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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    461
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I thot yanking your chain in a thread on chainlube was priceless
    Apparently everything is going over my head today

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    179
    Haha, was trying to throw a bone to the non-queso crowd in saying the initial clean was some work. Itís more work than just dripping on some traditional lube and pedaling. But, like I said, cleaning off the factory gunk probably is wise regardless of what you use. In that case, itís definitely less work to run wax when you consider how little maintenance is required after the initial setup.

    Re: dirty area. Not a moon dust area. Really wet, muddy area. Trailís are slow to dry. Lots of creek crossings. But will also get dry dust in certain spots. Super humid southeast sand and mud-riding. Just feel like I canít keep my bike clean around here, drivetrain was always squawking by the end of a long ride till I switched to wax (molten speedwax for me).


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    25,863
    before wax I would just use a liberal amount of pro-gold right on a chain right out of the wrapper to clean & lube as I ride,

    then shop bro told me wax was the shit, he was into Boesheild, I stumbled onto squirt on-line tried it and stuck with it, not very scientific
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    5,736
    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    I’ve been Molten Speed Queso-ing then using a tiny bit of Squirt to augment when I can start to hear a chirp or even just a little more ‘mechanical’ noise from my drivetrain. It’s been working great and chainwear measurement has been insanely good.
    I’ve also had chirps disappear after a few minutes of pedaling as I assume the wax is warming up and re-penetrating where it needs to be.
    We’ll be rolling out some sort of hot wax treatment/subscription at the shop next spring, for sure.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    The re-penetration is essential to the testing and why Zero Friction uses a test rig that has high and low-tension zones (just like your drivetrain). They note that this is the most accurate test vs. other companies whom run high-tension on their tester and get very different results.

    FWIW I think that SILCA drip is better than squirt in almost every facet, except that it's lower viscosity which makes it more difficult to drip with precision (I see dimes falling everytime Silca drip hits the floor).

    Reference: https://cyclingtips.com/2021/05/alli...ed-for-gravel/

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    5,736
    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgiaSnow View Post
    Haha, was trying to throw a bone to the non-queso crowd in saying the initial clean was some work. It’s more work than just dripping on some traditional lube and pedaling. But, like I said, cleaning off the factory gunk probably is wise regardless of what you use. In that case, it’s definitely less work to run wax when you consider how little maintenance is required after the initial setup.

    Re: dirty area. Not a moon dust area. Really wet, muddy area. Trail’s are slow to dry. Lots of creek crossings. But will also get dry dust in certain spots. Super humid southeast sand and mud-riding. Just feel like I can’t keep my bike clean around here, drivetrain was always squawking by the end of a long ride till I switched to wax (molten speedwax for me).


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    This would be interesting for the Silca synergetic lube. You can wipe it pretty dry and it does OK in dusty areas. Likely runs a touch more friction than Wax, but lasts longer, so potentially better performance.

    On Ultra-long rides (e.g. Kokopelli), I have two techniques that I worked through with Adam from Zero Friction
    1. Carry a second chain that is fully waxed and ready to go (this is nice because it offers a backup chain, JIC).
    2. Re-lube the waxed chain with the synergetic when the waxed chain gets dry. (Re-lubing with wax without adequate time to dry leads to severely diminished returns.)

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