I've had a bikeyoke divine sl for 3-4 years now. One of the lightest droppers out there, has been reliable, easy to work on, doesn't need expensive special tools to take apart. Have rebuilt it fully once and done two "lower services" so far.
I've had a bikeyoke divine sl for 3-4 years now. One of the lightest droppers out there, has been reliable, easy to work on, doesn't need expensive special tools to take apart. Have rebuilt it fully once and done two "lower services" so far.
I say that to every kid in their 20's that I ride with. They don't know how lucky they are and maybe the same for us when speaking with 80-90 yr olds. Same with skis and snowboards.
So I was having a hell of a time getting my bike to shift nicely and run quietly in the 50 and 52. New cable, housing, cassette, chainring, chain, hanger, X01 derailleur. Only thing old was the shifter. Take it to the shop because I'm just done...pissed...wtf! He says my chain is not great and I'm like it's freaking new-ish...maybe 8-10 rides. He says GX chains kinda suck. I buy an XX1 chain and the freaking thing shifts like a dream and is quiet. No idea it made that big of a difference.
The transmission stuff looks pretty interesting. $$$ but seems bomber.
Learned that lesson when I bought my current bike. Guy I bought it from only put a few rides on it before selling it, but had replaced the stock chain with an XO chain. NX everything else plus X0 chain got me almost 3 years without needing to replace anything. Spend the little bit extra on the better chain. On top of better shifting, it'll make all the other parts last longer, too.
Classic: I'm gonna save money fixing up this 10 year bike aka spend 50 hours dicking around on archaic design and obscure parts lol. Bike had broken/shitty XT brakes. I'm swapping over Codes. Being 2x the left shifter was ispec mounted to the brake so now I can't mount the shifter anymore. Also, can't run the new dropper remote I got because I forgot you can't run a standard remote and a front/left shifter. And there are separate lockouts for front and rear shock lol. Crazy amount of shit on the bars. Guess I have to use a top down remote and can't unhook the rear shock lockout because that requires a new shock lever which seems tough to find.
/rant
I had NX on my Bullit but i was also replacing the chains with more expensive X01, I would get maybe 1700kms of low speed single track and replace at .75 so I ran 3 chains and then replaced the the whole driven train
NX was pretty cheap to replace cuz its all steel being an Eeb the NX would shift with a pretty big clunk but it hung in and I only broke 1 chain
the new Eeb is using the T type which shifts quieter
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
That thing looks cool.
I'd be pretty tempted to keep the dropper lever in the normal spot and do something weird with the front shifter. I think I'd use the dropper considerably more than the shifter. Like maybe pick up a cheap thumb shifter and mount it on top of the bar.
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Ahh, that is a good idea. When I first pedaled around on it the other day the dropper remote on the right was fucking me up. Kept instintively reaching for it with my left thumb. I will be in the big gear at all times when going downhill obviously. I do really need the dropper in the normal location on the left side.</p>
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? I just bought an XX1 for 65.99. Admittedly I still thought that was too much for a chain, but it worked. This mtb, ski, snowboard shite is an expensive habit.
XT/Ultegra chains for me. Buy them local to have a better chance at avoiding counterfeit.
OK experts. Can crank spindle interfaces and/or threaded bottom bracket shell frame inserts wear enough to develop play (crank spindle rocking slightly) over time?
My specific situation... Gravel carbon frame with an T47 threaded bottom bracket insert, Praxis crankset, Variety of BBs, usually Praxis non-ceramic, because they have OK seals and are relatively cheap. I'm used to regularly replacing bottom brackets about 2x/yr, every couple thousand miles or so, usually due to bearings getting shot from wet riding and getting tired of repacking bearings. Sometimes some play develops also... at which time I'll pull crank, pull BB cups, grease, reinstall, reinstall crank etc. Usually gets rid of play. Last couple cycles I have not been able to completely get rid of the play. Brand new butter smooth BB install last night, pulled and reinstalled 2x to make certain it's seated correctly, and still some slight crank play. Better than before the new BB, but still there, noticeable, when hand loading cranks from side to side. I've been considering treating myself to a new crankset but would be bummed spending the $$$ and still having play.
The X01 chain I had fail didnt actulay break it started coming apart and shifting poorly for at least a couple of rides so I was wankng about with the der adjustment but I didnt notice until I inspected closely to see it was hanging on by one plate
so I was impressed by how X01 hung in there AND so inspect your chain ALSO I have never paid 140$ for an X01 even in Canada they are more like 80$
Last edited by XXX-er; 06-13-2025 at 11:10 AM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
It's a bummer when the lbs doesn't stock what you want. It's all about turns and earns, hence the online dominance. I support my lbs as much as possible but they even tell me to go online and grab it.
A shop like Jenson and others were brilliant to get an online storefeont to support their lbs. Worldwide cyclery just said their Ketl clothing line is bigger than Worldwide cyclery. Another guy launching online with brick and mortar too.
Running a business is tough, especially when your audience is based on discretionary spends. Your market needs depth.
School me on gravel tubeless pressures. I've run MTB tubeless for years. Run 22psi on 2.3s and never have problems.
New gravel bike on 42s, I tried 25psi and immediately burped them on first rocky downhill 100 yards. Of course, I can experiment and up the pressures, but was I that far off at 25? I'm normally very light on tires and picking a good line, maybe just bad luck, and 25 should be close?
https://silca.cc/pages/pro-tire-pressure-calculator
I punch in:
195lbs (bike and rider)
Category 2 Gravel, fast single track
700c tires, 42mm wide, High performance with tubeless
= 36 Rear, 34.5 Front
Try your specs in the link, and round down a bit.
Thanks Dee, I forgot about that calculator
Recs for "good enough" wheels (or rims) for a previous gen Norco Sight? I ride this thing everywhere. Mostly pedal-y CB singletrack, but some bike park, and usually one credit card bikepacking trip per season. Managed to coax the stock E13s along until smoking the front yesterday, and it's probably time anyway. The rear has looked rough for a bit. I'm light and not a hammer, but do occasionally pick a dumb guy line or two. Open to stock takeoffs that work great, carbon (never tried) or aluminum, wheelset or rim. Value above all else. Never built a wheel but have done just about every other bike maintenance job and not afraid to try. Stock hubs are DT 370s and I've had no complaints. Not an engagement freak.
Reserve 30 wheels are 49% off on steep and cheap right now. That's a solid wheelset at a solid price.
Reserve 30 v2 DT Swiss 29in Boost Wheelset - Bike https://share.google/E2dSCplIq9Jiz8RZA
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Anyone have experience with derailleur hanger extenders?
I’m looking to cheaply ease up the gearing on my older Felt: It has Ten speed Ultegra with an Eleven-Twenty Three rear cassette and Fifty-Thirty Six crank up front. I’m assuming i have a short throw RD. Looking to get an Eleven-Thirty Two or Thirty Four shimano cassette and a knock off extender. Shimano cassettes look cheap enough, unless someone knows a good, same-weight knockoff? Thoughts?
Out of whack brake post mounts on rear triangle?
My new to me 10 year old Trek Fuel EX (actually kind of a rad bike. Took it on a 17 mile 3500ft slog yesterday and the bike does amazingly well on what most would consider "black" technical backcountry DH....climbs like a dream obviously. 27.5 pounds) seems to have a fucked up something. No amount of tinkering can get the rear caliper to center properly over the rear rotor. It wants to rub on the non drive side of the rotor.
New pads, new rotor, bled 2x Sram Codes....It's like the actual mount is not perpendicular to the rotor face. Last 1/8 turn on the caliper post bolts moved the caliper inward/toward the driveside.
Actually took a file and very lightly cleaned off the top of each post to make sure they seemed flat. Really don't know what else it could be. I imagine once the pads wear out a bit there will be just enough room in the system to not rub constantly. It's not just a little rub, its so much that the wheel barely does a full rotation of free spin.
Seems less common these days but a lot of frames have that issue and sometimes forks too. A good shop should have the facing tool. Had it done here in Salt Lake on two of our Canfields, the posts were straight but just a bit too tall.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air
Before you face the post mounts (which may very well be the issue), try some new / different bolts. Sometimes the washers can get smashed into the caliper in a way where they only want to sit a particular way. So then every time you tighten the bolt, it'll skew the caliper so that it meshes with whatever orientation the washer happens to be in.
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10yrs old is probably not thru axle, correct?
Couldn't be something with the hub or skewer?
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