The Alpinist - Marc-André Leclerc

**jacob_dbu** · 12-09-2021, 02:55 PM

Originally Posted by Dantheman

I haven't seen the movie yet, but if you're an adult without kids or other dependents you don't really owe anyone else anything. Of course, that doesn't make it less sad.

On your general musings on risk, alpine climbing has a level of un-mitigatable risk that even Honnold's soloing doesn't carry. If you really hang it out there like Leclerc, Steck, et al. did your luck is going to run out eventually.

I mean it is true that you don't owe anyone anything, you don't owe the world anything - it's not even a logical statement to say that you owe the world anything. Even if you had children you could argue you don't owe them anything, it's a value choice at the deepest level.

**schuss** · 12-10-2021, 08:27 AM

Originally Posted by thejongiest

Just watched this as well. I have mixed feelings. Reminds me of the saying that there are bold climbers and there are old climbers, but there aren't any bold and old climbers. He was doing what he loved and he clearly had an insane amount of raw talent and athletic ability. But I worry that it puts unrealistically dreams in the minds of other people, idolizing taking exorbitant risk.

Was it selfish of him to take these risks, leaving his girlfriend and mom behind? There's no right answer to that I think, everyone has to choose their own path. I just know that I often see people skiing stuff midwinter on Instagram that just looks foolish (to me). I mean it looks awesome, but I just think to myself - I wouldn't be willing to take that risk.

Yeah, definitely a personal choice, and as long as you understand the choices you're making and are honest with partners/family about it - then you've done what you can. It's still a bit selfish, but show me a human that isn't selfish in some dimension and I'll be shocked.
I would never make those choices, but I won't judge those who do, as we're all wired differently and on our own journeys.

**Peruvian** · 12-10-2021, 08:51 AM

I really enjoyed the film, although I knew the ending within minutes and I had never heard of him previously.

**Dantheman** · 12-10-2021, 02:00 PM

Originally Posted by thejongiest

I mean it is true that you don't owe anyone anything, you don't owe the world anything - it's not even a logical statement to say that you owe the world anything. Even if you had children you could argue you don't owe them anything, it's a value choice at the deepest level.

For some people not pushing themselves as far as they possibly can is akin to a fate worse than death:

“People are constantly asking me how I ‘let’ Shane do what he did,” she says. “It just floors me. To me, it would have been like putting an eagle in a cage – a tiny cage.”

-Sherry McConkey

**fomofo** · 12-12-2021, 12:11 PM

Now available on Netflix.

https://www.netflix.com/title/81500204

**ex-powderbroker** · 12-12-2021, 09:55 PM

14 Peaks was not quite as good but also worth watching if you’re into seeing dudes do superhuman stuff in the mountains - with a happier ending.

**east or bust** · 12-20-2021, 09:20 PM

Holy sweaty palms batman. Speechless

Had never heard of him and knew nothing about this film going into it, and definitely didn’t see that ending coming. What an amazing soul, incredibly sad.

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**jmedslc** · 12-20-2021, 09:38 PM

Originally Posted by east or bust

Holy sweaty palms batman. Speechless

Had never heard of him and knew nothing about this film going into it, and definitely didn’t see that ending coming. What an amazing soul, incredibly sad.

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Seriously same here! What a cliffhanger!!

**hutash** · 12-23-2021, 09:07 AM

Although I knew he had died before I watched the film, it was evident from the start he was going to die in the mountains sooner rather then later. While I have nothing against free solos, there is a point were no matter how good you are there are just too mentioanyn uncontrolled aspects in the types of climbs he was doing. Hell, some of those climbs would be sketch even roped.

That said, he knew the risks, chose to take them and in the end lost. His choice, and while I am sad for family and friends they all knew what he was about. Sherry McConkey pretty well summed it up.

This is definitely on of the best alpine climbing films out there. Anybody else remember the original "Solo" from the early 70s???

**old goat** · 12-24-2021, 12:13 PM

While neither one is "safe" there's a big difference between free soloing a frequently climbed solid rock route on granite or sandstone (ala Honnold) and soloing technical routes in the high alpine.

In music it's said that the amateur practices until they can get it right. The professional practices until they can't get it wrong. Seems like that would apply to climbing and free soloing.

**yeahman** · 01-03-2022, 05:23 PM

Finally watched it and yeah it was a really good film. I was prepared to be critical of him, because it seems to me that any talented climber can get away with this stuff for at least a little while if they are crazy enough, and many who burn bright have died just as quickly. But he won me over despite that, just because of his demeanor. Kind of ironic that he died climbing with a partner after all that dangerous soloing. RIP

**Toadman** · 01-17-2022, 08:51 PM

Just watched on NetFlix. Had no idea about this guy's story. Not into rock climbing but always in awe of people who do it. I usually end up getting sweaty palms watching them hanging from thousands of feet up with nothing but hands and feet to prevent certain death. Quite a remarkable movie. I couldn't help but think that his brain was wired differently. And reading his blog to realize that he could actually experience fear. He never showed any in the footage which was mind blowing.

**schuss** · 01-18-2022, 09:10 AM

Finally saw it - his ethos and accomplishments are truly inspiring in terms of on-sight solos, but it's clear that continuing on that path would eventually kill him just from the dice coming up snake eyes at some point. Definitely wish I had followed more of him while he was alive. He had a really wonderful perspective on the mountains.

**Toadman** · 01-18-2022, 03:05 PM

Originally Posted by schuss

Finally saw it - his ethos and accomplishments are truly inspiring in terms of on-sight solos, but it's clear that continuing on that path would eventually kill him just from the dice coming up snake eyes at some point. Definitely wish I had followed more of him while he was alive. He had a really wonderful perspective on the mountains.

Spoiler alert! - I actually didn't know the guy was dead when I started watching it. But I wasn't surprised that he ended up dying. I couldn't help but think while he was climbing one of those giant pieces of ice in Canada that at some point one of those things was just going to break off, and that's all folks. Still he lived quite the life while he was alive.

**EWG** · 01-24-2022, 06:41 PM

First, it's a stunning movie in and of itself. A work of art. I'm biased, as a friend was part of it's creation, but still.

It's amazing to have such good video of Marc Andre because it was so hard to get him to do that. To see the way he moves on rock/snow/ice is shocking for me to watch. He's almost mentally detached.

Finally, the movie felt like a eulogy from the first moment. I wonder if that was put in after he was lost in Alaska, or if Sender films could see at the time that this was not going to last. I need to ask, cause I really want to know.

Marc Andre opened up new territory and new dreams. He paid for it.

This game of ghosts.

**Angle Parking** · 01-24-2022, 07:55 PM

Originally Posted by EWG

This game of ghosts.

Where is this from? the expression I mean

**John_B** · 01-24-2022, 07:59 PM

Originally Posted by Angle Parking

Where is this from? the expression I mean

It was the title of a Joe Simpson book. He also wrote Touching the Void. This Game of Ghosts is focused on his climbs but also the relatively astounding death rate of English climbers in the big mountains in the 80s and 90s.

**Angle Parking** · 01-24-2022, 08:11 PM

Originally Posted by John_B

It was the title of a Joe Simpson book. He also wrote Touching the Void. This Game of Ghosts is focused on his climbs but also the relatively astounding death rate of English climbers in the big mountains in the 80s and 90s.

That's right. I couldn't quite place it. Never read it but had it meant too especially during the hoopla surrounding the film. Too many books, too little time. And on that note, wish Marc-Andre had had more time. Wondering what mind blowing things he could have accomplished.

Maybe it's just me, but Trevor Sexsmith, who posted on these pages, keeps popping in my head.

**abraham** · 01-24-2022, 08:36 PM

Originally Posted by EWG

First, it's a stunning movie in and of itself. A work of art. I'm biased, as a friend was part of it's creation, but still.

It's amazing to have such good video of Marc Andre because it was so hard to get him to do that. To see the way he moves on rock/snow/ice is shocking for me to watch. He's almost mentally detached.

Finally, the movie felt like a eulogy from the first moment. I wonder if that was put in after he was lost in Alaska, or if Sender films could see at the time that this was not going to last. I need to ask, cause I really want to know.

Marc Andre opened up new territory and new dreams. He paid for it.

This game of ghosts.

There's a runout podcast where they discuss making this, it's worth listening to it you're curious. I linked to it, but maybe in the other thread about the movie?

Originally Posted by Angle Parking

That's right. I couldn't quite place it. Never read it but had it meant too especially during the hoopla surrounding the film. Too many books, too little time. And on that note, wish Marc-Andre had had more time. Wondering what mind blowing things he could have accomplished.

Maybe it's just me, but Trevor Sexsmith, who posted on these pages, keeps popping in my head.

He's one I think about reliably every call about when it snows for the first time. Not the only one who used to hang out here who comes to mind unfortunately.

**EWG** · 01-24-2022, 09:40 PM

The whole thing was like watching a comet.

I just can't get over how he was working between ice tools and bare hands, back and forth. Or that he did his climbs on sight. It's fucking mind blowing.

**Danno** · 01-24-2022, 09:57 PM

Originally Posted by EWG

The whole thing was like watching a comet. .

Great description.

**hutash** · 01-26-2022, 09:59 AM

"It is not the mountain we conquer, but ourselves".

Leclerc epitomizes this quote (or paraphrase depending on who you attribute it to). He conquered a part of the human condition few of us will ever approach. Yet, the mountains don't care how good, bad or indifferent we are and treat us all the same. He operated at a different level, physically, emotionally and technically. Ulli Steck comes to mind, maybe Reinhold Meschner, and very few others. Alex certainly on a mind control level, but I doubt we will ever see Alex approach that level of exposure (which I commend him for.) I wouldn't use the term "reckless" for Leclerc, and I am not sure what term to use, but he was definetely on the adge.