Tired of piddle dicking around trying to get a perfect center line for mounting clamps. Pisses me off even when sober. Seems like I've seen a few 3D printed gizmos for exactly this purpose and I want one. Where do I get one?
Tired of piddle dicking around trying to get a perfect center line for mounting clamps. Pisses me off even when sober. Seems like I've seen a few 3D printed gizmos for exactly this purpose and I want one. Where do I get one?
I'm in for one too, if someone would be so kind as to print one up and ship it out to me. I've found that finding the centerline is the biggest timesink when mounting your own fuckin skis, and I'd gladly pay for filament + shipping + a 6 pack.
I have a centering ruler, like these:
https://www.amazon.com/centering-rul...entering+ruler
But someone here (Slide Wright maybe) has something more ski specific.
I know there are some fancy adjustable ones floating around, but I just printed a simple one based on Alpinord's skiscribe idea. I'd be happy to make a couple more but I don't want to take any business away from Terry if he is still selling his nice wood ones.
This thing. Via RFConroy from the mount your own fucking skis thread…
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4744005
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I bought a 3D printer to make one. $99 at Microcenter with a coupon right now. I’ve been wanting to screw around with one anyway so it’s a perfect excuse.
"Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
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Essentially this... quoting rfconroy remarking on the thingsverse centering tool:
print the male thread at 99% scale, and the female threaded parts at 101%, then I throw some light grease on the thread and cycle it a few times.
The tool works pretty well. I scribe a line with it and then flip it over and scribe again just in case center of the tool isn't perfect or the threads shifted a little. Waaayyy faster then other methods.
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No matter where you go, there you are. - BB
My 15 year old said it’s fucked up. I agree. Why print one thread at 99 and one at 101?
It should be 100 percent scale. Weird.
But cool tool idea.
Curious how much people would pay shipped.
He’s been making a 3D side biz. Latest project is snowboard binding risers. He could crank these out.
In fairness to the designer he said
Likely because every printer prints with a different extruder/flow rate and a different configuration in general
Kill all the telemarkers
But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason
CS depending on what the kiddo is looking to make I could be interested. No real new ski plans for a few years but you never know.
What’s wrong with using a speed square or a combination square?
Another way is to get an old cheap binding jig for an obsolete binding nobody wants but one that has a centered screw in the pattern, then mark your center lines off that jig. I like that method best because it’s easy and it centers off the edges of the ski so you’re not trying to measure off the topsheet or sidewalls or whatever.
If using a speed square, presumably the sidecut is symmetrical so your angles are slightly off from 45*, but the intersection should still be in the center. You only need two center-points in order to mark the centerline.
Regardless of the sidecut, I don’t think it is significant enough to impact the measure using a combination square (using the “adjustable” ruler and 90* angle method).
Because rich has nothing to do with money.
I’ve managed to fail to center a couple pairs of skis using speed squares (luckily caught while double checking) and stopped using them. I don’t think I’m the only one, based on the amount of DIY guides suggesting against. The skis in question I never got centered with a square despite multiple attempts and I still don’t entirely know why. I’d prefer a method I can rely on every time.
I hear ya. I used to mount bindings in a shop. Obviously a jig is the way to go for any kind of volume. Presumably a “tool” of some sort would help for personal use. But, I so infrequently mount my own at home that taking the time to measure a centerline isn’t that taxing for me.
Because rich has nothing to do with money.
yeah this ^^ exactly
i was trying to calculate on a cocktail napkin how much time I would save making a centering device vs using a speed square, then I thot maybe write a program to figure it out
at the end of the day mounting a ski binding is just good layout
always do your measurements off the metal ski edge
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
I’m preparing to mount the 6th pair of the season, any time saved is a boon. I’m about to start just eyeballing it and learn to ski crooked
Or take up telemark and they will ski either better or worse
Unless I was geting paid I would try to mount less skis
Duno if I am reading SFB's posts correctly ( who can?) but he is mounting 8 in one hr but he has all the gear and he knows what he is doing
I had a buddy who got paid by the ski mount so Seiba could literally and always did give the owner the middle finger cuz Seiba was so good/ fast he could tell the owner to fuck off and what he was good at was layout cuz he was also a carpenter, buddy showed me some layout tricks that really impressed me
if you ain't a carpenter or a ski tech go slow
Last edited by XXX-er; 02-06-2022 at 12:48 PM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
For those without printers - most libraries have 3D printers where you can print parts for stupid cheap, like barely more than the cost of the material.
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This is my approach now. I would bet no one could tell. I’ve measured after a mount and it’s always less than a mm off. Probably more accurate than a jig that gets used hundreds of times.
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Ive successfully printed the centerline jig and can confirm it does work, would print for others for cost of shipping and filament. Dm me.
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