Great Trip to the Valley, it really is something there... its a place of inspiration that motivates and humbles in the same breath...
Went in through Tioga and climbed Wet American Dream, what a great route, super old school and the 100 foot slab run out finish even had me a little rattled. Then did a classic on the FIFI called COTU and that was just mega. We all know why I was there! EL CAPPPPPPP!
Day 0 prepped and shuttled gear to the base, its a bit of ass kicker approach given the amount of 3/4 class terrain + all the weight. Kind of cool I ran into Tommy and Alex near Moby Dick and chatted with them, asked if Alex was getting his record back ... 'Maybe next year' lol
Day 1 we cast off, hauling was something, pretty much had to use a 2 - 1 system for the first 4/5 pitches due to water and weight, made the going SLOW. Heres me aiding through the window pane flake, trust me it MOVES and the crack running down the back ensured ginger moves. Given the 50 ft pendulum at the top I aided through so my second had no gear to clean and could do an easy let out.
Day 2 was shitty. Made a big push to hit a bench mark pitch to start Day 3, upon the end of the day, a party bailing down our route rapped over our portaledge and due to the amount of weight and angle on the wall, kinked my portaledge and snapped it like a twig, casting us off it, this is at like 11 pm mind you. After several attempts to piece it together and we gave up and started ideation workarounds. We rigged the remainder of the ledge into a hammock for my partner, and i pulled the haulbag out from the wall, unclipped the leader strap and sat atop the bag with my chest against the wall. Envision sleeping 1200 ft off the deck on a bar stool. Sleeping is generous, the temps dropped and consistently had to friction my legs to stay warm.
Day 3 upon waking up pre dawnish, I had a flurry of thoughts - I had enough water, had enough food, skill was totally there, just no ledge. To me - thats fucking push through and do it (3/4 is greenlight to me). We made a MEGA push to the next natural ledge system and hauled to it just as the sun set. FUCKING STOKED.
Day 4 lets wrap this bitch up! Yet again a shitty nights sleep on a meh ledge, we could summit in a big push (6+ pitches to go). Hauling was easier 1 to 1 at this point. Heres rounding the corner towards the big ledge.
Last pitch... views were ok...
Jugging final slabs to the summit
Then we dropped everything after passing all the shittyness that is the el cap top out, funny how all the documentaries skip on the suffer section lol
Woke up to this sunrise. Prepped and hiked / rappelled down east ledges - then STRAIGHT to Curry Village Pizza. 2 Beers / 3 Vita Cocos / 1 Salad / 5 Slices later, i felt ok. hahahaa

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