Ask the experts

[Tailwind]

A really really really heavy chain.

I’m guessing there are other options but the kryptonite New York has been around for a while and feels solid.

Bringing the bike on a road trip next week and looking for a recommendation on locks. I have a Kuat rack with built in lock but looking for something stronger....

[skinipenem]

Bringing the bike on a road trip next week and looking for a recommendation on locks. I have a Kuat rack with built in lock but looking for something stronger....

Kyrptonite motorcycle lock. Bring the bike inside at night unless you are sleeping in the vehicle.
Note: The motorcycle chain style lock is longer than the bicycle lock. The added length is bueno. And yes, that's what she said.

You can also get freaky with airtags, but I have no idea other than air tags exist.

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[joetron]

Anyone run the Maven brakes yet? I was gonna put TRP DH Evos on my new enduro build, but those Mavens look pretty good.

I ordered a set, should be here on Monday. I’ll get some short rides on ‘em next week and let ya know.


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[toast2266]

A really really really heavy chain.

I’m guessing there are other options but the kryptonite New York has been around for a while and feels solid.

My preference is to get a length of tie down chain. They're hardened steel, and a 15 or 20' length is $70 or so, which still leaves another $70 for a hefty padlock (comparing to the kryptonite price). The kryptonite is gonna be harder to cut, but the extra length of the chain is really useful for locking multiple bikes, running it through fancy carbon wheels, and locking it to something secure. I threaded mine through some old inner tubes so it doesn't scratch bikes.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

What kind of black magic do you use when figuring out which dropper size for a new frame up build? I have a new to me Madonna V2.2 frame and I would like to get a dropper ordered. I know max insertion is 225mm for the frame. No idea how I can measure my needed max extension without sitting on the bike and riding it with another dropper already in it. I'm using the link below as a guide. I'm gonna go all in and get an AXS post. Wireless brakes are many years out from actually being a thing probably, but I am so over shifter cables and dropper cables.

https://www.pnwcomponents.com/blogs/...surement-steps

I ordered a set, should be here on Monday. I’ll get some short rides on ‘em next week and let ya know.


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Direct for QBP I assume? Jenson for instance doesn't say when they would ship if ordered.

[carlh]

Measure bottom bracket to rails on another bike with the same saddle to get bb to saddle rail distance. Subtract the seat tube length for dropper extension.

What kind of black magic do you use when figuring out which dropper size for a new frame up build? I have a new to me Madonna V2.2 frame and I would like to get a dropper ordered. I know max insertion is 225mm for the frame. No idea how I can measure my needed max extension without sitting on the bike and riding it with another dropper already in it. I'm using the link below as a guide. I'm gonna go all in and get an AXS post. Wireless brakes are many years out from actually being a thing probably, but I am so over shifter cables and dropper cables.

https://www.pnwcomponents.com/blogs/...surement-steps




Direct for QBP I assume? Jenson for instance doesn't say when they would ship if ordered.

[Eluder]

Anyone run the Maven brakes yet? I was gonna put TRP DH Evos on my new enduro build, but those Mavens look pretty good.

;
The local shop got in several sets for the launch. It's winter, so no actually testing them. My takeaways from playing with a set: The lever feel is familiar and firm, the caliper is massive, the pads out the bottom seem annoying, and seeing through to align the caliper is a little harder without good light. The real question with these is are they too much power, is that a thing?? I will have to ride them before making a judgment.

Longtime Code RSC user, have a set of TRPs on the Dreadnought with Freedom Coast levers.

[Roxtar]

Bringing the bike on a road trip next week and looking for a recommendation on locks. I have a Kuat rack with built in lock but looking for something stronger....

Pewag 10mm w/ Viro lock:
I have the 8' length hard mounted to my truck bed for tailgate pad use. Pretty much indestructible with anything less than a cut-off wheel, and that takes a very loud 5 minutes.
https://lifting.com/pewag-security-chain-038-kit-3.html
Love the video showing a man hanging off a 4' bolt cutter without putting a scratch on the chain.

[Roxtar]

My preference is to get a length of tie down chain. They're hardened steel, and a 15 or 20' length is $70 or so, which still leaves another $70 for a hefty padlock (comparing to the kryptonite price). The kryptonite is gonna be harder to cut, but the extra length of the chain is really useful for locking multiple bikes, running it through fancy carbon wheels, and locking it to something secure. I threaded mine through some old inner tubes so it doesn't scratch bikes.

The only problem with tie down chain is the case hardening is less than security chain since they're designed for strength, not theft-deterrence. A typical tie-down chain hardness is mid 40s Rc and is susceptible to bolt cutters. The Pewag I described above is 62Rc.

[Roxtar]

What kind of black magic do you use when figuring out which dropper size for a new frame up build? I have a new to me Madonna V2.2 frame and I would like to get a dropper ordered. I know max insertion is 225mm for the frame. No idea how I can measure my needed max extension without sitting on the bike and riding it with another dropper already in it. I'm using the link below as a guide. I'm gonna go all in and get an AXS post. Wireless brakes are many years out from actually being a thing probably, but I am so over shifter cables and dropper cables.

https://www.pnwcomponents.com/blogs/...surement-steps




Direct for QBP I assume? Jenson for instance doesn't say when they would ship if ordered.

Measure bottom bracket to rails on another bike with the same saddle to get bb to saddle rail distance. Subtract the seat tube length for dropper extension.

A little more involved than that. The first part is correct, get that BB:Seat rail measurement and subtract the dropper extension. However, you may still have an issue if the dropper insertion length is more than the frame's seatpost max insertion length. IOW you might not be able to fully stuff the post into the seat tube. This bit me with my wife's Hightower.
For that you need the frame's max seatpost insertion length and a basic schematic of the dropper, showing the inserted length (below the nut) and the exposed length (below nut to rail).

[toast2266]

The only problem with tie down chain is the case hardening is less than security chain since they're designed for strength, not theft-deterrence. A typical tie-down chain hardness is mid 40s Rc and is susceptible to bolt cutters. The Pewag I described above is 62Rc.

Definitely. The tie down chains are a cheap(er) option that's easy to come by. They're a lot better than a cable or a regular chain, but they certainly don't hold up like a real security chain.

The real solution, of course, is to not leave expensive bikes anywhere where they're exposed to theft. I'll lock a bike to my car/ truck while I run into somewhere for lunch or a post ride beer where I can keep half an eye on it. But I'd never leave my bike locked to my vehicle overnight in a city, regardless of what lock I'm using.

[El Chupacabra]

Cycle Gear motorcycle chain lock. I've recommended it several times here. Cheap, easily available at any Cycle Gear store (a motorcycle accessory store).

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessorie...sku_id=1124058

[Roxtar]

Definitely. The tie down chains are a cheap(er) option that's easy to come by. They're a lot better than a cable or a regular chain, but they certainly don't hold up like a real security chain.

The real solution, of course, is to not leave expensive bikes anywhere where they're exposed to theft. I'll lock a bike to my car/ truck while I run into somewhere for lunch or a post ride beer where I can keep half an eye on it. But I'd never leave my bike locked to my vehicle overnight in a city, regardless of what lock I'm using.

Yup. Bikes always come into the motel room overnight.
When dispersed camping I have a 3/4" thick shackle welded to the camper frame right outside the bed. Everything gets chained to that overnight. Not much chance of sleeping through cut-off wheel usage.

[Roxtar]

Cycle Gear motorcycle chain lock. I've recommended it several times here. Cheap, easily available at any Cycle Gear store (a motorcycle accessory store).

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessorie...sku_id=1124058

Wow, that's a great price for 10mm square chain.

[evasive_MT]

Wow, that's a great price for 10mm square chain.

I paid $40 for the same one in 2016. I keep it in my truck as a backup for extra bikes or less secure situations. Never overnight outside, though.

I also have a heavy-duty Abus shrouded chain lock that’s a little easier to use so it’s the one I keep wrapped around my rack for daily use.

[snowday]

Cycle Gear motorcycle chain lock. I've recommended it several times here. Cheap, easily available at any Cycle Gear store (a motorcycle accessory store).

https://www.cyclegear.com/accessorie...sku_id=1124058

Perfect for some peace of mind for piss stops and the like, thanks!

[Andeh]

I've got a couple brake questions. I'm running Dominion A4s on both my enduro bike and ebike, both recently got Galfer Shark 203s front/rear. The enduro bike has been running the Hayes organic pads (black/106), plenty of power, nice and quiet even when wet. The ebike has been running the metallic (copper/100) pads which were fine in the summer. I do a lot of riding where I'm on short, steep trails that require near constant braking for 1-2 minutes, but I'm not particularly heavy (170ish ready to ride).

1) I noticed a while back that my mounting bolts were digging into the tops of the caliper tabs, asymmetrically, when I wasn't using cup/cone washers. I added those to all brakes. Since the marks are already there, I can't really tell if that fixed it. Was this most likely happening due to frame alignment or caliper finish (my guess is caliper finish)? I'd never had that issue prior to the Dominions, and never used cup & cones before, just flat washers.

2) How do you counter the change in lever throw as pads wear? With a fresh set of pads and 2.0mm thick rotors, there is almost no space between pads and rotors, and the lever throw is very short & sharp. By the time pads get to be about half worn, I feel like it doubles. I find myself fiddling with the reach adjust of the levers every few rides to get the left/right side feeling the same as the pads wear at different rates. Are there any other brake systems that don't have this issue, or have a better way to counter it that messing with reach? When I ran Code RSCs I handled it with the Contact adjust, but the Hayes Contact adjust seems to only move the contact in (default is all the way out).

3) on the ebike, I was getting a lot of howling on muddy rides with the Hayes metallic (copper, 100) pads. I just swapped it over to the black 106 pads, which silenced the front, but the rear was still giving me noise (although less bad). I'll pull the rear rotor again, sand/isopropyl it again, and sand the rear pads. What grit sandpaper do you use for cleaning rotors? What do you use on pads?

4) I've had other issues with the Hayes that are mildly annoying (seem to develop sticky pistons about once a year), but I really love how light the lever free stroke feels, and the amount of power on tap. In terms of the Blister Brake Shootout terms, I don't think I have particularly strong feelings about Lever Throw, and would probably be OK with a softer Bite Point. I have previously owned XTs, MT7s, and Code RSCs. My issues with the XTs are the wandering bite point and the on/off feel (although I get used to that). The MT7s were impossible to keep aligned with the 4 independent pads, and the Free Stroke was too firm. I loved the Code bleed system, found the power OK with the right pads, used the contact adjust often, but found the firm Free Stroke was tiring. I think the only other readily available brake that I haven't tried is the DH-R Evos (ignoring Mavens since it sounds like the Free Stroke is like Codes). Anyone gone from Dominions to TRPs or vice versa, and is it something I should really consider trying? Do the TRPs have the same issue with changing lever throw as pads wear? To reiterate, when the Hayes are freshly serviced with pads at ~80%, they feel amazing. My gripes basically boil down to when the pads are in the other extremes (brand new or at ~30%), and how I've had to replace pistons in 2/4 of my units.

[One (+) Sentence]

When I ran Code RSCs I handled it with the Contact adjust, but the Hayes Contact adjust seems to only move the contact in (default is all the way out).

Maybe adjust the contact all the way in, and then replace pads and bleed the system? Might give you some leeway to adjust the contact point out as the pads wear.

I have lots of experience riding Dominions and agree the lever feel changes quite a bit as the pads wear.

My biggest gripe with Dominions was the pad rattle when you're not actually braking.

[El Chupacabra]

So, how bad are Crank Brothers Synthesis XCT alloy wheels? Looking at picking up a used set that's supposedly in good shape, takeoffs from a YT Izzo, for $100. With Crank Bros branded hubs, no idea who makes those for them.

I don't intend to actually ride these wheels. I'd be putting them on a bike when I sell it, and keeping the carbon wheels that are on it now. Just curious if their presence on a bike is a deterrent to sale.

[Dumbest Known Time]

So, how bad are Crank Brothers Synthesis XCT alloy wheels? Looking at picking up a used set that's supposedly in good shape, takeoffs from a YT Izzo, for $100. With Crank Bros branded hubs, no idea who makes those for them.

I don't intend to actually ride these wheels. I'd be putting them on a bike when I sell it, and keeping the carbon wheels that are on it now. Just curious if their presence on a bike is a deterrent to sale.

I rode a pair on a hardtail and they did just fine. Though they did have the I9 1/1 hubs and not the crankbrothers branded ones. I was using them for their intended XC purpose but for most of that time it was in Southern Arizona and they saw plenty of rock strikes. One flattish spot and otherwise no trouble.

[Tailwind]

I have a pair of unused industry nine trail S wheels I’d sell for cheap if you wanted something a bit nicer. XD driver. Take offs.

Might get extra resale… but depends on the bike and buyer.

So, how bad are Crank Brothers Synthesis XCT alloy wheels? Looking at picking up a used set that's supposedly in good shape, takeoffs from a YT Izzo, for $100. With Crank Bros branded hubs, no idea who makes those for them.

I don't intend to actually ride these wheels. I'd be putting them on a bike when I sell it, and keeping the carbon wheels that are on it now. Just curious if their presence on a bike is a deterrent to sale.

[Spencer123]

What bike are you selling? I think if people are buying a GX build mid-range bike for 2000-2500ish they will not be. If I was buying somebodies super fancy sweet build for 4-5000 then they might notice that as being a bit off.

So, how bad are Crank Brothers Synthesis XCT alloy wheels? Looking at picking up a used set that's supposedly in good shape, takeoffs from a YT Izzo, for $100. With Crank Bros branded hubs, no idea who makes those for them.



I don't intend to actually ride these wheels. I'd be putting them on a bike when I sell it, and keeping the carbon wheels that are on it now. Just curious if their presence on a bike is a deterrent to sale.

[El Chupacabra]

Not selling it yet, but kind of shopping around - maybe for a frameset and swap everything over, maybe complete bike. It's a Devinci Marshall carbon from 2018, nice parts, but not a terribly expensive bike. (Not the same as the current aluminum Marshall, which is kind of a lower price point FS bike for Devinci.). It's close to a Django.

[El Chupacabra]

I have a pair of unused industry nine trail S wheels I’d sell for cheap if you wanted something a bit nicer. XD driver. Take offs.

Might get extra resale… but depends on the bike and buyer.

Thanks, but the bike has a HG 1x11 setup currently, and would likely be sold with that too. The Crank Bros wheelset I'm considering has HG.

[Andeh]

Maybe adjust the contact all the way in, and then replace pads and bleed the system? Might give you some leeway to adjust the contact point out as the pads wear.

I have lots of experience riding Dominions and agree the lever feel changes quite a bit as the pads wear.

My biggest gripe with Dominions was the pad rattle when you're not actually braking.

So following my post, I also emailed Hayes CS asking if they had any tips regarding the lever feel change. This is what they said:
"This sounds like it's bleed related - if these were mine I'd rebleed and snug those fittings a little extra with a pliers. It'll make sure there's a good seal on the tapered seat!

Also after bleeding - pull the caliper/thick bleed block. Install the pads and slide in the thick end of the pad spacer. Pull and hold pressure on the lever for 5-10 seconds. This will bias the seals to the rotor and helps give a better feel."

I then checked all 4 of my hose nuts with a torque wrench, and every single one of them needed quite a bit of tightening to get up to the specified 8n-m of torque. The best one only needed about 3/4 of a turn, the worst needed at least 3 full turns and probably advanced a solid 1-2mm. Shame on me for not using a torque wrench in the first place! I'd just done them up by hand, probably somewhat cautiously after being traumatized by working on plastic MCs before (Magura).

On every brake I've owned, I always slightly bend out the pad springs with a flathead screwdriver and never get any rattle.