Tool Time

[EWG]

BB press? Anyone recommend one, or home made hack?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

An 8" threaded 1/2" hex bolt with washers on each end that step up in size so the largest one is wider than your BB, two crescent wrenches, and about 5 beers.

[XXX-er]

An 8" threaded 1/2" hex bolt with washers on each end that step up in size so the largest one is wider than your BB, two crescent wrenches, and about 5 beers.

An 8" bolt ^^ from the building supply ( at least those available in my local store) with biggest fender washers will work IME but can be a pain cuz part of the bolt is not threaded so you need extra bolts for spacers to make it work

SO what works better is called " ready rod " becuz its just a length of rod that is threaded thru out its full length

also ^^ works for pressing BB or head set

I like the park der hanger tool if one is available but I can usually get it straight in one try with an eyeball & cresent wrench

for a torque wrench just tighten till it snaps and back off a 1/4 turn

when i could just order a tool case with pockets for everything they were nice but nowdays its a plastic box from canuck tire and the tools aren't always in it

[Dantheman]

i need to start building up my bike tool set and figuring shit out myself. any reccs on a intro type set that won't break the bank and i can gradually add to?

Ignoring the more basic non- or marginally-bike specific tools that your should own regardless (e.g., L handle allen wrench set, needle nose pliers, screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, razor knife, etc.), my strategy has been to buy the tool(s) when a repair/task comes up that I need it for. Eventually you'll end up with a pretty complete kit. I used to compare the cost of the tool to the cost of the repair at the shop, but with shop rates and lead times these days that's become superfluous. While I'm certainly no pro and it's taken a long ass time, at this point the only work I outsource is full suspension rebuilds.

[Dantheman]

Third tier

• chain link removing tool/quick link pliers
• y handle allen wrenches (some put these in first tier, but L handle set is better)
• disc brake spacer
• downhill tire iron
• chain checker
• some people like rubber hammers. I don't use em. Real hammer needed very infrequently.
• Bike workstand

Workstand is a third tier item? Really? Workstand should be tier zero, and I say that as someone who fucked around without one for way, way too long.

[Dee Hubbs]

I’ll post a single photo of each layer of my box, and explain what’s in there and why. And maybe a tool preference blurb.

[shirk]

The PB Swiss hex are nice, but Wera's Hex-Plus design have a way better engagement.

Attachment 377686

And for 1/4 hex bits Wiha make the best.
BUT If you ever have a rounded out T25, the Wira Torx wedge bit will get you out of a sticky situation.

I purchase a lot of these from KC Tools, their motto is "America's #1 German Tool Distributor", but it should be "we will take your first born as payment.... "

Why on earth would you buy Wiha standard 1/4 hex bits when you can buy Wera Hex Plus 1/4 bits????

https://www.kctool.com/1-4-drive-ins...snf=1&brand=43

[XXX-er]

A park professional bike stand is really nice to have, mine is a bench model so moving around i didn't always have a bench to mount it to so i bolted it to a black n decker workmate which made it good for stand alone use

I got a park wheel truing stand which I never use so if I flog it what are they worth used ??

edit: they are 500+ and out of stock probably forever so it might be a good time to sell

[EWG]

I’ll post a single photo of each layer of my box, and explain what’s in there and why. And maybe a tool preference blurb.

I'm not sure the server is large enough for a full list of your tools. My shop has everything I listed in the tiers plus more, but I'm betting your collection doubles mine. I know for sure that your shoe collection triples mine.

Workstand is a third tier item? Really? Workstand should be tier zero, and I say that as someone who fucked around without one for way, way too long.

Heh. Yeah, but you don't NEED it to fix your bike. The other things I listed in tier 1 and 2 you need. But I generally agree with you - it's really nice to have. Though these days, for myself, I'm quick enough at a lot of things that I often don't use the stand and just bang out the repair.

An 8" bolt ^^ from the building supply ( at least those available in my local store) with biggest fender washers will work IME but can be a pain cuz part of the bolt is not threaded so you need extra bolts for spacers to make it work

SO what works better is called " ready rod " becuz its just a length of rod that is threaded thru out its full length

for a torque wrench just tighten till it snaps and back off a 1/4 turn

Agreed. Needs to be threaded it's whole length. I should have mentioned that, thanks. Also, I dig your torque wrench style.

I’d personally put a torque wrench up in first or second tier, especially if working with carbon parts/frame. At only $45 for a pretty nice one, there’s not much excuse for not having it:

https://www.tekton.com/1-4-inch-driv...rench-trq21101

I felt this also didn't fall under what you NEED to fix a bike like the other tier 1 and 2 stuff, but I'm buying that you have a good argument for tier 2. I'm pretty comfortable without one personally, so it's less critical to me.

Ignoring the more basic non- or marginally-bike specific tools that your should own regardless (e.g., L handle allen wrench set, needle nose pliers, screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, razor knife, etc.), my strategy has been to buy the tool(s) when a repair/task comes up that I need it for. Eventually you'll end up with a pretty complete kit. I used to compare the cost of the tool to the cost of the repair at the shop, but with shop rates and lead times these days that's become superfluous. While I'm certainly no pro and it's taken a long ass time, at this point the only work I outsource is full suspension rebuilds.

I think this is a great way to look at it.

I got a park wheel truing stand which I never use so if I flog it what are they worth used ??

You clearly need to break more wheels

[XXX-er]

" tighten til it breaks and back off 1/4 turn " was a standing coffee shop joke amongst the HW fixin brethren, if you broke something you had to make another trip to fix it so you learned how the right torque feels or spent a lot of time replacing broken stuff, we had a big guy with huge hands who would over tighten things, fortunately he went into software

[Dee Hubbs]

My travel tool box is not built for weight, no super light tools, no titanium hammers (I'd rather spend $200 on other things), no leaving tools out that might not be needed.
It weighs 13.5kg/30lbs. It's a Rigid Pro Organizer, 22" x 14" x 6.5", with Kaizen foam inserts.
TOP LAYER



Top layer of my travel tool box. Left to Right Top row, Left to Right Bottom row:
-Wera L- Hex Keys. 8mm, 6mm, 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 2.5mm, 2.0mm (2.0 has a wrap of tape on it at 50mm/70mm from the end of the wrench, the 2.0mm is mostly used to adjust the lever reach adjustment screws, so the 60mm tape mark gives me a quick reference to equal lever adjustments). T10, T25, T30. The color coding on the Wera is nice and the Hex Plus shape is great for hold and preventing stripping.
-Park tool picks, straight and L shaped.
-3m/10ft measuring tape
-3 Way hex key 6mm, 5mm, 4 mm (color marked for quick identification), and under neath it a 3mm, 2.5mm, 2.0mm 3 way hex.
-Park Tool SW-7 spoke wrench with 3 sizes: 3.23mm, 3.30mm, 3.45mm
-Shimano CN42 Chain wear indicator. I like the Shimano because it pushes the roller pins together for accurate measurement. But just pick one style and stick with it.
-100mm/4" mini caliper
-150mm/6" steel ruler with sliding depth stop
-Park Tool CNW-2 chain ring bolt tool
-Disc brake rotor centering adjustment tool
-Topeak Digital Tire Pressure Smart Gauge
-Park tool VC-1 valve core remover tool
-Strong LED light
LOWER HALF
-1/4 square ratchet palm spinner
-Park Tool folding hex key set (when someone asks to borrow a hex key) or for a 1.5mm key.
-Wiha 1/4 hex bits 25mm length: T25 wedge (for stripped T25s), T10, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm extension on top of 6mm.
-Wera 1/4 hex bits 89mm length for the Wera screw driver, Hex Plus 6mm, 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 2.5mm, 2mm, T10, T20, T25, T30, Phillips #1, #2, Flat 1.2x8mm, 1.0x5.5mm. Wera 1/4 hex bits 25mm length: Hex Plus 6mm, 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 2.5mm, 2.0mm, T25mm.
-Mastercraft 1/4 square drive ratchet
-Wera screw driver
-Wera 1/4 square ratchet to 1/4 drive adapter, allows me to use any of the 1/4 drive bits with a ratchet or the quick drive palm ratchet
-CDI Torque Control Wrench adjustable from 2-8Nm. accepts all my 1/4 bits. (CDI is the torque tool devision for Snap On, very good quality and accuracy)
-Bontrager 5Nm pre set torque wrenches, 4mm (marked in yellow for quick identifications), 5mm (marked in Orange for quick identification) and T25.
-Crankbothers Speedier Tire Lever for those stubborn tires (I cant believe its made by Crankbrothers)
-Park Tool TL-1 tire lever.

The next layers will be posted later.

[s_squatch]

Nice. That's some good explaining. I'm eager for the next instalments, mainly because for the life of me I can't figure out why you have a plumb bob in a bike tool kit.

[Dee Hubbs]

Nice. That's some good explaining. I'm eager for the next instalments, mainly because for the life of me I can't figure out why you have a plumb bob in a bike tool kit.

Spoiler alert, for bike fit of fore/aft saddle position. KOPS (Knee Over Pedal Spindle).

[s_squatch]

Spoiler alert, for bike fit of fore/aft saddle position. KOPS (Knee Over Pedal Spindle).

ah yeah, that makes sense.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Spoiler alert, for bike fit of fore/aft saddle position. KOPS (Knee Over Pedal Spindle).

Don’t even need to believe in that KOPS B.S. to find a plumb bob handy for transferring saddle fore/aft over to a new bike!

[grskier]

Ignoring the more basic non- or marginally-bike specific tools that your should own regardless (e.g., L handle allen wrench set, needle nose pliers, screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, razor knife, etc.), my strategy has been to buy the tool(s) when a repair/task comes up that I need it for. Eventually you'll end up with a pretty complete kit. I used to compare the cost of the tool to the cost of the repair at the shop, but with shop rates and lead times these days that's become superfluous. While I'm certainly no pro and it's taken a long ass time, at this point the only work I outsource is full suspension rebuilds.

This and youtube videos has been my strategy.

[VTskibum]

This thread may be more dangerous than the 2021 bike lust one.

Like the tiers, I do have and use a headset/bb press, like the Wheel Manufacturing one for home use.

Off the cuff I probably use chain whip, cassette drivers and my two torque wrenches the most from the non core tier. I own no cone wrenches and can probably only think of a few times that I could have used them. Though my hubs tend to be pretty easy to service.

Also use my quick link breaker pretty often. I have the Pedros one, but think the Park one that also allows you to close/lock/spread the link would be better. Now I pull it off the stand and step on the pedal to apply pressure to lock quick link. NBD but could be better.

Organically grew my (disaster) shop organically as well, which is likely the way to go IMO. Next step for me is getting my tools together for fork rebuilds. Had one mechanic and shop in my area that was always so far above I didn’t bother, but mechanic moved so now adding to my DIY list.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[snowaddict91]

Ignoring the more basic non- or marginally-bike specific tools that your should own regardless (e.g., L handle allen wrench set, needle nose pliers, screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, razor knife, etc.), my strategy has been to buy the tool(s) when a repair/task comes up that I need it for. Eventually you'll end up with a pretty complete kit. I used to compare the cost of the tool to the cost of the repair at the shop, but with shop rates and lead times these days that's become superfluous. While I'm certainly no pro and it's taken a long ass time, at this point the only work I outsource is full suspension rebuilds.

Pretty much what I've done. Also agree that a stand is important.

I need to organize my bike tools though, right now all bike stuff is just tossed in the bike drawer in the rolling toolbox. Someday.

[VTskibum]

Related tool time carry over from expert thread… below is my tulbag w contents that fits in road jersey pocket or mtb bib liner pocket. Tubes on bikes and this for road/gravel/CX has saved my bacon more than a few times. Did just get a stans dart but haven’t used it yet, or figured out where to put it. Think that’ll be for longer more remote rides.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sandbox]

Buy a new frame with a threaded BB.

This hurts me…. Yah I’m disappointed as I came from a threaded to a press ( which I thought were dead) but such is life.

For sure hoping my next bike will be threaded. I’ll have to live with this for 2 years or so.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[EWG]

This hurts me…. Yah I’m disappointed as I came from a threaded to a press ( which I thought were dead) but such is life.

For sure hoping my next bike will be threaded. I’ll have to live with this for 2 years or so.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

See? A perfect excuse to buy a bearing press. Can double as a headset press. And a beer can crusher if you drill a hole in the bottom of the beer can.

[Dee Hubbs]

This hurts me…. Yah I’m disappointed as I came from a threaded to a press ( which I thought were dead) but such is life.

For sure hoping my next bike will be threaded. I’ll have to live with this for 2 years or so.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

All jokes aside, as long as you have the right BB presses, any threaded rod/washer/nut combo will work.
I have a simple Shimano TL-BB12 (https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-TL...B-Install-Tool) press fit tool, and I have a bunch of other size presses that I use on it.

[XXX-er]

See? A perfect excuse to buy a bearing press. Can double as a headset press. And a beer can crusher if you drill a hole in the bottom of the beer can.

you are suposed to crush the beer cans on your forehead

[EWG]

you are suposed to crush the beer cans on your forehead

Shit, you’re right.

Then why the hell do I own a fucking Park headset press?

Dammit.

[Sandbox]

Shit, you’re right.

Then why the hell do I own a fucking Park headset press?

Dammit.

Park actually makes a headband with a metal plate on it for crushing cans on your head, believe the tool number is HBCC-12, retail is $118 and it’s sold out


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Sandbox]

Would this work for what I need? Cheap ass Amazon and if it sucks it goes right back.



Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums