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Thread: Bootfitters, powertool for grinding?

  1. #1
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    Bootfitters, powertool for grinding?

    I bought two 1" ball burrs off amazon, one fine and one coarse. Recommended rpm is between 10-25000, my drill can do 1250. So, which tool do I need?

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  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    +1

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Thomas View Post
    +1
    Yep. Every bootfitter I know has a Foredom. You can save a bit of money by getting the plastic pedal, which is fine for home use. Most shops use the short handle but I actually like the long one.

  5. #5
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    Jeebus, quick consensus right there! Thanks!

    I'd much rather have a boot pro work on my boots, but that's not an option where I live. Can the Foredom be ordered with 220-240V yurp standards?

    A bit spendy, but I see grownup dremel like tools cost about the same here (bosch,milwaukee,etc).


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  6. #6
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    I haven't used it for boot fitting purposes but I went with this as a cheaper version of the Foredom in a home jewelry studio and have been happy.

  7. #7
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    i know of one bootfitter who has moved on from foredom to an air powered grinder. So if you have a big enough air compressor already, it may be a lot cheaper.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnfarmer View Post
    i know of one bootfitter who has moved on from foredom to an air powered grinder. So if you have a big enough air compressor already, it may be a lot cheaper.
    Hah, thought about it, the tools themselves are stupid cheap, but ultimately I figured the wife would probably kill me if I dragged an air compressor into the house.

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  9. #9
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    didnt some boot fitter post that they punch not grind because ( except for plug boots ) the plastic is not thick enough ??
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    didnt some boot fitter post that they punch not grind because ( except for plug boots ) the plastic is not thick enough ??
    Yeah, GregL:

    ”Going forward, most modern boot designs that aren't race plugs should be punched for heel spurs rather than ground (that goes for other parts of modern recreational boots, too - the reason they are so much lighter is because the plastic is thinner). Real race boots can take some grinding and often punch better after you remove a bit of material.”

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnfarmer View Post
    i know of one bootfitter who has moved on from foredom to an air powered grinder. So if you have a big enough air compressor already, it may be a lot cheaper.
    Most of these look much bigger than the Foredom tool, and probably are a lot more challenging to accurately get inside shells, especially small ones.

    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    didnt some boot fitter post that they punch not grind because ( except for plug boots ) the plastic is not thick enough ??
    I know bootfitters who shy away from grinding certain shell materials because they suck to grind, more so than how thick the material is.

  12. #12
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    Dobermanns in this case. Called the national reps for some guidance re: punching vs grinding just for some light pressure relief, got told if I wasn't a complete idiot, there's material in spades to grind, so just taking their word for it.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    didnt some boot fitter post that they punch not grind because ( except for plug boots ) the plastic is not thick enough ??
    Yeah, I only grind about 3-4 boots a year, but one or two are mine so it's important. More common uses of the Foredom are grinding off rivets that hold buckles, grinding the top of the boot box where it holds the rubber water seal, etc. For extremely tall instep/surgery issues I've sometimes removed the front of the bootboard completely and had to grind the nubs that hold it in place.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by arild View Post
    Dobermanns in this case. Called the national reps for some guidance re: punching vs grinding just for some light pressure relief, got told if I wasn't a complete idiot, there's material in spades to grind, so just taking their word for it.

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    In real race boots, it often helps to grind the shell thinner before punching so it actually moves.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by One (+) Sentence View Post
    I know bootfitters who shy away from grinding certain shell materials because they suck to grind, more so than how thick the material is.
    Early Pebax and Triax sucked to grind as they liquified with only a little friction, making big rivulets you had to remove with a sharpened chisel. New Pebax shells are too thin to grind, and few people are using Triax for shells anymore.

  16. #16
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    H43T or H44T handpiece?

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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by arild View Post
    H43T or H44T handpiece?

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    I like the 44 for most work and just use the 43 for the toebox since I cant fit the 44. If you’re going for just 1 maybe the 43 is best.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    I like the 44 for most work and just use the 43 for the toebox since I cant fit the 44. If you’re going for just 1 maybe the 43 is best.
    Cheers. Out f stock at the moment, but I'll wait.

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  19. #19
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    I gotcher power tool for grinding right here, baby
    Quote Originally Posted by digitaldeath View Post
    Here’s the dumbest person on tgr
    "What are you trying to say? I'm crazy? When I went to your ski schools, I went on your church trips, I went to your alpine race-training facilities? So how can you say I'm crazy?!"

  20. #20
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    I bought a flex shaft for my dremel tool for $35 and can use it if needed for one offs etc. Great add on for dremel tool.

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