3d printed mounting jig

[tang]

Following on rf's above... yes local library (Boulder for any front rangers) was 5 cents per gram, which they estimated to be $7, but based on actual weight would've been $9.60... but when I went to pick up, they said first one is free. And they never took my info, so not sure if "first one free" just applies if you drop off >1 things to print. Very casual and friendly there. Only open Tues & Wed 1-6pm though. I did have to do some sanding to clean it up and get the three pieces fitting together cleanly.
I also got a quote from a commercial place (in Laser Concepts in Broomfield CO). That was $59

[rfconroy]

I'll try to get to it tonight - pretty quick since its more or less a dimensional change in my CAD.

What hole size do you need?
+ 3.6 is for a standard drill
+ 6.35 (1/4") for inserts
+ 8mm for standard mount drill bits

Added 295 for the "growers"

Should be live in about an hour

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4668734

[skinipenem]

I'll try to get to it tonight - pretty quick since its more or less a dimensional change in my CAD.

What hole size do you need?
+ 3.6 is for a standard drill
+ 6.35 (1/4") for inserts
+ 8mm for standard mount drill bits

Tyx! Haven't gotten far enough to determine hole size. I haven't mounted a new pair of skins for ca few years now so I've forgotten.

Mounting look pivot 18 in new renegades. Have ski bits. Not using inserts.

This is great stuff you are doing here!

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[phil_dirt]

Tang was saying that his local library cost him ~$7 to print out a jig, I charge a bit more than that.

In short - find a local buddy with a printer, and buy them a good six pack.

Any chance I could convince you to post the jig for the marker griffon with a 304 BSL, or alternatively posting the marker griffon one as a STEP file on thingiverse (or some other format importable into fusion 360)?

[rfconroy]

Any chance I could convince you to post the jig for the marker griffon with a 304 BSL, or alternatively posting the marker griffon one as a STEP file on thingiverse (or some other format importable into fusion 360)?

Feel like we're splitting hairs here with a 301 and 306 already uploaded, but if you need a specific hole size, which is not 3.6mm I can do everything in one shot.

[phil_dirt]

Feel like we're splitting hairs here with a 301 and 306 already uploaded, but if you need a specific hole size, which is not 3.6mm I can do everything in one shot.

Yeah, I figured that'd be the case. What about just uploading the STEP file for one of the existing marker jester jig files to thingiverse? I didn't see it on there. Modifying STLs is a bit of a pain.

[aguo5520]

Holy shit! This stuff is so sick. Wish I had a 3d printer accessible to me!

Maybe I missed it, but when you're using the printed template, do you guys just clamp it onto the ski?

[DigSki]

Holy shit! This stuff is so sick. Wish I had a 3d printer accessible to me!

Maybe I missed it, but when you're using the printed template, do you guys just clamp it onto the ski?

Yep. I clamp the the toe with two clamps and the heel with two clamps, then just brap away (not totally, I center punch the holes first).

And you’re right, it is sick. Makes mounting a breeze. I think it’d be even easier if you print the centerline finder that’s in another thread.

For reference, I have 6 mounts on mine + some tests and the holes are getting a little loose, but really not bad. Tip to folks - you might want to dull the cutting edges of your bits in the sections that don’t actually cut skis, I think these things would last forever if they weren’t being cut by the bit.


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[RShea]

If anyone is near a Micro Center. They have a Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D printer that goes for $199. But if you are a new customer and sign up there is a $100 coupon to bring the printer down to $99 plus tax with cell phone and email provided to them. It is an in store only deal.

https://www.microcenter.com/site/con...3dprinter.aspx

https://www.microcenter.com/product/...pro-3d-printer

And if you do the deal go out to the vehicle, open the printer box and there is a $10 off coupon for a roll of filament that they sell to get you some more printing projects done.

[aguo5520]

I’m going to print these at a local library next week, and use it to mount. Will report back on my experience coming from someone who has no knowledge about 3D printing. Looks like the thingiverse links have all the necessary printer configs.


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[aguo5520]

So, my library folks told me they can't slice the STL into the toe/center/heel pieces with the single STL file. Can anyone be so kind as to send me the split up STL files for look pivot 315mm (8mm hole width)?

[rfconroy]

So, my library folks told me they can't slice the STL into the toe/center/heel pieces with the single STL file. Can anyone be so kind as to send me the split up STL files for look pivot 315mm (8mm hole width)?

Sent you a PM on this already, but for those who are also curious on how to split up this singular STL into three separate parts using Prusa Slicer which is free to download:

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[aguo5520]

Thanks @rfconroy.

I followed that PrusaSlicer video and was able to get them sliced on my own. Was pretty easy, I just hope I didn't fuck up the scaling or anything.
I got those three separate STL files sent over to my library and hoping to pick them up in a few days and test it out!

[aguo5520]

So, after a couple days, I got my jig printed. I don't know if this is normal, or if somehow the job got messed up, but the pieces are all curved and the puzzle piece type connectors don't even fit into each other. Pretty bummed on the result.

[AlpiNord]

So, after a couple days, I got my jig printed. I don't know if this is normal, or if somehow the job got messed up, but the pieces are all curved and the puzzle piece type connectors don't even fit into each other. Pretty bummed on the result.

One option to flatten them is to warm them up and lay them flat with weight on them for a bit.

Where these printed flat or vertically? I just discovered this thread and imported the pivot jig from the original link to check this out (which imported w/imperial units for some reason). It also imported vertically and in PrusaSlicer you can rotate the object which made more sense to me and reduced the print time considerably..

[AlpiNord]

http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/Look/Look_pivot_300BSL.jpg[/IMG]

Edit: Also, having different size 'drop in bushings' for varying drill bit diameters might be worth considering.

[rfconroy]

When making paper templates and kicking around CNC and/or 3D print options, it became very apparent that it'll drive you nuts trying to keep up with the infinite number of boot sole lengths. It might be worth exploring a 'universal approach' where you can slide the toe and heel parts along a scale like the following and make one per binding:



Edit: Also, having different size 'drop in bushings' for varying drill bit diameters might be worth considering.

For the lengths:
Doesnt take a ton of time to mess with the configuration files within Solidworks - that usually takes about 30 seconds. The real PITA in the process is exporting into an STL and uploading the thingiverse, hence why I need a critical mass/I need something/or someone I directly know needs something before I do an upload.

Additionally, there are downloadable items that use simple inputs to spit out different dimensioned models, so I could look into those.

However - its an issue of time for me at this point, full time job + ski season + trying to do this passion project with Crow (see the link in my quote -shameless plug).

For the drop in bushings:
This has something that I have played with in my head. The biggest advantage that I see, is when using a regular drill bit, the holes tend to wear out rather quickly, so having the ability to print a small part definitely has some advantages. I should definitely look into this process...


@aguo5520

Those parts are real messed up. Those parts should not be warped like that, there are two things that could have happened: 1. That was printed in ABS with a high infill causing the part the warp. 2. The printed did not have the first layer calibrated correctly allowing the print to pull up off the bed during the print.

You could try giving that piece a try, but personally I wouldn't use it. If you're in a pinch, I do have some bandwidth right now on my machines so feel free to reach out and I could print and ship that template for you. However... this might be a good opportunity to spend the ~$150-$300 and get one of the most versatile tools out there.

[aguo5520]

Yea, they might have been printed vertically - I think they were oriented like that in PrusaSlicer. Not sure really what happened though. I'm not familiar enough with 3D printing parameters to know. I'll stick to paper templates for now, but hoping to give it another shot in the future when I have the bandwidth.

@rfconroy
Thanks for the offer. I'll PM you.

[adrenalated]

Yea, they might have been printed vertically - I think they were oriented like that in PrusaSlicer. Not sure really what happened though. I'm not familiar enough with 3D printing parameters to know. I'll stick to paper templates for now, but hoping to give it another shot in the future when I have the bandwidth.

No, they were printed flat, you can see the layer lines.

Big flat prints, especially with high infills, and especially certain materials, are tricky. What happens is that the material shrinks as it cools and the larger prints, especially large and dense ones, cool at differing rates through the print and leads to warping like you see. Your library probably didn't know what they are doing with that kind of print which isn't surprising because I doubt they print stuff like that very often. The material used, bed adhesion techniques, print settings, infill, whether or not the chamber is heated, etc. all factor in here.