Tips for Removing Screw with Stripped Head

**Jonathan S.** · 10-10-2006, 07:37 PM

Okay, so this might be exceedingly obvious to everyone except me, and even I was vaguely aware that this method existed, but still, the local ski shop had no idea, and the local hardware store that sold me the part didn't even know how to use it correctly, so here it is:
http://homerepair.about.com/od/inter...xtractor_4.htm
Oh, and be sure to get a T-handle, as vise grip pliers do not allow sufficient downward pressure.
(And don't believe a certain ski company when they say a 4.1mm bit will work just fine on their race plates that have a nearly 5mm metal top layer, especially when their own tech manual says to use a 4.5mm bit.)

**mc_roon** · 10-10-2006, 08:14 PM

i think that this would be completly unnessary unless you're retarted and stripped the screw completly. If there is any semblance of a head left, just do this:

take your long handled posidrive screwdriver and set it on the stripped screw, as best you can.
take a piece of plywood, place it on top of the screwdriver, and then sit on the wood. (maybe for some people here, the plywood is optional

)
take a long wrench, and twist the screwdriver with all your weight on it. Works like a charm

**birdman829** · 10-10-2006, 08:35 PM

Originally Posted by mc_roon

i think that this would be completly unnessary unless you're retarted and stripped the screw completly. If there is any semblance of a head left, just do this:

take your long handled posidrive screwdriver and set it on the stripped screw, as best you can.
take a piece of plywood, place it on top of the screwdriver, and then sit on the wood. (maybe for some people here, the plywood is optional

)
take a long wrench, and twist the screwdriver with all your weight on it. Works like a charm

HAHA I've done that before. I used a 2x6 instead of plywood, but same idea.

**Jonathan S.** · 10-10-2006, 08:51 PM

Interesting approach - thanks for the tip. (I never ceased to be amazed at the great back shop expertise on this forum!)
Next time I will have to try that first, although when a 5mm ski binding screw is wedged into a 4.1mm hole in a nearly 5mm thick chunk of metal . . . well, I'll just avoid ever getting into that situation again.

**Pow4Brains** · 10-10-2006, 09:23 PM

Holy fuggin deja vu!!!!! I was removing my bindings tonight and the head of the screw broke off (Freerides). I ended up having to use the exact tool to get it out (another common name for the tool is an “easy out”). The only problem with an easy out is the fact that it EXPANDS the metal while trying to back it out, essentially tightening it at the same time. You can reduce this effect by ensuring the hole you drill though the broken screw as large as possible.

**FNG** · 10-10-2006, 11:11 PM

Heating that bitch up with the torch also helps to ease them out.

**Deep Days** · 10-10-2006, 11:18 PM

Weird. We just took a ski in today for the same problem. I'd be curious to hear their method of removal. Chime in, marshal?

Squatch · 10-11-2006, 12:34 AM

I'm thinking he's just gonna use a sharp posidrive (it'll fit better, well enough to get some purchase).

**mountain_man** · 10-11-2006, 03:29 AM

Havent tried the plywood one yet. But shorely snapping off the head of a screw is a bad luck and a different situation where you may infact need an 'easy out'. Then thers always cutting a new flathead grove into the existing screw and then working form there.

**1wsguy** · 10-11-2006, 06:46 AM

Originally Posted by Jonathan S.

the local ski shop had no idea,
(And don't believe a certain ski company when they say a 4.1mm bit will work just fine on their race plates that have a nearly 5mm metal top layer, especially when their own tech manual says to use a 4.5mm bit.)

I'd look for another shop.Every shop should have some experience with stuck screws.

The next step after drilling through metal in skis, is running the proper tap in the holes. Hopefully that was mentioned in the tech manual.

4.5 ???? are you sure??? 3.5 and 4.1 (width) have been the "standards" for years.

**Jonathan S.** · 10-11-2006, 07:23 AM

I should have been more specific: the local ski shop had some ideas, but they were woefully inadequate for a 5mm-diameter screw with a stripped head stuck in a ~5mm-thick metal plate via a 4.1mm hole.
And yes, I tapped all the holes first, but a 4.1mm hole is only marginally inadequate for that thick a metal plate. Even with a 4.5mm bit, the screws have plenty of resistance during installation.

**yooper** · 10-11-2006, 07:57 AM

wsgy,
They did recommend 4.5mm bits for use on derbyflex/deflex plates. Sounds like this is similar to what Jonathan was mounting to.

**JTrue** · 10-11-2006, 08:37 AM

You could also use an impact screwdriver, unless you tottally stripped the screw. You put pressure with your hand on the way you want to turn the screw and hit the top of the impact driver with a hammer. Gets a stuck screw out almost every time. Especially useful on those pesky screws that hold a rotor onto a hub, but would most likely work in this situation.

**Jonathan S.** · 10-11-2006, 10:51 AM

Interesting - so like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H3274-.../dp/B0000DD4YI
http://www.brandsonsale.com/impact-screwdriver.html

What are some other typical uses for this?

**yooper** · 10-11-2006, 10:58 AM

I'd say he's talking about the second kind... not the air drive one.

**SponsoredByDuctTape** · 10-11-2006, 10:59 AM

Originally Posted by mountain_man

Then thers always cutting a new flathead grove into the existing screw and then working from there.

That's the way we always did it. If you have a Dremel (or something similar) it's relatively easy. Just cut a groove straight across the head of the screw, the way a flathead screw would look, only bigger. Make the groove big enough to fit a 3/4" screwdriver blade in there. Use the biggest flathead that will fit (you might have to buy one), apply pressure, twist.

P.S. The longer the screwdriver, the more torque you can apply (to a certain extent, of course).

**mtaylor** · 10-11-2006, 09:08 PM

you can drill the head off, then twist the screw out with pliers (i think)

**sfotex** · 10-11-2006, 09:31 PM

I have one of these:
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/12-Volt-...iver/index.htm

I wound up with it on accident (HoDe had a package with the impact driver + a regular driver and 2 batteries for less then the price of a driver, so I got the package) It works pretty good with binding screws, and with the right angle you can get your weight on it. I've used it to remove some screws stuck in a race plate and it worked like a champ.