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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Tahoe
    Posts
    15,172

    When did this happen? V to YDS

    Iíve always been told (and google confirms)
    Vb=5.8 and below
    V0=5.9
    V1=5.10+
    V2=5.11
    Or something very similar

    The last two guidebooks I bought (mammoth and Tahoe west, both from same publisher) use this
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It doesnít really matter I was just surprised to read differently in print


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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13,365
    the buttermilks are super soft and they wanted to even it out? weird
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Posts
    4
    Are you saying that a 5.11 is a sustained v2 the whole way up? Or they are equally comparable in difficulty to complete?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    CO
    Posts
    2,206
    That chart seems way off to me. I thought 7a was 5.11d and my international climbing experience agrees. No way it's 12b/c.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    4,372
    Quote Originally Posted by zartagen View Post
    That chart seems way off to me. I thought 7a was 5.11d and my international climbing experience agrees. No way it's 12b/c.
    Font is not normal French. It's a bouldering guide.
    A 7A boulder Crux is usually in a 7c (5.12c?) sport( if It's short).
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    9
    Font grade system is specific for bouldering... different from the french sport grades. 7a french = 11d & 8a font = v11

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    15' from MT
    Posts
    295
    The Buttermilks used YDS in the 80-90s when I climbed there. Boulder problems, IME, have always had 'stiff' ratings. 11s were 12s and what they would call a 12 or B2 were 13s. I always figured the ratings were fine b/c they were problems and not routes, at least most anyway...the Peabodys were solos and maybe a few others in the Adam's Family zones. Ratings have a hella geographic disparity so I always took them with a grain of salt until I got used to the area.

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