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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #11851
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Anyone ever use Loctite 609 retaining compound? I want to try to quiet some headset reach adjust cups that creak in the frame. Head set is carbon and cups are annodized alu. Will the stuff even cure? Does it matter? I'm just trying to achieve a fit that is a little more robust/thicker than using a thick grease.
    Have you tried bacon grease?
    www.dpsskis.com
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    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  2. #11852
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    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    Have you tried bacon grease?
    I rendered down the hooves of about a dozen caribou. Not the exact texture I was going for.

  3. #11853
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    I've used sleeve retainer loctite, that stuff was like epoxying junior's creaking square tapers to the BB spindle which absolutely cured the creaking which is a moot point becuz shortly after he snapped the spindle

    how bout wrapping it with plumber's tape ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #11854
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Anyone ever use Loctite 609 retaining compound? I want to try to quiet some headset reach adjust cups that creak in the frame. Head set is carbon and cups are annodized alu. Will the stuff even cure? Does it matter? I'm just trying to achieve a fit that is a little more robust/thicker than using a thick grease.
    Haven’t used it, but Park Tool has retaining compound RC-1 which they say compares with Loctite 680. And they say that if installing in a carbon frame, then you have to use their AP-1 adhesive primer, which compared with Loctite 7649.

    So I’d be inclined to try one of those.

  5. #11855
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Anyone ever use Loctite 609 retaining compound? I want to try to quiet some headset reach adjust cups that creak in the frame. Head set is carbon and cups are annodized alu. Will the stuff even cure? Does it matter? I'm just trying to achieve a fit that is a little more robust/thicker than using a thick grease.
    FYI, I think most of those retaining compounds require activator, especially on non-metal surfaces. Also, I think some of them aren't real friendly to carbon fiber - might be worth looking into. There's a whole bunch of 600 series loctite compounds, all with slightly different recommended uses.

    No idea how they'd work on the headtube cups. Most of the uses I've seen are for retaining press fit bearings, but iirc, the GG headset cups have more of a beveled surface?

  6. #11856
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Anyone ever use Loctite 609 retaining compound? I want to try to quiet some headset reach adjust cups that creak in the frame. Head set is carbon and cups are annodized alu. Will the stuff even cure? Does it matter? I'm just trying to achieve a fit that is a little more robust/thicker than using a thick grease.
    I've got 2 different Loctite retaining compounds, I forget the exact numbers. One is described as medium strength, the other high strength. Keys for making them work:
    * clean contact surfaces really well with isopropyl alcohol first
    * apply Loctite primer to both contact surfaces
    * apply the retaining compound and immediately install. With the primer, this stuff sets up REALLY quick.

    The stuff isn't going to 100% fix creaks due to migrating bearings (I have this issue with the seatstay on my Levo) but it does make a massive difference. Without it, I could basically cause the bearing to shift on demand, now it takes a couple months of repeated abuse. To reapply, just disassemble, scrape the hardened RC off with your fingernail or a plastic pick, then repeat the process.

  7. #11857
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    I've got 2 different Loctite retaining compounds, I forget the exact numbers. One is described as medium strength, the other high strength. Keys for making them work:
    * clean contact surfaces really well with isopropyl alcohol first
    * apply Loctite primer to both contact surfaces
    * apply the retaining compound and immediately install. With the primer, this stuff sets up REALLY quick.

    The stuff isn't going to 100% fix creaks due to migrating bearings (I have this issue with the seatstay on my Levo) but it does make a massive difference. Without it, I could basically cause the bearing to shift on demand, now it takes a couple months of repeated abuse. To reapply, just disassemble, scrape the hardened RC off with your fingernail or a plastic pick, then repeat the process.
    Ok. This 609 cures on it's own or you can use the activator for a super fast cure like you said. Can't find any of this stuff locally so had to order online. I don't want to wait another week for activator. Just gonna clean well with iso and goop some of this stuff in where the cups sit and see what happens. Regular grease makes it quiet for half a ride and then it's super loud and annoying.

  8. #11858
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    Ok I missed that you are dealing with CF but IME I need to use carbon assembly paste or aluminium seatubes in a carbon frame will creak, so far its not bee a problem with headsets except for needing to clean/ grease once a year or so

    don't know what to suggest
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  9. #11859
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    Bling the wife's new ride:

    Def not own thread worthy, but I'm trying to bling out Mrs Duffs soon to arrive new Ripley AF in pink . She thought the White (protein shake ) color is pretty bland, so trying to pink it up as much as reasonable .

    So far: have a Spank Split pink stem and RF Chesters and pink grips coming. Any good options for pink stem spacers or topcaps that match the Spank?

    Does anyone know where to find a side loading bottle cage in pink? No luck so far

    Also want to grab new matched Fox 34 fork sticker . Slick vs Stikred vs others? I looked at the full Ibis frame logos and such also, but that seems like they would be tough to do and probably not wear well. Anyone try this on their ride?

  10. #11860
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman View Post


    Does anyone know where to find a side loading bottle cage in pink? No luck so far
    https://www.amazon.com/corki-Bottle-...085ZFL1YB?th=1
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  11. #11861
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    What's the best chinesium light setup going now? I'm just looking for something to extend the after work rides going into fall. I'm not going to use it for deep sea cave enduro riding for days at a time, so it doesn't need to be bulletproof.
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  12. #11862
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    https://www.rei.com/product/230431/j...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Brake hoses and cable housing in pink would actually look good… if you’re into that sort of thing


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  13. #11863
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    Nice find. Ordered! Even came in a set of 2 for when this finest chinesium product inevitably breaks.

  14. #11864
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    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    https://www.rei.com/product/230431/j...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Brake hoses and cable housing in pink would actually look good… if you’re into that sort of thing


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    That would be cool but I'm way to lazy to reblled brakes and rerun internally routed housing until they actually need maintenance

  15. #11865
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman View Post
    That would be cool but I'm way to lazy to reblled brakes and rerun internally routed housing until they actually need maintenance
    And I thought this was a display of love and gratitude.

    Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
    No matter where you go, there you are. - BB

  16. #11866
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinipenem View Post
    And I thought this was a display of love and gratitude.

    Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
    Hahaha. Just like the $7k e bike you suggested, there are definite limits to my gratitude . Unnecessarily changing internal routed housing and brake hoses may have reached that limit

    Although it does look pretty bad ass. Could only find brake cables in pink though, not the shift housing and hydraulic lines

  17. #11867
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman View Post
    Hahaha. Just like the $7k e bike you suggested, there are definite limits to my gratitude . Unnecessarily changing internal routed housing and brake hoses may have reached that limit

    Although it does look pretty bad ass. Could only find brake cables in pink though, not the shift housing and hydraulic lines
    I think the ebike was 8k. Just kidding

    Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
    No matter where you go, there you are. - BB

  18. #11868
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman View Post
    Hahaha. Just like the $7k e bike you suggested, there are definite limits to my gratitude . Unnecessarily changing internal routed housing and brake hoses may have reached that limit

    Although it does look pretty bad ass. Could only find brake cables in pink though, not the shift housing and hydraulic lines
    Feel relieved you’ve gotten past your analysis/paralysis mode I hope

    Definitely a good choice for local trails and most trails within an hour or so of you.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  19. #11869
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Feel relieved you’ve gotten past your analysis/paralysis mode I hope

    Definitely a good choice for local trails and most trails within an hour or so of you.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yep, ultimately I love mine around here, so when they went on sale seemed like a fairly foolproof way to go. Thanks for the help!

  20. #11870
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffman View Post
    Bling the wife's new ride:

    Def not own thread worthy, but I'm trying to bling out Mrs Duffs soon to arrive new Ripley AF in pink . She thought the White (protein shake ) color is pretty bland, so trying to pink it up as much as reasonable .

    So far: have a Spank Split pink stem and RF Chesters and pink grips coming. Any good options for pink stem spacers or topcaps that match the Spank?

    Does anyone know where to find a side loading bottle cage in pink? No luck so far

    Also want to grab new matched Fox 34 fork sticker . Slick vs Stikred vs others? I looked at the full Ibis frame logos and such also, but that seems like they would be tough to do and probably not wear well. Anyone try this on their ride?
    Pink Wolf Tooth remote? It's the light action, which is sweet for girly thumbs (love mine). Pink was a limited edition color and WT is sold out. https://www.amazon.com/Wolf-Tooth-Re.../dp/B0B1SDHS46

    WT has pink bottle cage bolts: https://www.amazon.com/Wolf-Tooth-Re.../dp/B0B1SDHS46

  21. #11871
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Ok. This 609 cures on it's own or you can use the activator for a super fast cure like you said. Can't find any of this stuff locally so had to order online. I don't want to wait another week for activator. Just gonna clean well with iso and goop some of this stuff in where the cups sit and see what happens. Regular grease makes it quiet for half a ride and then it's super loud and annoying.
    I used to use 609 to secure cartridge bearings (stainless IMS) in machined aluminum pockets for an Airbus. Never used it with carbon, but it's really low viscosity and doesn't form a crazy strong bond, so unless there's a chemical incompatibility it's probably pretty forgiving--on aluminum you can just peal it off/out to remove it. Should take a little more force to get things apart, but only a little.

    You won't need to use much, because the stuff flows into every little gap with just a thin coat. The only problem I ever had was occasionally not curing, which I always attributed to greasy bearings not being clean enough (harder to get that right with sealed bearings since you don't want to get alcohol past the seals). Rubbing alcohol was usually enough if cleaned thoroughly, though. Just make sure the last wipe off is a clean towel and it has a chance to sit perfectly still long enough to cure. If the bearings are co-axial you should be good to go.

    Unless they've changed it, I believe 609 was the original green stuff they developed with Klein for bottom bracket bearings.

  22. #11872
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    Is this the green stuff?

    I used that on a bearing pocket that was put off spec on an old bike. The bearing would slide freely laterally, the green stuff worked like a charm.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air

  23. #11873
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    609 is green. I've used it to bed metal on metal voids before.
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  24. #11874
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    FYI, both 609 and 680 are green.

    680 is higher viscosity, meant to fill larger gaps - 0.005” vs. 0.015” for 609 and 680. 680 is also higher strength 4000 vs 3000 shear strength.

  25. #11875
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    Gotcha. Can’t recall wick one I used but yeah, it worked great.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air

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