Bumping with a stupid question. On the multi speed cordless impact drivers, how do you control torque?
Bumping with a stupid question. On the multi speed cordless impact drivers, how do you control torque?
Like multiple speed settings, or with a variable speed trigger? You can get a feel for feathering the trigger to get a pretty decent approximation of the torque you wanted. Or you can watch your socket and stop it shortly after the bolt stops spinning easily, or just fuckin giver, if she doesn’t break she’s good. Also there’s torque sticks, I haven’t used them, but they give a visual indication once they reach a certain torque. If it’s something you want to actually get the torque right, you make sure to leave it under torqued by the impact, then use a torque wrench.
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Thx for response. I have a torque wrench used mainly for lug nuts. I have no experience using a cordless impact driver and very limited with an impact driver on an air compressor. I’m mainly concerned with over torquing. It sounds like it’s easy to avoid.
you gotta use a torque wrench on wheel nuts or risk loose wheels or warping disc's, they never used to with old american cars I remember just cranking them down with an air impact gun 50 yars ago
but at some point there was a honda service bulletin on torquing wheel nuts and then using a torque wrench became common as i remember it
now days they torque wheelnuts at tire stores and tell you to come back for the re-torque in 150 km
I would just set the impact wrench lower and finish up with the torque wrench
junior was a industrial motor mechanic, I'm not sure which brand ( might be milwaukee) but he told me the new battery powerd impact wrenches were more powerful than the air powered tools in the shop
Last edited by XXX-er; 08-16-2021 at 12:16 PM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
For lug nuts- I start by hand threading to make sure they’re not cross threading then use my Milwaukee 1/2 wrench on the low setting to run the nuts in. Then the torque wrench to finish them up and check them again after the car is lowered off the jack or jack stand. Sounds like a lot of steps but I’ve found it to be the fastest “safe” method.
Last edited by Obstruction; 08-16-2021 at 04:11 PM.
Yeah it’s not too bad, be sure to tighten in an even pattern, run them on until it just as Farr as they spin easy without hammering, go a round or two lightly hammering, then check with a torque wrench. If you’re getting more than say one full rotation give em a little more with the impact to save time. Feel and listen to what the guns doing, you’ll get a feel for what right is. Just don’t sit and read the fucking paper while it’s hammering away like the assholes who mounted my tires. I’ve had a shop tell me they can’t rotate my tires because they can’t get the lugs off. If the torque wrench clicks without turning, back them off a little then recheck. You won’t do major damage if you go a bit over, just go little by little. Oh and always go more than one round with the torque wrench, tightening the bolts around it will take tension off the bolt you just did.
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I have a non-brushless one speed makita impact driver I use a lot and it annoys me on precise work or when it doesn't have enough power.
This brushless guy is on sale, worth the upgrade just for that, and the 4 speeds? Also has features like 'assist mode' and 'auto stop' - are those just gimmicks?
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XDT16Z...08&sr=8-3&th=1
There are bigger better Makitas out there but that would require bigger more expenseive batteries - worth it? Too many models IMO to sort through.
Makitas battery system remains unchanged for a long time so you can use most batteries. You don't HAVE to use the latest and greatest. However, anything that is not brushless at this point is low-grade trash.
I'm primarily team yellow as my buddy is an engineer for Dewalt and the remaining stuff I have is Team Red as work is entirely red and we probably spend upwards of $2-3MM on red a year.
I run red but I know my multi speed impact is leaps and bounds better then the single speed older one I have. They both work great but there is more power and the speed changing is super handy. I use a 12v impact and drill for skis though, all my 18v are overkill for that.
Bump in case anyone is looking for a deal on a cordless impact - I never did buy this when I posted about it two years ago, but did today. Home Depot has a promo on Ridgid - this impact wrench with battery and charger is $169, and then you get your choice of one of a bunch of other Ridgid tools free:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Click on the "free gift with purchase" to see the free tool choices - hammer drill, circular saw, grinder, etc. Several good ones, and some stupid ones like a LED light.
I chose the cordless ratchet, which shows as out of stock under the "free gift" link, but you can add it into your cart through this link straight to the ratchet, and still get it free:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...kAyDK3JT00yxg0
Pro tip… if you really just want the impact driver, get the ratchet with it and then return it. You’ll get the impact driver for $80. It’s an old HD hack.
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Electric ratchet is fabulous
Brandine: Now Cletus, if I catch you with pig lipstick on your collar one more time you ain't gonna be allowed to sleep in the barn no more!
Cletus: Duly noted.
It feels too early to be switching tires this season
My winter set are all-weather Nokians, and there's a balance issue I'm trying to sort out on those. Wondering if it could be the crazy amount of rocks they retain - more than any other tire I've ever had. Tediously picking out the rocks and then will drop them off for rebalance.
My 3-season set (Firestone Destination all seasons that came with the vehicle) have about 1500 miles on them, so they'll be fine for any remaining snow conditions that may happen.
Well, the balance issue sucks. I hope that’s sorted out.
I hear you about shoulder season tires. It’s kinda like the “old days,” where I never was in an accident using all seasons or older AT tires.
My area, we still have the challenge of leaving or entering my neighborhood, which involve steep ascents and descents and off camber corners. An issue every time it snows or a hard freeze on wet roads.
I really like the “A” setting on my ryobi impact gun. Has not over tightened once, pull the trigger and it’ll stop at resistance.
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