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Thread: The Atomic Ski Boot Thread

  1. #426
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason4 View Post
    Will the Atomic Dual Strap fit on the XTD easily?
    The backlands or the Hawx? If the former, the holes line up quite nicely.

    Sent fra min LE2123 via Tapatalk

  2. #427
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
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    Tried on the Backland XTD Carbon 120 just for fun yesterday, and it is one of the best walking boots on the market. Not just one of the best walking beef boots, it walks better than the F1 LT, Zero G Peak, similar to the Dynafit Blacklight and Dalbello Quantum. The liner is phenomenal, walks amazing while still providing support. Where can I buy just the liner? I have no need for the boots right now since I already have plenty of touring boots that fit.

  3. #428
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    We wanted to make a boot with easier step in/out but also not get rid of a boot that a lot of skiers liked.
    About this. Picked up a pair of 22/23s, had the liners baked and soles made and went skiing. Skied very very very well, but; before baking they were tricking getting into and slightly painful getting out of. Now they're so tight (over the instep) getting into that I honestly were about to give up on the parking lot. Made good comedy for those around I guess.

    Boots were warm and nice at the time.

    Any tips? Currently at stock lean. More upright will help I guess, but getting a bit more forward lean was part of the wishlist.

    And; why on earth don't you make buckles a la Tecnica that stay out of my good damn way?

  4. #429
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    Mar 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benneke10 View Post
    Tried on the Backland XTD Carbon 120 just for fun yesterday, and it is one of the best walking boots on the market. Not just one of the best walking beef boots, it walks better than the F1 LT, Zero G Peak, similar to the Dynafit Blacklight and Dalbello Quantum. The liner is phenomenal, walks amazing while still providing support. Where can I buy just the liner? I have no need for the boots right now since I already have plenty of touring boots that fit.
    https://www.atomic.com/en-no/shop-em...172&size=21854

    Dunno if the link works for you, as it's Atomic's Norwegian webshop, but worth a try.


    Sent fra min LE2123 via Tapatalk

  5. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by arild View Post
    https://www.atomic.com/en-no/shop-em...172&size=21854

    Dunno if the link works for you, as it's Atomic's Norwegian webshop, but worth a try.


    Sent fra min LE2123 via Tapatalk
    The US site does not seem to let consumers buy them directly. I'll try an Atomic dealer. The liners are so damn good.

  6. #431
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Fairhaven
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    Quote Originally Posted by arild View Post
    The backlands or the Hawx? If the former, the holes line up quite nicely.

    Sent fra min LE2123 via Tapatalk
    Sorry, meant the Backland XTD, I know it's made to fit the Hawx XTD but I was hoping you'd tried that combo since you are already swapping straps around and have the Backland XTDs and the dual straps in hand.

  7. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason4 View Post
    Sorry, meant the Backland XTD, I know it's made to fit the Hawx XTD but I was hoping you'd tried that combo since you are already swapping straps around and have the Backland XTDs and the dual straps in hand.
    Haven't tried mounting them, but as said, looks like it'd fit directly without mods. I had to punch a new hole in the straps for the Raptors, no big deal.

    Sent fra min LE2123 via Tapatalk

  8. #433
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
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    5
    I was wondering are the liner dimensions identical in Hawx Ultra XTD v1 (2019/2020 with lighter and more breathable liner) and Hawk Ultra XTD v2 Boa and if yes would those still be close to identical after both have been MemoryFit heat molded?

    I kind of like those old liners (that was replaced for more solid ones for newer models) and would see some use for those on some rando missions but I don’t really know if it makes any sense. Would I then just get ”loose” feeling and too much space between my foot, liner and shell of the boot?

  9. #434
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    Mar 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by arild View Post
    Haven't tried mounting them, but as said, looks like it'd fit directly without mods. I had to punch a new hole in the straps for the Raptors, no big deal.

    Sent fra min LE2123 via Tapatalk
    I was wrong.i had to punch a new hole in the strap for the backlands. My bad!

    Sent fra min LE2123 via Tapatalk

  10. #435
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    Jun 2008
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    I personally liked the original liner. There wasn’t much to pack out, the heel cut pads were dense, and they walked well.

    I would say that they were quite short compared to the new ones. A lot of my toe issues in that old Hawx was because of the liner. I’m sure the rest of the liner isn’t identical but it would definitely work to swap. Keep in mind the v2 shell is roomier.

  11. #436
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    Emerald City
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    I got the new platinum mimic xtd liner to put in my '21 xtd boots and already have a great fit, wondering if getting them heat molded is important/worthwhile to really dial things in?

  12. #437
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Altenmarkt, Austria
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    Quote Originally Posted by eSock View Post
    I got the new platinum mimic xtd liner to put in my '21 xtd boots and already have a great fit, wondering if getting them heat molded is important/worthwhile to really dial things in?
    If things feel great, there's no necessity to change it.

    But if you do get them heat molded, it's important that the shop follows our Mimic fitting process and doesn't just treat them like any old liner. Normal hot air stacks don't remold the Mimic material in the ankle & heel areas- in order to reshape this material, the liner needs to go into our oven, along with a few other procedural steps. When this is done, the Mimic material will reshape to your anatomy and harden in that shape.

  13. #438
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    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
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    Just got a set of hawx xtd professional dual straps. I despise the hawx xtd version’s cam strap toggle and would trade for anyone who has a Hawx professional dual strap that has a normal cam strap. To me it takes a great invention (cam strap) and makes it overly complicated, slower to use, and means you have to roll up your entire cuff to adjust the tension rather than just pushing a button through your pants.

    The concept of the dual strap is awesome though. I’m a big fan of stiff power straps and wearing my strap high on the liner. The dual strap stays nice and high and the lock out Velcro allows you to make the strap stiff like a rigid strap, but with a touch of elasticity to keep you nimble. I find booster straps way to soft.

    I still have to figure out mounting. The small on my 24 ZeroG with Zipfit doesn’t wrap far enough. I have to shift it over 3/4” so it will involve melting new holes. no big deal. It’s probably because of how much cork I’ve put in and my “driver plates” I put on my tongues.

    I love how wide (side to side)the strap is but it doesn’t play well with boot heaters and I’ll have to mount those on the calf pull strap on the liner.

    If anyone has a standard cam strap version that is like new, I’ll trade. For real.

  14. #439
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    126
    Just picked up the ultra xtd Boas - stoked! A couple questions:

    1. When adjusting the forward lean, the instructions in the box indicate that a wedge shaped piece either needs to be removed for the 17* or added for the 13*. Which is it? I am looking to set these up as 17*.
    2. The red plastic parts on the buckles snapped on the first use - they appear to be some sort of spacer between the metal buckle and the spring. Are these aesthetic only or should I be replacing the buckles?

  15. #440
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    126
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  16. #441
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Altenmarkt, Austria
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    Quote Originally Posted by tupp_ View Post
    Just picked up the ultra xtd Boas - stoked! A couple questions:

    1. When adjusting the forward lean, the instructions in the box indicate that a wedge shaped piece either needs to be removed for the 17* or added for the 13*. Which is it? I am looking to set these up as 17*.
    2. The red plastic parts on the buckles snapped on the first use - they appear to be some sort of spacer between the metal buckle and the spring. Are these aesthetic only or should I be replacing the buckles?
    1. The boot booklet is general info, it's not model specific. Those forward lean instructions are for fixed cuff boots with Power Shift. With your boot, just loosen the screws and position the ski/walk mechanism in the setting you want.

    2. We had some brittle plastic in the buckles of the first batch of boots, looks like your boot is one of those. Check your PMs - I'll get you sorted with new buckles.

  17. #442
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    921
    What is the difference between the womens Hawx Ultra 115 RS and Ultra 115 S? I think I'm missing it on Atomic's site. TIA

    https://www.atomic.com/en-us/shop/pr...ml#color=36924

    https://www.atomic.com/en-us/shop/pr...ml#color=36204

  18. #443
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Altenmarkt, Austria
    Posts
    521
    Quote Originally Posted by chicken feathers View Post
    What is the difference between the womens Hawx Ultra 115 RS and Ultra 115 S? I think I'm missing it on Atomic's site. TIA

    https://www.atomic.com/en-us/shop/pr...ml#color=36924

    https://www.atomic.com/en-us/shop/pr...ml#color=36204
    115 RS has a stiffer, more responsive cuff. This is the "classic" 115-flex boot that we have had in our range for a few years. The above linked 115 S is a new configuration.

    No other changes.

  19. #444
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    idaho panhandle!
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    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    What is the thickness of these boards and can they be ground down?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  20. #445
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    126
    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    1. The boot booklet is general info, it's not model specific. Those forward lean instructions are for fixed cuff boots with Power Shift. With your boot, just loosen the screws and position the ski/walk mechanism in the setting you want.

    2. We had some brittle plastic in the buckles of the first batch of boots, looks like your boot is one of those. Check your PMs - I'll get you sorted with new buckles.
    Thanks! This is much appreciated! Will post more once I've had time in the boots. Great experience so far.

  21. #446
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    Jun 2010
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    Altenmarkt, Austria
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2FUNKY View Post
    What is the thickness of these boards and can they be ground down?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    About 7mm in the toe, thicker in the heel depending on which model you're asking about.

    You can grind about 2mm from a boot board before you risk going too far down into the shell. That's a good rule of thumb for almost any removable boot board from any brand.

  22. #447
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    Nov 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by onenerdykid View Post
    About 7mm in the toe, thicker in the heel depending on which model you're asking about.

    You can grind about 2mm from a boot board before you risk going too far down into the shell. That's a good rule of thumb for almost any removable boot board from any brand.
    Ok, so standard thickness. I need to grind 2mm to match my stock board to help with my high instep. Wasn’t sure if these were thicker sue to the rubber. The one I need is the 1808. My stock board broke the other day.


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  23. #448
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    NorCal
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    618
    Just want to give a big shoutout to onenerdykid for being on here helping people sort out their boot issues. It’s pretty rad having him as such a legitimate resource. Thanks again for the guidance onenerdykid!!!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  24. #449
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Northeast
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    32
    Quote Originally Posted by 2FUNKY View Post
    Ok, so standard thickness. I need to grind 2mm to match my stock board to help with my high instep. Wasn’t sure if these were thicker sue to the rubber. The one I need is the 1808. My stock board broke the other day.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

    Test it out first before grinding. I found that I didn’t have to grind the shock absorbing ones, even though I had to grind my stock boards about 1mm. Maybe because the rubber compresses slightly?

  25. #450
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    Nov 2006
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    idaho panhandle!
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlecO View Post
    Test it out first before grinding. I found that I didn’t have to grind the shock absorbing ones, even though I had to grind my stock boards about 1mm. Maybe because the rubber compresses slightly?
    Interesting. Will do. Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

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