Official ATK Binding Thread

[climberevan]

I wonder how we all survived for the last 20 years without freeride spacers.

[Lord Thomas]

I suppose we mostly survived but a fair number of dynafit heels did not. Personally I'm all for stronger turn finishes from the tail of my tour skis, especially the fat ones. If a simple little gizmo like a freeride spacer does that for me, count me in.

[jacob_dbu]

I'm looking for binding freedom screws for my Moment Voyagers, does anyone know what I need? I would measure them but it's on my dd touring ski at the moment and I don't really want to pull them without having insert supplies ready to go. Paging Spyderjon maybe?

[riff]

The free ride spacer concept is definitely worth it for me. Better feedback, better skiing. I put a 2mm layer of ptex under my helio 180’s heels, ground material off the spacer and screwed it on there. I’d say it’s tough to avoid adding a hole in the ski.


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[Lord Thomas]

riff, I'd really like to see your setup. Will be down at Mission sometime in the next week. As it happens I was specifically thinking about spacers for my helio 180's

[Spyderjon]

I'm looking for binding freedom screws for my Moment Voyagers, does anyone know what I need? I would measure them but it's on my dd touring ski at the moment and I don't really want to pull them without having insert supplies ready to go. Paging Spyderjon maybe?

My QK screw spec for the Freeraider 14's is 10mm countersunk flat heads for the toe and 10mm pan heads for the heel. The pan heads need their head diameters reducing to 8.4mm.

However, the Moment version of that binding has a 4mm thicker toe base so you're going to need 14mm csk flat heads for the toes. Like this:


In the UK & Yurp, being the lands of metric, we use the 5mm machine screws with no.2 pozi heads, not the bastardised no.3 pozi heads that BF use. The BF screws heads are therefore taller so overall length of their csk flatheads might be a tad longer.

Hope this helps.

[jacob_dbu]

My QK screw spec for the Freeraider 14's is 10mm countersunk flat heads for the toe and 10mm pan heads for the heel. The pan heads need their head diameters reducing to 8mm.

However, the Moment version of that binding has a 4mm thicker toe base so you're going to need 14mm csk flat heads for the toes. Like this:


In the UK & Yurp, being the lands of metric, we use the 5mm machine screws with no.2 pozi heads, not the bastardised no.3 pozi heads that BF use. The BF screws heads are therefore taller so overall length of their csk flatheads might be a tad longer.

Hope this helps.

Super helpful thanks it's just what I was looking for!

[Spyderjon]

That reduced head dia for the heel screws should be 8.4mm

[riff]

I’ll get some pics up in a couple days


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[Beder]

Day 1 on FR 14's, mounted on Backland 107's, toes shimmed 4mm. This will be a touring set-up but I wanted to make some resort laps first.
Spent the am skiing powder and nice chopped pow on Volkl Katana 108 with STH2. Expected a significant performance drop-off with the lighter ski but was pleasantly surprised at how well it handled various conditions. Very confidence inspiring, and now I want another set for my QST 118's mounted currently with Shifts. Anybody replaced Shifts with Freeraiders? I'm wondering specifically about hole conflicts.

[riff]

riff, I'd really like to see your setup. Will be down at Mission sometime in the next week. As it happens I was specifically thinking about spacers for my helio 180's

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[Lord Thomas]

Ahhh. Perfect, I think I can handle that. Hoping to get mine mounted on some Powder Boards this week. Thanks riff

[riff]

There’s been a lot of discussion on these lately- I’m firmly in the camp of believers, especially in the world of wider skis and lighter boots. Cheers!


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[NorCalNomad]

Just throwing in an observation, I had ATK Trofeo 8s last year and the heels were very, very hard to turn. This model, black and green:

Then I bought Trofeos from TP last spring, silver and green, and the heels are much easier to turn. Not noticeably difficult. IDK if it's a thing but yeah they're definitely easier.

Well yeah that is part of the binding retention value.

[plugboots]

Yeah, ATKs are harder to turn than sticking a pole and using that leverage on my Dynafits. So what, I got over it for the 10 other benefits.

[Kreemcheese]

Day 1 on FR 14's, mounted on Backland 107's, toes shimmed 4mm. This will be a touring set-up but I wanted to make some resort laps first.
Spent the am skiing powder and nice chopped pow on Volkl Katana 108 with STH2. Expected a significant performance drop-off with the lighter ski but was pleasantly surprised at how well it handled various conditions. Very confidence inspiring, and now I want another set for my QST 118's mounted currently with Shifts. Anybody replaced Shifts with Freeraiders? I'm wondering specifically about hole conflicts.

Yes, replaced 2 pairs of shifts with fr14's and had no problem with hole conflicts. I think my boot-center moved about 2-3mm in order to get plenty of space between the holes. But yeah, no worries.

[Qilimanjaro]

Hi,

I was adjusting the spacer height with inserts and one of the bolts snapped in half.

I've contacted both DPS (I have DPS R14, which is a rebranded ATK FR14) and ATK as what should I do.

Has anyone been through this process? Can the spacer be warrantied and swapped without remounting?

Would really appreciate any advice. My local dealer isn't the best around here and doesn't carry spare parts for ATK and carries only DPS versions. There is another dealer that has spacers as parts, but wonder if they can help with the warranty process.

[Wapow]

I doubt they will honor the warranty for a snapped screw. I would pull all the screws and remove the binding, which will get you access to the freeride spacer. If you can get out the screw on the other side you should be able to pull the spacer, which will allow you to remove the broken screw. A replacement screw should be all you need. Hit the tip of the screws with a soldering iron for a minute or two before removing, to soften the epoxy. Remount with epoxy.

[Tailwind]

Alright… I’m struggling with search.

Can someone tell me if you can remove C Raider brakes and ski them brakeless? A buddy has a line on a pair but the brakes available are narrower than he needs (and he doesn’t really want brakes).

Maybe adding a Freeride spacer would make it work?

[wilcox510]

Alright… I’m struggling with search.

Can someone tell me if you can remove C Raider brakes and ski them brakeless? A buddy has a line on a pair but the brakes available are narrower than he needs (and he doesn’t really want brakes).

Maybe adding a Freeride spacer would make it work?

Yes, there's no problem skiing C Raider without brakes. I'm using mine that way

[cat in january]

There’s a brake cover you can buy from hagan mountaineering if you remove the brakes. They are helpful and responsive with questions

[Qilimanjaro]

I doubt they will honor the warranty for a snapped screw. I would pull all the screws and remove the binding, which will get you access to the freeride spacer. If you can get out the screw on the other side you should be able to pull the spacer, which will allow you to remove the broken screw. A replacement screw should be all you need. Hit the tip of the screws with a soldering iron for a minute or two before removing, to soften the epoxy. Remount with epoxy.

Thanks Wapow, I'll think about it some more as I'm not confident about reglueing it back myself. Probably should just make sure the shims are ok height-wise and glue the lid, then stick with it until I switch boots.

[Wapow]

There shouldn't be any "gluing" required. That cap is held on with the screw. The glue I was referencing (epoxy for regular mounting screws, loctite or vibratite for inserts) is just a drop in each mounting hole when you reinstall the screws. Should be easy. If you try to glue that cap back on, it probably won't stay on for long. Good luck!

[kid-kapow]

Would really appreciate any advice.

Have you tried a screw retractor tool or a too score a shallow groove in the broken screw to use a flathead? Yeah, the screw is tiny and in a toight spot, but it should be possible to remove the screw without damaging the spacer too badly.

[Lord Thomas]

Hey riff,

Which model of freeride spacer did you use for the H180's?