Ask the experts

[Roxtar]

Because dramatically decreasing the air volume in a tire makes it ride weird. Yes, it protects the rim, but it makes the tire less able to grip and conform to the ground.

It's like taking your air shock and cramming it full of volume reducers. Sure, it doesn't bottom out anymore. But it rides like shit.

Yeah, I've never gotten the whole "using inserts to change ride characteristics" thing. One big advantage of large volume tires is the large volume of air inside.
I use a Huck Norris in the rear as a rim protector, which is what inserts were designed to be. The HN does exactly what it's supposed to do and nothing more. It's light and completely unobtrusive.

[XXX-er]

ech ask - put the new specialized specific headset from WT into the status 160. Using one of the flimsyspacer, they’re is about a 1-2 mm gap on the head tube so it’s not binding up there in any way - but- it seems that when it’s tight enough to take all the play out of the headset (rocking test) then the bars spin back to center very slowly if at all, and if headset pressure is set such that bars spin with necessary freedom, the headset is loose or just barely tight enough. It’s also seems like top cap is backing out more than I’d like, the whole system needing frequent retightenings. Sense something’s afoot.

are you sure there were not some parts left out or something in upside down like the split ring that jams in between the top bearing race and the steerer tube which someone did here on NSMB ?

[skinipenem]

Yeah, I've never gotten the whole "using inserts to change ride characteristics" thing. One big advantage of large volume tires is the large volume of air inside.
I use a Huck Norris in the rear as a rim protector, which is what inserts were designed to be. The HN does exactly what it's supposed to do and nothing more. It's light and completely unobtrusive.

I don't have a ton of experience with inserts. I rode my decoy stock without inserts a couple times then installed cushcore front and rear. I think... and this is a big maybe since I didn't a-b-a and instead a-b 'tested'.... that the bike accelerated slower, had a more damp planted feel with less deflection from hits, yet still gripped great in turns. That being said, in my experience the Decoy has a ton of traction in turns and drifts predictably.

I don't run super low pressures just because I have the inserts in; simply not my goal. About 25 front and 28 rear. Lower pressures feel too imprecise. I ping the rims with the same pressures on my new dh bike with dh cased tires and no inserts (haven't installed them yet as I'm likely selling the bike. ) I can't comment on cornering traction as I'm not dialed on the dh bike at all yet.

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk

[sfotex]

Alright… controversial point here but I don’t actually think the used bike market is all that much worse than it’s been in historic years. It’s nothing like it was in 2021 which is what I think is throwing people.

When I worked at shops, I’d buy a bike in the winter/spring and sell it early fall. I’d assume if I did well, I’d sell it for 40% off msrp if I sold it in late August. 50% if I held it a bit longer.

Things changed quickly but often 3-4 year old bikes depreciated a lot because designs were updated and standards changed. If you were selling a 2014 Santa Cruz in 2018… it would be a 2x drive train, non boost, old geo etc and you’d get $2000 for your previously $6000 bike. So let’s call that 65-70% depreciation. Standards are changing less these days but I think depreciation is holding steady with this.

Point being - new bikes from this spring during pre-Covid markets might be worth 50% of what you paid for them.

Bikes from 2020 should be roughly 65% of their previous value. So for example an $8000 bike from 2020 might be worth around $3000.

Did everyone just forget that bikes depreciate?

Prices are still all over the place. For every good deal I see there's 4x 'Bought this for <MSRP> last spring, didn't ride it much, asking <15% off MSRP> .
Seems like people can't give 27.5 bikes away. Definitely a buyers market.

Speaking of which, I'm looking at a 2018 Yeti SB5c tonight for $1500. Worth it? Looking for a trail bike to mess around on. I have plenty of XC bikes if I need to go fast. And I know 27.5 explodes when you crash, and is worst to be seen on then a moped with a fat chick on the back. Seems like the Infinity linkage is the thing to inspect on there?

[toast2266]

I think used bike prices are still weird just because the market hasn't been stable for the better part of a decade, and the market hasn't really arrived on a pricing scheme for used bikes.

From ~2014 through 2019ish, used bike prices were kinda all over the map because bikes were changing so quickly. There were plenty of times where the hot shit one year was outdated 16 months later, and that made pricing extremely variable.

And then covid hit and prices all went through the roof. But that blip was fairly short lived.

Now bike design has more or less settled out, and the covid surge has passed. But we haven't existed in this new normal for long enough for a general consensus to have been built on used bike pricing. It'll get there though. I bet things will be settled by next spring.

[XXX-er]

in 21 there were just no bikes so I sold my 2018 yeti 5.5 for a very good price to an MD cuz it didnt matter how much money she made there were no yeti's to buy and she really wanted one

so in 2021 I got 3800 for a 2018 bike that cost 5400can new

[TCNROMPER]

Prices are still all over the place. For every good deal I see there's 4x 'Bought this for <MSRP> last spring, didn't ride it much, asking <15% off MSRP> .
Seems like people can't give 27.5 bikes away. Definitely a buyers market.

Speaking of which, I'm looking at a 2018 Yeti SB5c tonight for $1500. Worth it? Looking for a trail bike to mess around on. I have plenty of XC bikes if I need to go fast. And I know 27.5 explodes when you crash, and is worst to be seen on then a moped with a fat chick on the back. Seems like the Infinity linkage is the thing to inspect on there?

I have a yeti SB5c that I bought in 2016 and still own. For all the hate that yeti gets, I love that bike and think it still is a very good bike even by todays standards. With that said, I have completely upgraded it over the last couple years (Fox 36 160, converted to 1X12, added a DPX2, 4 pot brakes). In its OG form 1X11, with fox 34, dps, it is still a good bike but may feel a little dated relative to the current generation of bikes. If you are use to XC bikes you will likely appreciate the weight and the increased capability with longer suspension. I have not had any issues with needing to warranty anything on that bike and have had no issues with the switch infinity link. I would look at it to make sure it isn't totally worked but I would say the biggest thing, which may be hard to inspect are the switch infinity bearings. While the linkage bearings have been awesome and without issue, I have had the switch infinity bearings seize up. With that said the rebuild kit for the switch infinity bearings is $20 from yeti and are fairly easy to replace if you are reasonably skilled. Feel free to message me if you have any specific questions regarding maintenance etc.

[Dantheman]

Speaking of which, I'm looking at a 2018 Yeti SB5c tonight for $1500. Worth it?

Depends on parts spec and condition.

[Falcon3]

My only ?/ thoughts on mullets is - I’m curious for those who have rode many from different brands who is doing the best in terms of other geometry: head tube height, reach, bb height whatever - to come out with the most balanced mullet, riding my status 160 for a while, it’s not unbalanced per say as much as it is very clear (vs wheels of same size) when you’re not over the top or not applying enough front pressure, especially noticeable.

I’d say judging mullets by how a Status 160 rides is like judging all 100-waist skis because of how a floppy park ski rides.

The Status has silly numbers. 426 chainstay and 480 reach on a large! It’s unbalanced in the extreme. A mullet with a more balanced geo (longer chainstays mostly) will feel completely different. If you look at newer mullets like the Patrol, HD6, and Bronson, you’ll see longer chainstays and slightly shorter reaches, which moves your center of gravity forward and makes it considerably easier to get a decent weight balance fore/aft on your tires.

[sfotex]

Depends on parts spec and condition.

Thanks for the info TCNROMPER!

Pike fork/Eagle 12sp and some XT/Looks super clean and dusty in the photos.

Its Turq colored and has a factory shock in the rear, I'm hopeful people will mistake me for a dentist when I almost mow their dog down in Mill Creek on no-bike days.

[Roxtar]

I'm kinda curious about what's going to happen from here out. I generally replace bikes every 3 years but I'm thinking maybe not this time.
Two reasons:

1) I really, really love my new Offering. It is everything I could ask for in the Goldilocks segment. The fit is dead-on and it's amazing for everything from long pedally XC-ish rides to chunky enduro races. Pretty sure super-boost is the end of the spacing wars and UDH is here to stay. I think I'm good.
If you've found that one bike that just plain works for you, you know what I mean.

but mostly because...

2) I seriously don't think there is any real improvements in bike design ahead of us. Suspension design (frame-wise, not component-wise) and geometry have been so gone through and, dare I say, perfected(?) to the point where I don't know where it can go from here. I've watched bike design for over 30 years and honestly feel we've finally nailed it. Perhaps some amazing material breakthrough might change things but other than that...

I'm sure suspension and drivetrain components will continue to improve but those will most likely always be bolt on.

[dcpnz]

Point being - new bikes from this spring during pre-Covid markets might be worth 50% of what you paid for them.

Bikes from 2020 should be roughly 65% of their previous value.

Did everyone just forget that bikes depreciate?

You ought to have a chat with all the folks trying to flip their bikes on pinkbike or Facebook.
Sellers think their sh1t don’t stink and so many are asking essentially same as new on sale for their 2/3 yr rides.

[toast2266]

Pretty sure super-boost is the end of the spacing wars

Mmmmhmmm.

The standard that was created so front derailleurs could fit around plus tires is the wave of the future.

[skinipenem]

I'm kinda curious about what's going to happen from here out. I generally replace bikes every 3 years but I'm thinking maybe not this time.
Two reasons:

1) I really, really love my new Offering. It is everything I could ask for in the Goldilocks segment. The fit is dead-on and it's amazing for everything from long pedally XC-ish rides to chunky enduro races. Pretty sure super-boost is the end of the spacing wars and UDH is here to stay. I think I'm good.
If you've found that one bike that just plain works for you, you know what I mean.

but mostly because...

2) I seriously don't think there is any real improvements in bike design ahead of us. Suspension design (frame-wise, not component-wise) and geometry have been so gone through and, dare I say, perfected(?) to the point where I don't know where it can go from here. I've watched bike design for over 30 years and honestly feel we've finally nailed it. Perhaps some amazing material breakthrough might change things but other than that...

I'm sure suspension and drivetrain components will continue to improve but those will most likely always be bolt on.

Idlers will change the world. I saw it on the pinkbike YouTube channel.

Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk

[rideit]

I heard a rumor that the new Rocky Altitude *might* be H.P. But I think that would be odd if it still shared a platform with the Instinct. Will definitely need to properly demo one next year if that's the case.

[Wes Mantooth]

What’s the general expected lifespan of an eagle cassette and is there a way to unofficially officially confirm it’s toast? I’ve never had one long enough to wear it out, until maybe now. Recently put a new chain on and it’s skipping under load mainly at initial engagement when riding downhill and trying to accelerate. Shifts fine still and no issues climbing.

It’s a GX cassette that I’ve had for 3.5 years and I ride 4-6 days a week during riding season. Been through at least 4 chains and I always change them at 0.5. Seems reasonable that it’d be at the end of its life based on usage but it’s a chunk of change to get a new one so I wanna be somewhat sure

[toast2266]

What’s the general expected lifespan of an eagle cassette and is there a way to unofficially officially confirm it’s toast? I’ve never had one long enough to wear it out, until maybe now. Recently put a new chain on and it’s skipping under load mainly at initial engagement when riding downhill and trying to accelerate. Shifts fine still and no issues climbing.

It’s a GX cassette that I’ve had for 3.5 years and I ride 4-6 days a week during riding season. Been through at least 4 chains and I always change them at 0.5. Seems reasonable that it’d be at the end of its life based on usage but it’s a chunk of change to get a new one so I wanna be somewhat sure

If you've been through at least 4 chains, then you probably have 4-5k miles on that cassette, maybe more. Seems very likely that it's done.

[Andeh]

I got 2,000-2,500 miles out of Eagle cassettes as long as I used good (X01 / XX1) chains. At that point lots of the teeth are shark finned and the ramps are pretty smoothed out.

I'd say you're due for a new one, especially if you just put a fresh chain on. You should be able to find some cheap GX takeoffs on PB.

[skaredshtles]

If you've been through at least 4 chains, then you probably have 4-5k miles on that cassette, maybe more. Seems very likely that it's done.

I'm in agreeance with this.

Have you considered throwing the old chain back on and riding it until it dies? Then swap chain, cassette, and chainring all at the same time and save yourself some grief.

[grskier]

I'm in agreeance with this.

Have you considered throwing the old chain back on and riding it until it dies? Then swap chain, cassette, and chainring all at the same time and save yourself some grief.

This is what I'd try too, but with how much you ride you still may be swapping everything out by desert riding season 2.0

[skaredshtles]

This is what I'd try too, but with how much you ride you still may be swapping everything out by desert riding season 2.0

I'm on this train presently, but don't ride nearly as much as Wes, so by the time all my shit wears out, I'll probably be old enough to be considering swapping my 32t chainring with a 30 or maybe even a 28.

[XXX-er]

I would want to ask does it skip in all gears or just the gears you are in most often??

I've got 3500 kms on an e-bike running NX, I'm on my second chain ( X01) and its still running fine but I already sourced all the replacement parts and with the upgraded X01 chain it was < 300 $

[Wes Mantooth]

I would want to ask does it skip in all gears or just the gears you are in most often??

I only noticed it when descending, so smaller cogs under quick and relatively heavy load but it was pretty consistent in those scenarios. Didn't have any issues climbing or shifting

But yeah I would guess I have around 3500 miles on this cassette. I use GX chains so they wear a bit quicker but I think I ride around 1000 miles/year based on a quick look at garmin stats

Are X01 cassettes more durable than GX or is it just a weight thing? I'm gonna switch to X01 chains since i know those last longer but I had a stack of GX chains I got super cheap so I've been working my way through those

[XXX-er]

Duno, the bike bike came with all NX which is I think all still ok, that NX chain was still good but i changed to X01

I'm not sure if I should just run out this second X01 with the original sprockets until its all scrap metal or thro another chain at the bike or even put the old NX chain back on, cuz X01 chains are 93$ but NX clusters are 156$

[toast2266]

Are X01 cassettes more durable than GX or is it just a weight thing? I'm gonna switch to X01 chains since i know those last longer but I had a stack of GX chains I got super cheap so I've been working my way through those

I think the X01 cassettes are a bit more durable. The majority of the X01 is machined out of a single chunk of steel, whereas the GX cassettes are machined and stamped steel that are pinned together.

You also save the better part of 100 grams with the X01, which is a lot considering it's unsprung weight.