between the blade and the fence, whipped forward and shattered/exploded as it hit in front of the blade. I changed out the spacer block with a much larger block and it was fine after that.
Video that was the inspiration for the project:
Wait, how can we trust this guy^^^ He's clearly not DJSapp
"Made a batch of table saw snowflakes for xmas gifts. Fun project to make and great little gifts, but I also got to experience a kickback/explosion when one snowflake got caught between the blade and fence. I thought I was setup well enough with a spacer block that provided enough space for the cut flake to drop off, fall flat, and be clear of the fence, but I wasn't. I took some mahogany shrapnel to the face when the piece shattered. Very glad I was wearing safety glasses. Kickback is no joke. If anyone wants to talk about what happened, what went wrong, etc. I'm an open book here. Scariest thing I've ever seen or done on a table saw and I don't want anyone to repeat it."
My dad was not wearing safety glasses, the wood scooped out his right eye. They put the eye back in but it doesn't work that well anymore and he won't drive at night now.
Spacer block was set to create ~3/16" thick slices. Bump the stock against the spacer block then slide the miter gage forward. You could clamp the block directly to the table top and remove the fence entirely, but the fence makes small adjustments easy if you're not happy with thickness of the slice. I know I played with this a bit as one design was more fragile than the others and just couldn't be sliced really thin. Video shows what's happening here very well when you're cutting the first 6 pieces.
The blade was cranked most of the way up to cut it all at once. You could rotate the piece and take 2 cuts at it to get through it all. Losing another 1/2" to a sled bottom wasn't desirable.
When I did this my crosscut sled needed a new bottom. I blew the bottom out of it with some miters and dados and it wouldn't work.
Wait, how can we trust this guy^^^ He's clearly not DJSapp
yeah, sleds end up being a consumable after a while, don't they?
snowflakes look nice in the end!
As noted, cutting small items can be treacherous. Has anyone tried any of the following random thoughts on securing small pieces for cutting with table saw, chop saw, or by hand:
1) Double sided tape
2) Suction cuts (possibly coupled w/tape to block holes)
3) Vacuum suction (possibly coupled w/tape to block holes)
4) Chiseling out a block to match piece shape and inlay it inside while cutting, ie snowflake
5) Hot glue (pro tip it's good for 'clamping' w/wood glue or epoxy. Leave a spot for hot glue surrounded by the glue or epoxy)
6) Other half-baked ideas?
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
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l have often used double sided tape for plastic parts. I am not usually a fan of it on wood being that it can pull off wood grain on occasion. For production runs I have used a vacuum pump to hold parts in jigs. The complicated set up usually limits the procedure to large runs.
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