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Thread: The Atomic Ski Boot Thread

  1. #676
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Altenmarkt, Austria
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    I just sold a cs 110 to a 4’10” girl who is super light. No race back ground. She was concerned about blowing her ankle up they were so soft.

    I haven’t had my hands on any other CS boots but I was blown away at how light and thin they were. Not what I expected.

    Is the 130 significantly beefier? I thought I read Onenerdykid skis the 130 lower and 110 cuff.
    What size? Size 21 uses the junior cuff, which is much thinner than regular height cuff. FWIW - Arianna Tricomi skis a stock CS 110 (size 24).

    These boots will be quite thin at the overlap area, but going to over 9mm thick where it counts. It translates to a very solid boot but I never liked using the word "stiff" to describe it. "Stiff" is just the wrong word to use with these boots. Solid, stable, damp, planted, smooth, etc. are better adjectives for it.

    This boot uses a traditional PU-ether plastic, which at room temp feels about 20-30% softer than at -20°C. It will stiffen up considerably in the cold. But it also shows how much easier it is to put on boots that are made with heavier/thicker/softer PU rather than lighter/thinner/harder PU (i.e. Hawx Ultra).

    I ski the stock CS 130 when skiing a Redster ski and use the 110 cuff/130 shell combo for everything else. I switch my Professional liners between versions.

  2. #677
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    Jun 2010
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    Altenmarkt, Austria
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    Quote Originally Posted by oetk2 View Post
    CS felt lower volume than the RS140 when I tried them on YMMV
    I haven't put my foot into nor compared the lasts between a CS and Lange's 95mm RS 140. Compared to Lange's 97mm RS LV boots, the CS is lower over the instep and tighter at the rear half of the foot.

  3. #678
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    7,565
    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    I haven't put my foot into nor compared the lasts between a CS and Lange's 95mm RS 140. Compared to Lange's 97mm RS LV boots, the CS is lower over the instep and tighter at the rear half of the foot.
    I moved from a Lange RX 130LV (latest version before they were discontinued for the Shadow, which I believe used the same molds as an RS 130) to an RS 140 last year, and the 140 is significantly lower volume everywhere.

    Love the way the 140 skis. It is a good amount stiffer than the RX 130 (at least with my feet in them).

  4. #679
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
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    1,201
    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    What size? Size 21 uses the junior cuff, which is much thinner than regular height cuff. FWIW - Arianna Tricomi skis a stock CS 110 (size 24).

    These boots will be quite thin at the overlap area, but going to over 9mm thick where it counts. It translates to a very solid boot but I never liked using the word "stiff" to describe it. "Stiff" is just the wrong word to use with these boots. Solid, stable, damp, planted, smooth, etc. are better adjectives for it.

    This boot uses a traditional PU-ether plastic, which at room temp feels about 20-30% softer than at -20°C. It will stiffen up considerably in the cold. But it also shows how much easier it is to put on boots that are made with heavier/thicker/softer PU rather than lighter/thinner/harder PU (i.e. Hawx Ultra).

    I ski the stock CS 130 when skiing a Redster ski and use the 110 cuff/130 shell combo for everything else. I switch my Professional liners between versions.
    Awesome info thanks. Yes, it is a 21 so that makes sense with the cuff. She was complaining about the height, is there another cuff that can bolt on that is taller?

    It’s also been surprisingly warm in Golden (-5/-10C) so that could def be swaying things.

    Will keep you posted on the development. I’m sure she is going to be stoked on the fit and that was the biggest concern when looking for new boots.

  5. #680
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    Jun 2008
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    Golden
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    Has anyone ever seen an Ultra 130 RS or a CS 130 in a size 24? I have never seen one available to order or in person. Were they an option for Canada?

  6. #681
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    Jun 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    Awesome info thanks. Yes, it is a 21 so that makes sense with the cuff. She was complaining about the height, is there another cuff that can bolt on that is taller?

    It’s also been surprisingly warm in Golden (-5/-10C) so that could def be swaying things.

    Will keep you posted on the development. I’m sure she is going to be stoked on the fit and that was the biggest concern when looking for new boots.
    Right now, that's the only cuff that will fit on that shell. It's not until next year that we'll have 21s with regular height cuffs (and low cuff options too).

  7. #682
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    Jun 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    Has anyone ever seen an Ultra 130 RS or a CS 130 in a size 24? I have never seen one available to order or in person. Were they an option for Canada?
    Yes, but only for pre-order. The book-end sizes generally aren't produced beyond after pre-season orders are fulfilled.

  8. #683
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    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    It's not until next year that we'll have 21s with regular height cuffs (and low cuff options too).
    I've got a couple people waiting . . .

  9. #684
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    Europe
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    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    Yes, but only for pre-order. The book-end sizes generally aren't produced beyond after pre-season orders are fulfilled.
    Is it the same for Redster CS series?
    And how to make a preorder in Europe?

  10. #685
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    Jun 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sashko View Post
    Is it the same for Redster CS series?
    And how to make a preorder in Europe?
    Golden is a retailer and I'm referring to the process by which retailers order all of their product for the coming year.

    If you as a skier want to preorder a product, this is possible to do with your local retailer before the product lands in their store. If you know of a product coming for next year and want to make sure your specific retailer orders it, then you would speak with them and ask them to get it for you. If it is a product they will normally stock, there are usually no/not many strings attached. If it is a product the retailer will not stock, then you are most likely committed to buying it or face restocking fees.

  11. #686
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    Jun 2008
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    Golden
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    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    What size? Size 21 uses the junior cuff, which is much thinner than regular height cuff. FWIW - Arianna Tricomi skis a stock CS 110 (size 24).

    These boots will be quite thin at the overlap area, but going to over 9mm thick where it counts. It translates to a very solid boot but I never liked using the word "stiff" to describe it. "Stiff" is just the wrong word to use with these boots. Solid, stable, damp, planted, smooth, etc. are better adjectives for it.

    This boot uses a traditional PU-ether plastic, which at room temp feels about 20-30% softer than at -20°C. It will stiffen up considerably in the cold. But it also shows how much easier it is to put on boots that are made with heavier/thicker/softer PU rather than lighter/thinner/harder PU (i.e. Hawx Ultra).

    I ski the stock CS 130 when skiing a Redster ski and use the 110 cuff/130 shell combo for everything else. I switch my Professional liners between versions.
    She’s not willing to ski the cs110. Dangerously soft.

    It’s a shame the 21 doesn’t have the same construction as any other sizes. It’s a bit misleading. I don’t really care if Tricoumi skis the 110 in a 24 if it’s a different boot.

  12. #687
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    I'm about your son's size and have had success with the Hawx Ultra RS 130 (running a Redster CS Pro liner and HV Redster tongue and dual Pro strap and the flex is good for me). This is probably about the stiffest package you can put together with the Ultra last using stock parts at present. Punching the upper part of the calcaneus worked fine on the RS, not so much on the XTD due to the walk mode nobs.

    As Golden says, stick with a riveted boot for comp skiing; I would also consider a Redster CS or Lange RS 130/140 with some stickier soles for booting to the start. The Shadow 130 LV feels soft to me, but they now have a Shadow 140 LV Pro that I tried on this week and would also consider.
    We ended up going to Skookum Bike and Ski in Revelstoke on Day1 of our holiday trip. They have a great selection of boots and knowledgeable boot fitters. Narrowed it down to the Hawx Ultra RS 130 and the Tecnica Mach 1 LV 130. The Hawx felt better around the instep and no issues in the heel. Did a liner mold, skied two days, then a heated shell mold to get more room in toe box and medial malleolus. Skied another day, then went back to punch a little more around medial malleolus. My son said they feel great now, and the heat shell mold made the toe box amazing. He has 7 days on them and no issues with heel bone spur acting up. Great boot! Both boot fitters we worked with said they almost always have good success with the Hawx line up.

    Two questions:
    1. The boot came with one screw in the lower hole of the lean adjustment plate and a spacer in the top hole. If we put the extra screw in the upper hole does is actually change the flex rating or just the initial stiffness?

    2. Size screws are used for the strap mounting and buckles (the black hex screws). We installed a booster strap and one of the strap screws is longer than the other and is poking into the liner (the original strap is a thicker material than the booster)

  13. #688
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    Jun 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Afg View Post
    Two questions:
    1. The boot came with one screw in the lower hole of the lean adjustment plate and a spacer in the top hole. If we put the extra screw in the upper hole does is actually change the flex rating or just the initial stiffness?

    2. Size screws are used for the strap mounting and buckles (the black hex screws). We installed a booster strap and one of the strap screws is longer than the other and is poking into the liner (the original strap is a thicker material than the booster)
    1. Adding the top/2nd screw makes the boot feel more responsive & direct during the first few degrees of flex. It does not turn the boot into a 140. Only drill a hole once you have figured out the cuff alignment. Trying to do cuff alignment after the hole is drilled/screw added will not be successful.

    2. Take the boot down to your local hardware store and find a non-countersunk screw that doesn't poke out. My guess is something like 5-6mm in length should work. Be sure to add some thread lock to the screw.

  14. #689
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Golden
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    Props on the new professional dual strap that has a normal cam and not the quick release. Love it. No more undoing the strap when I pull down my pants gaiters. I also like the two piece design. Makes for easy centering.

  15. #690
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    Jun 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    Props on the new professional dual strap that has a normal cam and not the quick release. Love it. No more undoing the strap when I pull down my pants gaiters. I also like the two piece design. Makes for easy centering.
    Tried and true just works well sometimes haha. Stoked you like it.

    The adjustable sizing (two piece construction) is a little more complicated/expensive to produce but it just makes more sense.

  16. #691
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    May 2022
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    Truckee
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    1,366
    Quote Originally Posted by Afg View Post
    We ended up going to Skookum Bike and Ski in Revelstoke on Day1 of our holiday trip. They have a great selection of boots and knowledgeable boot fitters. Narrowed it down to the Hawx Ultra RS 130 and the Tecnica Mach 1 LV 130. The Hawx felt better around the instep and no issues in the heel. Did a liner mold, skied two days, then a heated shell mold to get more room in toe box and medial malleolus. Skied another day, then went back to punch a little more around medial malleolus. My son said they feel great now, and the heat shell mold made the toe box amazing. He has 7 days on them and no issues with heel bone spur acting up. Great boot! Both boot fitters we worked with said they almost always have good success with the Hawx line up.

    Two questions:
    1. The boot came with one screw in the lower hole of the lean adjustment plate and a spacer in the top hole. If we put the extra screw in the upper hole does is actually change the flex rating or just the initial stiffness?

    2. Size screws are used for the strap mounting and buckles (the black hex screws). We installed a booster strap and one of the strap screws is longer than the other and is poking into the liner (the original strap is a thicker material than the booster)
    I love that boot. 1) Depends upon who you ask, but the general consensus is that it will stiffen the boot. It will certainly change how it flexes. Add the bolt if he thinks it's too soft. 2) I did the same thing. I moved my bolts over from my Hawx XTD. Run into a boot shop, they should have some shorter bolts. You can cut the bolts down (I do it all the time), but it takes some finesse and tools (dremmel and bench grinder).

  17. #692
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    Jan 2025
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    9
    Some charts I'm seeing show the backland ultimate and backland having 1cm different bsl for the same shell size... Is this correct?

  18. #693
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    Jun 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillip.moneyhun@gmail.com View Post
    Some charts I'm seeing show the backland ultimate and backland having 1cm different bsl for the same shell size... Is this correct?
    That is correct. With the Ultimate, to really save weight, we drop the shell down a size and use a thinner liner to offset the length difference. Buy based on mondopoint, not on BSL.

  19. #694
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Almost Mountains
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    2,079
    Speaking of the professional dual strap, is AZE002118 the correct application for the Hawx XTD at this point? Mine seem to want to push the elastic portion of the dual strap on top of the upper buckle, but I haven't spent a lot of time trying to rearrange them, so it's quite possibly I just got the install not quite right.

  20. #695
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    Jun 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum View Post
    Speaking of the professional dual strap, is AZE002118 the correct application for the Hawx XTD at this point? Mine seem to want to push the elastic portion of the dual strap on top of the upper buckle, but I haven't spent a lot of time trying to rearrange them, so it's quite possibly I just got the install not quite right.
    Depending on the leg/cuff combo, the Professional Dual Strap can sometimes not vibe with the cuff all that great (it works best with thicker, race boot cuffs). Because of that, we made the 45mm Professional Strap (AZE002062 short, AZE002120 long), which is basically all of the adjustable suspension tech from the Dual version in a "mono" version. Reach out to me via PM if you can't get the Dual Strap right.

  21. #696
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
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    22,506
    if anyone is looking for some light atomics, the "Exclusive deal" boots are all samples I assume and $300 CND new. Mens in 26.5 and ladies/youth in 24.5

    https://www.mec.ca/en/search?q=Atomi...s_en_price_asc

    If anyone needs a re-ship I can help


  22. #697
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Posts
    145
    Will post a version of this in the "WTF" thread, but trying to debug a new-to-me pair of boots.

    2023 130 XTD Hawx are killing my inner ankles on Day 2, the the point I had to stop after a few hours of skiing. Allegedly they've only got a few days on them—never been molded or heated, but look like they have a few hard charging days on them (scraped liner at the pivot point, some plastic scrapes on the outside).

    Liner feels plush/thick. I have a custom footbed that felt great on my 120 XTDs.

    What's my move? Seems like I could: Wait a few more days, try adding shims on top of my footbed, mold liner, mold liner + shells.


    Some notes:
    - I had the XTD 120s from 2019 before this, same size.
    - I did shell molding and liner molding before actually skiing them much because I was brand new to boots.
    - Even after molding, my ankles were uncomfortable.
    - Shims, and later a custom footbed, made all of this better.
    - Professional bootfitter confirmed it was a good boot for my foot, and I'm a heavy pronator.

  23. #698
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    so feels bad on 130's and good on 120's ? Same size? same footbeds?

    What happens if you swap liners? put 120 liner (feels good?) in 130 shell?

    If that feels bad still then its the liner issue. maybe a stretch/mold on that? maybe its different material/thickness?

    Did you do any shell work to the 120's? (do the same to 130's?)


  24. #699
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    Jan 2022
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    145
    Correct. Same size, same footbeds. Though v1 XTD vs. v2. I ditched the liners on the 120s before confirming (stupid).

    Did shell mold on 120s, but feel like I should hold a couple days before trying that on 130s, yeah? (For the Atomic heads - if this is my only issue, when to do a punch vs. whole shell mold?)

  25. #700
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    Jun 2010
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    Which Hawx XTD? Ultra XTD or Prime XTD? This is important to know.

    Only stretch the shell if you don't have space between your ankle and the plastic (no liner in the shell).

    Heat mold the liner. It's meant to be heat molded for your ankle structure. You will not "break in" the Mimic material over time. Foam yes, but not Mimic. It is purposefully intended for you to have it molded to your anatomy.

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