What Wax to buy, simple all-round one please?

[The Tortoise]

I'm a big fan of the Hertel FC739. Easy to apply, good temperature range (down to about -15C), doesn't get sticky below that, and lasts a while.

Get it while you can.

https://www.amazon.com/Hertel-Wax-Ra...ct_top?ie=UTF8

[LostAgain]

Family of 5 non-racers, so I’m not picky and keep it simple. I just buy the universal from racewax.

[Dee Hubbs]

I decided SWIX 6 was my most used temperature range. I bit the bullet and picked up a 900g (32oz) box of PS6 to compliment my other single 180g color bars.

I figured I use 20g-25g per wax, 900g gets me 36-45 waxes. And a 900g case cost me the same as 3 single 180g bars. My justification was to buy a case, the bulk buy gets me 5 bars for the cost of 3.

[gregL]

My justification was to buy a case, the bulk buy gets me 5 bars for the cost of 3.

Go big or go home.

I use a mix of Swix LF 7 and LF 8 most of the time, and they don't make it any more. Bought 900 gram boxes of each . . . also have 180 gram bars of LF 5, LF 6 around, but they don't get much use unless I travel somewhere. LF 10 for spring touring.

Supply is getting thin on these, Artech is out and Snowinn just sold out of LF 8.

[CHAIR_97]

Booger Reds

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

[TCK]

Holmenkol Betamix Red has been my go to for years. The temp range plays nice with my locale (Purcells), and is a little less sensitive to big swings in temp. Used Swix for years and I found that the useable temp range for each wax was too narrow for use outside racing/super frequent waxing.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[RShea]

Booger Reds

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

I use "Green Booger" wax for cold days- one day a race competitor saw me waxing on one of those days the snow crunches as you walk across it with this dark green bar of hydrocarbon wax. He asked what was the stuff- Green Booger? And it stuck ever since then (and I beat him too that day in the trophy race for 1st place in our division.

[AKbruin]

Many thanks to all that responded to my "bulk wax" question on Page 2. Much appreciated!

[sweatypowderpig]

i can't say i'm particularly picky, just sorta buy whatever ends up being a good deal

dominator base prep for cleaning, prep and storage

dominator all temp has been nice for most normal conditions and is definitely my go-to during the bulk of the season.

mountainflow red is decent in the spring, but is kind of a pain to scrape and way too expensive. won't buy more.

wintersteiger slik stick black cuz i can get a huge stick for $15. its been great for cold snow (not a regular occurrence in the sierra) and dirty spring resort snow. you can also mix it with whatever you want for a bit more glide for the temps.

got some swix universal on the way.

i'll give purl a shot when i exhaust my current supply.

[Dexter Rutecki]

Hertel's is trying to shut down (or maybe sell the wax business?)

For bulk wax you have a number of options- 400 Grams of Dominator Zoom, Hyper Zoom, Zoom Graphite and Zoom Renew

For Hydrocarbon stuff you can get some SVST Ultra Bulk wax: http://svst.com/Wax-Supplies/SVST-Bulk-Waxes/ (And some of the online tuning carry this also like Race-werks or others out there.

Tognar has Toko Universal bulk wax (and probably others that handle and sell Toko too): https://www.tognar.com/toko-bulk-universal-ski-wax/

Swix also has bulk packages available- Universal or their Base Prep even (Again Tognar and others): https://www.tognar.com/swix-universal-wax-180g-bulk/

I also have used Holmenkol Red Beta in the big 150g bars. It is temperature specific range - they also have blue and yellow for warmer snow days like Spring time.

More options for wax online include Slide Wright with Briko MaPlus wax (Mag run and a discount code is available) but not sure what they sell in bulk. The Race Place, Artechski (Swix bulk), Reliable Racing (has some Toko and Swix)
Kuu has 500 Gram Bulk Wax in various colors (for various temperatures or a Universal version)

Of course some of the best deals are Ebay, or sometimes if you do not want to deal with it Amazon also searching for some bulk packages if you want to find additional from other sources.

All this. Race Place and Artichoke definitely good deals on 500g bars. (That's a funny autocorrect from Artech to artichoke.)

FYI, Swix says their non-fluoro is faster than fluoro--saw the data that seems to show it (they have been developing the new stuff for about a decade, having seen the end of fluoro coming).

FWIW, I have used many brands over the years and believe them all to be roughly the same. Very skeptical of the Phantom stuff.

[RShea]

Anyone want some novelty wax (NSFW??) then check out this stuff. Not bulk by any means (unless they have different sizes available but found it sort of funny form factor that breaks the mold so to speak...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpine-Boob...UAAOSwgR5dbTVN

[axebiker]

^^ You're aware that Hertel is for sale, has been having a big sale on all inventory, and is now essentially sold out of everything, right?

Yep...which is why I have about 6 bricks on my bench.

[NW_SKIER]

Yep...which is why I have about 6 bricks on my bench.

Still available on amazon if you don't hate paying bezos

[SkiLyft]

Still available on amazon if you don't hate paying bezos

Just bought another brick


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[NW_SKIER]

Just bought another brick


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

You're welcome. I'll stop by for a hotwax as a thank you

[FortySixMac]

Purl Purple All Temp


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[SkiLyft]

You're welcome. I'll stop by for a hotwax as a thank you

Hhhhhwaaaxxxx on hhhhhhaaaaawaxoff


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[gregorys]

KUU Graphite and KUU Green (cold) are both inexpensive and seem like really decent choices. (<$25 for a 500g /~1# bar) I think I picked up what I have now from ebay.

I've used a number of different bulk or multi-temp waxes, and I think I like the KUU stuff as well or better than most anything else. (Even some low-flouro waxes.) The only time I _really_ care is when it's super saturated snow and draggy. But until last year, I'd never found a wax that made much difference in those conditions.

Last spring, at Tline, (the end of May, when they reopened) I got a couple of days in that were max-drag once you were past mid-morning. I and a buddy simply crayoned on a Moly wax and it was an amazing difference. I can't stress enough how dramatic the difference was. But I'd used the same wax other days, hot-ironed in, and it didn't make that much difference. I can't say why crayon-ing it on made such a difference. And it wasn't just a run or two before it was gone. It was 2-3 hours+. Quite shocking.

I intend to use the KUU Graphite in the same way, and we'll see how that goes. I expect good results, but we'll see. I'm impressed with it's use for temps from 20F to above freezing. Since I'm in the PNW, I don't use cold wax often, unless I'm using it as a base with something else on top.

[Danno]

Subscribing to this thread in case someone stumbles on a smoking deal. I am a universal basic wax guy, and don't need a giant supply.

[RShea]

KUU Graphite and KUU Green (cold) are both inexpensive and seem like really decent choices. (<$25 for a 500g /~1# bar) I think I picked up what I have now from ebay.

I've used a number of different bulk or multi-temp waxes, and I think I like the KUU stuff as well or better than most anything else. (Even some low-flouro waxes.) The only time I _really_ care is when it's super saturated snow and draggy. But until last year, I'd never found a wax that made much difference in those conditions.

Last spring, at Tline, (the end of May, when they reopened) I got a couple of days in that were max-drag once you were past mid-morning. I and a buddy simply crayoned on a Moly wax and it was an amazing difference. I can't stress enough how dramatic the difference was. But I'd used the same wax other days, hot-ironed in, and it didn't make that much difference. I can't say why crayon-ing it on made such a difference. And it wasn't just a run or two before it was gone. It was 2-3 hours+. Quite shocking.

I intend to use the KUU Graphite in the same way, and we'll see how that goes. I expect good results, but we'll see. I'm impressed with it's use for temps from 20F to above freezing. Since I'm in the PNW, I don't use cold wax often, unless I'm using it as a base with something else on top.

On Spring snow- sometimes it is the pollen and junk in the snow that causes the stickiness. If you just scrape or clean the bottoms, sometimes with no other wax applied you will notice a big improvement. A hard wax sometimes will help also in this situation as it protects the base. There also is a warm graphite wax from a number of the companies- Swix at one point had one (now discontinued) Warm Graphite, Kuu 3 temp Graphite - or they seem to have the 500 Gram Graphite moist separate also (at least on Ebay)?

Or as you state Molybdenum impregnated wax can offer protection and make for a better day.

Swix had some warm Silicon wax additive also that would be helpful above 32F sunny days (still can find it from time to time in a shop or there is some on Ebay also right now.

Hertel's had Spring "Solution" Wax also at one point (that I still have a bar or 2 left) and maybe another one to try and see how it works for your spring dirty snow conditions. https://hertelwax.com/collections/springsolution

The ski base structure can matter (a bit more aggressive and not just a linear straight down the ski lines) also on the warm days with plenty of water sitting between the ski and snow from the melting.

[gregorys]

On Spring snow- sometimes it is the pollen and junk in the snow that causes the stickiness. If you just scrape or clean the bottoms, sometimes with no other wax applied you will notice a big improvement. A hard wax sometimes will help also in this situation as it protects the base. There also is a warm graphite wax from a number of the companies- Swix at one point had one (now discontinued) Warm Graphite, Kuu 3 temp Graphite - or they seem to have the 500 Gram Graphite moist separate also (at least on Ebay)?

Or as you state Molybdenum impregnated wax can offer protection and make for a better day.

Swix had some warm Silicon wax additive also that would be helpful above 32F sunny days (still can find it from time to time in a shop or there is some on Ebay also right now.

Hertel's had Spring "Solution" Wax also at one point (that I still have a bar or 2 left) and maybe another one to try and see how it works for your spring dirty snow conditions. https://hertelwax.com/collections/springsolution

The ski base structure can matter (a bit more aggressive and not just a linear straight down the ski lines) also on the warm days with plenty of water sitting between the ski and snow from the melting.

Some responses...
I don't think it was pollen or other contaminants - it was water saturation. And crayoning on the wax wouldn't really fix that (contamination) anyway, I don't think.
Moly wax WAS helpful, but that same moly wax on different wet days, IRONED on (hot wax) wasn't nearly as effective. (Like, perhaps better than a bare base, but not a lot.)
I've used Hertel - though it's been a while. I don't feel their spring wax was any better than anything else I've tried. All were, if I were to characterize it, within a few percent of each other. (Indistinguishable from one another.)
More aggressive structure seemed to make very little difference as well.

But the crayon-on job made perhaps a 50-70% difference. So, a VERY LARGE difference compared to any other changes I've tinkered with.
Since I've never had any chance to try to repeat this, I'm not sure if it was simply some totally weird one-off incident, or something.

I sure don't think so, though.
-We both noticed the *dramatic* difference.
-We were not high, or massively cognitively impaired - so it's not like we both simply perceived the difference.
-We skied and it was getting more and more drag. Crayon on a bit. (1-2m per ski, max - just get a decent edge to edge coverage. I don't think we even really dried off the skis - just pop them off, and fish the block of wax out of the bag and do them at the top of the run - and go back to skiing.)
-The before and after, cause/effect relationship was clear.
-The change was immediate and dramatic. It seemed to wane some over the next 2-3 hours - but it was far better than a run or three.

The best "theory" I could come up with, is mainly based on the "structure" theory. That somehow the uneven texture of the wax on the base broke up the water bond with the base, as it flowed past. But honestly, I have no idea what-so-ever. I just know it worked. And way, WAY better than I would have ever considered possible.

If it *is* related to "structure" then the wax type may have little bearing on how well it works - other than how quickly the wax abrades from the ski surface.

I'd be super interested in other people attempting to repeat the experience.

[El Chupacabra]

Yep...which is why I have about 6 bricks on my bench.

I have 4 or 5 myself...

[RShea]

-We skied and it was getting more and more drag. Crayon on a bit. (1-2m per ski, max - just get a decent edge to edge coverage. I don't think we even really dried off the skis - just pop them off, and fish the block of wax out of the bag and do them at the top of the run - and go back to skiing.)
-The before and after, cause/effect relationship was clear.
-The change was immediate and dramatic. It seemed to wane some over the next 2-3 hours - but it was far better than a run or three.

The best "theory" I could come up with, is mainly based on the "structure" theory. That somehow the uneven texture of the wax on the base broke up the water bond with the base, as it flowed past. But honestly, I have no idea what-so-ever. I just know it worked. And way, WAY better than I would have ever considered possible.

If it *is* related to "structure" then the wax type may have little bearing on how well it works - other than how quickly the wax abrades from the ski surface.

I'd say it probably was the fact that the crayoned wax was exactly doing the reduction of the water suction a smoother ski would experience and similar to what a very aggressive structure pattern can help with... The wax reducing electrostatic friction and also may have covered any pollen and dirt that was built up over the time of the prior skiing since the last wax.

https://enjoywinter.com/read-skipost...need-to-know-/

And more than you probably want to read unless you are a bit of a wax nerd, but discussion on the second half page #5 of this document talks about exactly the things I mentioned as all possibly contributing to the slowness: https://www.dominatorwax.com/sites/d...emystified.pdf

[iriponsnow]

I’ll post up a Valentines special for a Green Ice wax discount or ya can just pm me!

[lucknau]

Some responses...
I don't think it was pollen or other contaminants - it was water saturation. And crayoning on the wax wouldn't really fix that (contamination) anyway, I don't think.
Moly wax WAS helpful, but that same moly wax on different wet days, IRONED on (hot wax) wasn't nearly as effective. (Like, perhaps better than a bare base, but not a lot.)
I've used Hertel - though it's been a while. I don't feel their spring wax was any better than anything else I've tried. All were, if I were to characterize it, within a few percent of each other. (Indistinguishable from one another.)
More aggressive structure seemed to make very little difference as well.

But the crayon-on job made perhaps a 50-70% difference. So, a VERY LARGE difference compared to any other changes I've tinkered with.
Since I've never had any chance to try to repeat this, I'm not sure if it was simply some totally weird one-off incident, or something.

I sure don't think so, though.
-We both noticed the *dramatic* difference.
-We were not high, or massively cognitively impaired - so it's not like we both simply perceived the difference.
-We skied and it was getting more and more drag. Crayon on a bit. (1-2m per ski, max - just get a decent edge to edge coverage. I don't think we even really dried off the skis - just pop them off, and fish the block of wax out of the bag and do them at the top of the run - and go back to skiing.)
-The before and after, cause/effect relationship was clear.
-The change was immediate and dramatic. It seemed to wane some over the next 2-3 hours - but it was far better than a run or three.

The best "theory" I could come up with, is mainly based on the "structure" theory. That somehow the uneven texture of the wax on the base broke up the water bond with the base, as it flowed past. But honestly, I have no idea what-so-ever. I just know it worked. And way, WAY better than I would have ever considered possible.

If it *is* related to "structure" then the wax type may have little bearing on how well it works - other than how quickly the wax abrades from the ski surface.

I'd be super interested in other people attempting to repeat the experience.

I still crayon Hertel super hot sauce in the spring from time to time to get by after lunch. In the past couple of years I’ve returned to the habit of buffing my ski bases with a cork after hot waxing, and have found that the wax jobs last a lot longer. I’m lazy, and don’t scrape or brush. Since starting with the cork I’ve rarely if ever needed to re-up with the wax crayon mid-day during spring skiing. I’ve also changed waxes a bunch of times in the past few years and have developed a dedication to the non-fluoro, Swix CH8X (red) and CH10X (yellow) that borders on superstition.