New Foot Scanner App

[gregL]

Don't have the scan handy, but here are my numbers:

Left: 26.4, 96
Right: 26.2, 95

Low instep, low arch, massive inside ankle bones.

I'm in a Lange RX 130 LV, 26.5 with custom liners and custom insoles. Depending on the day and the temperature, sometimes it feels like there's some slop in them despite the full custom surefoot liner, and other times they feel perfect. Because of this, I've always wondered if I'm on the fence for 25.5.

Length is only one part of the equation, volume is equally or more important. I can't really tell you much without seeing your images and width numbers, but if you suspect you need less volume the only real solution is going a size smaller (2mm narrower, plus lower instep and smaller dimensions around the ankle) or going the plug boot route which offers narrower fits down to 92mm. Other than that, about all you can do is shim up the bootboard with Bontex or overpump an injected liner.

[vonn]

Hey Greg, I've stopped into Evo a couple times and you helped me out with a pair of Atomic Hawx Primes most recently. Really appreciated it!

I had a couple of questions related to sizing - based on my scans are there any lightweight (~1-1.3 Kg) touring boots you'd recommend for my foot shape? I've had better luck with sizing down when it comes to skiing performance since I have skinny calves and ankles, so I was thinking of looking for something that isn't super low volume in a 25/25.5.

Other question is related to some pain in the medial side of my lower legs - I think an issue with the Peroneus muscles. I find that after a day or two of skiing that the outside of my lower leg gets really sore. I've experienced this in both my Atomics and also a pair of Lange plugs - both 25.5. Neither feels particularly uncomfortable or overly tight though there is a little pressure under the balls of my feet by first metatarsal. I've tried both molded footbeds and cut-to-shape footbeds in both but didn't notice much difference with either arrangement. I didn't notice the pain last season when I was skiing a pair of 26.5 Salomons, but in that case I had bad shin bang from the boots being too high volume.

I'm wondering if sizing down is causing my foot to deform in some way that is causing extra strain on the Peroneus muscles - is that a possibility? Should I look at adding space to the toe or metatarsals?

Edit: scanned the QR code to share my scans, email is fau__@gmail.com. Also worth noting that I've mostly been skiing on 180cm Bonafides in case that might have anything to do with the issue.

[gregL]

I think you're referring to the peroneus longus on the lateral side of your leg, right? Sounds like you're working too hard to stabilize your ankle and need to go with a narrower cuff (Hawx Ultra comes to mind, you can widen the forefoot to work with some punching). Other than that, you don't seem to have anything unusual going on (can't see your ankle and calf on the scan unfortunately) other than a slightly tall instep . . .

[vonn]

I think you're referring to the peroneus longus on the lateral side of your leg, right?

I believe so. When I tried the Ultra on originally I noticed a fair bit of pressure at the instep on top of my ankle where my foot meets the lower leg - is that something can be adjusted by molding/punching? Appreciate the help!

[gregL]

I believe so. When I tried the Ultra on originally I noticed a fair bit of pressure at the instep on top of my ankle where my foot meets the lower leg - is that something can be adjusted by molding/punching? Appreciate the help!

Usually. The normal approach is to tape foam over the instep before doing the heat mold to get more space there. In your case, it's not just instep height but your oval-shaped lower leg conflicting with the very narrow Hawx Ultra cuff, so the answer is "maybe." There is also the possibility of spot heating the instep after heat molding and/or grinding the bootboard/footbed.

[vonn]

Looks like I'll be trying to sell/trade the Prime for an Ultra then, seems worth the experiment...

Unrelated, but any suggestions on a ~1-1.2 Kg touring boot?

[gregL]

Looks like I'll be trying to sell/trade the Prime for an Ultra then, seems worth the experiment...

Unrelated, but any suggestions on a ~1-1.2 Kg touring boot?

Sorry, I remember you asked that in email and I spaced it out. There aren't many choices, and the tall/forward instep issue may be a problem because boots in this class don't have bootboards to grind. You may have to size up one mondopoint size to move the pinch point forward.

The usual suspects include the Scarpa F1 LT, the Dalbello Quantum Free 130, the Atomic Backland Pro/Carbon, Dynafit TLT8. If you move up to the 1350 gram range, the Tecnica Zero G Tour Pro has an actual bootboard you can grind.

[aguo5520]

Usually. The normal approach is to tape foam over the instep before doing the heat mold to get more space there. In your case, it's not just instep height but your oval-shaped lower leg conflicting with the very narrow Hawx Ultra cuff, so the answer is "maybe." There is also the possibility of spot heating the instep after heat molding and/or grinding the bootboard/footbed.

Do you think expanding the instep part may cause the boot to more easily "bow" out and ultimately make the boot more flexy / flex diffferently? I imagine it would (though maybe might not be that noticeable) since you're kinda reducing the amount of overlap in that instep area.

[vonn]

The usual suspects include the Scarpa F1 LT, the Dalbello Quantum Free 130, the Atomic Backland Pro/Carbon, Dynafit TLT8. If you move up to the 1350 gram range, the Tecnica Zero G Tour Pro has an actual bootboard you can grind.

I'll check those out! I did try on the Backland at one point which seemed pretty snug in a 26, though bit of a shock flexing that after skiing in the plug for a bit. The new lightweight Tecnica looks interesting.

Do you know offhand if there will be much difference in the geometry/volume of a Lange plug vs the Atomic LV? The Lange is a ZJ+.

[adrenalated]

Hey Greg, scanned my feet and linked to evo using your QR code on page 18 - initials are JW and email is my username at gmail.

I've kinda ended up with a three boot quiver and need to replace at least one, if not two in the next year. Haven't tried on boots in some time and haven't kept up with what's on the market. Bonus if I can buy them from Evo as thanks for your e-help, and willing to order multiple pairs of boots and return the ones that don't fit:

DIN alpine boot: This is the main boot I want to replace. I currently have a Dalbello Scorpion 130 in 25.5 from ~8 years ago. I picked these by working with a bootfitter friend that steered me to these based primarily on my stance and how I flexed the boot, not on fit. They have always been great on length but generally too large in volume. He advocated for a Boot Doctors custom foam liner to fill the excess volume. Two tries at foaming a liner later and they never did fit right. They do ski fucking amazing but the first liner was too loose, and the second liner is too tight. My feet have gotten a little bit wider and I just don't tolerate as much pain anymore. Not to mention that taking them on and off requires a heat gun, painkillers, and me getting a fucking hernia. I could continue fucking with liners to make these work but it's probably better to just move on.

Midwinter stiff touring boot: I'm keeping my current boots, the OG Atomic Hawx Ultra XTD 130 in 25.5. They ski great for touring. I also have one pair of resort skis with MNC bindings and think they ski pretty well in the resort, maybe 85% as powerful as my Scorpions. Fit is as good as any touring boot I've had but not perfect. I find them a little short in length (had to have the toes punched aggressively) yet still just a little wide in the forefoot/midfoot once the liners start to pack out. Additionally, once the liners start to pack out and my foot can move around a little, the short length starts to become a problem. Note that I use an Intuition Pro Tour, not the stock liners. Acceptable, but not ideal for resort skiing. I've considered just using these as my resort boots but I have 3 pairs of older Pivots that I'd have to swap (and possibly remount due to the shorter BSL of these) and that gets expensive. I'm also a little hesitant to go to the alpine version of the Hawx since the fit of the touring boots isn't perfect plus I do want my alpine boot to actually ski noticeably better.

Lightweight skimo boot: my old TLT6 Performance fits and walks amazing, but are probably going to die at some point. Adding the tongue plus an Expert Booster strap makes these barely stiff enough for me to ski them. Not a huge priority to replace but I'm tired of futzing with the tongue and wondering what might be out there.

Any recommendations for me?

[gregL]

Hey Greg, scanned my feet and linked to evo using your QR code on page 18 - initials are JW and email is my username at gmail.

I've kinda ended up with a three boot quiver and need to replace at least one, if not two in the next year. Haven't tried on boots in some time and haven't kept up with what's on the market. Bonus if I can buy them from Evo as thanks for your e-help, and willing to order multiple pairs of boots and return the ones that don't fit:

DIN alpine boot: This is the main boot I want to replace. I currently have a Dalbello Scorpion 130 in 25.5 from ~8 years ago. I picked these by working with a bootfitter friend that steered me to these based primarily on my stance and how I flexed the boot, not on fit. They have always been great on length but generally too large in volume. He advocated for a Boot Doctors custom foam liner to fill the excess volume. Two tries at foaming a liner later and they never did fit right. They do ski fucking amazing but the first liner was too loose, and the second liner is too tight. My feet have gotten a little bit wider and I just don't tolerate as much pain anymore. Not to mention that taking them on and off requires a heat gun, painkillers, and me getting a fucking hernia. I could continue fucking with liners to make these work but it's probably better to just move on.

Midwinter stiff touring boot: I'm keeping my current boots, the OG Atomic Hawx Ultra XTD 130 in 25.5. They ski great for touring. I also have one pair of resort skis with MNC bindings and think they ski pretty well in the resort, maybe 85% as powerful as my Scorpions. Fit is as good as any touring boot I've had but not perfect. I find them a little short in length (had to have the toes punched aggressively) yet still just a little wide in the forefoot/midfoot once the liners start to pack out. Additionally, once the liners start to pack out and my foot can move around a little, the short length starts to become a problem. Note that I use an Intuition Pro Tour, not the stock liners. Acceptable, but not ideal for resort skiing. I've considered just using these as my resort boots but I have 3 pairs of older Pivots that I'd have to swap (and possibly remount due to the shorter BSL of these) and that gets expensive. I'm also a little hesitant to go to the alpine version of the Hawx since the fit of the touring boots isn't perfect plus I do want my alpine boot to actually ski noticeably better.

Lightweight skimo boot: my old TLT6 Performance fits and walks amazing, but are probably going to die at some point. Adding the tongue plus an Expert Booster strap makes these barely stiff enough for me to ski them. Not a huge priority to replace but I'm tired of futzing with the tongue and wondering what might be out there.

Any recommendations for me?

I'll take a look in couple days - currently at Whistler and I don't have access to my work computer.

[adrenalated]

No rush, appreciate it!

[gregL]

Do you think expanding the instep part may cause the boot to more easily "bow" out and ultimately make the boot more flexy / flex diffferently? I imagine it would (though maybe might not be that noticeable) since you're kinda reducing the amount of overlap in that instep area.

Doubtful. If the change is so radical as to change to amount of shell overlap, there might be some change but generally it's a function of how thick the shell structure is around the midfoot. Take a look at how Atomic reinforced the Hawx Ultra alpine boots recently as an illustration, the new models ski much stronger at the limit.

[gregL]

No rush, appreciate it!

OK, was able to log into my work Verifyt account and take a look.

You're in the 98mm Dalbello Scorpion DRS 130? Burly boot, if I remember correctly. The current DRS 130 97mm would be a decent choice, but I think with your 95mm foot I'd shoot for something even narrower. That means a softer World Cup plug in the 92-93mm range (you'll probably be fine with some minor punches in the 4th-5th toe area and midfoot/navicular area).

The Lange RS ZA and Atomic Redster STI come to mind, the Dalbello DRS WD would also be a contender - World Cup plug boots in this range are more alike than not. I'm a fan of the new Atomic Professional PU-injected liners for narrow ankles and heels, FWIW.

I don't think you'll find anything that fits better for a hybrid touring boot than the Hawx Ultra XTD, if you don't have a problem putting it on/taking it off (probably not with your low-ish instep) there's no reason to switch.

The 1,000-1,200 gram range isn't exactly full of narrow models, everyone pretty much is shooting for an "average" fit. I wish Dynafit had kept as least some of their range 98mm like the OG TLT5 and TLT6, but at the moment your best bet is probably the Atomic Backland Carbon. Jury is still out on the new Tecnica Zero G Peak Carbon - it skis great, but it's roomier than the Backland out of the box, and most people are going to have to size up, which will add 2mm in width.

Hope that helps.

[adrenalated]

OK, was able to log into my work Verifyt account and take a look.

You're in the 98mm Dalbello Scorpion DRS 130? Burly boot, if I remember correctly. The current DRS 130 97mm would be a decent choice, but I think with your 95mm foot I'd shoot for something even narrower. That means a softer World Cup plug in the 92-93mm range (you'll probably be fine with some minor punches in the 4th-5th toe area and midfoot/navicular area).

Yeah, I believe so, although they might have been called the SR at the time. That's what my old order confirmation says. Unfortunately my boots are 450mi away from me right now so I can't look at the stickers on the shells to confirm.
I think they had a reputation for being pretty burly but I did not find them hard to flex at all, and I'm only 150lbs. In contrast I remember trying on a Head Raptor 130 around the same time and that thing felt like trying to flex a 2ft thick concrete wall.

The Lange RS ZA and Atomic Redster STI come to mind, the Dalbello DRS WD would also be a contender - World Cup plug boots in this range are more alike than not. I'm a fan of the new Atomic Professional PU-injected liners for narrow ankles and heels, FWIW.

I've never had a plug boot and TBH don't really feel like I ski at a level to require a world cup plug for any reason other than my feet being stupidly narrow. How much work do I need to expect to have a bootfitter do on a plug boot for me? I also don't really have a bootfitter right now that I'm super confident in working with for major shell work.

I don't think you'll find anything that fits better for a hybrid touring boot than the Hawx Ultra XTD, if you don't have a problem putting it on/taking it off (probably not with your low-ish instep) there's no reason to switch.

Thanks, confirms what I thought. No issue getting them on and off at all. Will throw new liners in and keep beating on these.

The 1,000-1,200 gram range isn't exactly full of narrow models, everyone pretty much is shooting for an "average" fit. I wish Dynafit had kept as least some of their range 98mm like the OG TLT5 and TLT6, but at the moment your best bet is probably the Atomic Backland Carbon. Jury is still out on the new Tecnica Zero G Peak Carbon - it skis great, but it's roomier than the Backland out of the box, and most people are going to have to size up, which will add 2mm in width.

Definitely helpful. I'll try to stick my foot in a pair of Backlands. On the Zero G Peak, based on your initial impressions, you're thinking I'd likely need to go up to a 26.5 for length?

[gregL]

I've never had a plug boot and TBH don't really feel like I ski at a level to require a world cup plug for any reason other than my feet being stupidly narrow. How much work do I need to expect to have a bootfitter do on a plug boot for me? I also don't really have a bootfitter right now that I'm super confident in working with for major shell work.

Stupidly narrow feet ARE the reason to go with a plug boot if you ski enough (and in your case, it will probably last for years). Making the boot softer is actually something anyone with time on their hands and modest mechanical skills can do. You remove the cuff and slot the shell deeper to make it softer - if you go slowly (say 5mm deeper at a time) until you reach your preferred stiffness, it's hard to screw up unless you go too far (ski it a day or two before slotting it deeper). Jim Shaffner of Start Haus has a good video on the process. Lowering the cuff height and making the top buckle strap thinner are also simple tasks with a hacksaw and grinder. Punches are a bit more trouble than a thin recreational shell, but no big deal and it's hard to overdo a thick Polyurethane-Ether shell.

Definitely helpful. I'll try to stick my foot in a pair of Backlands. On the Zero G Peak, based on your initial impressions, you're thinking I'd likely need to go up to a 26.5 for length?

Probably. I normally wear a 26.5 and the 26.5 Zero G Peak is very short even with a 4mm toe punch. It's not especially narrow to begin with so adding volume to gain interior length isn't ideal. They do ski great.

[DerKommissar]

I'm hoping maybe GregL could help answer some questions I have about a pair of 2022 Hawx Prime 110s in 27.5 that I recently bought. This is my first good pair of new boots. We don't really have a boot fitter here in St. Louis, but I used the Verifyt app and briefly tried this boot on locally before I bought from Evo. Fit feels snug and good on my right foot, but I've found that the my instep is pretty uncomfortable in the left foot. No heel movement in either. I don't feel similar instep pressure in the right boot, but it's uncomfortable enough in the left after 20 minutes that I question if I will be able to wear the boot. It's better while standing and when I pull the liner up as far as it can go, so I'm guessing that I'm right on the edge in terms of fit. My question is if a boot fitter could help, or given the difficulty I will have in finding one (we have one shop, and I don't know how skilled they are), should I just go ahead and swap them for the Hawx Magna? I'd rather not, but I don't know how deep down the rabbit hole I may need to go for my left boot either. My Verifit stats are below. Also, if it helps, I'm a supinator. The left instep measurement goes up to 7.9 when I'm not trying stand flat footed. Thanks for any advice you can give!

Right Foot- Length 27.1, Width 10.2, Heel Width 7.3, Instep 7.4
Left Foot- Length 26.7, Width 10.4, Heel Width 6.9, Instep 7.7

[gregL]

I'm hoping maybe GregL could help answer some questions I have about a pair of 2022 Hawx Prime 110s in 27.5 that I recently bought. This is my first good pair of new boots. We don't really have a boot fitter here in St. Louis, but I used the Verifyt app and briefly tried this boot on locally before I bought from Evo. Fit feels snug and good on my right foot, but I've found that the my instep is pretty uncomfortable in the left foot. No heel movement in either. I don't feel similar instep pressure in the right boot, but it's uncomfortable enough in the left after 20 minutes that I question if I will be able to wear the boot. It's better while standing and when I pull the liner up as far as it can go, so I'm guessing that I'm right on the edge in terms of fit. My question is if a boot fitter could help, or given the difficulty I will have in finding one (we have one shop, and I don't know how skilled they are), should I just go ahead and swap them for the Hawx Magna? I'd rather not, but I don't know how deep down the rabbit hole I may need to go for my left boot either. My Verifit stats are below. Also, if it helps, I'm a supinator. The left instep measurement goes up to 7.9 when I'm not trying stand flat footed. Thanks for any advice you can give!

Right Foot- Length 27.1, Width 10.2, Heel Width 7.3, Instep 7.4
Left Foot- Length 26.7, Width 10.4, Heel Width 6.9, Instep 7.7

Am I correct in assuming you have not heat molded this boot?

Your instep numbers are high, but chances are you can make more room over the instep by heat molding it as Atomic intends. Do a thorough heat mold (I go 10 minutes) and tape foam (I usually use 3/16") over the part of the instep that hurts during the molding process. This a routine practice that normally goes along with a Memory Fit boot purchase and doesn't really require advanced bootfitting skills - I would suggest looking up an Atomic dealer where you ski and having them do it. You can also grind the bootboard and/or footbed for more clearance at the instep.

Subtalar stability is another issue - what you get with an unsupported foot isn't what you'll get in a ski boot with proper ankle/midfoot fit, but a neutral footbed is probably worth considering. Whatever you decide to do for a footbed, you'll want it in the boot for the heat molding.

The alternative to doing a little boot work is to get bigger and/or taller boots until your instep stops hurting, but they won't fit correctly anywhere else and skiing performance will take a huge hit.

[Squirreljam]

Hey DerK, I’m in St. Louis and know the shop you speak of. Angie is the Gm, but she’s also (pretty sure) a pedorthist. If you call and ask for her you should get the straight shit. I wouldn’t just walk in there and do boot work with anyone, but she’s worth at least talking to.

[DerKommissar]

Hey DerK, I’m in St. Louis and know the shop you speak of. Angie is the Gm, but she’s also (pretty sure) a pedorthist. If you call and ask for her you should get the straight shit. I wouldn’t just walk in there and do boot work with anyone, but she’s worth at least talking to.

Thanks! That's exactly what I needed. I'm willing to do the fitting if I can find a really good fitter and I know it will work, but it would be way easier to just exchange them on a set of Magnas before I alter them permanently. I was hoping to buy everything from them to support local, but the selection and pricing just make it really difficult. I still need to get my skis mounted there, so at least there's that.

Have you had other good experiences with them? I certainly shop there for other things and have found the staff to be good overall.

[DerKommissar]

Correct- I have not heat molded it yet. I was holding off as I did not want to modify the boot if I needed to return it. We do have an atomic authorized shop here in St. Louis to do the heat fitting, but I also wanted to make sure that it would help with the instep. The 110 has the mimic gold, however, which I do not believe has the mimic material in the tongue. There's just hard plastic on the outside of the tongue, but possibly it can still benefit from heat molding? Also, if they grind the boot board, do you do the same grind in both boots to keep them equal in height? My last good rental boot was a 90 flex 28.5 wide last boot that I was swimming in, so I'd really rather not size up if I can avoid it, but it would be a lot easier given the lack of a surefire local boot fitter option and the Magna would likely fit "good enough" for my level (improving advanced intermediate skiing one to three weeks here in midwest and in Colorado).

I use the currex run pro medium inserts in my running shoes and they do help with support. Do you think their edgepro ski product would do? I just don't ski enough to get true custom insoles, but I do agree that I can feel the absence of support under the arch in the stock ones.

Thanks so much for your help and advice! By the way, in general, at what instep height do you consider them to be "high"?

Am I correct in assuming you have not heat molded this boot?

Your instep numbers are high, but chances are you can make more room over the instep by heat molding it as Atomic intends. Do a thorough heat mold (I go 10 minutes) and tape foam (I usually use 3/16") over the part of the instep that hurts during the molding process. This a routine practice that normally goes along with a Memory Fit boot purchase and doesn't really require advanced bootfitting skills - I would suggest looking up an Atomic dealer where you ski and having them do it. You can also grind the bootboard and/or footbed for more clearance at the instep.

Subtalar stability is another issue - what you get with an unsupported foot isn't what you'll get in a ski boot with proper ankle/midfoot fit, but a neutral footbed is probably worth considering. Whatever you decide to do for a footbed, you'll want it in the boot for the heat molding.

The alternative to doing a little boot work is to get bigger and/or taller boots until your instep stops hurting, but they won't fit correctly anywhere else and skiing performance will take a huge hit.

[gregL]

Correct- I have not heat molded it yet. I was holding off as I did not want to modify the boot if I needed to return it. We do have an atomic authorized shop here in St. Louis to do the heat fitting, but I also wanted to make sure that it would help with the instep. The 110 has the mimic gold, however, which I do not believe has the mimic material in the tongue. There's just hard plastic on the outside of the tongue, but possibly it can still benefit from heat molding? Also, if they grind the boot board, do you do the same grind in both boots to keep them equal in height? My last good rental boot was a 90 flex 28.5 wide last boot that I was swimming in, so I'd really rather not size up if I can avoid it, but it would be a lot easier given the lack of a surefire local boot fitter option and the Magna would likely fit "good enough" for my level (improving advanced intermediate skiing one to three weeks here in midwest and in Colorado).

I use the currex run pro medium inserts in my running shoes and they do help with support. Do you think their edgepro ski product would do? I just don't ski enough to get true custom insoles, but I do agree that I can feel the absence of support under the arch in the stock ones.

Thanks so much for your help and advice! By the way, in general, at what instep height do you consider them to be "high"?

If done correctly, heat molding the shell and liner can have dramatic effect on instep height, but I can't say every bootfitter has equal experience or knowledge even if they carry the product. The Mimic material in Atomic liners is the outside layer of hard material on the liner, not the moldable foam inside (doesn't really respond to the foam technique for insteps, but "locks in" the liner in the shell so there's less movement). There are other options in terms of creating more instep space, such as cutting out the vinyl and elastic in the instep area of the liner and grinding/compressing the area, but all are irreversible so the heat mold is generally the place to start. You have a choice as to whether to grind both boot boards or only one; logically you would think you'd want to be the same height above the snow in both boots, but realistically you are very seldom standing on an even slope anyway. At any rate, try the heat mold first, chances are it will be sufficient.

I have no familiarity with Currex insoles, but if you like the shape and they are available you can easily buy another pair and trim them to match the shape of the Atomic OEM insoles to try them.

Generally I consider instep heights of 69mm to 74mm "average" in a 28.5 foot (it varies depending on length, of course). Also important is where the "high" point of the instep is (i.e. how far forward, which I can't see just by the numbers).

Hope that helps.

[Duffman]

Usually. The normal approach is to tape foam over the instep before doing the heat mold to get more space there. In your case, it's not just instep height but your oval-shaped lower leg conflicting with the very narrow Hawx Ultra cuff, so the answer is "maybe." There is also the possibility of spot heating the instep after heat molding and/or grinding the bootboard/footbed.

Showed my scans here before, but having similar issues with the new Cochise 130 27.5 to replace my old ones. With my footbeds in the stock liners, the pressure on the instep is pretty unbearable in the right foot and merely miserable on the left. If i switch my pretty clapped out ProWraps 28 intuitions from my OG cochise shells into these, it improves (very tight at met heads but I already know i need a punch there). The question is how much does heat molding the stock liner make a difference here? There is already a cutout on the tongue over the bony part of the instep, so I dont know how much more can or should be done there to relieve pressure. Better to work the liner, stretch the shell, or grind the zeppa here? Also how does the floating tongue help.
Also, measurement suggest that left instep should be a bigger issue, but isnt for some reason?

Measurements:
L Length : 27.3 R:28.0
Width : 10.7 10.8
heel : 6.5 6.6
Instep 7.6 7.3

[gregL]

Showed my scans here before, but having similar issues with the new Cochise 130 27.5 to replace my old ones. With my footbeds in the stock liners, the pressure on the instep is pretty unbearable in the right foot and merely miserable on the left. If i switch my pretty clapped out ProWraps 28 intuitions from my OG cochise shells into these, it improves (very tight at met heads but I already know i need a punch there). The question is how much does heat molding the stock liner make a difference here? There is already a cutout on the tongue over the bony part of the instep, so I dont know how much more can or should be done there to relieve pressure. Better to work the liner, stretch the shell, or grind the zeppa here? Also how does the floating tongue help.
Also, measurement suggest that left instep should be a bigger issue, but isnt for some reason?

Heat molding the stock liner won't do much, there isn't enough moldable foam in there to compress. The floating tongue is mainly to change positions for shin comfort, but higher or lower MAY also help the instep issue. Chopping away elastic and vinyl over the instep can help but is a bit messy (and you have to be careful of keeping the tongue in place when putting the boot on).

The most effective techniques are usually: Grinding the footbed thinner, grinding the bootboard thinner, heating the instep area and re-forming it with and expander, a wedge, your foot with foam over it, etc.

[DerKommissar]

GregL- Thanks for the help! After reading your posts, I went back to my local shop and was able to find a more experienced fitter and talk about my issues. We're going to work on expanding the instep area with tape foam at home first, then heat mold when we get closer to the season. He also showed me a better way to get into the boots (buckle starting from the top rather than the bottom, and to micro adjust the instep buckle for a bit more room) which seemed to help a bit. I'm pretty sure we'll be able to make it work now.