Do I need a Torx T10 or something else to unscrew the cover of the "wings" of the Freeride Spacer? I need to add some plastic spacers to close the gap. None of the bits I have seem to fit...
Do I need a Torx T10 or something else to unscrew the cover of the "wings" of the Freeride Spacer? I need to add some plastic spacers to close the gap. None of the bits I have seem to fit...
Yesterday I skied on a set of ATK Freeraider 14 bindings (not evo), that I had just mounted (all good) and set to 11 in the heel, which has been my standard setting on other ATKs (including Voyager XIII). I set the shim height on the heel sliding support to touch/be snug with the bottom of the boot at the heel. All looked good and proper with the set up.
Skiing, I had many pre-releases. Multiple times where the heelpiece ejected mid turn after a compression and then clicked back in on weighting. And multiple sketchy full releases when I found a hole/unsupported snow or hard compression. One full release at high speed of one ski when going through compression whoops on a groomed/bump run. Needless to say, I have no confidence now in skiing these bindings at this setting.
I'm wondering if the collective thinks there could be something wrong with this pair of ATK bindings. Or maybe I just need to dial them up to close to the max? I weigh 180ish, probably 190 with gear. Strong skier, like to ski fast/aggressive. But have been fine at 11 on other ATK bindings in the past. Hmmm....
What boots? I just switched from an older pair of boots to the newest version of the same boots and had my ATKs release on nothing but manky snow on my first turn. I assumed I had some snow packed up somewhere that I failed to clear when I transitioned and didn't think much more of it. I've never really had a problem with them before and haven't skied the new boots enough to see a trend yet but it caught me by surprise.
I was just about to say this. Because I did the same thing
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My RVs were all as expected, I'll continue to think my issue was a one-off mistake on my part.
I just got these bindings installed, and the freeride spacer happens to fall exactly between gaps in the lugs on my boots, so there's just air.
Anyone dealt with this at all? Should I glue a plastic shim to my boot soles?
Anyone got a source (or stash) for 18mm long ATK screws. I have alpine 18.5s but the pan head seems bigger (doesn't sit as snuggly in the fitting) than the included screws. Trying to add some shims...
does anyboby have any info on the new Tecton killer from ATK that is to be launched at some future date?
How do you guys lube and clean your bindings?
I put away my fr14 last year with some spring dirt in them. They are a bit bound up and need some cleaning and lube.
Suggested way to clean, then lube them?
Atk has a video. I just put a little extra on and clean it up after rotating the heel
How hard is it to swap different sized brakes?
I found a discount deal on C raider 12 binders with 107 brakes.
watch out for snakes
Pretty darn easy
Ok - tempted to jump over to ATK's on the new set of Nocta's - would be the FR15's. These would be be doing double duty as a powday tour setup and pow resort day/sidecountry laps out of the 'ghee. Would they do the trick OK and not be too fiddly/troublesome? Been using Shift13 on the Bent120's these would be replacing. I'm 185lbs and don't huck, all boots are tech ready.....
Agreed. I have FR14’s and Tectons and find the FR14’s less fiddly than the Tectons - easier for me to step into the toe and don’t have to push down both heel and toe on the FR14‘s. Tectons might ski slightly better (they seem about the same for me though) and it has toe release adjustment vs FR14’s.
But with the new FR15’s adding toe release and getting rid of the brake button I would probably go FR15 Evo over Tectons.
Curious about the ATK Tecton killer mentioned above. For me the FR15 Evos are that already.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but a page or two back, I asked for confirmation about the new Raider toe. The 'DIN' toe varies the clamping pressure to allow for better retention - to keep from shocking out.
There is no release from the toe.
So, select higher clamping force at the toe for higher lateral RVs set at the heel, and lower values for lower RVs.
My takeaway was the 'more reliable release' claims are that an otherwise 'too high' clamping pressure set at the toe would inhibit lateral release at the heel when set for lower RV settings.
... Thom
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