I've been a DD fanboi and they are usually pretty good at holding air but I always put in a few ounces of Stan's fluid so you can see the pinholes right away so did you use any ??
I've been a DD fanboi and they are usually pretty good at holding air but I always put in a few ounces of Stan's fluid so you can see the pinholes right away so did you use any ??
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
I had the same issue and didn’t want to replace the whole brake set. I went with [emoji638][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]] front hs[emoji638] rotors and gold mtx pads rear, red mtx pads front. I got along with them great after those changes.Originally Posted by grskier;[emoji[emoji6[emoji640
Sent from my iPhone using [emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji640][emoji638][emoji638][emoji638]]TGR Forums
Fuckin emojis. Read, bigger rotors.
Rival ASX, left crank arm power meter. Seems like a great deal for $300 or so. Any known problems? Yes, I'm aware of it being 1 side measuring.
Good and reliable. They don’t need to be calibrated/zero set very often. You can set it and forget it
Battery life can seem short, but it’s an easy AAA swap out. Just use a good Li-ion battery.
My personal bikes are all Shimano so I have Stages, 4iii and even a lousy Shimano built in PM. But a bunch of my clients use the SRAM single sided crank/spindle option. No issues with any of them. No chain stay clearance issues with the electronics inside the spindle. AXS app is easy to see battery level and to zero offset, they connect/integrate with Garmin or Wahoo head units easily.
Would buy.
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