Ask the experts

[skinipenem]

Would someone/WRGplease Clue me in on what WRG is doing with 609 etc.... ? Thx


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[toast2266]

Would someone/WRGplease Clue me in on what WRG is doing with 609 etc.... ? Thx!


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The guerilla gravity frames have removable headset insert cups that can be flipped to change the reach +/- 10mm. The cups aren't a super tight fit, and over time they start to creak, so he's putting a retaining compound in there to try to silence things.

[skinipenem]

The guerilla gravity frames have removable headset insert cups that can be flipped to change the reach +/- 10mm. The cups aren't a super tight fit, and over time they start to creak, so he's putting a retaining compound in there to try to silence things.

Thank you. I was unaware of retaining compounds.

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[mmmm...pow!]

Also want to grab new matched Fox 34 fork sticker . Slick vs Stikred vs others? I looked at the full Ibis frame logos and such also, but that seems like they would be tough to do and probably not wear well. Anyone try this on their ride?

Go to Etsy and search Fox 34 decals. Many options.

[rideit]

LOL, I actually had large Loc-Tite decals on my Klein Adroit. I thought it was really funny. (1993?)

[XXX-er]

Not all green loctites are the same so watch the green Loctite thing

[jono]

Just gonna clean well with iso and goop some of this stuff in where the cups sit and see what happens. Regular grease makes it quiet for half a ride and then it's super loud and annoying.

Sorry for the double reply here, I just remembered something else: are you planning to install the headset and fork to hold the bearings in their nominal position during cure? 609 cures slow enough to do that.

That's how we used this stuff in the airplane parts: tighter tolerance on the shaft than the pockets, so installing everything and setting the shaft (steerer tube) in the bearings and holding it vertical during cure helped ensure the bearings were co-axial. Might help your fix last a little longer--and maybe your bearings, too.

[rideit]

Not all green loctites are the same so watch the green Loctite thing

Reading is fundamental.

[sfotex]

Not all green loctites are the same so watch the green Loctite thing

https://www.aimsindustrial.com.au/bl...ultimate-guide

[jono]

LOL, I actually had large Loc-Tite decals on my Klein Adroit. I thought it was really funny. (1993?)

Probably? I was thinking a bit later than '93, but I might have been remembering the date of the little tech article I ran across while I was looking into the 609, (late 90's--I found it in 03 or 04).

Hinkel certainly seemed to get more out of the publicity than Klein. Kinda like how Gates' "sexyest" belt division is CarbonDrive.

[XXX-er]

well in case someone sez " use the green "

I used a Green to glue my cranks on the advice of a Locomotive mechanic who said they used the stuff to retain wheel bearings on Trains

I have seen recommended but not tryed " green Loctite " to seep into spoke threads

very different apps so ya read the directions

[rideit]

Fair points.

[east or bust]

GFs bike has developed a rough spot in the drivetrain on Saturday.

Was checking it out this afternoon and there’s one link in the chain that is doing some funky shit through the rear derailleur.

Every other link looks like this:


Problem link (marked red) looks like this:


It also looks visibly tweaked..


She didn’t crash at all this weekend, so not really sure what would have caused it.

What’s the best remedy? Just replace a few links and call it good?

[J. Barron DeJong]

GFs bike has developed a rough spot in the drivetrain on Saturday.

Was checking it out this afternoon and there’s one link in the chain that is doing some funky shit through the rear derailleur.

Every other link looks like this:


Problem link (marked red) looks like this:


It also looks visibly tweaked..


She didn’t crash at all this weekend, so not really sure what would have caused it.

What’s the best remedy? Just replace a few links and call it good?

Looks like a stiff link. Try grabbing the chain at that point and flexing it side to side a few times and see if it loosens up.

[rudy]

GFs bike has developed a rough spot in the drivetrain on Saturday.

Was checking it out this afternoon and there’s one link in the chain that is doing some funky shit through the rear derailleur.

Every other link looks like this:


Problem link (marked red) looks like this:


It also looks visibly tweaked..


She didn’t crash at all this weekend, so not really sure what would have caused it.

What’s the best remedy? Just replace a few links and call it good?

Sometimes you're able to bend the chain sideways at the pin that is binding up and it will loosen it up to pivot as it should. worth a shot and free

[east or bust]

Looks like a stiff link. Try grabbing the chain at that point and flexing it side to side a few times and see if it loosens up.

Sometimes you're able to bend the chain sideways at the pin that is binding up and it will loosen it up to pivot as it should. worth a shot and free

Thanks guys, took two tiny screw drivers and lightly torqued a few links in that area. It's running way smoother now with the chain still holding a slight shape on straight sections between the cassette and chainring. It's overdue for lube so I think that'll get me all the way there.

[toast2266]

Thanks guys, took two tiny screw drivers and lightly torqued a few links in that area. It's running way smoother now with the chain still holding a slight shape on straight sections between the cassette and chainring. It's overdue for lube so I think that'll get me all the way there.

It's probably fine, but take a very close look at it to make sure neither of the outer plates are tweaked out from the rivets. Sometimes that can happen from a hard mis-shift, and then produce a stiff link. And then you loosen up the stiff link like you did, but the link is still damaged, and it'll end up breaking soon-ish.

If everything looks normal and it's running smooth, then ignore this.

[grskier]

Also clean/degrease the chain and relube it once you have it not too stiff in the same area.

[summit]

Not sure this is thread worthy so I'll ask here. I live within pedaling distance of a bike park. Barely rode it this season but would like to change that next year. I'm thinking my current bike ('21 Norco Sight) will be fine if I get a set of DH wheels + tires and swap for park riding.

Is this dumb? Will I thrash the Sight? I'm not terribly hard on my gear, but have cracked both carbon bikes I've owned prior (not from shredding too hard, random stuff like rock strikes and chain suck). Guessing maintenance intervals will be shorter, but that's still cheaper than n+1. If DH wheels on the Sight are the way to go, hit me with some recs.

You are talking about a 160/150 frame and what, 29er config? 35mm stanchions?

Yes a heavier wheelset with burlier tires will help, but your base bike is probably not bike park material despite the Code brakes...

EXCEPT

What bikepark? That matters greatly. BIG deal.

Keystone would eat your bike while Trestle would be OK with the alternate wheelset.

But you are in Boulder which makes me think you are talking about Valmont "Bike Park"

Isn't that just all machine built human powered flow?

You do NOT want a DH bike for that. Your bike should be perfect if you are decent at landing where and how you intend.

[grinch]

Anyone have a preferred product for pivot axles and pivot bearings?

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[bagtagley]

Not sure this is thread worthy so I'll ask here. I live within pedaling distance of a bike park. Barely rode it this season but would like to change that next year. I'm thinking my current bike ('21 Norco Sight) will be fine if I get a set of DH wheels + tires and swap for park riding.

Is this dumb? Will I thrash the Sight? I'm not terribly hard on my gear, but have cracked both carbon bikes I've owned prior (not from shredding too hard, random stuff like rock strikes and chain suck). Guessing maintenance intervals will be shorter, but that's still cheaper than n+1. If DH wheels on the Sight are the way to go, hit me with some recs.

Agree with toast that regular bike park use will beat the shit out of it, but definitely run what you brung at first and get a feel for whether or not you need something different and/or burlier.

[North]

You are talking about a 160/150 frame and what, 29er config? 35mm stanchions?

Yes a heavier wheelset with burlier tires will help, but your base bike is probably not bike park material despite the Code brakes...

EXCEPT

What bikepark? That matters greatly. BIG deal.

29er. Lyrik. Bike park is Mt. CB, which in my (limited) experience is not particularly burly outside of 1-2 trails. Certainly not on the level of Angel Fire or some other bike eating parks. Most people I know here just ride their pedal rig, but we're talking 1-2 laps a few days a week.

Agree with toast that regular bike park use will beat the shit out of it, but definitely run what you brung at first and get a feel for whether or not you need something different and/or burlier.

Yeah. This is a situation where I expect I'll learn the hard way. There's just no way I'm getting a DH bike for an unknown amount of use at a park that might not warrant one anyway.

[huckbucket]

Losing my mind. Wheel/tire doesn't hold air.

Stans Grail CB7
Put fresh Stans rimtape
Cleaned off the bed and the valve stem
Put a fresh core in it
Brand new gravelking SK 43

Pumped to 45 and by the next morning it's 20

Just ordered replacement valve stem/cores.
Is there any chance the tire is bad?

[skaredshtles]

I'd bust out the soapy water before anything else.

[joetron]

Losing my mind. Wheel/tire doesn't hold air.

Stans Grail CB7
Put fresh Stans rimtape
Cleaned off the bed and the valve stem
Put a fresh core in it
Brand new gravelking SK 43

Pumped to 45 and by the next morning it's 20

Just ordered replacement valve stem/cores.
Is there any chance the tire is bad?

Get it up to 45 and spray it with soapy water, pretty good chance you’ll see where the bubble are growing.
Was it tight getting on the rim? Did you use a lever to get it on? If so, might have dinged the tape? Those rims are kinda shallow.


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