3D Printing for outdoor nerds

[MottN]

Has anyone printed their own insoles? There's a website that lets you design orthotics based off an STL of your foot, which you can use an iPhone to scan if you don't have your own 3d scanner. Would be curious to see how well PLA holds up to skiing, but also just general footwear uses.
http://gensole.com/

Yeah this is pretty cool, Has anyone got this to work?
The webapp doesn't seem to load for me.

[Lord Thomas]

Can someone just print one of the ski centerline finding tools for me? I need - can pay

[rfconroy]

Can someone just print one of the ski centerline finding tools for me? I need - can pay

Shoot me a PM - ill get it sorted out

[Core Shot]

Can someone just print one of the ski centerline finding tools for me? I need - can pay

Anyone have a link to the download for that?

[rfconroy]

Anyone have a link to the download for that?

thingiverse.com/thing:4744005

[Dee Hubbs]

Post Christmas purchase will be a 3D printer.
I think I want to go with Prusa, do I buy the Mini+ ($430) or the i3 MK3S+ ($800)?

[AlpiNord]

Post Christmas purchase will be a 3D printer.
I think I want to go with Prusa, do I buy the Mini+ ($430) or the i3 MK3S+ ($800)?

Get the red one.[emoji6]

I have both and would say get the MK3S+ due to larger plater and height. The mini interface is nicer, however and I’m not sure why the MK3S+ doesn’t have it.

The $800 is for the partial assembled one, correct? FYI it takes a bit of effort and a bunch of time to put it together. I got a second one assembled that made life a lot easier. It was around $1200 delivered ($150 or so shipping and added textured plater) and arrived within a week of ordering due to being in stock vs not on the 1st one.

The site has the assemble instructions you can check out to see if it’s something you want to tackle. The mini was straight forward and quick by comparison.


Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums

[TheSumoChris]

working on a ski pole beer holder as we speak!

[MottN]

Post Christmas purchase will be a 3D printer.
I think I want to go with Prusa, do I buy the Mini+ ($430) or the i3 MK3S+ ($800)?

I would strongly recommend looking at Bambu lab's printers. I have an X1C, but the P1P is also a good lower cost option. The speed will blow anything else out of the water right now (save maybe Vorons). Its really a generational leap forward.

The prusa mini has a poor hot end design that causes heat creep and I've had trouble with some brands of PLA just not printing while others work just fine.

[MottN]

Here is a speed comparison between the mini and the X1C, both on 4mm nozzle, 2mm layer height. 5.5hrs vs 2hrs for the same parts, walls, infill, etc.
That's on standard speed for the Bambu, ludicrous mode is 166% of standard speed, so the time would be considerably lower than the 2hrs.

[rfconroy]

Post Christmas purchase will be a 3D printer.
I think I want to go with Prusa, do I buy the Mini+ ($430) or the i3 MK3S+ ($800)?

Depends on what you're going to print.
I would say 95% of everything I print could fit on the Mini, but having used both extensively the MKIII is slightly more reliable.

If you are ok with tinkering and want to save a buck, you could also look at the Ender 3 from Creality which will set you back ~$200 for the full setup, and tons of community setup/documentation.

I would shy away from the Bamboo Labs for now, since its such a new machine. They just started shipping their first printer, and I would expect some growing pains.

[AlpiNord]

FTR, another difference between the Prusa Mini & MK3S+, is handling power fluctuations and outages. Today’s snowstorm has caused lots of short outages and restarts. The MK3S+ picks up where it left off while the Mini stops the job. Moving the z-arm is required to remove the partially completed job before restarting the job from scratch.


Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums

[ezgzy]

What plastic would you all recommend for a binding shim? I only have access to a PLA printer directly, but would be willing to pay to get nylon parts printed if it would make a big difference in durability.

[rfconroy]

I've been printing them in ABS but ABS, ASA, PC, PC/ABS or PETG should all work. Basically you're looking for high impact strength, but yield or flex modulus on something that thin and compressed is irrelevant.

[AlpiNord]

What plastic would you all recommend for a binding shim? I only have access to a PLA printer directly, but would be willing to pay to get nylon parts printed if it would make a big difference in durability.

What do you mean 'PLA printer'? Can't you use other plastic filaments?

[phil_dirt]

ASA is nice with UV resistance, especially for something that will see a lot of time outdoors.

[ezgzy]

What do you mean 'PLA printer'? Can't you use other plastic filaments?

Bad word choice, I have access to a printer through my school but the only material they keep on hand for student use is PLA. I can buy my own material and provide it to them but the cost is comparable to outsourcing the print

[AlpiNord]

Bad word choice, I have access to a printer through my school but the only material they keep on hand for student use is PLA. I can buy my own material and provide it to them but the cost is comparable to outsourcing the print

But then you'll have lots of material to make other prints.

[AlpiNord]

http://www.slidewright.com/3d_print_files/IMG_1848.jpeg[/IMG]



Prusa MK3 gcode

Rubbermaid Cap stl file.

[rfconroy]

http://www.slidewright.com% 2F3d_print_files/IMG_1848.jpeg[/IMG]



Prusa MK3 gcode

Rubbermaid Cap stl file.[/QUOTE]




Shiiiiiit, cant tell you how many times ive done shit like this with my printer.

for those who dont want, or have the know how on how to model threads - I typically will find the appropriate thread/screw size on McMaster Carr, download the STEP or solidworks file, and build off of it...unless of course they have the actual thing im looking for.

This is really good for NPT style threads in particular

[AlpiNord]

Shiiiiiit, cant tell you how many times ive done shit like this with my printer.

for those who dont want, or have the know how on how to model threads - I typically will find the appropriate thread/screw size on McMaster Carr, download the STEP or solidworks file, and build off of it...unless of course they have the actual thing im looking for.

This is really good for NPT style threads in particular

Good tip on the source files for threads. That's an area I want to get dialed in on.

[ezgzy]

Here’s the shim i’ve been working on: last one in PLA before i get a friend to print me one off in a more suitable plastic.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[KillerMonkey]

Anybody have a ski holder with a similar design to these? https://www.gravitygrabber.com/

Going to need at least 6 of these to hold my quiver up but havent able to find $200 in the couch. Definitely looks like a 3d printed design.

[rfconroy]

Anybody have a ski holder with a similar design to these? https://www.gravitygrabber.com/

Going to need at least 6 of these to hold my quiver up but havent able to find $200 in the couch. Definitely looks like a 3d printed design.

Not that I am aware

I did this one a last year, and works rad:
https://www.printables.com/model/119...-ski-organizer

[AlpiNord]

Not that I am aware

I did this one a last year, and works rad:
https://www.printables.com/model/119...-ski-organizer

Interesting option, rfconroy. I’ve been kicking around something in between both of these approaches without the cam and springs of the Gravity Grabber (I presume) and the sloped sides of yours. More like a wedge for a pair of skis that slide up and down to lock them in place.

Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums