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Thread: Spoon making

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iowagriz View Post
    Timely that you started this thread just after I read this article. "Beginners Guide to Spoon Making" I might try it camping next summer. Good tips on here, comments include where to buy the special tools.

    https://bikepacking.com/plan/making-wooden-spoon/

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    I've been looking at specialized knives. Prices vary so much and Amazon reviews are basically shit. Probably going with mid range $50ish 3 tools. Then I can expand with single tools. I think I'm going to stick with mora.

    It's fun and hey you fuck up? Grab a new chunk of wood. I forsee many spoon gifts I'm my giving future. Very personal gifts.

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  2. #27
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    Aside from some finer grit sanding and a finish my first spoon is complete.
    Funny hobby. Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #28
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    Wow. Is your entire day zoom calls?

    That was quick. And nice job!
    Kill all the telemarkers
    But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
    Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
    Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Core Shot View Post
    Wow. Is your entire day zoom calls?

    That was quick. And nice job!
    thats yesterday and todays zoon (webex and teams mostly though). And yeah most of my days are customer calls.

  5. #30
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    Next up:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by plugboots View Post
    Next up:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    My sister had requested a mortar and pestle. Once I get some new tools I'll take a shot.
    I'm not artistic enough for the design on those cups.

    For those who do this. What, if anything, are you finishing with? Mineral oil will boil/wash off, tung oil smells (but I love the product), linseed oil maybe? I'm thinking of something with a hardener like rubio monocoat but need to check food safety. I'm open to any suggestions.

    This one will be for Xmas for mom. Water popping now.

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  7. #32
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    Food grade mineral oil and wax are about the only things to use on wood that comes into contact with hot food. Most people who make cutting boards soak the boards in a container filled with mineral oil for awhile.

    Here is a guy in MT who apparently has a full-fledged business making seemingly basic kitchen utensils. They sell a product that is mineral oil and lemon oil. https://www.earlywooddesigns.com/pag...-wood-utensils

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    Food grade mineral oil and wax are about the only things to use on wood that comes into contact with hot food. Most people who make cutting boards soak the boards in a container filled with mineral oil for awhile.

    Here is a guy in MT who apparently has a full-fledged business making seemingly basic kitchen utensils. They sell a product that is mineral oil and lemon oil. https://www.earlywooddesigns.com/pag...-wood-utensils
    Yeah I've also seen you can use tung oil if it's 100%, i.e. not watco, monwax,.etc..it's stays tacky forever though, but has the benefit of hardening.

    Thanks for the suggestions, this one will likely be beeswax/mineral oil. Seems safest.

    Also have read about "bathing" them in oil for a couple days. Petroleum though. Blah.

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  9. #34
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    What is the point of a mortar and pestle made of wood? They are designed to bash the shit out of stuff, and wood is not only soft, but permeable.

    I I use "Butcher Block Conditioner Food Grade Mineral Oil & Natural Waxes" to treat my cutting board and wooden utensils.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark View Post
    What is the point of a mortar and pestle made of wood? They are designed to bash the shit out of stuff, and wood is not only soft, but permeable.

    I I use "Butcher Block Conditioner Food Grade Mineral Oil & Natural Waxes" to treat my cutting board and wooden utensils.
    It doesn't take much to bash herbs and spices. Plenty of examples to be found. I think likely it would be more that made it than it's intended use.

    I mean there are far superior cooking utensils than wood, but who doesn't use wooden spoons? Not following your logic.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017T6R96...ing=UTF8&psc=1

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  11. #36
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    One more pic to show some grain/color
    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #37
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    2nd spoon..this one was about 3 hours this evening with a few beers. Again started from a rough log, batoned down with mora. Still no hook knife so the bowl is a pain. Still needs a bit of cleanup.

    Sister changed her request to a salt bowl and spoon. Might start the bowl tomorrow.

    Fun stuff. Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    Boy I don't know if I could whittle a spoon that small.

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    Maybe just go with a wooden needle and sell them as a set.


  14. #39
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    does a rolling spoon gather moss?

  15. #40
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    Nice work SkiDog.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by pepperdawg View Post
    Nice work SkiDog.
    Thanks

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  17. #42
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  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    Yeah I've also seen you can use tung oil if it's 100%, i.e. not watco, monwax,.etc..it's stays tacky forever though, but has the benefit of hardening.
    I don't think you want a finish that hardens on something like this, because it won't be very repairable. In other words, it will wear unevenly.

  19. #44
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    Embrace the burl.

    Found this one while digging in the wood pile. The bowl was mostly there, I added depth and cleaned a bunch. I'll thin it out in the handle and possibly more. It's very green so I gotta let it dry. Have a few pto days to burn so I'm making gifts.

    Hope ya like. This one's interestingClick image for larger version. 

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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    I don't think you want a finish that hardens on something like this, because it won't be very repairable. In other words, it will wear unevenly.
    Actually a few of the recommended finished, example linseed oil, are hardening oils. They harden over time and oxygen exposure. They are still pretty repairable. Sand and recoat spots.

    I settled on a watco butcher block oil for first finishes. Probably won't be for over a week, woods pretty green.

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  21. #46
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    Watco is definitely repairable but I wouldn't eat off of it. I have cheap wooden spoons that are 40 years old that have been never been finished and are in fine shape. Don't soak them or put them in the dishwasher. Dry them with a towel or air dry. I probably should mineral oil my cutting boards to make them less likely to warp. I wouldn't use wax. It stays on the surface and comes off in the food and the nice appearance is fleeting. I oil a new butcher block counter top (I only have small sections of wood) on general principle and figure it gets enough oil/grease from the food I cut on it after that. It would do fine if I did nothing--it can't warp because it's screwed down--I screw it down through slotted holes so it can expand and contract with changes in humidity.

    Walnut oil is supposed to be a good food safe alternative to mineral oil that dries quickly. I've never used it.

  22. #47
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    Walnut oil, linseed oil, and tung oil are all 100% natural, "hardening" oils. All derived from nuts/seeds. All good safe.

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  23. #48
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    "fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
    "She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
    "everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy

  24. #49
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    You guys are making weed pipes and you don't even know it.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by ötzi View Post
    You guys are making weed pipes and you don't even know it.
    I did that in HS with a pipette stolen from the lab.

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