Steep and Scary Ski Mountaineering, Traverses and Expeditions Thread

[zion zig zag]

My Irvis Hybrids we're balling up pretty badly yesterday. Anyone have experience/a cure

Attachment 490385

Looks like they are balling only on the cord portion? Maybe try waxing that with some snoseal or something?

[Yukonrider]

Looks like they are balling only on the cord portion? Maybe try waxing that with some snoseal or something?

Yes they were balling on the cords, and the balls grew big enough they added notable weight, and were keeping the spikes from gripping snow. The pic was an afterthought after I had taken them off, I had to knock the balls off quite a few times.

Maybe some skin wax or something?

[Thesystemsplit]

This is pretty much what I researched. To follow up, what do people recommend for an ultralight ropebag for easy deployment and storage?

I used this(my rad didnt come with one, it only comes with the kit)
https://seatosummit.com/products/the...YaAuO1EALw_wcB

then I punched 2 grommets in the bottom to tie the rope through

[abcdethan]

I used this(my rad didnt come with one, it only comes with the kit)
https://seatosummit.com/products/the...YaAuO1EALw_wcB

then I punched 2 grommets in the bottom to tie the rope through

I did the same with the same bag! minus the grommets, I just cut holes and reinforced with tenacious tape.

[Cocximus]

What does the collective think about using a prusik on rad line without a munter or other belay device when cutting cornices or doing a ski cut?

[Tjaardbreeuwer]

What does the collective think about using a prusik on rad line without a munter or other belay device when cutting cornices or doing a ski cut?

I would say: why? Why not tie or clip in, and have your partner belay you? If you use a Prussik to self belay, you will have the rest of the rope lying around your ski edges. Plus, you still need to use 1, maybe even 2, hands to adjust it.
Being belayed just seems a lot easier, as well as safer. Am I missing something here?

[Cocximus]

Good question. Lots of cornice entrances here have a semi-static anchor. I usually prefer to self belay.

[mrkbrnblm]

Good question. Lots of cornice entrances here have a semi-static anchor. I usually prefer to self belay.

I think the requirements for a cornice vs a ski cut are different… a ski cut is, by definition, dynamic and requires that you move across the slope. I’d rather do that with someone else belaying me. Self-belaying is a lot to faf with while you’re skiing across a slope and trying to see if things will move. Cornice is a better case for self-belay. But… in the event that the cornice breaks, and you fall down the slope, you’re now in the awkward position of having to essentially rope solo back out. Seems easier to have someone else worry about the belay while you wallow and climb out or disconnect and go down.

I would not trust a Prussik on a rad line to take a dynamic fall like in the case of a cornice collapse, even if using a Beal Jammie or something that’s supposedly gonna hold in a 6mm line. I also wouldn’t trust a munter or super munter that isn’t backed up by a third hand. I think you want the climber/skiing focused on the climbing /probing the edge/preparing for a fall, and someone else focused on keeping a good belay.


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