Yep. That’s exactly how my bindings are set. The third picture (where I have the indentations on the heel lug circled) is analogous to halliday’s pic but from the top down.
Here’s how the binding looks with the boot fully clicked in:
I posted the previous photos to show how the heel piece digs in to lugs when the ejecting the boot.
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My apologies for the late response. I’ve got BF inserts on my setup and the correct size screws for the toe piece are 16mm flat head screws.
Just to confirm: If I mount skis w/ pivots and decide I want to castify them at a later date, I can do that w/ the conversion kit and reuse the original pivot holes right?
what's orange and looks good on hippies?
fire
rails are for trains
If I had a dollar for every time capitalism was blamed for problems caused by the government I'd be a rich fat film maker in a baseball hat.
www.theguideshut.ca
Finally, after seeing Waveshello's images and a film in which a skier uses Tecnica 0Gs on CASTs, I thought there must be a problem on my side.
I've got some very old Pivots, with stop-ski that are flimsy. In fact, on the workbench, when I engaged the binding, the back of the sole didn't touch the heel plate. There was still a gap and the dildo was unable to act normally. It's as if friction between the Vibram and the surface of the stop-ski prevented the boot from going to the bottom. I know, it sounds crazy and dumb. When I put the skis on in the snow, the binding snaps as expected. Voilà
Last edited by lesssismore; 01-16-2025 at 03:29 AM.
Your problem could be at the toe? I'm using the cast 5355 AFDs for touring boots, it has a leas stack height than the Alpine AFD. I can get these boots into an alpine AFD pivot, but the extra sole height at the toe levers the binding toe piece up further than normal. I'm thinking that could be why your heels weren't fully depressing your brakes until you stood on them.
I am seing your point. But I am using the right CAST Touring AFD with my 0G. When the boot is locked, there is a < 1mm gap between the AFD and the Vibram. My bindings need to be engaged with some weight to compress properly the stop-ski.
I don't have this issue with Cochise or Salomon Shift Pro 130 and those old Pivot.
Could you just glue a 1mm spacer on the underside of the afd?
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What's the ramp angle / delta with a CAST v2 Pivot ? Is it the same as a regular pivot or even flatter / negative ? Is the GW CAST v2 AFD the same as the normal P15 AFD ? I'm used to the STH2 WTR (6mm delta) and usually I think I don't like too flat ramps, but it's been quite some time since I tried. For touring I like the ATK R/FR (11.5 mm delta but measured differently than on alpine bindings of course). Also, is the toe higher (thicker) with the touring AFD, so you get a flatter / negative delta ?
https://alpinelogic.jp/en-en/product...2-15-pre-order - CAST 2 updated to pivot 2 + new color black metal
Nice. Hopefully these toe pieces don’t break
What's breaking on the toes? The cast pedestal?
Yeah I haven’t seen any issues with my own or online - what’s up with the toes?
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Tech toes. Broke after ~1000 meters of climbing
What part of the tech toe? Mine have been fine after ~20000m of climbing, something to watch for though.
Same here - maybe not quite as much as fullstop but I have a fair amount of use with no significant issues. The plastic toe lever seems like an obvious point of weakness, but its held up fine so far.
Did CAST warranty it?
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I've seen the metal L shaped bracket that slides onto the plastic baseplate snap once, but I think that was user error as much as a CAST Problem and one pre-production athlete version from last year sheared a pin on their tech toe. Cast took care of both problems with no questions asked.
My 2.0 toe broke at the insertion point of the pin into the arm. They were from the 1st run last year and had a only 10-12K on them. CAST sent me new “improved” toes. I would post a picture of the break, just imagine the arm sheared at 3 and 9 o’clock at the pin. Unfortunately I haven’t got out on the new toes because I’m laid up coming off of knee surgery.
Harvest the ride.
Same thing happened to mine.
Overall I’m not too stoked on 2.0. I had zero issues with 1.0, and while I understand their reasons for making the mounting easier, the actual use of 1.0 was better for me.
The fact that it broke is primarily just annoying, I’m sure I’ll be taken care of - allthough it’s closing in on two weeks since I contacted the retailer [emoji1745]
That sucks, I hope mine continue to hold up. I’d try reaching out directly to cast if the retailer doesn’t make it right - Ive always had good experiences with those guys
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If your retailer is not getting back to you after two weeks, go around them and contact CAST directly. I work in this world and CAST responds within 3/5 days almost every time I have to send them a message. They are good folks.
Ditto, complete a warranty claim with CAST directly. They will fix you up within 3 days.
Harvest the ride.
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