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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #10476
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    1,124
    Quote Originally Posted by east or bust View Post
    No love for Dumonde Tech ey?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    My usual lube was 50/50 Dumonde blue and yellow. I’ve been a repeat buy of the Wolftooth lube since trying it.

  2. #10477
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
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    10,312
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    pretty much this , I think its^^ a pretty good product and I don't really want to spend a whole bunch of time lubing a chain
    Try Smoove. Similar to Squirt but lasts a good bit longer IME.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  3. #10478
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    33,682
    Squirt is easy to get a hold of, I get 3 rides out of a Squirt app so I'm fine with that ^^ , i have a few bottles of it squirreled away cuz I order squirt to bring up my final total for free shipping on mail orders

    A dumb question I hope but are folks who get the wax product coming off letting the water evaporate over night or at least a few hrs ?

    I found dribblng some squirt on a flat surface at room temp it takes a couple of hrs for the water to evap and then its like scraping off candle drippings,

    I also tried dripping Squirt into a small container to see if I could get it to solidify into a chunk but that doesnt really work
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #10479
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    10,312

    Ask the experts

    Mezzer Pro damper service time. Thought I had 5wt but all I have is Maxima 7wt or an ancient bottle of Spectro Golden 5wt. Gotta get it back together tonight so I’m ignoring any “yer gonna die” responses. I’m leaning 7wt. Been a while since I played with fluid weight to change damping, but I kinda recall 2-3wt changes not making a huge difference.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  5. #10480
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    5,082
    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    Mezzer Pro damper service time. Thought I had 5wt but all I have is Maxima 7wt or an ancient bottle of Spectro Golden 5wt. Gotta get it back together tonight so I’m ignoring any “yer gonna die” responses. I’m leaning 7wt. Been a while since I played with fluid weight to change damping, but I kinda recall 2-3wt changes not making a huge difference.
    Are you worried the "ancient" oil has gone bad over time? Before it was open on your shelf for 10 years, it was in the ground since the Mesozoic age, 65 to 250 millions years ago.

  6. #10481
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    7,672
    Since I decided this is lube chart day, here’s single application longevity.

    Dry road:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Dry off road (dry contamination):

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I guess guys concerned about longevity on their gravel enduros should give Rex Black Diamond + Race Day Spray a try.

  7. #10482
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    10,312

    Ask the experts

    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Are you worried the "ancient" oil has gone bad over time? Before it was open on your shelf for 10 years, it was in the ground since the Mesozoic age, 65 to 250 millions years ago.
    Not really worried that it’s gone bad, more worried that additive technology has changed a lot in 15 years and it may be lacking the vitamins and minerals a growing fork needs.

    Doesn’t matter, I tracked a bottle of Maxima 5wt down. Thanks for the help, though. 🤣
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  8. #10483
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,260
    Do I need to cut the head off and go find a new bolt? B gap on this bike is like 20mm...no wonder it shifts like ass

    Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

  9. #10484
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,801
    Cut the bent side of the bolt off with a dremel or hacksaw as close to the derailleur as you can. Take the derailleur off. Use pliers or whatever on the "hanger" end of the bolt to extract the rest of it.

    Or just try straightening it. If it straightens enough to remove, great. If it snaps, see above.

  10. #10485
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    12,699
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Cut the bent side of the bolt off with a dremel or hacksaw as close to the derailleur as you can. Take the derailleur off. Use pliers or whatever on the "hanger" end of the bolt to extract the rest of it.

    Or just try straightening it. If it straightens enough to remove, great. If it snaps, see above.
    This.

    I'd also tease them that this means new bike day... and they need a really nice new 170mm fork on that new bike... and actually, you have a better one to swap out...
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  11. #10486
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,260
    Haha, swapped out the b screw for a new one. Cut the old off with a fein tool.

    Now can I do anything about this abomination?



    Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

  12. #10487
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,801
    lol.

    Use the same fein tool to cut off the front shifter and front derailleur. Rotate the dropper lever to the correct position.

    Or buy a dropper lever that's compatible with shifters. The vertical kind. They kinda suck, but it's the option.

  13. #10488
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    12,699
    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Haha, swapped out the b screw for a new one. Cut the old off with a fein tool.

    Now can I do anything about this abomination?

    Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk
    They have top levers for 2x still....

    anything else and you're increasing the reach.
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  14. #10489
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,260
    Ok so I'm off the deep end tinkering again.

    Shifting on my bike is hard at the lever. I just put new cable, housing, and chain on. Shimano XT 12spd. I did a climb yesterday and shifting was so nice and at the top I realized the clutch was off the whole time. Sticky clutch?

  15. #10490
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    2,771
    Damnit WRG!! One variable at a time!!

    Edit: That's assuming you did the new cable at the same time as turning the clutch off. Otherwise I'd say that makes sense.

  16. #10491
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    SLCizzy
    Posts
    3,679
    Do you notice it on the stand or out riding?
    Shimano 12sp feels worse on the stand than actually pedaling on the bike. Its designed to shift under load.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  17. #10492
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
    Posts
    17,260
    Out riding it sucks. I did cable and housing first.......wow somehow it got harder to shift. A couple rides later. Figured my chain must be bad. New chain. Shifts great on the bike without clutch. Shifts OK and hard to push the actual shifter with clutch on.

  18. #10493
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Eugenio Oregón
    Posts
    8,849
    Discovered that my Park Tool CC-3.2 gives nowhere near the same reading as the CC-2. CC3.2 is mine, CC-2 belongs to my shop.
    CC-2 measured 0.75% elongation on a chain that my CC-3.2 would not drop into at 0.5%. The chain had 2 years of riding on it anyways so I agreed with the shop’s call to replace with a new one while I had them doing a full preseason tune up. For shits and giggles, I had them check the new one with their CC-2 and it measured at 0.5%.

    The shop tech seemed very uninterested in having a discussion with me about tool variation, whether my tool or their tool was more likely to be out of spec, what difference roller diameter can play when using a tool that measures from inside-to-inside relative to rollers, etc. They took it kind of defensively and I had to reiterate that I had no issue replacing the chain, I just wanted to resolve whether I, the shop, or both of us should be using different chain elongation measurement tools in this day and age and how to know what’s what - because the discrepancy between the two tools had surprised me. I decided to just let things be cool and peace out …

    I’m thinking I should get a CC-4 moving forward as it measures from inside-to-outside so roller diameter should theoretically not play a role in how the tool measures … but that it will still have a discrepancy issue with the CC-2!

    What say the experts?
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  19. #10494
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    SLCizzy
    Posts
    3,679

    Ask the experts

    The cc-2 is worthless. Too easy to tweak out of calibration.
    CC-4 is a good call.
    When service writing, I usually use the Shimano TL-CN42 as a go/no-go and then drop in the Pedro’s Chain Checker 2 Plus (which is basically the same as CC-4) to confirm clapped-ness or check wear.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  20. #10495
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
    4,848
    Quote Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio View Post
    Discovered that my Park Tool CC-3.2 gives nowhere near the same reading as the CC-2. CC3.2 is mine, CC-2 belongs to my shop.
    CC-2 measured 0.75% elongation on a chain that my CC-3.2 would not drop into at 0.5%. The chain had 2 years of riding on it anyways so I agreed with the shop’s call to replace with a new one while I had them doing a full preseason tune up. For shits and giggles, I had them check the new one with their CC-2 and it measured at 0.5%.

    The shop tech seemed very uninterested in having a discussion with me about tool variation, whether my tool or their tool was more likely to be out of spec, what difference roller diameter can play when using a tool that measures from inside-to-inside relative to rollers, etc. They took it kind of defensively and I had to reiterate that I had no issue replacing the chain, I just wanted to resolve whether I, the shop, or both of us should be using different chain elongation measurement tools in this day and age and how to know what’s what - because the discrepancy between the two tools had surprised me. I decided to just let things be cool and peace out …

    I’m thinking I should get a CC-4 moving forward as it measures from inside-to-outside so roller diameter should theoretically not play a role in how the tool measures … but that it will still have a discrepancy issue with the CC-2!

    What say the experts?
    Its over priced but I really like the shimano chain checker. It pushes the rollers to take out the slack. Its a go or no-go tool.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  21. #10496
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    7,672
    Quote Originally Posted by Eluder View Post
    Its over priced but I really like the shimano chain checker. It pushes the rollers to take out the slack. It’s a go or no-go tool.
    The shimano one is what Zero Friction recommends (it’s ZF day for me today). They’re apparently very consistent from one to the next since they’re laser cut, whereas the stamped tools have rough edges that can introduce some significant variation in their readings.

    What he’s actually using for his testing is the KMC digital chain checker. Now that Gunder is back, he can probably tell you how well that one works .

  22. #10497
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Posts
    191
    First frame build and man there are so many details I didn’t know enough to wonder about.

    1. Stem stack height: My understanding of this is that is describes how much space on the steerer tube the stem takes up. If I am replacing a 42 mm stack height zero degree rise stem with a 30 mm stack height zero degree rise stem, will it but the bars in the same place, or 12 mm lower?

    2. Crown race: Our frame is a V3 Hightower with the stock headset left in it. The info I have for it is: Cane Creek 40 integrated headset (IS41/52). We have a lyrik ultimate that is a take-off from a 2022 evil the offering with the Crown race already on it. The headset specs for that bike are: Cane Creek 40 ZS44/28.6/h8ZS62/40.

    Are all Cane creek 40 bottom bearings the same so the crown race should work, or am I going to run into compatibility issues and need to replace it possibly? Do I check this just by seeing if it seems to line up and seal?

    Thank you for the help!

  23. #10498
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    NorCal coast
    Posts
    2,207
    1. it depends. Assuming that both stems have the bar part equally spaced from the top and bottom of the steerer part, I think the bar would be 6mm lower (half the total stack height difference).

    2. you can use the same crown race. Per CC website: ZS62/40 will take a 52mm bearing, IS52/40 will take a 52mm bearing, so same crown race. You can use 110 crown races with 40 headsets and vice versa.

  24. #10499
    Join Date
    Jul 2021
    Posts
    191
    Perfect! Appreciate the help.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    1. it depends. Assuming that both stems have the bar part equally spaced from the top and bottom of the steerer part, I think the bar would be 6mm lower (half the total stack height difference).

    2. you can use the same crown race. Per CC website: ZS62/40 will take a 52mm bearing, IS52/40 will take a 52mm bearing, so same crown race. You can use 110 crown races with 40 headsets and vice versa.

  25. #10500
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Mexico 2.0
    Posts
    837
    Any recommendations for threaded bottom brackets that fit a 30mm spindle, won't turn to notchy crap in a few months, and are reasonably inexpensive? Or should I just try harder to find Shimano cranks I like so I can keep using $25 BBs?
    kittyhump.com - Fund Max, Cat Appreciation, Bike

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