Axe?

[east or bust]

^ Trails? Well, that’s pretty much what the Pulaski was designed for, and used for over many years.

IMHO a saw for everything other than splitting.

I've had an Estwing Camp ax for many years, it's perfect for that job. I mainly use it for splitting kindling but it's versatile and indestructible.

I’d rather carry a Silky or a folding bow saw for clearing trails. However, if it’s big downed trees an axe is great for limbing before bucking with a saw, powered or hand.


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Why would you want an axe for clearing trails?
Round here the Silky Bigboy is the go-to tool. Gets all but the biggest trees and we come back with a chainsaw for those. I Voile strap it to my top tube.
Sometimes I'll carry my 18V 8" chainsaw if I'm going for a hike specifically to clear trail but if riding it's the bigboy

Yeah, are we talking Lumbersexual Usage or are you actually trying to get a job done? If you are looking for a curated heirloom, ask your local logger. Other wise, skill and maintenance are far more important than brand. I like a wooded handle but I've got a fiberglass handled Collins maul and hatchet for camp.

City Boys love to cut wood!

But yeah, cordless chainsaws, Silky's, Sven's for trailwork, snowmobiling and back of the truck. Stihl and log splitter for firewood work.

I rode a trail outside town over the weekend that doesn't see nearly as much traffic as most of our trails, and apparently not as much maintenance either. There were a bunch of large trees down, larger than I'd want to tackle with a folding saw. Chainsaw is out of the equation due to my living situation and usage rate.

It's not a backcountry trail (something you'd have to ride a considerable distance to access) so the easiest solution to me would be to hike in and spend a day getting everything done. A pulaski would be convenient as there are several drainage issues I'd like to correct but the first thing on my list is getting the trees cleared so ride arounds don't get established.

I like the idea of limbing first and chopping into manageable pieces.

[neufox47]

When was the last time you chopped a tree down with an axe and why?

Sent from my Turbo 850 Flatbrimed Highhorse

Cutting trees down in an area I wasn’t supposed to be cutting trees down in to turn a super tight, not fun, 400’ vertical section into eastern tree skiing bliss. A chainsaw would have been too loud. [emoji16]

[riser4]

Cutting trees down in an area I wasn’t supposed to be cutting trees down in to turn a super tight, not fun, 400’ vertical section into eastern tree skiing bliss. A chainsaw would have been too loud. [emoji16]

Doing maintenance again on Jail Bird Chute on Big Jay?

[Grange]

Just out of college, 4 friends and me moved into a rental house with a fireplace. The property manager had been clearing trees on another property and offered us some firewood, which we were happy to accept. He showed up with a pickup full of rounds, a sledgehammer, and a wedge, saying "I'm not going to give you an axe because you'll cut your foot off." (he thought we were a bunch of wussy college boys, which TBH wasn't too far off the mark)

We all scoffed, but about a week later, I wacked my foot with the sledgehammer so it seems Jerry knew what he was talking about. Not sure if this story has a point. Maybe "don't forget that a sledgehammer and wedge can be useful too"

I've never hit my foot with my maul, but I do wear steel toed shoes when splitting or cutting wood because I'm aware that one swing can end badly.

[Cocximus]

I have a fiskars bow saw to complement the folding saw. The Milwaukee sawzall also works well for a tool that's not really made for cutting wood.

[adrenalated]

I rode a trail outside town over the weekend that doesn't see nearly as much traffic as most of our trails, and apparently not as much maintenance either. There were a bunch of large trees down, larger than I'd want to tackle with a folding saw. Chainsaw is out of the equation due to my living situation and usage rate.

It's not a backcountry trail (something you'd have to ride a considerable distance to access) so the easiest solution to me would be to hike in and spend a day getting everything done. A pulaski would be convenient as there are several drainage issues I'd like to correct but the first thing on my list is getting the trees cleared so ride arounds don't get established.

I like the idea of limbing first and chopping into manageable pieces.

If they're too big to get with a folding saw trying to cut them with an axe sounds way more miserable. Like it or not, chainsaw is the correct tool.

Cutting trees down in an area I wasn’t supposed to be cutting trees down in to turn a super tight, not fun, 400’ vertical section into eastern tree skiing bliss. A chainsaw would have been too loud. [emoji16]

Battery saws are not loud

[riser4]

its the only bodyspray worth getting….




fact.

Female repellent. If that's your thing.

[bio-smear]

I produced an article a few years ago on axes when I was somewhat obsessed. My buddy from MT is a first class woodsman and authored it. Funny dude.

https://backcountrypilot.org/knowled...xes-for-pilots

[dunfree]

If they're too big to get with a folding saw trying to cut them with an axe sounds way more miserable. Like it or not, chainsaw is the correct tool.

You’ve got too be moving into serious tree size when a pita turns into miserable physically with a sharp axe. A time and energy sink for sure

[Brownski]

I've had an Estwing Camp ax for many years, it's perfect for that job. I mainly use it for splitting kindling but it's versatile and indestructible.

Thank you- glad I’m not the only Estwing guy here. Best axes and hammers around.

[toast2266]

Cutting trees down in an area I wasn’t supposed to be cutting trees down in to turn a super tight, not fun, 400’ vertical section into eastern tree skiing bliss. A chainsaw would have been too loud. [emoji16]

If you're a little patient, you can get dewalt/milwaukee electric chainsaws for $350-$400. Soooo much better for discrete thinning operations.

[The Reverend Floater]

If you're a little patient, you can get dewalt/milwaukee electric chainsaws for $350-$400. Soooo much better for discrete thinning operations.

Seconded. Had to do some "pruning" on a FS lease and the Milwaukee saw was money.

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[east or bust]

Where does one even buy a quality ("premium") axe these days. Seems like there are no stores in all of eastern ID or western WY where you can walk in and buy something that isn't a POS (Fiskars and Estwing excluded).

[toast2266]

A place like murdochs sometimes has some ok stuff. But mostly you've just gotta buy online.

[zion zig zag]

East or bust: how far into that trail are the trees that need to be cut? I’ve got a chainsaw I could loan you, or I can go with you next spring and we can cut them out. I’m always looking for new trails anyway.

[zion zig zag]

Also, did the OP ever say whet he needed an axe for? Or are we all just throwing out our favorite axe? To me an axe is just a consumable tool, I don’t make my living with it and I don’t care if I chip the blade hitting a rock while cutting out a tree root so I don’t need anything nice.

And several people have mentioned blades sharp enough to shave with. Axe blades shouldn’t be that sharp unless you’re making YouTube videos showing how easily it’ll cut through a sheet of paper. It’s a tool you swing at hard things and a blade that sharp will fold over and be dull after two swings.

[Foggy_Goggles]

I can and have cleared a lot of trail. I can't imaging an axe being the tool for the job. If the Silky can't get it, a Sven is a cool option https://svensaw.com/

I used to take the Stihl 018 if needed. We've got same trails that where hit my a blowdown and took a long time to get open. Now I've got an M18 chainsaw that I prefer. The little cordless hatchets look rad but i have't used one.

So if you want an axe in your life, got for it. But for trail work, there are probably better options.

[subtle plague]

Female repellent. If that's your thing.

If it keeps those pesky hot chics at bay that keep popping up in my bed room, I'll get it. I need my sleep.

Riser 3 would have needed that. He was suffering from Sex fatigue.

[dookeyXXX]

Just chiming in on the Fiskar tip.

I had never chopped wood until I moved to Tahoe, what with having been a desk bound journalist by trade before becoming a minimum wage earning cheap ski bum who heats his house all winter with a wood stove.

I started out with a couple of hand-me-down “vintage” axes inherited from my grandfather and broke the handles pretty quick.

I have gone through a couple of plastic handled axes and sledges, too (I think they were Collins?).

I bought the Fiskar because it looked tough and hella heavy metal (mine is all charcoal matte black).

I’ve had the Fiskar for more than 10 years with no signs of it breaking or wearing down. I do need to sharpen the blade though, but it’s still slicing through half rounds pretty well even though it’s dull as all get-out.

[bodywhomper]

I try to keep my two splitting axes sharp, but not razor sharp - I’m not honing the blades. Less concerned about the Pulaski, but my older kid will occasionally get both edges in good condition. I like the hatchet to be pretty sharp.

Wedges: do the expensive twist wedges mushroom?

My experience has always been with the substantially cheaper wedges that seem to mushroom pretty fast using my larger fiskar splitting axe or my 12# maul. The mushrooming seems sketchy as shit.

[garyfromterrace]

If it keeps those pesky hot chics at bay that keep popping up in my bed room, I'll get it. I need my sleep.

I know, right!

[neufox47]

If you're a little patient, you can get dewalt/milwaukee electric chainsaws for $350-$400. Soooo much better for discrete thinning operations.

This was like 10 years ago. The statute of limitations is well past!

I will say nothings better for taking down a 3-4” tree than an axe.

A properly sharpened ax to a 15 degree edge is not going to fold over or get dull quickly. Old time forest workers went into the woods with a razor sharp axe.

[toast2266]

This was like 10 years ago. The statute of limitations is well past!

I will say nothings better for taking down a 3-4” tree than an axe.

A properly sharpened ax to a 15 degree edge is not going to fold over or get dull quickly. Old time forest workers went into the woods with a razor sharp axe.

It's not too late! Trees grow back.

[Hood26]

Wedges: do the expensive twist wedges mushroom?

Mine hasn’t. I haven’t used it a ton in the last two years, but it is showing very little wear with the use it has gotten.

[dunfree]

I try to keep my two splitting axes sharp, but not razor sharp - I’m not honing the blades. Less concerned about the Pulaski, but my older kid will occasionally get both edges in good condition. I like the hatchet to be pretty sharp.

Wedges: do the expensive twist wedges mushroom?

My experience has always been with the substantially cheaper wedges that seem to mushroom pretty fast using my larger fiskar splitting axe or my 12# maul. The mushrooming seems sketchy as shit.

grind off the mushrooming part so it’s straight, otherwise it can split off, but they are just dumb consumables. Split out hardwood works too to keep things apart

a busted axe handle can be replaced, handles can be cheap. A 4-1 rasp might be all you need to fit it.

svensaws suck, bow saws are way better

axe bits should be a bit harder than the eye/butt and not fold over. Unless you are doing woodcraft things razor sharp is probably pointless