Ask the experts

[Jtlange]

I've done this before and can't find the deets. Buried in this thread somewhere: Sramano AXS setup chain length? Differing opinions online between sram length guide and shimano length guide.

I have found success by setting up chain length by just eliminating slop in the smallest gear and going with that. Basically, you just dont want slack in the smallest gear, It has been very bomber for me.

[MCS5280]

Question about prioritizing chainline vs how centered your cranks are on the frame for a 1x drivetrain..
I'm installing some Raceface Aeffect cranks with a 6mm offset chainring on a new gravel frame with 142 rear spacing. The Raceface instructions for these cranks are extremely vague. I've been adjusting the spindle spacers that came with the BB to get the chainline somewhat correct. Its currently measuring 50.5 mm, but the cranks are now biased 3mm to the non-drive side. Is having a side to side bias for the cranks bad? Should i keep messing with spacers until i get 49-50mm chainline?

[Spencer123]

Someone probably has more specific experience with your cranks, but I had a similar situation this past summer and the advice from the forum and from SRAM was center the cranks normally and accept the chain line once you’ve brought it in as much as you can with the chainring. For reference, with a chain line that was 3 mm more outboard than recommended, my only issue was back pedaling and ratcheting in the easiest gear would make the chain jump off, otherwise it wasn’t a super big issue.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

God damn she's a beaut and holy shit the ohlins feels smooth on parking lot test. Shoulder be damned I gotta go ride this thing somewhere.

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[Falcon3]

Best spoke prep for MTB wheels?

I routinely detension my wheels, and I"m sick of it. I'm building a new 32H wheelset with WAO rims on DT350 hubs and would like to start out on the right foot. I've used light oil and silicon grease before on builds and they always de-tension themselves. I'm leery of Loctite blue but would use it if it makes a substantial difference, otherwise Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or boiled linseed oil have a cult following.

[toast2266]

Best spoke prep for MTB wheels?

I routinely detension my wheels, and I"m sick of it. I'm building a new 32H wheelset with WAO rims on DT350 hubs and would like to start out on the right foot. I've used light oil and silicon grease before on builds and they always de-tension themselves. I'm leery of Loctite blue but would use it if it makes a substantial difference, otherwise Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or boiled linseed oil have a cult following.

I've had better luck with the wheelsmith stuff than boiled linseed oil.

[Andeh]

I've got a pair of Super Deluxe shocks that I want to move a couple things between the 2 so I can keep the better one and sell the not so nice one on a bike (an Ultimate with Specialized tune & regular eyelets, a Select+ with Santa Cruz tune & lower eyelet bearing). I've read the service manual and the process for doing a 200 hr service (and swapping lower damper bodies & damper assemblies) doesn't look too bad if I get the right tools and take my time. Am I being over confident in my ability to do the bleed process? I've worked on forks before, but never done more than changing volume tokens on shocks.

Edit: the main reason I'm interested in doing it myself rather than paying the local suspension guy is a) he's terrible at responding although he does good work, and b) I'm curious to try it myself, and c) I'm guessing I'd have to pay like $350 since it's like servicing 2 shocks and I can do this for like $100 of tools I don't already own.

[Dee Hubbs]

Best spoke prep for MTB wheels?

I routinely detension my wheels, and I"m sick of it. I'm building a new 32H wheelset with WAO rims on DT350 hubs and would like to start out on the right foot. I've used light oil and silicon grease before on builds and they always de-tension themselves. I'm leery of Loctite blue but would use it if it makes a substantial difference, otherwise Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or boiled linseed oil have a cult following.

PTFE Pipe Thread Sealant from Home Depot I the plumbing aisle.
or
FIX from Wheel Fanatyk:
https://wheelfanatyk.com/collections...g/products/fix

[whyturn]

Chainring size for 10-52 GX? Seem to be hunting for a gear sometimes with current 32T


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[beaterdit]

Best spoke prep for MTB wheels?

I routinely detension my wheels, and I"m sick of it. I'm building a new 32H wheelset with WAO rims on DT350 hubs and would like to start out on the right foot. I've used light oil and silicon grease before on builds and they always de-tension themselves. I'm leery of Loctite blue but would use it if it makes a substantial difference, otherwise Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or boiled linseed oil have a cult following.

Wheelsmith Spoke Prep for me. Not too expensive and last many wheel builds. Generally get two colors to keep your L and R side spokes straight.

DeeHubs suggestions are not to be lightly dismissed though.

Chainring size for 10-52 GX? Seem to be hunting for a gear sometimes with current 32T


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I run a 30t with 10-50. The jump from 42 to 52 just sucks to me, way worse than 42-50 though that's huge too. Plus 500% range is is plenty.

[sfotex]

Has anyone tried Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate on spokes? I've used it in some other applications and
its interesting because it stays flexible when it dries vs. curing hard like loctite.

https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadloc...-3-threadmate/

[Dee Hubbs]

DeeHubs suggestions are not to be lightly dismissed though.

I mostly build with DT Pro Lock nipples, so I don't use the thread dope all that often. When building with WAO rims I use the recommend Sapim Polyax nipples with the Secure Lock system.
I think the mechanical lock system of the Sapim is far superior, and allows you to mass lube the nipples before building. Technically with the DT Pro Lock they don't want you to introduce any lube on their Pro Lock solution, thus you have to spot lube the nipple shoulder/rim interface after initial lacing.
I have multiple tools set up for DT Squorx nipples, and have access to purchase DT products at a better price, thus why I use them more.
I'd like to get a bulk buy of 1000+ Sapim nipples and I'll invest in a few more double square tools.
But I'm happy with the DT nipples for now.

[Roxtar]

Best spoke prep for MTB wheels?

I routinely detension my wheels, and I"m sick of it. I'm building a new 32H wheelset with WAO rims on DT350 hubs and would like to start out on the right foot. I've used light oil and silicon grease before on builds and they always de-tension themselves. I'm leery of Loctite blue but would use it if it makes a substantial difference, otherwise Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or boiled linseed oil have a cult following.

The only wheels that i'd use the linseed oil on are I9 system wheels due to the aluminum spokes requiring lube to not lock to the aluminum hubs.
I've used Wheelsmith Spoke Prep with reasonable success. Just put a light coating because otherwise it can flake off when you thread on the nipples.
I recently tried the Stans PTFE powder and was pretty happy with it. The teflon properties lubed for the initial build but then the tiny solid particles keep things locked together when fully tightened.

[jm2e]

PTFE Pipe Thread Sealant from Home Depot I the plumbing aisle.
or
FIX from Wheel Fanatyk:
https://wheelfanatyk.com/collections...g/products/fix

Noted.


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[XXX-er]

Real spoke prep seems kind of expensive BUT think about how much time you put into building and or retensioning a wheel and then get the real spoke prep

I duno what they use on the wheels SC and yeti spec'd but I havent had to re-tension a wheel in 5 yrs and i do regularly check

[grskier]

I don't know why I'm so surprised you all build and tinker with your own wheels

[plugboots]

+..3? on wheel fanatyk fix.

[beaterdit]

I mostly build with DT Pro Lock nipples, so I don't use the thread dope all that often. When building with WAO rims I use the recommend Sapim Polyax nipples with the Secure Lock system.
I think the mechanical lock system of the Sapim is far superior, and allows you to mass lube the nipples before building. Technically with the DT Pro Lock they don't want you to introduce any lube on their Pro Lock solution, thus you have to spot lube the nipple shoulder/rim interface after initial lacing.
I have multiple tools set up for DT Squorx nipples, and have access to purchase DT products at a better price, thus why I use them more.
I'd like to get a bulk buy of 1000+ Sapim nipples and I'll invest in a few more double square tools.
But I'm happy with the DT nipples for now.

Dee are you using alloy nipples for carbon AM/Enduro wheels, or sticking with brass?

I’m light but not typically super easy on wheels and I’ve found that I can use alloy reliably on carbon rims since they stay round and keep even tension. Only issue of course is if the tape fails and the spoke bed gets contaminated with sealant. Had to relace the Reynolds wheels on my Firebird due to nipple rot. Gross.

[Dee Hubbs]

Dee are you using alloy nipples for carbon AM/Enduro wheels, or sticking with brass?

I’m light but not typically super easy on wheels and I’ve found that I can use alloy reliably on carbon rims since they stay round and keep even tension. Only issue of course is if the tape fails and the spoke bed gets contaminated with sealant. Had to relace the Reynolds wheels on my Firebird due to nipple rot. Gross.

I typically use brass for the strength of the nipple material. The weight difference in DT Squorx is +/-25g per 32 spoke wheel.
Aluminum version: 32 nipples weigh 13.5g; 0.42g / nipple
Brass version: 32 nipples weigh 38.67g; 1.21g / nipple

I used Aluminum when I built a weight weeny set for my wife's bike, XTR hubs, WAO, DT Comp Race 2.0-1.6-2.0 spoke, and Squorx ALU. I find the nipples deform when the tension gets really high on the carbon rims, above 110kg/f.

Had an Ibis carbon wheel set that had completely rotted the aluminum nipples that I rebuilt last summer.

[skaredshtles]

<snip>
Had an Ibis carbon wheel set that had completely rotted the aluminum nipples that I rebuilt last summer.

This was my experience as well with carbon/alloy nips. Only brass for me from there forward...

[XXX-er]

I had red aluminium ( faster eh ) nipples on a custom built bike i bought used and I didnt like dealing with them IMO spoke nipples are not the place to save weight

Shop bro was always hard o gear but had a set of carbon rims he swapped from one enduro-ish shop deal bike to the next and he said they never broke or needed any maintenance

[Roxtar]

IMO, aluminum nipples are the worst form of gram shaving that exists.
I refuse to build wheels with them.

[Dee Hubbs]

Real spoke prep seems kind of expensive BUT think about how much time you put into building and or retensioning a wheel and then get the real spoke prep.

Because the majority of "bike" products are industry products that are just rebranded bike specific.
FIX is a basically Purple LOCTITE 222MS with PTFE intergraded.
Wheelsmith is basically a pipe dope, just thinned out a bit for easier application, and less mess.

If you want to pay the "bike tax" and pay a premium price for bike specific items, go a head.

[jm2e]

I used Aluminum when I built a weight weeny set for my wife's bike, XTR hubs, WAO, DT Comp Race 2.0-1.6-2.0 spoke, and Squorx ALU. I find the nipples deform when the tension gets really high on the carbon rims, above 110kg/f

I kinda thought the Squorx nipple washers would help the corrosion thing.



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[beaterdit]

I don’t think it’s from the carbon, it’s from sealant leaching in there.

Certainly been wrong before though, and plenty.