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Thread: The Atomic Ski Boot Thread

  1. #176
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Sun Valley, ID
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    2,635
    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    Both versions have the same strap-function, strength, size, etc.

    The only difference is in the type of cam buckle: Hawx version uses a Quick-Release cam, Redster version uses a traditional push-to-release cam.
    Do you know where the break is for the S/M and M/L size?

  2. #177
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Altenmarkt, Austria
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaliBrit View Post
    Do you know where the break is for the S/M and M/L size?
    Generally, if you are in a 26 or bigger go with the M/L. 26 and smaller go with the S/M. The "M" position results in the same strap. If you think you are really on the border and anxiety takes a hold, go with the bigger M/L and you can always punch holes in it and make it smaller. You can't grow the smaller one.

  3. #178
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
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    5,488
    Put me in the "sad Backland XTD is not an Ultra fit" camp. Maybe some day.... I know that you said that most people ski XTDs primarily inbounds. Including myself, I know five skiers with them, and all but one use them exclusively for touring. I guess I should find a backup pair since I don't think there is a comparable boot out there now or coming soon.

  4. #179
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    Dec 2009
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    Sun Valley, ID
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    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    Generally, if you are in a 26 or bigger go with the M/L. 26 and smaller go with the S/M. The "M" position results in the same strap. If you think you are really on the border and anxiety takes a hold, go with the bigger M/L and you can always punch holes in it and make it smaller. You can't grow the smaller one.
    Much appreciated.

  5. #180
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
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    5,094

    The Atomic Ski Boot Thread

    I love my Professional Hawx Strap, and my Professional Hawx Liner,
    I just need to find an Atomic shell that works on my Lange shaped foot.
    Last edited by Dee Hubbs; 02-08-2023 at 11:21 PM.

  6. #181
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Philly, PA
    Posts
    1,888
    Do the Mimic Pro liners stiffen up a boot after molding ? Curious how these compare to my usual Intuition ProWrap liners

  7. #182
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Altenmarkt, Austria
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    521
    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman View Post
    Do the Mimic Pro liners stiffen up a boot after molding ? Curious how these compare to my usual Intuition ProWrap liners
    Not a noticeable amount of "stiffness", but way more responsiveness, stability and precision.

  8. #183
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    9
    How similar are the boot boards on the club sport and the team issue?

    I am currently in the TI and would love to get a Shockstopper boot board for it.

    Also, how does the fit compare between the two boots? I would consider buying a pair of the CS if I could get them tight enough in the forefoot. The TI is pretty comfy for me right now in the stock liner. I will probably have to go with a mimic, intuition, zip to tighten up my current fit (maybe should have gone sti with a plug liner.)

  9. #184
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    Jun 2010
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    Altenmarkt, Austria
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    521
    Quote Originally Posted by vanhanbr View Post
    How similar are the boot boards on the club sport and the team issue?

    I am currently in the TI and would love to get a Shockstopper boot board for it.

    Also, how does the fit compare between the two boots? I would consider buying a pair of the CS if I could get them tight enough in the forefoot. The TI is pretty comfy for me right now in the stock liner. I will probably have to go with a mimic, intuition, zip to tighten up my current fit (maybe should have gone sti with a plug liner.)
    Boot boards are not compatible, very different contours on the inside of the shell floor.

    The CS has a roomier fit overall, but "roomy" isn't how I would characterize the fit of the CS in general. The TI last is literally 20 years old and usually needs a lot of work for people to get comfy and the CS last is about two generations in the future in terms of anatomic shaping. Despite their forefoot width only being 1mm different on paper, they are substantially different in a lot of areas.

    If you are looking for a tighter/lower volume fit, the STI is definitely the way to go.

  10. #185
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    1,486
    Quote Originally Posted by NBABUCKS1 View Post
    super jong question onk - what is the point of that piece of rubber above the toe below the toe buckle?

    also interested in new mimic liners for my 19/20 xtd primes
    And does the screw holding it in stick out to the point of making a permanent dent in the liner for anyone else? My GF has a big problem with hers. Solutions?

  11. #186
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    Jun 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer30 View Post
    And does the screw holding it in stick out to the point of making a permanent dent in the liner for anyone else? My GF has a big problem with hers. Solutions?
    What boot does your gf have? We don't use screws to secure our tip sealing, it's usually just in there and held by the overlap.

  12. #187
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    1,486
    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    What boot does your gf have? We don't use screws to secure our tip sealing, it's usually just in there and held by the overlap.
    Hawx 95s ultra

  13. #188
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Posts
    20
    Sort of a random question, but I noticed the strap on this hawx looks like a new construction and it got me thinking. What is the material that ski boot straps are normally made out of? Some kind of fabric with a super thick TPU or vinyl coating that allows molding and printing. It's almost ubiquitous across ski boots and I've even got a pair of mountaineering boots here with a strap of the same material but I've never seen it anywhere else...

    Anyway the new strap on the hawx looks cool. It reminds me of modern slim climbing harnesses with the shaped webbing construction.

  14. #189
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    Jun 2010
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    Altenmarkt, Austria
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer30 View Post
    Hawx 95s ultra
    If it's a first gen Hawx Ultra, there was a rivet holding the metal part over the tip sealing, but it should be quite out of the way. But if for some reason there is some excess rivet head sticking into her liner, that is some a boot fitter can easily grind away.

  15. #190
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Altenmarkt, Austria
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    521
    Quote Originally Posted by skimeow View Post
    Sort of a random question, but I noticed the strap on this hawx looks like a new construction and it got me thinking. What is the material that ski boot straps are normally made out of? Some kind of fabric with a super thick TPU or vinyl coating that allows molding and printing. It's almost ubiquitous across ski boots and I've even got a pair of mountaineering boots here with a strap of the same material but I've never seen it anywhere else...

    Anyway the new strap on the hawx looks cool. It reminds me of modern slim climbing harnesses with the shaped webbing construction.
    Lots of power straps (especially ones that have embossed/debossed effects to them) are made from PVC, which is terrible stuff. We are moving away from PVCs and either using PUs or fabrics, like what is on the new Hawx Ultra XTD. The fabrics are super strong, just like leg loop on a harness.

  16. #191
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    1,486
    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    If it's a first gen Hawx Ultra, there was a rivet holding the metal part over the tip sealing, but it should be quite out of the way. But if for some reason there is some excess rivet head sticking into her liner, that is some a boot fitter can easily grind away.
    Cool, that’s kinda what I was thinking. I tried taping over it to reduce the pin point pressure but that didn’t work for her. She is a bit of princess however 🙄🤣🤣🤣

  17. #192
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Posts
    20
    Thanks for being so generous with your time and expertise here ONK.

    Question for you, I'm in a hawx ultra 130 25.5. I have a couple chronic hot spots that have always required some form of punch/stretch or heat molding of shell. When I first got these boots I tried skiing them out of the box because the ankle hold was so good and I didn't want to lose it. But alas my hotspots were unbearable so I got both the mimic liner and the shell heat molded by my bootfitter and now I have the best fit I've ever had in a boot. However, I feel that the stiffness has softened a touch. Is this common?

  18. #193
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Europe
    Posts
    133
    Do new XTD liners have eyelets? I like to tie my liners and then step into a shell.

  19. #194
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Altenmarkt, Austria
    Posts
    521
    Quote Originally Posted by Ninjax View Post
    Thanks for being so generous with your time and expertise here ONK.

    Question for you, I'm in a hawx ultra 130 25.5. I have a couple chronic hot spots that have always required some form of punch/stretch or heat molding of shell. When I first got these boots I tried skiing them out of the box because the ankle hold was so good and I didn't want to lose it. But alas my hotspots were unbearable so I got both the mimic liner and the shell heat molded by my bootfitter and now I have the best fit I've ever had in a boot. However, I feel that the stiffness has softened a touch. Is this common?
    Memory Fit is a great way to re-shape an entire shell & cuff, but it can lead to a slight drop in performance, either due to too much space being created or because the cuff pivots tend to get relocated (not sloppy or loose, just their position/orientation slightly changes). There's no degradation of the plastic or anything like that, so it doesn't lead to any quality or durability issues.

    For people who are laser-focused on skiing performance, I often recommend that skiers & fitters take a more traditional approach where individual spots are stretched/modified. It will take a little longer to get the fit to the right level, but it also ensures that not too much space is made or other unwanted changes occur.

  20. #195
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Altenmarkt, Austria
    Posts
    521
    Quote Originally Posted by Sashko View Post
    Do new XTD liners have eyelets? I like to tie my liners and then step into a shell.
    There are lace loops on the cuff, but not fully down to the toes. Should make jumping into the shell racer-style still ok. Just be mindful that you don't catch the heel flap on the inside of the shell when stepping in. You don't want to fold that over and go skiing.

  21. #196
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    2

    New vs old XTD

    Really appreciate this forum and the ability to ask Matt and other folks these questions. I had the first gen Ultra XTD 120 and it was the first boot ever that fit my smaller foot securely. Skied them out of the box (better than ever), but developed some sore spots on the bigger foot. Shop suggested heat molding, and that made the big foot perfect but the small foot a bit sloppy. Some C pads fixed this pretty well.
    Since then I’ve tried a couple other boots and learned I want a stiffer boot, but realized the Ultra is the fit for me.
    got the ‘23 XTD130 and felt the familiar snug fit at first, but on day 1 I was tightening them more than I would have on the old ones. Even wanted to try some heel/ankle padding as I felt I could lift my heel mor than in the older molded shells. They still ski great and are the correct size (little bit more than 1 cm shell fit and I have a low instep). My question is - will molding the Mimic liners help? I understand that heat molding won’t make anything tighter (don’t want to touch the shells as there are no sore spots), but would the contour feel more secure and the heel pocket better, or would I risk loosening the fit?
    BTW as an experiment, I put the old liners in the new shells, and they actually feel more locked in the heel. Wondering if this is because they have been molded, or if they are a bit higher volume?
    Thanks so much for any input!

  22. #197
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Altenmarkt, Austria
    Posts
    521
    Quote Originally Posted by northeastnorm View Post
    Really appreciate this forum and the ability to ask Matt and other folks these questions. I had the first gen Ultra XTD 120 and it was the first boot ever that fit my smaller foot securely. Skied them out of the box (better than ever), but developed some sore spots on the bigger foot. Shop suggested heat molding, and that made the big foot perfect but the small foot a bit sloppy. Some C pads fixed this pretty well.
    Since then I’ve tried a couple other boots and learned I want a stiffer boot, but realized the Ultra is the fit for me.
    got the ‘23 XTD130 and felt the familiar snug fit at first, but on day 1 I was tightening them more than I would have on the old ones. Even wanted to try some heel/ankle padding as I felt I could lift my heel mor than in the older molded shells. They still ski great and are the correct size (little bit more than 1 cm shell fit and I have a low instep). My question is - will molding the Mimic liners help? I understand that heat molding won’t make anything tighter (don’t want to touch the shells as there are no sore spots), but would the contour feel more secure and the heel pocket better, or would I risk loosening the fit?
    BTW as an experiment, I put the old liners in the new shells, and they actually feel more locked in the heel. Wondering if this is because they have been molded, or if they are a bit higher volume?
    Thanks so much for any input!
    When you say new "23 XTD 130" - are you referring to 23/24 Ultra XTD with BOA or the 22/23 Ultra XTD? Maybe post a pic of your old and new boots so we aren't guessing.

  23. #198
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    When you say new "23 XTD 130" - are you referring to 23/24 Ultra XTD with BOA or the 22/23 Ultra XTD? Maybe post a pic of your old and new boots so we aren't guessing.
    they are the 2012-2023 model (black and burgundy). Will try to figure out how to post a pic of the 2 boots.
    Thanks!

  24. #199
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    .
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    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    Memory Fit is a great way to re-shape an entire shell & cuff, but it can lead to a slight drop in performance, either due to too much space being created or because the cuff pivots tend to get relocated (not sloppy or loose, just their position/orientation slightly changes). There's no degradation of the plastic or anything like that, so it doesn't lead to any quality or durability issues.

    For people who are laser-focused on skiing performance, I often recommend that skiers & fitters take a more traditional approach where individual spots are stretched/modified. It will take a little longer to get the fit to the right level, but it also ensures that not too much space is made or other unwanted changes occur.
    Hey man I recently got into a pair of Ultra 130 S. Did the heat molding of the liner and the fit is perfect. However, on the right boot, when I am walking around, I keep getting a small but loud "click" where the back of the top cuff pivots/clicks over the bottom of the shell. Everything looks to be aligned. Is there a good way to fix this ?

  25. #200
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Altenmarkt, Austria
    Posts
    521
    Quote Originally Posted by ego7man View Post
    Hey man I recently got into a pair of Ultra 130 S. Did the heat molding of the liner and the fit is perfect. However, on the right boot, when I am walking around, I keep getting a small but loud "click" where the back of the top cuff pivots/clicks over the bottom of the shell. Everything looks to be aligned. Is there a good way to fix this ?
    I've chased a click like this before and found it to be the mold line of the overlap clicking over the other one. Pull the liner and run a finger along the shell overlap and you'll feel the mold line (a seam). Can you sand it down and should be fixed.

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