This conversation has sprung up in conversations in buried in other threads, and based on folks posting, thought it deserved its own. Maybe it already exists, and if so, happy to move these thoughts to the right place. Mainly, just wanted to share the results of my own experimentations over the years and hear what other folks are experiencing too, as it really helps get folks mounted mounted in the right place the first time you drill a pair of skis.
None of these thoughts are intended to be presented "right" or dogma, just some observations. Hopefully folks with REAL biomechaincal insights can correct any of my purely anecdotal observations with real facts - I know on the race side, there is alot of hard science here that I am not across. Ideally others can share their experiences too.
A little background
- grew up skiing 20*+ forward lean boots from as long as I can remember, going back to the orange Tecnica TNT boots. More often than not with spoilers in the cuff to take up space and jack the boots forward more
- Started skiing "more modern" lean angle boots about 12 years ago with the Tecnica R9.8 (I believe it was still 16* cuff angle, with a 2.5* spoiler).
- Switched to Dobermann 98mm last and ~14* cuff angle, still with a 2.5* spoiler 3-4 years ago and pulled the spoiler mid season this year. It was a noticeable performance gain for my far less athletic mid 40's dad-bod self compared to a setup my far more fit early 30's self could easily ski hard all day with.
- Have some 12.5* boots enroute to experiment with.
How ski shape relates to mount
- Firstly, fore-aft balance is really important, and obviously imbalance gets exacerbated in variable/punchy/grabby snow.
- For hardpack-based skis, I like to generally be mounted near the center of the sidecut to balance the turnshape on firm snow, but interesting behaviour does existing when you are not super close to the ski's waist.
- Pintails (ie sidecut much further back than the mount) really like to carve DOWN the fall lineopposed to coming accross the fall line. For those on the FL113, this is where that behaviour comes from (the mount is ~12cm in front of the center of sidecut), so it is important to use the correct amount of taper and large turn radii to match the ski's behaviour.
- I find <5cm variance of mount to ski waist to be subtle on snow for skis with a decent amount of taper/rocker. For more conventionally shaped skis with less taper, the smaller the sweet spot since the tips/tails hook up more aggressively.
How my mount positions started to evolve.
- OG skis paired with 20*+ boots generally corresponded to -15 to -17 mounts (!!!) and even "progressive" skis the the 1st gen Gotamas had -13cm lines.
- About 10-12 years ago, coinciding with the R9.8 boots and probably my first <20* boots, my preferred mounts all of a sudden became came to the -10.5 to -12.5 to maintain balance in punchy snow.
- Most recently, with the move to the 14* (no spoiler) setup, I am all of a sudden moving mount points (that I know and loved) 1 to 1.5cm forward.
Observations from playing with it this season so far
- Been skiing with and without spoiler in my cuff and various demo bindings with different deltas this season
- I loosely correlate ~2-3* cuff angle change to ~1cm to 1.5cm of mount correction to maintain balance
- I find ~5mm binding delta changes to feel similar to a ~5mm of mount correction - ie higher toe effectively reduces your cuff angle and a lower toe effectively increases your cuff angle.
A Few Early Conclusions
- its alot easier to add spoilers than make a boot more upright
- I hate skiing in demo bindings, haha
- I am really digging more neutral boots and incrementally more forward mounts than I ever could have imagined, but at least for me, they needed to go hand in hand.
- Binding delta may not be obvious, and plenty of folks are nervous to pull toes and remount, but if you feel like you missed your ideal mount point by a little bit too far forward, adding a 5mm shim could help. Shims/screws are available at many shops for many toes.
Very curious if others have noticed and experimented with this is any meaningful way in a freeride setting.
**Note - there is not a real defined WAY to measure cuff angle, since it is a complex shape, not a straight cylinder. Therefore, finding cuff angles can be hard and the numbers out there are approximations. So everything mentioned above carries the "YMMV" and all of that.
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