another how far apart binding holes question

[CTR]

I want to remount bindings (dynafit speed radicals) a bit more forward on the same ski...I think has wood core...not sure about a binding plate inside......old question but how far between binding holes is TOO CLOSE?? one cm? more? ....plan on epoxy and hardwood dowels into the old holes, I'll be careful....thanks, Chet

[Climber Joe]

I’ve done about 1 cm, I prefer to do about 1.5-2cm center to center.

You can tell if a ski has metal in it if it specifies a drill diameter somewhere on the top sheet. If it has ⌀4.1mm that’s got metal. If it has ⌀3.5mm that has no metal.

[MagnificentUnicorn]

I’d be comfortable with holes touching if you’re using epoxy and hardwood in the holes. It may sound careless but I’ve never had a binding pull out on any of my skis. I


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Marshal Olson]

I’ve done about 1 cm, I prefer to do about 1.5-2cm center to center.

You can tell if a ski has metal in it if it specifies a drill diameter somewhere on the top sheet. If it has ⌀4.1mm that’s got metal. If it has ⌀3.5mm that has no metal.

Agree, I like to have >1cm of gap between holes, which is ~1.5cm center to center.

Done less than that on stout freeride skis, as posted above, but personally wouldn’t on lighter touring setups.

Also, I would say <1cm binding movement forward is pretty subtle, so if you are making the move for performance gains, I’d say 1.5cm center to center is about right anyhow.

[ktoor]

related article that may be of interest on wildsnow: how-many-holes-can-you-drill-in-a-ski-2

(cant seem to find out how to post the link)

[XXX-er]

https://www.wildsnow.com/32546/how-m...ll-in-a-ski-2/

1 cm is best practices, I wouldnt go closer than 1 cm besides you won't notice 1 cm but you might notice 2cm

i remounted a tech toe delam/ pullout for a buddy, I had to inject with epoxy/ move the mount by 1cm cuz of the delam but he said not to bother moving the other ski

sez he can't tell the difference a 1cm mismatched mount makes

[Cocximus]

2+cm if you ski one week a year. Overlap becomes acceptable if you ski 100+ days a year.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[F#*k you cat]

Paging SFB to the white courtesy phone.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

[Wes Mantooth]

I always use >1 cm as a rule of thumb but have seen some wacky shit on here that was way closer together if you're willing to go down the epoxy/wood dowel path

[kid-kapow]

BD's take.

I will happily remount closer than 4mm or even partially overlap (using wood plugs and epoxy), but then again I am a smaller guy with weak legs, so take it for what it is worth.

And re above - mounting forward 1 cm can make for a significant difference in how a ski skis in my experience. A lot of touring skis have a really rearward mount point though, so one can go forward quite a bit without coming close to being forward of the center of camber or too far farward on the sidecut.

[Shorty_J]

BD's take.

I will happily remount closer than 4mm or even partially overlap (using wood plugs and epoxy), but then again I am a smaller guy with weak legs, so take it for what it is worth.

And re above - mounting forward 1 cm can make for a significant difference in how a ski skis in my experience. A lot of touring skis have a really rearward mount point though, so one can go forward quite a bit without coming close to being forward of the center of camber or too far farward on the sidecut.

Any idea if that graph is based on data or gut feel? It looks like a pretty smooth curve so I suspect it's opinion more than "fact"?

And you and MU mount with holes touching with no issues?

I miscalculated when I bought bindings for a remount and the new bindings are pretty damn close to existing holes and I've been debating what to do about that.

The holes are plugged with hardwood and g-flex.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk

[MagnificentUnicorn]

Any idea if that graph is based on data or gut feel? It looks like a pretty smooth curve so I suspect it's opinion more than "fact"?

And you and MU mount with holes touching with no issues?

I miscalculated when I bought bindings for a remount and the new bindings are pretty damn close to existing holes and I've been debating what to do about that.

The holes are plugged with hardwood and g-flex.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk

I’d go for it. I’m 6’4” 245


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Shorty_J]

I’d go for it. I’m 6’4” 245


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

You might have just saved me a bunch of money... Thanks.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk

[kid-kapow]

sorry, did not see your reply before now.

Any idea if that graph is based on data or gut feel? It looks like a pretty smooth curve so I suspect it's opinion more than "fact"?

They explain how they got the curve in the link

And you and MU mount with holes touching with no issues?

I miscalculated when I bought bindings for a remount and the new bindings are pretty damn close to existing holes and I've been debating what to do about that.

The holes are plugged with hardwood and g-flex.

Yeah, I've done that and partial overlap too - zero issues thus far. Though I am pretty small/light - so perhaps not the best proof of concept

[MagnificentUnicorn]

Epoxy and dowels are good but I now use JB Weld wood epoxy putty to fill the holes.

I treat the skis a new after I plane the putty flat. I’ve overlapped holes and tapped holes with this method.

Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[1000-oaks]

If you want holes to be able to touch (but not overlapping) with 100% confidence, epoxy these into the old old holes, hacksaw them off (tape a plastic gift card with a notch cut in it to the topsheet to protect it from the saw blade), and grind flush with an abrasive 4" flap wheel. It's a pain in the ass, but it can save a pair of beloved skis. And if the threads are interlocking, I wouldn't be surprised if the mount is stronger than a single screw in a new ski, because you've doubled the surface area of the threads in the ski.
#12 X 3/4 Slotted Pan Tapping Sheet Metal Screws Type-AB ALUMINUM 12 X 3/4 (From seller bolts-n-nuts, in case he changes the item title.)

These super-rare #12 AB aluminum screws have the same thread as ski screws, and are a lot easier to cut off than steel ski screws. If you want to drill and tap overlapping holes, you'll need a vertical mill or really good drill press to keep the drill (or end mill) from being pushed sideways into the softer ski material by the aluminum screw. It took me years to find more of these screws, so I bought 400 to have a lifetime supply.

[Shorty_J]

In my case I have what I think is poplar dowels that are a snug fit into the holes, with g-flex in the holes, and the dowels are cut a little short so they get sealed off by the excess epoxy that squeezed out of the hole.

The binding I had in mind would put the new holes touching the sides of the old holes... Not really overlapping. I'm confident I can keep the drill from wandering... But when I look at the spacing a part of my just cringes. I'm not sure I can bring myself to do it over using another binding that is older but probably equivalent in function and quality.

Neither binding in question is pivots, but I actually do have room for those and should probably just bite the bullet and buy some of those and stop worrying, just have a little less money.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk

[Cocximus]

I suggest to tap and install 10-24 nylon screws with g-flex in the old holes.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[MagnificentUnicorn]

I suggest to tap and install 10-24 nylon screws with g-flex in the old holes.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

This and the aluminum screws sound like too much work. Stuff some wood epoxy putty in there and call it good.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[XXX-er]

Ignoring all the info in all the " best practises " threads of which there are many, just put holes where ever you want

if the screws pull out so you get hurt crashing or top sheet delams ( seen it ) or the ski breaks in half ( seen it) the holes were too close

back in the HW day the joke was " tighten it up till it breaks
and then back off 1/4 turn ! " lol

[Shorty_J]

Yeah getting hurt is the exact think I'm trying to avoid, but otherwise good advice.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk

[XXX-er]

Or sometimes the ski is damaged/ delamed when a binding rips out, which is why best practices might be better and besides

you won't notice a binding being moved 1 cm

[MagnificentUnicorn]

How were these best practices developed? Superstition, gut feeling?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Shorty_J]

Or sometimes the ski is damaged/ delamed when a binding rips out, which is why best practices might be better and besides

you won't notice a binding being moved 1 cm

Yes I will.

I know your opinion on mount points and you know mine.

You can let it go now.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk

[Shorty_J]

How were these best practices developed? Superstition, gut feeling?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Yeah that's a good question.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk