Best tuning kit

[J. Barron DeJong]

Ultimately the "why" is just experience from trial and error.

I tried with a regular sharpie at first and it just doesn't lay down ink on the polished metal edge as well nor does it adhere perfectly (acted like a dry erase marker where repeated applications just pushed the previous layers around).

The "Pro" version is designed to work in wet/oily/dusty conditions and just needs one pass with the chisel tip to make the edge nice and dark. Let it set for 30 seconds to dry out and let 'er rip.

Good enough. I’ve tried regular sharpie before and it definitely had room for improving, so I guess I should get myself a Pro.

[Lvovsky]

Wow, that's pretty cool.

PSA: use stones much more than files. I'm a big fan of a proper edge guide and an Arkansas pocket stone. The ceramic and that 8 in 1 is probably good too. If you're not racing, you don't want to be removing a lot of metal.

What stones? Brand, size please!

Like these? https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/S...MaAnZBEALw_wcB

[Lvovsky]

Use a light touch, look to see that the surface of the edge is uniform (one color) to tell when you're done. It might take me 10-12 passes if I'm changing a 3 degree side edge bevel to 2 degrees. The machine also sometimes leaves a sharp transition near the tip which I like to smooth out, and I like to get rid of the rotary marks left by the spinning stone.

I have a few project pairs that I can practice light touch with panzer. Been cautious with files. Sharpie is a great help to keep my enthusiasm in check.

Need to improve sidewall removal game. I maybe pushing on the tools too much rather than letting the tool do its job.

Hate rotary marks especially after skis been tune by a “reputable shop”.

And when no sidewall has been removed at all after being tuned by a “professional”. But what do I know.

[gregL]

I have a few project pairs that I can practice light touch with panzer. Been cautious with files. Sharpie is a great help to keep my enthusiasm in check.

Need to improve sidewall removal game. I maybe pushing on the tools too much rather than letting the tool do its job.

Hate rotary marks especially after skis been tune by a “reputable shop”.

And when no sidewall has been removed at all after being tuned by a “professional”. But what do I know.

Too much pressure on the file and you can't feel if the guide is still flat to the base - concentrate on keeping that accurate and just "drag" the file.

[J. Barron DeJong]

I just used a short panzer to increase the side bevel this afternoon. If you’re comfortable with controlling the file guide (keeping it flat on the base, not accidentally rolling the file over the edge) then you shouldn’t worry. It’s an aggressive file, but it’s still not taking off very much material each pass.

But, if you do mess up with the guide it’s going to damage the edge more significantly that a finer file or a stone would.

Also, regarding removing sidewall, using a panzer in a high angle guide (I think Beast makes a 7 degree, or you can rig up some sort of shim to make due with a regular 2 or 3 degree) takes much less technique/skill than using a sidewall planer.