Ask the Idiots

[El Chupacabra]

agreed that ^^ tire is pretty much fine. Use some aqua seal eh.

FIFY.

[Boissal]

FIFY.

Now this is my kind of feedback.

Tire is fine for the rear, as long as the front is in good shape it doesn't matter what happens with the other half of the bike. It's summer in the Wasatch, you won't find traction if you put your face in the dirt and drag your teeth around...

[Eluder]

thread title delivers!

[Meconium]

Anyone ever try to buy Stumpjumper alloy frame form specialized? (Not evo)

Figure if the Status 140 Frameset is selling for $1049 and the Stumpjumper EVO Alloy Frameset is $1499, Stumpjumper alloy should fall around $900-$1100 new with shock?

Thinking the Status 140 is not the best choice for more pedal/trail, learning intermediate/beginners.

Trying to find a new 1K frame to finish up some family obligations. 120-140mm. limiting factor Is 140mm fox 34 donor fork and 29” wheels. Believe you can stuff a 29er in the ass of the Status but then again..

Anyways, 1K on a frame should get me in a nice build for around $1500 max. Figure why spend 2k for the entry Stumpjumper or the like when I can swing a better build for less.

Idiots often think there part bin is nicer then it is and neglect to evaluate how much this and that might add up to in the real word. Time is also money or just time…. haven’t started doing what need to be done on personal bike.

[toast2266]

Anyone ever try to buy Stumpjumper alloy frame form specialized? (Not evo)

Figure if the Status 140 Frameset is selling for $1049 and the Stumpjumper EVO Alloy Frameset is $1499, Stumpjumper alloy should fall around $900-$1100 new with shock?

Thinking the Status 140 is not the best choice for more pedal/trail, learning intermediate/beginners.

Trying to find a new 1K frame to finish up some family obligations. 120-140mm. limiting factor Is 140mm fox 34 donor fork and 29” wheels. Believe you can stuff a 29er in the ass of the Status but then again..

Anyways, 1K on a frame should get me in a nice build for around $1500 max. Figure why spend 2k for the entry Stumpjumper or the like when I can swing a better build for less.

Idiots often think there part bin is nicer then it is and neglect to evaluate how much this and that might add up to in the real word. Time is also money or just time…. haven’t started doing what need to be done on personal bike.

I don't believe specialized offers the stumpy alloy as a frame only, so I bet you're easiest avenue will be to buy the entry level bike for $2k, swap parts onto it, and then sell the takeoffs. You won't get a ton of money for takeoffs, but I bet the cost will be more or less a wash compared to building from the frame up.

Building frames up on the cheap never works out like it should. All it takes is a BB, headset, and/or seatpost to be a different size and your budget very quickly starts to look less favorable. Not to mention building a bike up is when you inevitably remember that you kinda need new tires, the grips are worn out, and the brake pads are almost to the backing material.

[Meconium]

Figure Magura MT4 Disc Brake $100-140 for the set. Shimano BB $25, flats $30, grips $10, dropper $120.
If headset not included $40ish (Wild card saddle, bars)

That’s under $400 excluding the wild cards. I’d probably wing it if they sold the frame for a G.
11-speed XT/XTR is an upgrade in my book, can’t think of any downgrade from bottom of barrel Stumpjumper. I suck at selling stuff so reusing parts and saving $500 sounds appealing,

Guess when I finish a kids build I'm in the midle of, I should pencil that out and post it to figure out if it was idiotic, probably was. Most of the part bin stuff wasn’t that kid appropriate so the “budget” trickles down to the wife build. Reminds me, I need to build up an old steel M950 retro bike and pump the dry rot tires to 35psi, hike the bitch up to the top of Mt Wire and see how that goes on the way down for old time sake.

Wonder what other companies might start pawning frames off?
Trek Fest was a joke, Specialized must have over ordered, seams like good value from a big box company. Canyon already flushed out with a sale,
Think YT did the same. I’m guessing Giant/Liv are overloaded by the looks in the eyes of the sails folk trying to get rid of overwhelming floor stock. Jenson will probably get a flood of frames at some point or resurrect the "Jenson build" . TPC probably has too many overpaid for used bikes to deal with to take on last year’s new old stock?

SO, does an Idiot wait for better sails or buy now while unknown inventory is available. Is the industry waiting for the late March/April rush to see what they can sell at token discount pre COVID pricing before the bottom drops out in the summer? My money is that all the Euro shops buy out OEM parts for nothing and the US is blocked from buying them online.

[Thaleia]

What is the general consensus on patching tubes? Kids bike, half decent build but tubeless is not an option, and he gets multiple punctures per year.He relys heavily on this for transportation so have always erred on new tubes. Getting new tires as well.

[toast2266]

What is the general consensus on patching tubes? Kids bike, half decent build but tubeless is not an option, and he gets multiple punctures per year.He relys heavily on this for transportation so have always erred on new tubes. Getting new tires as well.

A good patch will last a long time. I much prefer traditional glued patches over glueless.

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[Thaleia]

Thank you!It looks like the Park Tool option is less than 3 bucks and wow, does that ever warm my cheap ass heart.

[evdog]

Get tubes with removable cores, and put a few ounces of sealant in them. If they are just punctures this should solve the problem the same way tubeless with sealant would.

[Canada1]

Look at the heavy duty tubes too. They add weight, but unless he's racing, who cares.

[Full Trucker]

...if you put your face in the dirt and drag your teeth around...

0/10.

Do not recommend.

[jackstraw]

Get tubes with removable cores, and put a few ounces of sealant in them. If they are just punctures this should solve the problem the same way tubeless with sealant would.

This. When I ran toobs on my fat bike I bet I had 4-5 sealed holes before the tube failed on me.

[XXX-er]

A good patch will last a long time. I much prefer traditional glued patches over glueless.





Along with driving a manual transmission is this a lost art I think people don't realize the glue must DRY

[toast2266]

Along with driving a manual transmission is this a lost art I think people don't realize the glue must DRY

Exactly. When I say a "good patch," I mostly mean one that was applied correctly. Clean the tube, scuff up the area around the hole, apply a thin, even layer of glue, let it dry, put the patch on and press it on hard, especially around the edges.

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[XXX-er]

I would just replace the tube becuz often I would be riding with the bugs and do not wana wait for glue to dry





BUT then I take the tubes home and when i get 6 dead ones fix them in my bug free shop with the kit I carried in my seat bag while having a beverage.






The reason to do this is so I use up an entire old patch kit in my seat bag or an open tube of glue will be fubared when I need it so then I buy a fresh pastch kit Park branded patch-kits IME are pretty good they have the patchs that featehr out nicely to the edge of the patch






I carry a tube haven't needed one in 5 yrs probaly not gona carry a fat bike tube cuz they are so bulkey






so does the glue dry when its cold ??

[jm2e]

I have a pathological need to remove the clear plastic. I know I might fuck up the patch. I can’t not do it.


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[XXX-er]

IME one can squeez the patch in the middle , the cello will split down the middle and you can pull it off from the middle

[jameesmmillerr@gmail.com]

Tip on the patch removal! Never thought of splitting the cello from the middle like that. Saves the patch and scratches the itch of removing that plastic cover. Thanks for the bike hack.

[Thaleia]

Hey thanks all for the tube talk, will look for heavy duty tubes and or add some sealant as well.

[jm2e]

What happened to GT?
I don’t really mean right now, with the zero-shits-given parent company finally turning off the lights.
I mean, how did they suck so badly at selling bikes for so many years? Mostly I think about this when I see old pics and footage of The Athertons. How many medals did they win on GT bikes? How many people watched The Atherton Project, and saw their many movie segments? And that whole time they were the house brand at America’s Milquetoast Bike Shop: Performance Bikes. Even at those shops, I never saw a single poster of a World Champion on one of their bikes. Nor did the employees even know the name.
Instead, they went unnoticed by the entire industry.
It’s almost like someone wanted to see how far a rudderless ship could sail.


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[jackstraw]

We were discussing what this sign meant and we agreed that it must mean "no hardtails". Thoughts?

[Andeh]

I'd say it means no rigid townie bikes (clearly rigid curved fork), with super swept back bars. So if you ride a full suspension MTB or eMTB, you're good.

[jackstraw]

I'd say it means no rigid townie bikes (clearly rigid curved fork), with super swept back bars. So if you ride a full suspension MTB or eMTB, you're good.

Yeah, good point. Hardtails and FS allowed. No townies or pre 1991-ish rigid mtb. I knew we were good.

The truly funny thing is this sign is posted on one of the most heavily traveled trails in Santa Cruz, "Mailboxes".