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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #14876
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Missoula
    Posts
    2,186
    I've had a bikeyoke divine sl for 3-4 years now. One of the lightest droppers out there, has been reliable, easy to work on, doesn't need expensive special tools to take apart. Have rebuilt it fully once and done two "lower services" so far.

  2. #14877
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    slc
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    19,173
    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    I guess it’s time for us all to cast aside our collective PTPD (past traumatic post disasters) and celebrate the new world of reliable and serviceable droppers. Get the one that gives you happy feelings.
    Everything is amazing these days, really. What a time to be alive.

  3. #14878
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    9,802
    <p>
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Everything is amazing these days, really. What a time to be alive.
    </p>
    <p>
    A friend and I were remarking the other day that it would have been amazing to have these bikes 30+ years ago when we started.&nbsp;</p>

  4. #14879
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    9,340
    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    A friend and I were remarking the other day that it would have been amazing to have these bikes 30+ years ago when we started
    I say that to every kid in their 20's that I ride with. They don't know how lucky they are and maybe the same for us when speaking with 80-90 yr olds. Same with skis and snowboards.

    So I was having a hell of a time getting my bike to shift nicely and run quietly in the 50 and 52. New cable, housing, cassette, chainring, chain, hanger, X01 derailleur. Only thing old was the shifter. Take it to the shop because I'm just done...pissed...wtf! He says my chain is not great and I'm like it's freaking new-ish...maybe 8-10 rides. He says GX chains kinda suck. I buy an XX1 chain and the freaking thing shifts like a dream and is quiet. No idea it made that big of a difference.

    The transmission stuff looks pretty interesting. $$$ but seems bomber.

  5. #14880
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    167
    Learned that lesson when I bought my current bike. Guy I bought it from only put a few rides on it before selling it, but had replaced the stock chain with an XO chain. NX everything else plus X0 chain got me almost 3 years without needing to replace anything. Spend the little bit extra on the better chain. On top of better shifting, it&#39;ll make all the other parts last longer, too.

  6. #14881
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,296
    Classic: I'm gonna save money fixing up this 10 year bike aka spend 50 hours dicking around on archaic design and obscure parts lol. Bike had broken/shitty XT brakes. I'm swapping over Codes. Being 2x the left shifter was ispec mounted to the brake so now I can't mount the shifter anymore. Also, can't run the new dropper remote I got because I forgot you can't run a standard remote and a front/left shifter. And there are separate lockouts for front and rear shock lol. Crazy amount of shit on the bars. Guess I have to use a top down remote and can't unhook the rear shock lockout because that requires a new shock lever which seems tough to find.

    /rant

  7. #14882
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,296

  8. #14883
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    33,842
    I had NX on my Bullit but i was also replacing the chains with more expensive X01, I would get maybe 1700kms of low speed single track and replace at .75 so I ran 3 chains and then replaced the the whole driven train

    NX was pretty cheap to replace cuz its all steel being an Eeb the NX would shift with a pretty big clunk but it hung in and I only broke 1 chain

    the new Eeb is using the T type which shifts quieter
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  9. #14884
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
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    14,875
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Classic: I'm gonna save money fixing up this 10 year bike aka spend 50 hours dicking around on archaic design and obscure parts lol. Bike had broken/shitty XT brakes. I'm swapping over Codes. Being 2x the left shifter was ispec mounted to the brake so now I can't mount the shifter anymore. Also, can't run the new dropper remote I got because I forgot you can't run a standard remote and a front/left shifter. And there are separate lockouts for front and rear shock lol. Crazy amount of shit on the bars. Guess I have to use a top down remote and can't unhook the rear shock lockout because that requires a new shock lever which seems tough to find.

    /rant
    That thing looks cool.

    I'd be pretty tempted to keep the dropper lever in the normal spot and do something weird with the front shifter. I think I'd use the dropper considerably more than the shifter. Like maybe pick up a cheap thumb shifter and mount it on top of the bar.

    Sent from my SM-S931U1 using Tapatalk

  10. #14885
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,296
    <p>
    Ahh, that is a good idea. When I first pedaled around on it the other day the dropper remote on the right was fucking me up. Kept instintively reaching for it with my left thumb. I will be in the big gear at all times when going downhill obviously. I do really need the dropper in the normal location on the left side.</p>
    <p>
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    <p>
    &nbsp;</p>

  11. #14886
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    The better LA
    Posts
    2,819
    I put the top of the line chains on everything, Of course I am spending $65 on XTR. Not $140 on XX1
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  12. #14887
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    9,340
    ? I just bought an XX1 for 65.99. Admittedly I still thought that was too much for a chain, but it worked. This mtb, ski, snowboard shite is an expensive habit.

  13. #14888
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    the most beautiful place in the whole wide world
    Posts
    2,729
    XT/Ultegra chains for me. Buy them local to have a better chance at avoiding counterfeit.
    OK experts. Can crank spindle interfaces and/or threaded bottom bracket shell frame inserts wear enough to develop play (crank spindle rocking slightly) over time?
    My specific situation... Gravel carbon frame with an T47 threaded bottom bracket insert, Praxis crankset, Variety of BBs, usually Praxis non-ceramic, because they have OK seals and are relatively cheap. I&#39;m used to regularly replacing bottom brackets about 2x/yr, every couple thousand miles or so, usually due to bearings getting shot from wet riding and getting tired of repacking bearings. Sometimes some play develops also... at which time I&#39;ll pull crank, pull BB cups, grease, reinstall, reinstall crank etc. Usually gets rid of play. Last couple cycles I have not been able to completely get rid of the play. Brand new butter smooth BB install last night, pulled and reinstalled 2x to make certain it&#39;s seated correctly, and still some slight crank play. Better than before the new BB, but still there, noticeable, when hand loading cranks from side to side. I&#39;ve been considering treating myself to a new crankset but would be bummed spending the $$$ and still having play.

  14. #14889
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    33,842
    The X01 chain I had fail didnt actulay break it started coming apart and shifting poorly for at least a couple of rides so I was wankng about with the der adjustment but I didnt notice until I inspected closely to see it was hanging on by one plate

    so I was impressed by how X01 hung in there AND so inspect your chain ALSO I have never paid 140$ for an X01 even in Canada they are more like 80$
    Last edited by XXX-er; 06-13-2025 at 11:10 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  15. #14890
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaka View Post
    XT/Ultegra chains for me. Buy them local to have a better chance at avoiding counterfeit.
    It's a bummer when the lbs doesn't stock what you want. It's all about turns and earns, hence the online dominance. I support my lbs as much as possible but they even tell me to go online and grab it.

    A shop like Jenson and others were brilliant to get an online storefeont to support their lbs. Worldwide cyclery just said their Ketl clothing line is bigger than Worldwide cyclery. Another guy launching online with brick and mortar too.

    Running a business is tough, especially when your audience is based on discretionary spends. Your market needs depth.

  16. #14891
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1,862
    School me on gravel tubeless pressures. I've run MTB tubeless for years. Run 22psi on 2.3s and never have problems.

    New gravel bike on 42s, I tried 25psi and immediately burped them on first rocky downhill 100 yards. Of course, I can experiment and up the pressures, but was I that far off at 25? I'm normally very light on tires and picking a good line, maybe just bad luck, and 25 should be close?

  17. #14892
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    5,096
    https://silca.cc/pages/pro-tire-pressure-calculator
    I punch in:
    195lbs (bike and rider)
    Category 2 Gravel, fast single track
    700c tires, 42mm wide, High performance with tubeless
    = 36 Rear, 34.5 Front
    Try your specs in the link, and round down a bit.

  18. #14893
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1,862
    Thanks Dee, I forgot about that calculator

  19. #14894
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    1,613
    Recs for "good enough" wheels (or rims) for a previous gen Norco Sight? I ride this thing everywhere. Mostly pedal-y CB singletrack, but some bike park, and usually one credit card bikepacking trip per season. Managed to coax the stock E13s along until smoking the front yesterday, and it's probably time anyway. The rear has looked rough for a bit. I'm light and not a hammer, but do occasionally pick a dumb guy line or two. Open to stock takeoffs that work great, carbon (never tried) or aluminum, wheelset or rim. Value above all else. Never built a wheel but have done just about every other bike maintenance job and not afraid to try. Stock hubs are DT 370s and I've had no complaints. Not an engagement freak.

  20. #14895
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,875
    Reserve 30 wheels are 49% off on steep and cheap right now. That's a solid wheelset at a solid price.

    Reserve 30 v2 DT Swiss 29in Boost Wheelset - Bike https://share.google/E2dSCplIq9Jiz8RZA

    Sent from my SM-S931U1 using Tapatalk

  21. #14896
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    3,379

    Ask the experts

    Anyone have experience with derailleur hanger extenders?
    I’m looking to cheaply ease up the gearing on my older Felt: It has Ten speed Ultegra with an Eleven-Twenty Three rear cassette and Fifty-Thirty Six crank up front. I’m assuming i have a short throw RD. Looking to get an Eleven-Thirty Two or Thirty Four shimano cassette and a knock off extender. Shimano cassettes look cheap enough, unless someone knows a good, same-weight knockoff? Thoughts?

  22. #14897
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,296
    Out of whack brake post mounts on rear triangle?

    My new to me 10 year old Trek Fuel EX (actually kind of a rad bike. Took it on a 17 mile 3500ft slog yesterday and the bike does amazingly well on what most would consider "black" technical backcountry DH....climbs like a dream obviously. 27.5 pounds) seems to have a fucked up something. No amount of tinkering can get the rear caliper to center properly over the rear rotor. It wants to rub on the non drive side of the rotor.

    New pads, new rotor, bled 2x Sram Codes....It's like the actual mount is not perpendicular to the rotor face. Last 1/8 turn on the caliper post bolts moved the caliper inward/toward the driveside.

    Actually took a file and very lightly cleaned off the top of each post to make sure they seemed flat. Really don't know what else it could be. I imagine once the pads wear out a bit there will be just enough room in the system to not rub constantly. It's not just a little rub, its so much that the wheel barely does a full rotation of free spin.

  23. #14898
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Land of Brine Shrimp and Magic Underwear
    Posts
    7,038
    Seems less common these days but a lot of frames have that issue and sometimes forks too. A good shop should have the facing tool. Had it done here in Salt Lake on two of our Canfields, the posts were straight but just a bit too tall.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air

  24. #14899
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,875
    Before you face the post mounts (which may very well be the issue), try some new / different bolts. Sometimes the washers can get smashed into the caliper in a way where they only want to sit a particular way. So then every time you tighten the bolt, it'll skew the caliper so that it meshes with whatever orientation the washer happens to be in.

    Sent from my SM-S931U1 using Tapatalk

  25. #14900
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1,862
    10yrs old is probably not thru axle, correct?

    Couldn't be something with the hub or skewer?

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