
Originally Posted by
surfline.com
SPAC swells were on the rise for many exposures pulling in waist/chest high sets. Winds were gentle with fair conditions.
OUTLOOK: Waves on the rise as Ileana swell SELECTIVELLY works in with fun SPAC swell the main show for the masses. The weekend looks fun. Quieter waters next week.
FRIDAY: SSW (200) waves develop fully with fun surf. Exposures are 3-4/5ft, while standouts of OC pull in head high/slightly overhead sets. SSE(165) Ileana swell comes up selectively over the afternoon. These SELECT breaks develop head/overhead sets to a couple feet by evening.
SATURDAY: SSW waves slowly fade, but still plenty around. SSE tropical swell (165-170) peaks w/ head/overhead several feet at WIDE OPEN spots. ISOLATED "refracto" spots BIGGER. MOST the coast has trouble due to shadowing and the sharp approach angle.
SUNDAY: Fading combo but still good. Crossed up.
MONDAY: SSW swell fading as tropical waves ease too. Still fun.
TUESDAY: Modest reinforcing SSW(200) keeps waves going. Typically 2-3ft+ with chest/shoulder high waves at better OC exposures.
LOCAL FORECAST FOR:
SANTA BARBARA
Conditions: FRIDAY:
SSW(200) swell on the rise slightly as Ileana swell begins sneaking through gaps in the Channel Islands by evening.
Small for the most part, knee high or less, but by evening tropical swell should be evident.
Conditions: Light/variable early becoming WSW 10-12kt.
VENTURA
Conditions: FRIDAY:
SSW(200) swell peaks with South County doing best as the day wears on. Hurricane Ileana swell enters the picture by late afternoon, setting up for some good waves into the weekend.
Slow early on w/ low tide, but on the return, waist/chest/shoulder high sets emerge at better spots, by afternoon larger sets come through as tropical waves set in with near head high waves.
Conditions: Light/variable early becoming WSW 8-14kt.
NORTH LA COUNTY
Conditions: FRIDAY:
SSW(200) swell gives increasing waves as tropical SSE(165) selectively enters the picture over the afternoon.
A tad slow going early on the low tide. Expect waist/chest/shoulder high surf to develop as the tide returns and swell peaks.
Only very western portions are open to the sharp tropical swell angle, but breaks out there should begin seeing shoulder/head high sets by evening.
Conditions: Light/variable early becoming WSW 8-12kt.
SOUTH LA COUNTY
Conditions: FRIDAY:
SSW(200) swell on the rise with spots open becoming fun. Otherwise low WNW wind waves keep W facers weak.
Low tide is a problem early with dumpy/walled conditions. But, as the tide turns, exposures see more waist/chest high sets, breaks along the north half of the bay see the chest/shoulder high waves.
No tropical swell makes it in here, sorry.
Conditions: Light/variable early becoming WSW 10-12kt.
NORTH ORANGE COUNTY
Conditions: FRIDAY:
SSW(200) swell peaks with fun resluts. Tropical Ileana swell quickly rises over the afternoon.
A tad dumpy on the low tide early. Sets are waist/chest/shoulder high at exposures then, with some larger sets. As the tide turns and swell nears its peak, look for sets to get closer to head/slightly overhead.
When Ileana's sharply approaching SSE(165) waves come in over the afternoon, spots with exposures run head high to overhead a couple feet by evening if all works out. A few magnet spots may see larger waves as the day ages.
Conditions: Light/variable(trendingSE) early becoming WSW 10-12kt+.
SOUTH ORANGE COUNTY
Conditions: FRIDAY:
SSW(200) swell peaks with fun resluts. Tropical Ileana swell rises over the afternoon.
A tad dumpy on the low tide early. Sets are waist/chest/shoulder high at exposures then, with some larger sets. As the tide turns and swell nears its peak, look for sets to get closer to head/slightly overhead.
Ileana's sharply approaching SSE(165) waves mosly pass by over the afternoon, but a FEW spots with exposures run chest/slightly overhead by evening if all works out. The direction gets slightly better Saturday, like 170.
Points have the advantage as the SPAC swell focuses there for larger sets overhead a foot-two.
Conditions: Light/variable(trending SE) early becoming WSW 8-10kt.
NORTH SAN DIEGO
Conditions: FRIDAY:
SSW(200) swell peaks as Ileana waves mostly pass by over the afternoon.
A bit dumpy on the early low tide. Sets are waist/chest/shoulder at exposures then, with larger sets as the swell nears its peak and the tide turns. Top spots get into the head/slightly overhead range. Especially near O'side.
Conditions: Light/variable(trending SE) early becoming WSW 8-12kt.
SOUTH SAN DIEGO
Conditions: FRIDAY:
SSW(200) swell peaks as Ileana waves mostly pass by over the afternoon.
A bit dumpy on the early low tide. Sets are waist/chest at exposures then, with larger sets near head high as the swell nears its peak and the tide turns.
The tropical swell has almost no influence here, yet very south county south facers get these waves coming on.
Conditions: Light/variable(trending SE) early becoming WSW 8-12kt.
LONG RANGE:
EXTENDED FORECAST OUTLOOK
NPAC:High pressure continues over the NPAC. As a result, no groundswell, and only minimal NW wind swell is expected through the weekend.
These NW winds off Central Cal and Point Conception give a slight cross in the lines as they come through. Less than waist high at better exposures.
SPAC: Southern Hemisphere waves on the rise through the second half of the week, slowly fading over the weekend.
SSW(195-205) waves peak Friday, waist-chest/shoulder high sets are common for exposures. Standout spots, mainly in OC, hit head high/slightly overhead on sets. Waves hold/slowly fade Saturday. OC Points and reefs do best with slightly larger waves.
Look for surf to continue to gradually fade through the end of the weekend.
A more recent SPAC cyclone has put a modest SSW(200) swell en route for Tuesday/Wednesday. This gives 2-3/4ft surf for exposures, while focal spots, mainly OC manage larger sets as usual.
Favorably located cyclones have quieted down so we'll be watching. In light of that, only modest swells from these parts should be expected
TROPICS:Ileana set up SELECTIVELY good SSE waves building Friday afternoon into Saturday.
Ileana is roughly 375 miles WSW of the Baja tip and moving WNW (305)@7kt. She's on the weakening trend as she treks into cooler waters.
Last night she set a nice, but SELECTIVE lump arriving from a steep SSE(165)approach Friday afternoon. These waves run head high to a couple feet overhead for DIRECT exposures by Saturday, though we see a steady rise Friday afternoon. A few breaks, see BIGGER waves due to heavy refraction.
Prime locations are North OC, Southern Ventura, etc.
The sharp approach angle lends to smaller influence for spots shadowed and not facing that direction. San Diego would be an example of a loser from this swell.
These waves slowly ease Sunday.
Another cluster of clouds is being monitored for development S of Acapulco. Stay tuned.
Check out HURRICANETRAK for the latest NHC advisories and other tropical forecasting tools.
Our next forecast update here will be Friday afternoon at 5 PM.
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