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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #12751
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    Feb 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    A Runt.
    I have looked into those but ideal setup would be only airing the tires.

  2. #12752
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    Feb 2014
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    Anyone know of a tailgate pad that fits a full size truck with a thick tailgate that *doesn't* require you to feed the fucking straps from the outside in? That's the stupidest design decision I've seen in a long time. When the gate is down on my truck, there's about a 1/2" gap between it and the bed (can't fit my fingers down it) and the gate is too tall for me to reach under with one hand and feed straps up while grabbing over with the other hand. I know the Fox/Race Face, Evoc, and Dakine all have this flaw.

  3. #12753
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    Anyone know of a tailgate pad that fits a full size truck with a thick tailgate that *doesn't* require you to feed the fucking straps from the outside in? That's the stupidest design decision I've seen in a long time. When the gate is down on my truck, there's about a 1/2" gap between it and the bed (can't fit my fingers down it) and the gate is too tall for me to reach under with one hand and feed straps up while grabbing over with the other hand. I know the Fox/Race Face, Evoc, and Dakine all have this flaw.
    the straps are generally stout enough to slide through without too much fishing, especially if you lift the gate up a few degrees
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  4. #12754
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    Anyone know of a tailgate pad that fits a full size truck with a thick tailgate that *doesn't* require you to feed the fucking straps from the outside in? That's the stupidest design decision I've seen in a long time. When the gate is down on my truck, there's about a 1/2" gap between it and the bed (can't fit my fingers down it) and the gate is too tall for me to reach under with one hand and feed straps up while grabbing over with the other hand. I know the Fox/Race Face, Evoc, and Dakine all have this flaw.
    Check out the SendIt pad - they launched a few months ago. Definitely a bit pricey, but they're also WAY nicer than any pad I've used in the past. And their straps feed from the inside.

    Full disclosure, I've recently "partnered" with them since they're located 10 minutes away and we have mutual friends (they gave me a new pad, and I'm doing some co-marketing with them through Chasing Epic but don't make commissions or anything like that), but it really is the nicest pad I've used so far. Lots of extra padding and some cool features that aren't seen on other pads. I've got a 15% discount code coming soon that I can send to anyone interested.

  5. #12755
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    Cut the straps off and re-sew them on the other way?

    It's not like the stitches need to be crazy strong. Just strong enough to hold the pad in place.

  6. #12756
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    How much of a worthwhile upgrade would these wheels be?

    $375 for a DT Swiss XM1700 wheelset, with the superboost hub that my bike uses:
    https://www.coloradocyclist.com/dt-s...hoCLeQQAvD_BwE

    Current wheelset is in fine shape - it's the OEM wheelset, Shimano SLX hubs, centerlock discs, DT E532 rims. It's microspline, so if I stay with Shimano cassette I'd need to pick up a DT driver for the other wheels.

    I haven't had any problems with the Shimano freehub, though have read plenty of complaints - do I have a ticking time bomb of a rear hub and I should buy that DT wheelset? Or are the Shimano complaints overblown and what I have is just fine?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  7. #12757
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    How much of a worthwhile upgrade would these wheels be?

    $375 for a DT Swiss XM1700 wheelset, with the superboost hub that my bike uses:
    https://www.coloradocyclist.com/dt-s...hoCLeQQAvD_BwE

    Current wheelset is in fine shape - it's the OEM wheelset, Shimano SLX hubs, centerlock discs, DT E532 rims. It's microspline, so if I stay with Shimano cassette I'd need to pick up a DT driver for the other wheels.

    I haven't had any problems with the Shimano freehub, though have read plenty of complaints - do I have a ticking time bomb of a rear hub and I should buy that DT wheelset? Or are the Shimano complaints overblown and what I have is just fine?
    That is a great price for a really good wheel set.
    It's one of the better Aluminum sets available in my opinion. They typically "wholesale" for $415 rear and $285 front.
    It's a quality build with the hub being a new style DT350 hub with a 36t ratchet. (same as 240 of 3 years ago). The rim is XM481 rebranded as a 1700 wheel system. DT competition spokes, DT squorx nipples, DT tape.
    This is my go to quality Alu wheelset when somebody has $1000 to upgrade.

  8. #12758
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    Thanks Dee - I'm pretty tempted. I figure I could sell my old wheelset to make it a cheap-ish upgrade.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  9. #12759
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    One last thought on pad straps....

    If they are fed from the inside of the bed, the extra strap and buckle mechanism will then also be on the outside of the bed, which puts it into even more of a flapping around in the wind profile.....
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  10. #12760
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    Quote Originally Posted by smmokan View Post
    Check out the SendIt pad - they launched a few months ago. Definitely a bit pricey, but they're also WAY nicer than any pad I've used in the past. And their straps feed from the inside.

    Full disclosure, I've recently "partnered" with them since they're located 10 minutes away and we have mutual friends (they gave me a new pad, and I'm doing some co-marketing with them through Chasing Epic but don't make commissions or anything like that), but it really is the nicest pad I've used so far. Lots of extra padding and some cool features that aren't seen on other pads. I've got a 15% discount code coming soon that I can send to anyone interested.
    That looks perfect. I'd love to get one of those codes when you get them.

    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    One last thought on pad straps....

    If they are fed from the inside of the bed, the extra strap and buckle mechanism will then also be on the outside of the bed, which puts it into even more of a flapping around in the wind profile.....
    I'm driving a freaking full size truck. Even if I didn't tie off the loose straps, any drag caused by that is trivial in comparison to the truck, the open bed, or the 3-5 bikes hanging off the back.

  11. #12761
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    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    One last thought on pad straps....
    If they are fed from the inside of the bed, the extra strap and buckle mechanism will then also be on the outside of the bed, which puts it into even more of a flapping around in the wind profile.....
    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    I'm driving a freaking full size truck. Even if I didn't tie off the loose straps, any drag caused by that is trivial in comparison to the truck, the open bed, or the 3-5 bikes hanging off the back.
    I don't think aerodynamic drag was the concern he was posting about. Just the idea of four loose 12" or so straps flapping in the breeze and slapping the tailgate paint and bike forks.

    Personally, I've never felt strapping the pad in to be that big of an issue:
    1) A primary advantage of a TG pad is that you rarely have to remove it.
    2) As stated above, most pads I've dealt with have things to stiffen the strap, making it easy to slide in place. Just tilt the gate back a few degrees.
    Last edited by Roxtar; 01-03-2024 at 03:14 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  12. #12762
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    Yeah, not too worried about the drag, just stuff flapping around and buckles on that side of the equation to beat on the tailgate paint.

    eta that any road grime etc would likely accumulate there more as well.
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  13. #12763
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    One last thought on pad straps....

    If they are fed from the inside of the bed, the extra strap and buckle mechanism will then also be on the outside of the bed, which puts it into even more of a flapping around in the wind profile.....
    I didnt find a tailgate pad enough of a problem to remember how to instal one, i paid 25$ for a used one

    Are they still a thing ? shop bro told me he still had a 2 yr supply of tailgate pads kicking around, somewhere in my travels I seen a cardboard fridge crate draped over a tailgate with " Dakine " written on it in black sharpie

    so its almost like you can use anything and BTW if you put a rip/ hole in your tailgate pad the fix is wait for it ...




    Aqua seal
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  14. #12764
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    Planet Cyclery (same place as Colorado Cyclist now, it seems) has the same wheelset, same price.... and 8% Active Junky CB.
    https://planetcyclery.com/dt-swiss-x...ne-29-wheelset
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  15. #12765
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    Tieing off the strap ends is a lot easier than trying to fish the damn straps up from below through the gap. I don't leave it on all the time. Usually when I'm installing it, it's at 6:30am in the dark before I go pick people up.

    The SendIt one Smokan refers to is even better - you drop a loop down from above, hook it onto a G-hook, then tighten it up on the inside. Plus has reinforced security holes for a cable lock so the doesn't walk away in the parking lot.

  16. #12766
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    That Send it does look very nice. Never had a problem with fishing up the straps, but I keep mine on almost the whole summer.
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  17. #12767
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    Anyone had any time on the new Yeti SB140?? I’m intrigued by it but doesn’t seem to be many out in the wild yet


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  18. #12768
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandbox View Post
    Anyone had any time on the new Yeti SB140?? I’m intrigued by it but doesn’t seem to be many out in the wild yet


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    A bud just had one delivered to him. No time on it yet.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  19. #12769
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Under the bridge, down by the river
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    Question for the experts. I’m 6’3 and riding an S6 stumpy evo. Love the bike but my riding spot closest to home is super slow tech and I’m bashing my 170mm cranks all over the place, even with running a bit more psi in the shock and suspension in high setting. So I’m increasingly short crank curious. Do I just bump to 165? Go to 160? Feels weird, esp since running 180s on my old SS. Also mindful that if my crank is shorter I’ll have to run my seat a bit higher—and I’m already running my post quite high as is.

  20. #12770
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    Hmmmm…. Maybe add a Cascade link for more mid-stroke support so you sit a bit higher on the bike when you’re pedaling? Plus IMO, it makes the Stumpy EVO feel way better overall.

  21. #12771
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    You can also run a 170mm fork. I did that on my Levo when I felt like the BB was too low even with a Cascade link and the high flip chip setting. Much better now IMO. Especially since with these bikes having a built in angleset cup so you can offset some of the head angle change (+10mm fork with neutral cup is similar to running the slack cup).

  22. #12772
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    If you steepen the head angle and shorten the wheelbase you will also improve breakover clearance and I think the stumpy can do that. I feel your pain on the long low bike pedal strikes but it feels so good one you can open it up that I just deal and try to ratchet. High hub engagement could help with that strategy too.

  23. #12773
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    May 2012
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    People's Republic of OB
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    I wouldn't hesitate to try 160 or even 155 cranks. I put 160 on my Rail and after a few mins can't feel a difference from 170. But does have fewer pedal strikes for sure. Canfield had their cranks on sale recently. Maybe still are? Maybe being tall, going too short wont work as well for you.
    You should be able to sell them if you don't like them.

  24. #12774
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    Anyone know the odds of getting into Leadville through the lottery?

    Ive tried 4-5x previously and never gotten in. Im in again this year…

  25. #12775
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    In case anyone cares, that DT Swiss superboost wheelset is now even cheaper - $349 today at Planet Cyclery, on a flash sale.

    I emailed them to ask for a price adjustment, since it's now $25 less than when I bought it - and my wheelset hasn't even arrived yet, so hoping they'll send me back $25.

    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

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