i need to safely adjust my marker m 900's on my urban/rock skis to a bigger boot. can u please just give me a couple steps to get throught this
thanks alot!
i need to safely adjust my marker m 900's on my urban/rock skis to a bigger boot. can u please just give me a couple steps to get throught this
thanks alot!
-I hate albany-
ns
bumpppp+
-I hate albany-
ns
obtain a pozi #3.
remove marker bindings.
drill new holes for solly\rossi bindings at your desired bsl and location
place glue in the holes
torque pozis by hand.
you are now safely adjusted
seriously though, there should be a little screw on the back of the heel peice.
unscrew it until your boot fits.
forward pressure is correct when the screw head is flush with the heel housing.
how do you adjust rossi axials (pivot heels)? same thing?
for these, yes
for these i dont know
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Preserving farness, nearness presences nearness in nearing that farness
What are urban/rock skis?
that's all i can think of, but i'm sure there's something else...
So, a remount?
There are four screws I see in the heel - all look like mount screws. I do not see any work screws, like my pivots that are similar to the top picture.
And I think urban/rock skis are skis for use in urban environments or where there may be rocks...
I don't care about that; I just want to figure out if I need a remount.
where the heels meet the poley things you can adjust them. like, look at the heel. look at where the blue part meets the black part. or just look at the structure and take a wild guess at how you could adjust them, because with no adjustment why the hell would they have a forward pressure gauge? here's another way. go at the heel DIN screw with your screwdriver, and move the screwdriver 2cm left. what's that? is it? could it be?
Okay, found it. Those damn things are buried in there. You have to access the head from the side because the 'poley thing' blocks it from the top.
And now it looks like these are cranked all the way in. Damn.
Be very careful uncocking the heel lug to access the forward pressure screws. This one move has cost countless tech's fingernails.
Use a #3 Posi, not a phillips, the arms are scribed so you can check that they are adjusted equally.
If they are buried and you are going smaller, you need to remount.
Checking forward pressure- with the boot in the binding the tab- white or yellow, behind the heel plate should reach the raised line on the plastic base plate. Make sure the tab is not under the heel plate, if it is, it will look like you have no FP, just twist the heel to 90 degrees to the side and return it to it's normal position, watching it seat inside the FP tab.
Additionally, the boot should snap "smartly" into the binding, and should not lift up. The heel lug should stand at about 60 degrees (that is a complete guess though I know the right angle when I see it.) The point of contention among many is how much elastic travel there should be.
I think very little, no more than 1-2mm (that is the top of the heel lug moving as you pull up on the boot.)
Word on the street last year is that Look/Rossi got worried about liability vis a vis proper FP adjustment.
Me- I tell em race stock binding, 8-18DIN no torque test, sign to that and have a great day.
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