Official ATK Binding Thread

[tgapp]

are you guys buying the jig to just mount a pair here and there? the template works well and is free...

I have 3 ATK mounts for me

Plus 3 for friends

Plus whatever local mags want to use it

and that's only this season. I'll likely have a few more next season.

Sent from my Pixel 4a (5G) using Tapatalk

[timmaio]

How much does the brake track (like the BD Helio-branded one https://www.blackdiamondequipment.co...01662_cfg.html ) raise the binding? Same as the standard heel adjustment track, so 5mm?

It's double, 10mm

[j0z77]

Mounted on the line as I prefer more traditional mounts. And this is a little shorter ski than I ski in resort.

108mm brakes needed just the tiniest tweak. I’d not go to 120mm.

thank you Calibrit and everyone gave me info.
I buy 108mm and try +2cm or maybe +3cm.

[CaliBrit]

thank you Calibrit and everyone gave me info.
I buy 108mm and try +2cm or maybe +3cm.

Only 1 run on them. On the line for me for sure. But I hate being too forward.

[JKnight]

Great perspectives on the Katana mount. I'm planning to instal inserts for C-Raiders on mine eventually. I was surprised that the line was that far back. Around 3.5 in compared to the DW:


(the line is top of red ski strap on the Katanas)

Had to test mount the C-Raiders on some old Moment protos for the early season shit fuck conditions.
And thanks to Spyderjon for the smooth and quick turnaround on the binding order!

[tgapp]

atk jig showed up yesterday

any slc mags who want to borrow it, shoot me a pm, happy to loan it out. might need to do some sort of public dibs system as an honor system though.

[Westcoaster]

Been messing around with some freeraider shim designs. Concerned about shear but dont really want to epoxy/vhb the binding/shim/ski interface so was playing with a binding-shim locking design and perhaps patterning the shim-ski interface (like a flat knurled surface) so as to provide some stack shear strength under binding screw compression. Quarantine getting to me... I tihnk this would play nice with inserts so as to have a repeatable shimmed toe setup.

If any of you have access to cnc would be really nice to cut these out of delrin! Unforunately I cant use my work setups for fun.

[carlh]

You can likely 3D print them super cheap try fictiv.com or a mag with a printer

[Westcoaster]

You can likely 3D print them super cheap try fictiv.com or a mag with a printer

Yeah Ive already printed one, but dont really want to ski on a printed shim.

Fictiv wants 80 bucks a pop, down to ~10 each if i ordered 200, lol.

[SlippBC]

Has anyone figured out or had issues with ATK Crampons in the ATK raider C-12 crampon slot. mine is stuck and will not come out... is this operator error or design oversight?

[Spyderjon]

Has anyone figured out or had issues with ATK Crampons in the ATK raider C-12 crampon slot. mine is stuck and will not come out... is this operator error or design oversight?

Nope but I've only ever used Dynafit or Marker crampons with them and they were fine. And I've also only inserted/removed a crampons with the toe mounted to a ski and, as usual on most bindings, they needed a 'thump' with the palm of the hand to get the central locating prong to ride out of the notch. Can imagine that'd be hard to do when the toe/bracket isn't mounted.

[SlippBC]

These crampons are lighter than any of the others but gosh do they want to stay on... eventually with pliers and tiny screw driver I got them off. Curious to see what they're like to remove once mounted. Lessons learned don't check for crampons clearance pre mounting

[Spyderjon]

Check for a burr/sharp corner on the edges on the locating prong on the crampon bracket. If it's tight when mounted I'd chamfer the edges as well to help them ride over the shoulder on the crampon notch.

[glademaster]

Check for a burr/sharp corner on the edges on the locating prong on the crampon bracket. If it's tight when mounted I'd chamfer the edges as well to help them ride over the shoulder on the crampon notch.

For what ATK's stuff costs, it's disgraceful that you should have to do anything like that to make a set of ski crampons work properly. Ultimately, the technology in these bindings is 30+ years old at this point, what on earth are you paying a premium for if not impeccable quality fit and finish?

[riff]

Mine work great, i bet the main difficulty comes from being unmounted.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[D-Roc]

Has anyone figured out or had issues with ATK Crampons in the ATK raider C-12 crampon slot. mine is stuck and will not come out... is this operator error or design oversight?

got to file down that little node thing in the middle a bit, it catches on the middle groove of the ski crampon... i smacked it out with a pole a couple times, then figured out if i hit it with scotch brite pad (the node) no problem once anondization is off

[MTslackcountry]

Had a pretty big pre release on the C- raider 12's with (Freeride spacers )today ripping on a smooth groomer. Dins set at 11/11 . I only weigh 170 lbs. Never had a pre release on dyanfits in past 12 years.

My boots were clear of snow and ice. I think it was a vertical release from the heel.

When I got home I started checking the heel gap. I pulled the calipers out and measured the small piece that ATK gives you to measure heel gap and its 4.40mm ( they call for 4mm) On top of the guage being thicker i originally put the gauge between the heel and binding per their directions but slid the gauge roughly to the ******* bottom of the metal heel piece attached to heel of boot***** by pushing it down that far it effectively makes the heel gap bigger from what i can tell. This along with the guage provided being .40 mm too thick had my heel gap a little over 5mm.

Did I mess up on my original gap set ? How are you guys measuring heel gap? These are mounted on a stiff underfoot ski... I'm spooked at this point.

[lemonhead]

Huge shout out and thanks to tgapp for lending me the jig. That is the nicest binding jig I have ever seen or used. Now for the dumbass question: anyone know how I can get a new freeride spacer screw? I over torqued one and busted the head off...

[glademaster]

Huge shout out and thanks to tgapp for lending me the jig. That is the nicest binding jig I have ever seen or used. Now for the dumbass question: anyone know how I can get a new freeride spacer screw? I over torqued one and busted the head off...

Did that happen when you were tightening it by hand? If so, that's disconcerting. Never use an electric driver to install binding screws.

[lemonhead]

Did that happen when you were tightening it by hand? If so, that's disconcerting. Never use an electric driver to install binding screws.

I didn't have a bit driver handy so I used a ratchet and applied way to much torque. This was user error the screws are plenty strong, and I have no concerns about skiing them once I can find a screw.

[Spyderjon]

Been messing around with some freeraider shim designs. Concerned about shear but dont really want to epoxy/vhb the binding/shim/ski interface so was playing with a binding-shim locking design and perhaps patterning the shim-ski interface (like a flat knurled surface) so as to provide some stack shear strength under binding screw compression. Quarantine getting to me... I tihnk this would play nice with inserts so as to have a repeatable shimmed toe setup.........

Quarantine is certainly getting to you!

I've made/fitted hundreds of pairs of (smooth) shims over the years for plenty of big guys on high dins and shear has never been an issue, either with regular mounts or with QK/BF inserts.

[Spyderjon]

.........Now for the dumbass question: anyone know how I can get a new freeride spacer screw? I over torqued one and busted the head off...

Which model Freeride Spacer? The screws for the AL05 & AL07 are just regular pan head binding screws so any shop
should have a matching screw in their spare screws box. If it's the AL09 for the FR14/C-R12/R12 then it's the T10 torx head that attaches the boot support pad which has a weird thread that you'll need to match exactly otherwise it'll bugger the internal thread in the housing - so you really need a factory screw - so I'd get your supplying retailer to get you one.

[lemonhead]

Which model Freeride Spacer? The screws for the AL05 &
AL07 are just regular pan head binding screws so any shop should have a matching screw in their spare screws box. If it's the AL09 for the FR14/C-R12/R12 then it's the T10 torx head that attaches the boot support pad which has a weird thread that you'll need to match exactly otherwise it'll bugger the internal thread in the housing - so you really need a factory screw - so I'd get your supplying retailer to get you one.

It's the one with the T10 head...this is what I was afraid of. I sent moment an email this morning as well.

[Spyderjon]

It's the one with the T10 head...this is what I was afraid of. I sent moment an email this morning as well.

Jeez, how did you manage to sheer the head off that screw? You're mighty lucky that the head went as you must've been really close to stripping the thread in the housing which would've been expensive.

Moment should just liberate a screw from a stock binding and then get a replacement from the factory.

[lemonhead]

Jeez, how did you manage to sheer the head off that screw? You're mighty lucky that the head went as you must've been really close to stripping the thread in the housing which would've been expensive.

Moment should just liberate a screw from a stock binding and then get a replacement from the factory.

I really have no idea. The other 3 were fine. 4th time was the charm. The whole shim system does not have me being a huge fan at the moment. No pun intended and if I wouldn't have broken the stupid screw... I have a general pet peave of non standard hardware.