How often should you really be washing your hair, anyway? To find out this and more, we spoke with experts like Geeta Yadav, MD, a dermatologist; Dendy Engelman, a dermatologist; and Katherine Riley, owner of Katherine Jon salon in New York and an educator for Eufora.
What Is the No-Poo Method?
The no-poo (or “no shampoo”) method is a hair-cleansing technique that removes shampoo from the equation, says Yadav. Instead of using shampoo, followers of the practice use alternatives such as apple cider vinegar, a cleansing conditioner, or just plain water.
Cringing? Hear us out. Your scalp has natural oils that help nourish the hair, Yadav says. She says that while shampoo is meant to remove dirt, sweat, grime, and oil from the hair and scalp, overusing it—or even using it regularly—can strip these natural oils, leaving your hair and scalp dry and flaky. With the no-poo method, your hair is still being cleansed, just not with shampoo, therefore eliminating the risk of stripping away those natural oils. Ultimately, it ensures that the hair and scalp are balanced and healthier.
Is the No-Poo Method Healthy?
The no-poo method has an army of passionate followers, but that’s not to say it doesn’t come without controversy and a few eyebrow raises. The main concern among anti-pooers is that it leaves the hair and scalp feeling oily. Sure, nixing shampoo from your routine may initially leave your hair looking and feeling greasy, but if the method is done correctly, it can balance out how much oil your scalp produces in the long run.
According to Katherine Riley, owner of Katherine Jon Salon in New York and educator for hair care brand Eufora, forgoing hair-stripping shampoos (like clarifying formulas) keeps the scalp from overproducing oil, which is key in maintaining optimal scalp health.
Think about it: When your hair is oily, you cleanse it with a shampoo, which whisks away grease and buildup but takes away your scalp’s natural oils along with it. Your scalp is now squeaky-clean (which really just means it’s dried out), and begins to overcompensate for the lack of oil by producing even more, Yadav says. So you cleanse it again with shampoo in an effort to get rid of the excess oil, and the process repeats.
It’s a vicious cycle that may seem impossible to break, but the no-poo method helps to regulate hyperactive oil glands in the scalp and make for a more balanced mane, Riley says.
Benefits of the No-Poo Method
While New York-based dermatologist Dendy Engelman says the no-poo method can be beneficial for everyone, there are some hair types that are more susceptible to the drying effects of shampoo than others and may experience better results from the no-poo method.
One hair type that falls into this category is curly hair. “Curly hair is prone to dryness because it’s easier for the scalp’s natural oils to travel down straight strands than it is for curly hair,” Yadav says. The no-poo method, however, can help curls maintain maximum moisture, resulting in more defined curls, less frizz, and more manageability, Riley says.
For those with fine, brittle hair, Dendy Engelman, a dermatologist based in New York, says the no-poo method can help improve your hair’s bounce. She says harmful ingredients like detergents are often added to shampoos to cleanse, but they can end up drying out your hair and leaving it looking flat.
Removing shampoo from your routine means your hair won’t be exposed to these harsh chemicals. Rather, it’ll retain more of its natural oils and result in more volume, Engelman says.
How Long Does the No-Poo Method Take to Work?
Just like it’s important to give your skin care products enough time to work their magic, the no-poo method requires patience, which can understandably turn some users off. There’s no instant gratification involved, and the “adjustment period” (as it’s commonly referred to) lasts roughly two to six weeks. “Your scalp is so used to being stripped of its natural oils and subsequently working to produce more oil to replenish them, so it takes a few weeks for the scalp to recalibrate,” Riley says. During this time, you may experience excess oil in your hair and scalp as they work hard to regulate sebum (oil) production.
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