Take care of what’s important and when the time is right, give it another shot. Surfed for my first time last year at 50 and definitely rode the struggle bus. Getting back to Costa Rica as soon as I can and will be spending more time on that bus. Can’t wait.
Fuck no
Lake Michigan sucks. So does superior. So does New England, except for rare long period swell on the best rock breaks.
Sandbar breaks suck ass. Kids and experts can ride that shit. But your fat ass can’t hang.
Kids be like dig dig pop up, turn turn kick out.
You be like dig dig dig. Nope dig dig dig. Nope
Learn to surf in the pacific. With real waves. And reef breaks.
Kill all the telemarkers
But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason
While the Core does not know how to use empathy, there is an undeniable kernel of truth in what he says. If it's small, long sandy bottoms are fine but it's just riding the foam. A reef will blow you away.
Relative to the current pandemic, however, a nice isolated mushy beach break is a beginners choice.
Heh.
Not trying to float a turd in anyone’s surf bowl.
But learning to surf in your forties sucks.
But a strong long period swell, particularly on a hard reef break, can put a smile on your face quite easily.
Kill all the telemarkers
But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason
Trying to get a ride is easyish. Getting back out through the waves wipes me out.
Not for someone learning.
40 years olds can learn just fine. Core Shot just shows his stupidity no matter where he posts.
My buddy picked up surfing at 45. Three years into it I’m taking him out into legitimate surf. He hangs just fine. Mostly cause he does not suck like CS. He is no ripper, but he is getting waves and having fun.
What ever you do don’t listen to Core Shot. He is a racist troll.
As far as balance goes. 1) practice 2) wider board 3) look where you want to go over your front shoulder. 4) start low. 5) more practice 6) lead with your front shoulder. 6) practice.
You are such a fucking kook dude. Go back to posting racist shit. You’re better at that.
Some of the heaviest and fastest race tracks are sand bottom.
EC fires on mid period swells. For the most part, long period runs through everything. So wrong there. Again.
Man, I so prefer a submerged ledge over almost any other type of wave, but Im not stupid enough to claim
Sand bottom surf is just for beginners.
Best surf to learn is 3-4’ faces with mid period (10-13s) swell on a moderate pitched well groomed sand bar. A good day at Wells Beach comes to mind.
Wow. The hate is strong with you. The piss I put in your Cheerios really left a bad taste.
By saying sucks, I didn’t say don’t do it. It’s just harder with age and harder with Quick close out sand breaks.
Maine does have some nice longer sand breaks. But most Atlantic coastal shores are steeper drop offs and shorter rides.
Point being, take a vacation, find a nice break, and ride a longer wave. On a longer wave ride you have time to learn to turn.
Then when you come home, you have skills and stoke to ride the shorter rides.
Maybe you need a vacation?
Learning in shit shore break is a lot of time paddling. Not much riding. Analogy being learning to ski at the local sledding hill vs a thousand foot vert.
The essence of my post was to find a good wave if your older and learning so you don’t give up.
PS. I am a surf kook.
Kill all the telemarkers
But they’ll put us in jail if we kill all the telemarkers
Telemarketers! Kill the telemarketers!
Oh we can do that. We don’t even need a reason
If you want to paddle around in the lakes, go for it!
Fwiw the majority of surfing I do here is over sandstone and cobbles. The lake Michigan time I get is on the far north shore of it, and both go-to spots are rocky.
I don’t have the ability to do high performance surfing, but it’s still just nice to be out there and get carried along by a wave.
I understand the pov that it sucks, it does suck in comparison with very nice waves. But when it’s happening, I still want to go...so I go.
That lake has some fun looking surf. While I'm happy in the cold waters on our coast, I'm too soft to make it through a Michigan winter.
But you get it. Surfing is about having fun. No need to bro out about it. Some of the best rippers I Know are humble, can enjoy almost any day in the ocean and just love being in the water. Watched a friend surfing a almost 1' wedge rebound wave on his wavestrom yesterday as I hung out with the kids on the beach. He came with a huge smile. This same dude gets deep pits at Puerto on waves most surfers will never touch. He also has enjoyed east coast, short period, sand bottom breaks. Go figure.
OP I hope things are working out. My sister had lukemia I was a BM match and donor years ago. no fun. :-(
Now, to the topic. long story I won't bore you all with, but it looks like I'll be on the big Island west coast at a swanky-ass resort in Feb and I am absolutely dying to try surfing in a decent-ish wave. which I guess is 3-4ft. I'm pretty old (57) but pretty athletic / trim (run 20m/week, 4.0 tennis). I was on the local skatepark team in the late 70s and was a pretty good vert skater in the day, but have never surfed. I've done a fair amount of SUP, some even in the ocean.
any reccos for learning on the big island? Zero fucks given about looking stupid, just want to wear my birdwells, have good manners and have some fun. thx kindly MT
"Can't you see..."
I gave away one of my longboards this weekend. My Son-In-Laws Brother was in town from the bay Area and we went out to a break north of Ponto's. He had a 8 foot foamie , and I let Him ride my old Harbor. He started catching waves. I tried the Foamie. Told Him to buy a real board to learn on. Didnt realize how hard it was to catch wave and surf on one.
I figured if He was core enough to learn to surf in Pacifica , I was core enough to let him have a good board.
So, go learn.....at any age. However if you really want to go through with it dont use a foamie. That shit is hard
the best way to learn is to practise, and practise, good classes will certainly give you more confidence.
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